Contents

Introduction 9

SFG, New and Improved 27

Plan Your Garden 41

J Building Boxes and Structures 53

Mel's Mix, Essential for Square Foot Gardening Success . . . 87

How to Plant Your All New Square Foot Garden 107

Growing and Harvesting 131

Vertical Gardening 145

Extending the Seasons 165

Special Gardens & Gardeners 179

Appendix 188

i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i

^ W h y write a n u p d a t e d version o f the best selling g a r d e n i n g b o o k of all time? T h e old saying goes, " I f it ain't broke, don't fix it."

W e l l , Square F o o t G a r d e n isn't b r o k e n , b u t the all new m o d e l is so superior, so m u c h simpler, a n d so i m p r o v e d that y o u can n o w forget all a b o u t the original b o o k and the original Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g m e t h o d !

What's so n e w about the All New Square Foot Gardening book?

T h e original can be considered the M o d e l T of Square F o o t Gardening. T h i s n e w one . . . like the latest Cadillac! T h e y are both cars and they b o t h m o v e d o w n the road . . . b u t — o h b o y — w h a t a difference!

In this expanded and revised b o o k on Square Foot Gardening, y o u too can learn, as millions of others already have, h o w to b e c o m e a successful gardener the simple a n d painless way. T h i s easy-to-understand m e t h o d will revolutionize the w a y y o u t h i n k a b o u t gardening; and the n e w ideas found in this revised edition will awe and inspire y o u as I share insights on h o w the Square Foot G a r d e n i n g m e t h o d can, and is, changing the world.

For Experts Only

A reporter o n c e asked me if I t h o u g h t I h a d invented "gardening for d u m m i e s , " referring, of course, to the p o p u l a r Square F o o t Gardening m e t h o d I developed in 1 9 7 6 . " N o , " I answered.

Actually, w h e n I invented the Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g ( S F G ) method, I t h o u g h t it w o u l d be for expert gardeners. My m e t h o d was very precise and detailed, yet very simple and easy to understand, and it provided all the conditions necessary for successfully g r o w i n g a broad variety of plants in a very different way. It also eliminated all of the wasteful, inefficient practices of traditional single-row gardening. I t h o u g h t the experts w o u l d shout "Eureka!" a n d immediately bless all of the n e w ideas and advantages of this n e w h o m e gardening m e t h o d .

Beginners Understood

As it turned out, the experts never understood this u n i q u e m e t h o d .

Apparently it was too simple and easy. B u t the b e g i n n i n g gardener,

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

and those discouraged by previous failed attempts, understood it completely. T h e y immediately saw the simplicity o f S F G . T h e beginner's instant response was "I can do this!" while the experts continued to question every aspect of this revolutionary gardening m e t h o d .

T h e y just couldn't admit that h o m e gardening c o u l d be that easy.

Two Hours or Two Weeks

In my lectures, I like to reassure audiences that if they are n e w at gardening, or perhaps afraid or o v e r w h e l m e d by the idea of starting a garden, they will be able to learn this simple m e t h o d of gardening in just an h o u r or t w o . H o w e v e r , if they are already "expert"

gardeners, it will probably take t h e m a b o u t t w o weeks! After the laughter dies d o w n , I remind my audience that beginners readily accept the m i n i m a l a m o u n t of technical information needed to b e c o m e successful gardeners because they w a n t to k n o w h o w to successfully garden.

T h e "experts," on the other hand, are so entrenched w i t h the idea of single-row gardening as used in farming, w i t h all of its wasteful m e t h o d s , that they just can't see it a n y other way. Y o u m i g h t say,

" T h e y are stuck in a rut." As a result, I've learned to leave the experts alone a n d concentrate on the beginner, or the tried-but-failed, gardener, and even the afraid-to-start person.

S F G appeals to other large groups of w o u l d - b e gardeners. Years ago, I read some very interesting statistics (and I'm sure the percentages are similar today) about these gardeners.

75 Million vs. 10 Million

Every year there are about 15 million people w h o :

• w o u l d like to begin gardening.

• tried the traditional single-row gardening m e t h o d , but failed.

• don't w a n t to begin gardening because they have heard of all the hard work, time, and cost associated with gardening.

• are d o i n g single-row gardening but are tired of the hard work, time, and cost associated w i t h this impractical method.

• are unable to continue caring for their big single-row gardens.

C o m b i n e d , that's an estimated 75 million people ready for a gardening revolution c o m p a r e d t o a b o u t 1 0 million single-row gardeners w h o are content w i t h their m e t h o d and don't w a n t to change.

Twenty-Five Years and One Million Books Later

T h e first b o o k I wrote on S F G in 1 9 8 1 lasted twenty-five years and sold over one million copies, b e c o m i n g the best selling gardening

Introduction

11

b o o k in America. Here is the story behind h o w I came to invent a better w a y to garden, and the ultimate success of S F G .

It Started in 1975

It all started in 1 9 7 5 after my retirement from my consulting engineering business in N e w Jersey. In celebration, I m o v e d my family to a waterfront h o m e on the N o r t h Shore of L o n g Island. After a year of rebuilding the house and another year of landscaping and improving the grounds, I decided to take up gardening as a hobby. My first step was to attend a lecture on composting given by a local environmental group. It was a w a r m spring day in A p r i l — a great time to be o u t in the garden. A small group milled around at the advertised meeting point, but no instructor ever showed up. So, rather than disband, I suggested to the group that we each share our knowledge w i t h each other a n d tell w h a t little we k n e w a b o u t c o m p o s t i n g . We h a d a wonderful time and actually learned a little bit from each other. As we prepared to leave, someone asked m e , " C a n we do this again next week?" A n d I said, "Sure, w h y not?" T h u s began my n e w career of teaching gardening while I was still a novice myself.

Community Garden

T h e next step was organizing a c o m m u n i t y garden for this same environmental g r o u p . I f o u n d some land and c o n v i n c e d the t o w n to cut d o w n all the weeds and fence it in. A local farmer delivered t w o truckloads of well-rotted manure, and, after the g r o u n d was all fertilized a n d p l o w e d u p , we laid o u t plots and aisles a n d o p e n e d for business. A l l of the spaces were quickly taken by people in the c o m m u n i t y , a n d everyone started w i t h great enthusiasm. Since most of the participants didn't have a garden at h o m e a n d were novices, they were enthusiastic a b o u t o b t a i n i n g instruction a n d insights on gardening.

So I initiated a Saturday m o r n i n g gardening w o r k s h o p a n d presented i n f o r m a t i o n on a different subject each w e e k while everyone sat around on bales of hay listening. I was teaching basic single-row gardening because that's all anyone k n e w back then. I was busy s t u d y i n g a n d learning g a r d e n i n g myself, trying to keep ahead o f everyone's questions! T h e local c o u n t y agricultural agent h e l p e d out and everything w e n t well until about midsummer. It was about then that our once-enthusiastic gardeners stopped c o m i n g out to the garden. However, the weeds kept c o m i n g — a n d growing! Pretty soon the place was overgrown and looked a mess.

First Red Flag

I was discouraged and thought I had better do some research to figure out w h y we had failed, so I visited m a n y backyard gardens.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

W h a t I found was a big space w a y o u t in the farthest corner of the yard, about as close to the neighbor's property line as possible. In most cases, these individual gardens were also filled w i t h overgrown weeds. T h e first red flag w e n t up in my m i n d , indicating that there was something w r o n g w i t h traditional single-row gardening. I began to think about all the conventional gardening practices we'd been taught and began to question the efficiency of each.

Three-Foot Aisles

I questioned w h y fertilizer is spread over the entire garden area, but the plants are only placed in long, skinny rows w i t h 3-foot wide aisles on both sides. I w o n d e r e d w h y y o u were supposed to till up all the soil in an entire garden area w h e n those 3-foot w i d e aisles consume over 80 percent of a garden area, although plants in rows require less t h a n 2 0 percent o f the garden space. T h e n I w o n d e r e d w h y y o u w o u l d walk all over the rest of the garden area again, packing d o w n all that newly tilled soil? A n d , w h y is an entire garden area watered w h e n plants are only located in a 6-inch wide row in the center of a 6-foot wide strip?

Too Many, Too Much

As I analyzed these traditional gardening methods, I realized that there is only one o u t c o m e y o u can expect w h e n y o u fertilize and water a 3-foot w i d e aisle w i t h nothing planted in it—weeds!

T h e following is a conversation I had w i t h a friend of m i n e w h o was an agricultural agent.

" W h y a 3-foot w i d e aisle on b o t h sides of the planted row?"

I asked.

Introduction

13

" S o y o u have r o o m to get into the garden to h o e the w e e d s , "

he replied.

" B u t I don't w a n t to h o e the w e e d s , " I protested. "That's t o o m u c h w o r k . "

" W e l l , " he said, "let's face it. G a r d e n i n g is a lot of hard w o r k . "

T h i s triggered another red flag in my mind. Gardening shouldn't be a lot of hard work. G a r d e n i n g should be fun! There's something w r o n g here.

T h i s led t o further questions. W h y d o the planting instructions on packages of seeds direct the gardener to p o u r o u t an entire packet a l o n g a row o n l y to have y o u later go back and tear o u t 95

percent of the seeds y o u planted once they sprout? W h y use up an entire $ 1 . 8 9 packet of seeds for every r o w y o u plant? Isn't that rather wasteful? W h y w o u l d they instruct us to plant that way?

W h o ' s in charge here, anyway?

Thirty-Foot Rows

T h e next question I asked was w h y plant an entire row of everything?

Just because my garden is 30 feet long, for example, do I really w a n t or need a w h o l e r o w of cabbages? T h a t w o u l d be thirty cabbages spaced 12 inches apart. T h i s brings me to another c o m m o n s e n s e revelation that no one seems to have thought about. W h y w o u l d I want thirty cabbages to ripen all at the same time? If everything is planted at one time, won't it also be ready to harvest all at once? It sounds like farming to m e , but that's too m u c h to enjoy at the same time for a h o m e o w n e r . H o w m a n y people go to the grocery store and b u y thirty heads of cabbage once a year? Do you? So w h y grow it that way? T h e r e must be a better w a y to stagger the harvest, and the obvious solution is to stagger the time of planting whenever possible and to plant less.

Because That's the Way

I soon realized that I had a lot of questions w i t h very few answers, so I traveled all over the country seeking out the best experts: agricultural college professors, c o u n t y agricultural agents, garden writers, radio and T V gardening personalities, gardening publishers, b o o k writers, garden c l u b s — a l l those w h o were supposedly knowledgeable people in the field of gardening. I sought answers to all the gardening questions I h a d and, no matter w h e r e I traveled t h r o u g h o u t the country from M a i n e to California, I kept receiving the same answer.

C a n y o u i m a g i n e w h a t that answer was? It s o o n b e c a m e apparent that the o n l y reason traditional single-row g a r d e n i n g m e t h o d s continued to exist was, "Because that's the way we've always done it!" Right then and there I said, "I'm g o i n g to invent a better w a y to garden."

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Farming

Part of the p r o b l e m , I realized, was that single-row g a r d e n i n g was n o t h i n g b u t a h a n d - m e - d o w n t e c h n i q u e f r o m large-field crop farming. Single rows m a k e sense w h e n y o u d e p e n d u p o n a m u l e or a tractor to p l o w up the soil a n d tend the crops because those b i g hooves or wheels take up a lot of r o o m . B u t w h y h a d no o n e ever realized that in a h o m e garden, there is no longer a need for all that wasted space. T h e r e o n l y needs to be r o o m for t w o f e e t —

yours! Yet, every single direction for h o m e gardening still instructs,

"Space rows 3 feet apart." Perhaps that's really the gardening m e t h o d for d u m m i e s !

Efficiency

T h e next step I t o o k was to list all of the ineffective, inefficient, and unnecessary steps that have been consistently taught for traditional single-row gardening and then find a better and more efficient w a y to accomplish the same task. I should mention here that besides being a civil engineer, I was also an efficiency expert. Before I sold my engineering company, my job was to travel to construction sites or manufacturing facilities to analyze current processes in order to identify and correct inefficiencies in facility operations. In other words, to find a better way. T h u s , the challenge of inventing a n e w w a y to garden was right up my alley. T h e sequence of questions I asked and simple solutions I developed was actually very easy and straightforward, but it involved a little out-of-the-box thinking.

Follow me along now.

One Thousand Seeds

I have fun w h e n teaching a class or seminar by asking, " H o w m a n y seeds do y o u think are in a packet of leaf lettuce?" S o m e guess fifty, one hundred, two hundred, and some even venture a guess as high as five h u n d r e d seeds. I then astound t h e m by saying that I o n c e o p e n e d a packet and c o u n t e d t h e m , a n d there were well over o n e t h o u s a n d seeds! W h y plant hundreds o f seeds i n o n e l o n g row, and then turn around w h e n they sprout and thin t h e m out to one plant for every 6 inches? It doesn't m a k e sense, does it? It's a terrible waste of seeds a n d time a n d w o r k — a l l useless, unnecessary w o r k .

My first solution was to lay d o w n a yardstick a n d plant o n e seed every 6 inches. T h e n , I h a d n o t h i n g further to do a n d no wasted seeds. T h e next t h o u g h t was, if you're growing, for example, lettuce, and the seed packet says to thin plants to 6 inches apart in the row, h o w far away does the next row really need to be? T h e answer, of course, is 6 i n c h e s — n o t 3 feet!

Introduction

15

Single Row, Double Row, Triple Row

Depending on the mature size

Eager to test my reasoning, I planted t w o rows, 6 inches apart, to of each plant, space a couple of

see h o w well the plants w o u l d d o . It w o r k e d ! T h e plants grew just seeds or transplants one, four,

as well in t w o rows as they did in a single row, as l o n g as each plant nine, or sixteen per square foot.

had 6 inches all around. N e x t I tried a triple r o w — t h r e e rows where I placed all the plants 6 inches apart in all directions. Again, it worked!

H o w wide could I make this, I asked? T h e answer is, as wide as y o u can reach in to maintain your garden; in other words, as long as your arms. But I still had a harvest too large to utilize.

Shorten the Rows

So w h a t was the obvious solution? Shorten the rows! A n d they kept getting shorter and shorter, until they were only 12 inches l o n g and 12 inches w i d e — a square foot planting area. H o w many plants could y o u g r o w in that square foot if each plant was 6 inches apart? T h e simple answer: four plants per square foot.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Plant Spacing

S o , in summary, if plants should be t h i n n e d to 12 inches apart, plant o n e per square foot. If plants s h o u l d be t h i n n e d to 6 inches apart, plant four per square foot. If plants s h o u l d be t h i n n e d to 4 inches apart then y o u can g r o w nine w i t h i n the space of that o n e square foot. If plants are thinned to 3 inches apart, y o u can g r o w sixteen in that same square foot. Doesn't it all m a k e sense a n d seem easy enough?

Never Walk on Soil

1 then w o n d e r e d just h o w far someone could reach in to maintain a garden w i t h o u t compacting the soil by w a l k i n g all over it. So, I got a little old lady and a big husky m a n and measured h o w far they could easily reach. I f o u n d that b o t h c o u l d c o m f o r t a b l y reach in 2 feet w i t h o u t losing balance. In order to reach in 2 feet a n d w a l k all the w a y around your garden, y o u end up having a 4 x4-foot area.

N o w , the o n l y soil that needs to be d u g u p , i m p r o v e d , watered, a n d fertilized is a 4 x 4 - f o o t garden area a n d n o t all the aisles. T h a t reduced the actual g r o w i n g area in the garden by 80 percent. A n d , an added benefit is the g r o w i n g soil in the 4 x 4 - f o o t area is never packed d o w n , so y o u don't have to hoe or dig up the ground to keep loosening the planting soil.

Soil Improvement

T h e next step w a s h o w to i m p r o v e the soil. After listening to agricultural agents a n d reading b o o k s on soil i m p r o v e m e n t a n d conditioning, the only option seemed to require a great deal of w o r k , time, and money. My research indicated that average soil conditions a r o u n d the c o u n t r y were n o t well-suited for g r o w i n g healthy vegetables a n d beautiful flowers. T h u s , in m o s t areas soils had to be greatly improved to obtain the best gardening results.

Horse Manure

M o s t soils o n l y contain a b o u t 3 or 4 percent organic material.

T h u s , the traditional first step for i m p r o v i n g soil in preparation for g a r d e n i n g was to d i g or till up the soil in the entire garden as deep as y o u c o u l d and then add soil enhancers such as c o m p o s t or well-rotted m a n u r e followed later by c o m m e r c i a l fertilizers. T h i s initial step rang a bell w i t h me because, as a teenager, I was the o n e w h o h a d t o turn over m y mother's garden, d i g g i n g the w h o l e t h i n g u p every year. M y father h a d t o bring h o m e bushel baskets full of horse m a n u r e in his b r a n d n e w Chrysler. After we d u m p e d it into the garden area, I had to do all of the spreading, m i x i n g , and turning. As laborers in M o m ' s garden every spring, my dad a n d I were not h a p p y campers, although she was thrilled w i t h the results.

Introduction

17

The Seven-Year Itch

I o n c e c o n d u c t e d a survey, asking gardeners h o w l o n g it t o o k t h e m to improve their soil until they g o t it just the w a y they w a n t e d it.

T h e average answer was a b o u t seven y e a r s — s e v e n years o f hard w o r k t o properly c o n d i t i o n the soil for gardening! A n d d o y o u k n o w w h a t statistics say the average h o m e o w n e r does after seven years? T h e y move! A n d guess w h o buys that home? S o m e o n e w h o doesn't even garden!

Y o u can p r o b a b l y i m a g i n e the conversation b e t w e e n the n e w homeowners. "Henry, let's pave over that garden area; it w o u l d make a great place to park the trailer." Seven years w o r t h of effort lost.

There's something definitely w r o n g w i t h this scenario.

Start Right in a Single Day

I started thinking, " W h y not have great soil during the first year of y o u r garden, a n d every year thereafter, no matter w h e r e y o u live?"

Of course, w i t h traditional b i g garden areas, h a v i n g the best soil conditions right away m a y be too costly and entail too m u c h time a n d effort. R e m e m b e r that after I d i d the m a t h , I f o u n d that by switching from a traditional single-row garden to a 4 x4-foot layout

— w h i c h will produce the same h a r v e s t — 8 0 percent of the garden area could be completely eliminated. T h i s means that y o u can g r o w 100 percent o f the harvest i n o n l y 2 0 percent o f the space. T h a t 80 percent of a single-row garden is wasted s p a c e — s p a c e that doesn't need to be fertilized, watered, or i m p r o v e d , b u t it does have to be weeded. T h i n k o f it. W i t h the S F G m e t h o d , seven years w o r t h o f w o r k can suddenly be condensed into as little as a single day w i t h o u t all the effort!

The 4x4-Foot Garden

My first b o o k showed h o w y o u could reduce the w o r k by laying o u t a 4 x4-foot area, then digging o u t 6 inches of existing soil and m i x i n g in 2 inches of peat moss, 2 inches of vermiculite, a n d 2 inches of c o m p o s t . T h e s e ingredients are available at a n y nursery. M a n y gardeners even m a k e their o w n c o m p o s t at h o m e from kitchen scraps and other plant material. M i x i n g the ingredients together w i t h the soil that y o u r e m o v e d , y o u n o w have 1 2 inches o f 5 0 percent improved soil. My thinking was that 12 inches of improved existing soil w o u l d be all that n e w plants w o u l d need to thrive w i t h the plant roots staying within these 12 inches of improved soil. B u t the experts I consulted said that most vegetable plant roots need to keep g r o w i n g downward, searching for water and nutrients many, m a n y feet below the surface of the soil. " B u t , " I t h o u g h t , " i f plants are provided a g o o d growing soil c o m p o s e d of more than 15 percent organic matter, and if vermiculite and peat moss are mixed in, helping to retain water

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

in the soil, plant roots w o u l d no longer need to continue growing d o w n w a r d in search of additional moisture and nutrients." Besides that, I w o n d e r e d if they were right about the roots needing to g r o w deeper than 12 inches, h o w c o m e most ro to tillers dig d o w n less than 6 inches? Well, it turned out they were w r o n g . O u r gardens thrived w i t h less than 12 inches of i m p r o v e d soil a n d that was just the beginning! W a i t until y o u read C h a p t e r 2, w h i c h describes the latest advances in this "out of the box" type of thinking.

Stagger the Harvest

I also realized that if each square foot c o u l d be planted w i t h a different crop containing either one, four, nine, or sixteen plants, all properly spaced, it wouldn't be necessary to plant a w h o l e row of just one crop. So, w h y not stagger your vegetable plantings, so that your harvest is also staggered? M a k e s sense, doesn't it? Yet we've been t a u g h t all our lives to plant everything all at o n c e in l o n g r o w s —

another h a n d - m e - d o w n technique from large-field crop farming. If you're farming for commercial purposes, y o u w a n t everything to ripen at once so it can be harvested together and taken to market. B u t w i t h h o m e gardening, y o u w a n t to stagger your produce so y o u can use it throughout the season for daily consumption.

O f course, I'm n o t talking a b o u t c a n n i n g , freezing, a n d other home-storage measures, a l t h o u g h S F G is a practical gardening m e t h o d for these purposes also. However, I've f o u n d that people are not storing h o m e g r o w n produce to the extent they did in the past.

Remember, I grew up in the days of the "victory garden," a result of W o r l d W a r II w h e n Americans were encouraged by the government a n d by society to have a b i g garden that used the o l d single-row p l a n t i n g m e t h o d s . M o s t people w h o grew u p d u r i n g those years hated gardening because of all the w e e d i n g and hard w o r k it entailed.

T h a t carried over into a whole generation of people w h o stayed away from gardening just because of the negative memories associated w i t h maintaining a large traditional garden. A n d , I m i g h t add, also from all the w o r k of canning and freezing. So w h y does the government still teach the same old system more than 60 years later?

Stop Planting So Much

I meet m a n y mature couples where the husband proudly states, "I have a big single-row garden, and I g r o w a lot of produce." A n d the w o m a n responds, " O h , b u t I w i s h he'd stop. He grows all this produce that we really don't need anymore. T h e n I have to can and freeze it. I'm tired and don't w a n t to do it anymore. We don't need it but he just keeps growing it!" W i t h S F G , y o u don't have to g r o w so m u c h at a time that it becomes overwhelming.

Introduction

19

Location

I began to realize another great advantage of S F G — b y reducing the garden size by 80 percent, it increases the n u m b e r of places where a garden will fit. A garden no longer has to be w a y o u t back, snugly p u t u p against y o u r neighbor's p r o p e r t y line. A n d since y o u don't have to fertilize, water, a n d w e e d the aisles, it can n o w be located near the h o u s e .

Up Close and Personal

"Closer is better" is one S F G m o t t o . W h e n a garden is closer to the front or back d o o r of your h o m e , y o u pass by the garden more often.

T h i s m e a n s it is easier to take care of a n d can be m o r e readily enjoyed, all of w h i c h results in a better g a r d e n a n d a h a p p i e r gardener. T h e w h o l e package fits together nicely. T h e r e are so m a n y advantages to Square Foot Gardening, and the benefits and efficiencies of the concept only continue to increase.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

The Square Foot Gardening Story

Community Garden

Well, we tried all these n e w ideas in the c o m m u n i t y garden the next year, a n d , guess what? T h e y w o r k e d ! Everyone u n d e r s t o o d a n d grasped the Square Foot G a r d e n i n g concepts quickly and easily, and since m o s t o f the participants were b e g i n n i n g gardeners w h o were well acquainted w i t h the disastrous experience f r o m the previous y e a r — i n c l u d i n g the overgrown weeds and m o u n d s of zucchini and rows of cabbage that ripened all at o n c e — t h e y were very w i l l i n g to try another o p t i o n . T h a t next year, 1 9 7 6 , we were able to enjoy a v e r y attractive a n d well-run c o m m u n i t y garden using the n e w l y developed Square Foot method. T h e Bicentennial year of 1 9 7 6 was a h u g e celebration across the c o u n t r y a n d we also celebrated my youngest son's July Fourth birthday. I decided to do three things: one for m y country, o n e for m y family, a n d o n e for myself. T h e official presentation of Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g w a s m a d e at a h o m e t o w n event that i n c l u d e d a school project that I h a d organized. A l l the schools grew sunflowers, w h i c h were planted along M a i n Street as a beautification project. W e h a d a n all-day celebration o f displays, talks, b o o t h s , a n d demonstrations o n the n e w Square F o o t G a r -

dening m e t h o d I had developed. I a n n o u n c e d this was my gift to the c o u n t r y — a better w a y to garden.

Sharing Ideas, 1978 to 1980

Because of the overwhelming success of the project and the unique S F G m e t h o d , m a n y people encouraged me to write a b o o k sharing cc

my ideas. First, the local newspaper asked me to write a garden

You have forever

c o l u m n . T h e n I began w r i t i n g a n d p r o d u c i n g p a m p h l e t s . S o o n ,

changed gardening

magazine representatives started c o m i n g out to photograph my h o m e

for me.

garden and to write stories about my n e w ideas and the S F G m e t h o d .

T h e media attention grew and grew, so I thought, " W h y not write a

—Kanas from California

b o o k ? " I drafted an outline and sent it to t w o publishers, w h i c h both accepted the " h o w to" b o o k on successful gardening using the n e w S F G m e t h o d .

Garden Consulting, 1981 to 1984

At the same time, I also began d o i n g gardening consulting w o r k for several companies. Y o u can imagine h o w "retired" I was now. O n e was a fence company, and, using their products, I began to develop vertical gardening methods, originally for tomatoes b u t later for all v i n e crops. A n o t h e r c o m p a n y w a n t e d to start a g a r d e n i n g tool catalog. So my j o b was to search the w o r l d for unique and unusual tools, test and evaluate them, m a k e recommendations, and then

Introduction

21

arrange the w r i t i n g of sample descriptions for the catalog. D u r i n g this t i m e , I w o n d e r e d w h y we n e e d e d so m u c h stuff just to garden.

A n d , as you'll learn, I discovered that y o u don't.

PBS One Minute, 1981 to 1986

My publishers predictions for my b o o k were very modest, so they didn't p r o m o t e my b o o k the w a y I had h o p e d or even send me o u t for talks and appearances. Fortunately, some of the companies I was consulting for d i d send m e o n tours a n d allowed m e t o s h o w the b o o k and talk about Square Foot G a r d e n i n g if I also explained and demonstrated their products. T h i s proved to be a very valuable and rewarding p e r i o d , a n d it wasn't l o n g before a local P B S television station asked if they could send their camera crew out to my garden to shoot "A M i n u t e in Mel's Garden" segment for the evening news. I was delighted to have the opportunity to share the S F G m e t h o d . T h e response to that short segment was explosive. T h e television station received so m u c h mail and so m a n y telephone calls that they wanted to tape a s h o w for broadcast every w e e k night. So, once a w e e k they came to my garden and taped five different segments. T h a t again proved so popular that later they asked if I w o u l d be interested in a thirty-minute national show. Y o u bet I was!

Thirty-Minute PBS TV Series, 1982 to 1986

To make a l o n g story short, my show aired the following year on P B S

and was picked up by e n o u g h stations along the East C o a s t to pay for itself. T h e following year I started my o w n production c o m p a n y and distributed the thirty-minute Square Foot G a r d e n i n g s h o w througho u t the entire P B S system. W i t h i n three years it was p i c k e d up by every P B S station in the c o u n t r y a n d received the highest rating of any garden show. T h i s involved a lot of travel, b u t it was all v e r y exciting. M y oldest son, Steve, b e c a m e the s h o w director, a n d w e traveled a r o u n d the c o u n t r y to different viewers' gardens that were particularly w o r t h y o f sharing w i t h our audience. W e were also invited to D i s n e y W o r l d to shoot during the winter, an opportunity we couldn't pass up. All of this excitement and activity made it a very rewarding and exciting period of my life.

More Television Opportunities

In addition to all the above activity a n d travel, m a n y other opportunities occurred w i t h T V networks like C N N out o f Atlanta, Georgia, C B N in Virginia Beach, Virginia, and several appearances o n A B C , G o o d M o r n i n g Boston, G o o d M o r n i n g Philly, and m a n y other TV spots all around the country. A l l of that brought in a ton of mail (whoever had heard of e-mail back then?) and activities w i t h companies interested in developing S F G products including some

22

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

big companies such as Rubbermaid. T h i s was exciting and eventful, yet at times stressful a n d exhausting. T h r o u g h all of it, my wife G i n n y courageously t o o k care of everything at h o m e and even p u t up w i t h — y e t never quite got used t o — t h e film crews c o m i n g once a w e e k t o f i l m the P B S T V show. I t w a s b a d e n o u g h t o have the constant activity outside in the garden, b u t they even invaded her k i t c h e n to do the c o o k i n g segment. Since such a b i g part of gardening is in the harvest and food preparation, I convinced P B S to let us have the first c o o k i n g segment on a garden show. N o w , of course, they all do that.

TV Book Tag

I originally offered the p r o g r a m to P B S free of charge if they w o u l d give me a o n e - m i n u t e b o o k tag at the end of each show. At that time, P B S was commercial-free a n d h a d no corporate sponsors. B u t they were finally c o n v i n c e d that it w o u l d be w o r t h w h i l e , allowing me to be the first person to have a b o o k tag on a P B S show. As a result, a t r e m e n d o u s n u m b e r of orders for the S F G b o o k were received. We h a d to set up a toll-free n u m b e r a n d a fulfillment c o m p a n y to process these orders. After six years, the operation b e c a m e fairly routine a n d the challenge of creating s o m e t h i n g n e w was over. At the same time, s o m e P B S stations started talking like they s h o u l d share in the profits of the b o o k sales, yet they still w a n t e d the s h o w free. Rather than c o m p r o m i s e the initial agree-m e n t , I d e c i d e d to take the s h o w off the air a n d retire for the second time. T h i s time, my retirement was "for sure."

Discovery Network 1989 to 1991

A few years later, an agent came to me and said that he could get the TV show back on the air. I didn't w a n t anything to do w i t h it; I was happily retired. B u t w h e n he offered to do all the w o r k and take care of all the details, I thought, "Well, w h a t harm could there be?" (We never learn, do we?) I finally agreed, and he sold the show to the Discovery N e t w o r k where it ran for t w o years and then on T h e Learning C h a n n e l for another year. I again t o o k the show off the air. I decided that that was i t — I really was retiring for good!

(Yeah, sure!)

California Schools, 1996

Five years later, w h e n I was traveling in northern California, someone invited me to c o m e see a school garden. "It's a Square Foot G a r d e n , "

they explained. I w e n t and thought it was so impressive. T h e children were really enjoying the gardening experience, and the teachers loved it so m u c h that I b e g a n to t h i n k that perhaps I really shouldn't be r e t i r e d — I should be out teaching S F G to school children. So, again,

Introduction

23

One of the truly great features of

SFG is how easy it is for children

(of all ages!) to participate.

I came out of retirement (you k n o w the saying "fools rush in") and established a nonprofit foundation to design a program for teachers explaining h o w t o teach Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g t o students. T h e foundation also built and distributed numerous gardens throughout the country. We called the p r o g r a m "A Square Yard in the S c h o o l Yard" since the children's gardens are sized at 3 x3 feet.

Utah Schools, 1998

T h i s phase of my life also involved a lot of travel. As I developed n e w staff members, we w e n t from school to school donating gardens all the w a y from M a i n e to Florida and on to the California coast. W h e n offering Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g to schools in U t a h , we tried s o m e t h i n g new. Rather t h a n g o i n g f r o m teacher to teacher a n d school to school, we w e n t straight to the state board of education.

T h e y liked our idea so m u c h that they said, "We'll take a garden for every single grammar school in the state of U t a h . " We gulped and said, "Well, let's see w h a t we can d o . "

Thanksgiving Point, 1999 to 2001

O v e r the next t w o years, we were able to do just that. N e x t , the school board asked if I w o u l d write a lesson plan for U t a h teachers a n d students. I did, a n d it has n o w been m o d i f i e d for h o m e schooling as well. We were then invited to p u t up a public display Square Foot G a r d e n at T h a n k s g i v i n g Point near Salt Lake City.

T h o u s a n d s visited the garden and, since Salt Lake C i t y is h o m e to the C h u r c h of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (the L D S church or M o r m o n s ) , S F G gained the attention o f m a n y L D S church leaders.

T h e y invited the foundation to teach S F G at the L D S Missionary

24

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Training Center in Provo, Utah. We showed missionaries h o w to instruct people living in T h i r d W o r l d countries to b e c o m e more self-sufficient by growing their o w n food using the Square Meter G a r d e n i n g m e t h o d , w h i c h we had converted from the Square Foot G a r d e n i n g m e t h o d .

Square Meter Gardening: SFG Humanitarian Efforts Go Global, 2001 to 2002

Opportunities for the S F G foundation just kept on growing as we became involved with additional humanitarian organizations that sent aid overseas, m a n y of w h i c h began including the Square Meter G a r d e n i n g system in their programs. S M G was designed to appeal to families in T h i r d W o r l d countries and improve nutrition by adding fresh vegetables to their diets. It is s o m e t h i n g that can be readily done, as the soil that is used in this program is pure compost since peat moss and vermiculite is either unavailable or too expensive to obtain overseas. An added advantage is that m a k i n g compost cleans up the environment and gets all the family members involved.

SFG International Training Center in Homestead, Florida

Since gardening in U t a h is at a standstill all winter, the logical direction to go that time of year is south. T h r o u g h our w o r k w i t h several international organizations headquartered in W a s h i n g t o n , D . C . , the opportunity came to spend the winter in southern Florida w h e r e w e set u p a n S F G International T r a i n i n g C e n t e r i n H o m e -

stead. T h i s proved very educational for us because the weather, plants, a n d techniques were m u c h m o r e like C e n t r a l and S o u t h A m e r i c a . We provided a three-day training seminar for the people heading to those countries as representatives of various humanitarian organizations. T h i s enabled Square Meter G a r d e n i n g to be taken to quite a variety of people and places.

Overseas

W h e n w o r k i n g w i t h people overseas, the first step is to teach t h e m c o m p o s t i n g . Since m o s t T h i r d - W o r l d countries are located in tropical regions of the world, it's very easy to find materials that can be used to generate compost. O n e of the biggest successes in Square Meter G a r d e n i n g is a project developed in India. It illustrates h o w easy it is to offer m e a n i n g f u l foreign aid to countries w i t h o u t spending millions of dollars. It is also a successful w a y of encouraging i n d e p e n d e n c e rather than d e p e n d e n c e on g o v e r n m e n t a l bureau-cracies. T h i s success story b e g a n after a priest n a m e d Father A b r a h a m received the Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g b o o k . He read it a n d said, " W e can do this!" As a result, he n o w operates a sizeable, well-organized 6-acre training center where h u n d r e d s — p e r h a p s

Introduction

25

t h o u s a n d s — o f people have c o m e t o learn the Square M e t e r G a r d e n i n g m e t h o d . T h e people are learning to successfully g r o w crops they can n o t o n l y use at h o m e b u t can take to market where they earn t w e n t y times m o r e than they did previously g r o w i n g crops the traditional single-row way.

Single Rows Throughout the World

Believe it or not, m a n y people around the w o r l d still garden and grow crops in single rows. W h e n I was in the mountains of Nepal, I observed the farmers growing corn one spindly stalk spaced 1 meter (approximately 3 feet) apart from the next spindly stalk, w i t h the next row 1 meter away. T h r o u g h the interpreter I asked w h y they space and plant their crops this way. T h e answer, as y o u can probably guess, was "That's the w a y we've always d o n e it. My father taught m e , and that's the w a y his father taught h i m . "

Your method

Just think of all the g o o d that will be accomplished w h e n Square

has given me the

Foot/Meter G a r d e n i n g is a d o p t e d all over the w o r l d . It will allow families to g r o w five times as m u c h for their o w n use, thereby

confidence to try

i m p r o v i n g their health t h r o u g h better nutrition; family life will

veggies again

improve w i t h the n e w a b u n d a n c e . It will d r a w families closer

after a few feeble

together as they b e c o m e involved in a viable and productive project,

attempts."

and they can sell the excess at market. T h e w o m a n of the family is our primary target for this project, as she is most concerned w i t h the

—Anne from Florida

children's nutrition.

Certified SFG Teachers

We hold workshops to train teachers and people w h o w a n t to help others learn this simple, easy, inexpensive m e t h o d that a n y o n e , anywhere in the w o r l d can do. Just t h i n k — w h a t if every w o m a n in the w o r l d started just one Square Foot/Meter Garden? T h o s e nine crops could improve the nutrition of her children; m a n y could even expand by planting m o r e gardens for larger harvests and even to g r o w cash crops. O n e of our trainees w h o t o o k our course for certification then w e n t on a mission to teach schoolchildren music at orphanages in an African country. At the same time, she started m a n y S F G

projects; her stories of success were heartwarming and inspiring.

Garden of Eden

After enjoying three very p r o d u c t i v e years w i t h our S F G D i s p l a y Gardens at T h a n k s g i v i n g Point, U t a h , we h a d to m a k e a decision because developers were g o i n g to b u i l d a n e w b u i l d i n g w h e r e our gardens were located. Rather than m o v e the gardens to another location, I decided it was time to get away for a sabbatical to do some planning and writing and discovered the beautiful, small m o u n t a i n c o m m u n i t y of E d e n , Utah. I intended to only stay and write for a

26

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

few months. K n o w i n g I w o u l d need some clerical help, I placed an ad in the local newspaper and received an o v e r w h e l m i n g response f r o m people w a n t i n g t o help w i t h S F G . T h o s e initial few m o n t h s stretched into years, and E d e n became an appropriately n a m e d h o m e base for spreading S F G throughout the world. T h r o u g h the developm e n t of the Square Foot G a r d e n i n g website and e-mail contacts, the w o r l d has literally become my next-door neighbor.

The Story Goes On And On

Recently, a representative from Guadalajara, M e x i c o , e-mailed asking for one of our representatives to visit and advise h i m in the developm e n t of a large urban S F G project that w o u l d teach and enable w o m e n to help their families. A really big and impressive project has been started in Sri Lanka. O t h e r s have recently written f r o m U k r a i n e , M o n g o l i a , E g y p t , Iraq, Jordan, a n d Africa requesting training in the S F G m e t h o d because they see and k n o w w h a t a great difference it can m a k e in their respective countries.

I receive reports f r o m successful S F G projects t h r o u g h o u t the w o r l d . S u c h a report came f r o m o n e of our certified teachers, a professor f r o m Tennessee, along w i t h p h o t o s of her international project in Ecuador. Letters c o m e from people in Switzerland, France, Germany, Spain, Argentina, and C h i n a volunteering to help translate our website and b o o k into different languages.

T h e viewer c o m m e n t s sent to our website at www.squarefoot

gardening.com are p h e n o m e n a l a n d the stories are n o t o n l y heartw a r m i n g , b u t s o m e are very funny. O n e lady said the o n l y g o o d thing she got in her divorce was my S F G book! A n o t h e r told of the family b o n d that was forged as he sat w i t h his father (now deceased) w a t c h i n g my P B S TV show in the early '80s. He still has his father's original book. An entire S F G generation has passed by since I started.

Boy, am I getting that old? A n d n o w in the electronic age, we have the website and e-mail to replace the TV s h o w and snail mail. Back then, we offered a free garden tips flyer a n d a packet of seeds ( m y favorite, marigolds) if viewers sent in a S A S E . Do y o u y o u n g e r gardeners k n o w w h a t that stands for? A s k your parents. We received ten thousand letters and sold one thousand books every week. W h a t a hectic, exciting experience! B u t n o w that's all history, and it's time for an all new S F G book for a n e w generation of gardeners.

Why an All New Square Foot Gardening Book Now?

T h e answer is s i m p l e — I have made so m a n y new improvements to the original basic S F G method. M o s t of these improvements are so major they make the first S F G b o o k obsolete. Just look at the next page and see w h y All New Square Foot Gardening can help y o u w i t h your garden!

Ten Major New Improvements to the

Original Square Foot Garden Method

1. New Location—Close to the House

2. New Direction—Up, N o t D o w n

3. New Soil—Mel's M i x

4. New Depth—Only 6 Inches Deep

5. No Fertilizer—You Don't Need It

6. New Boxes—Above the Ground

7. New Aisles—Comfortable Width

8. New Grids—Prominent and Permanent

9. New Idea—Don't Waste Seeds

1 0 . New Opportunities—Tabletop Gardens

All New Square Foot Gardening offers ten n e w major i m p r o v e -

ments to the original S F G method. N o w , w i t h these improvements, anyone can be a successful gardener. Yes, it's true; this i m p r o v e d gardening m e t h o d makes gardening even easier than before. You're going to love every one of these improvements.

You will n o w be able to reduce the size of y o u r S F G so m u c h that y o u can locate it close to y o u r house for better care and more enjoy-m e n t . You'll never have to dig up y o u r existing soil a n y m o r e as y o u n o w build your n e w garden o n top o f it. N o more hard w o r k o r heavy-duty tools needed. All you'll need is 6 inches of a perfect soil mix from three c o m m o n ingredients available everywhere. T h i s m i x never needs c h a n g i n g a n d no fertilizer is ever needed using this natural, organic m e t h o d .

You'll use bottomless boxes m a d e f r o m c o m m o n lumber, have aisles that are w i d e e n o u g h to c o m f o r t a b l y m o v e a b o u t in, and each b o x will have a p e r m a n e n t grid for that u n i q u e S F G l o o k a n d use.

You'll use a m i n i m u m of seeds, so y o u won't have to b u y n e w packets every year. Best of all, some of y o u r boxes can have bottoms so y o u can move t h e m or place t h e m at tabletop or railing heights for easier care and unique locations.

28

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

1 New Location-Close to the House

Single-Row Gardens Are Too Big

O n e of the biggest problems of single-row and bed gardens is their size. They're big! T h e y take up so m u c h r o o m that they are usually located w a y o u t back. T h a t usually m e a n t it was o u t of sight, resulting in out of mind. It became less and less tended as the year w e n t on. But, guess what still grew? Weeds! A n d these pesky plants can q u i c k l y inundate and c h o k e o u t y o u r crops. W i t h o u t y o u r attention they'll take over the garden.

No More

All that has been changed for the better. S F G takes only 20 percent of the space of a single-row garden. T h a t means it can be located m u c h closer to the house where it will get m o r e attention and care, resulting in a better-looking garden and a m o r e usable harvest.

Split It Up for Best Location

In addition, y o u r garden doesn't have to be all in o n e place. Y o u no longer have to rototill or water o n e big garden area all at once. Y o u can split up y o u r S F G so that a b o x or t w o are located next to the kitchen door, while more boxes can be located elsewhere in the yard.

Small, individual garden boxes allow y o u m u c h m o r e flexibility in d e t e r m i n i n g location. N o w y o u r garden can be located near where y o u w a l k a n d sit, or where y o u can v i e w it f r o m the house. It can even be located in a patio or pool setting, where y o u relax. Your S F G

becomes a c o m p a n i o n rather than a burden.

The key to success of the All New

Square Foot Gardening method is

to avoid the poor qualities of local

soil by building up rather than

' down.

SFG, New and Improved

29

2 New Direction—Up, Not Down!

Build Up, Don't Dig Down

T h e s e c o n d i m p r o v e m e n t involves locating y o u r garden o n top o f y o u r existing soil rather than d i g g i n g down. M o s t of our readers c o m p l a i n a b o u t the terrible soil in their areas. In fact, as I lecture around the c o u n t r y a n d the w o r l d , the question I hear m o s t is,

" W h a t can we do a b o u t our local soil? It is so hard to w o r k a n d garden in." T h e original Square Foot G a r d e n i n g b o o k explained h o w to dig d o w n 6 inches and improve y o u r existing soil by adding equal amounts of really g o o d ingredients. Even t h o u g h y o u had to do that only the first year a n d it p r o d u c e d a fairly g o o d soil, people complained that it was still a lot of w o r k involving heavy tools and a great deal of effort. Everyone wants a simple, easy w a y to garden.

So, back to the drawing board.

T h i s g o t me to t h i n k i n g . C o u l d I find a better way? So, I asked myself, w h y do we really n e e d to i m p r o v e our existing soil if it's so bad? C o u l d n ' t we just start w i t h a perfect soil m i x a b o v e g r o u n d and eliminate the n e e d to ever d i g up or i m p r o v e our existing backyard soil? Y o u p r o b a b l y c o u l d if y o u r garden wasn't so b i g . . . b u t hey, S F G isn't big. In fact, it's one-fifth the size of conventional gardens.

So, if we c o u l d find a perfect soil m i x , there w o u l d be no m o r e digging a n d no m o r e tilling. Doesn't that m a k e a lot of sense? It became possible w i t h A l l N e w Square Foot G a r d e n i n g to have a very condensed n o - w o r k gardening m e t h o d and never have to be concerned again about w h a t k i n d of soil y o u have in your yard. W o w !

No Sweat

Just t h i n k of the implications if y o u forget a b o u t t r y i n g to i m p r o v e y o u r existing soil. It no longer matters w h a t k i n d of soil y o u have!

Use the time y o u save to start a c o m p o s t pile instead. If y o u start w i t h a perfect soil m i x , it will save a lot of t i m e a n d money. Y o u don't have to have y o u r soil analyzed a n y m o r e , a n d y o u don't have to have a pH test m a d e . . . y o u don't even have to k n o w w h a t pH is! Y o u don't have to b u y a n y heavy tools or go to the expense of having s o m e o n e rototill y o u r garden every single year. Y o u don't have to b u y special ingredients to loosen y o u r clay soil or solidify y o u r sandy soil. A n d m o s t importantly, y o u n o longer have t o do any hard w o r k . You'll have to find another w a y to get s o m e e x e r c i s e — s o g o m o w the l a w n . T h i s major advance i n h o m e gardening changes all of the rules of g a r d e n i n g a n d eliminates all of the hard w o r k a n d undesirable parts of single-row gardens.

Hey, gardening can be fun now!

30

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

So, if y o u are not g o i n g to use your existing soil but instead use a perfect soil mix, w h a t is it and h o w and where do y o u get it?

So, if y o u are not g o i n g to use your existing soil but instead use a perfect soil mix, w h a t is it and h o w and where do y o u get it?

3 New S o i l - M e l ' s Mix

What's In It?

T h e r e are three characteristics of a perfect g r o w i n g mix. First of all, it's lightweight, so it is easy to w o r k w i t h and easy for plants to grow in. N e x t , it is nutrient-rich a n d has all the minerals a n d trace elements that plants need w i t h o u t adding fertilizers. Finally, it holds moisture, yet drains well.

After m a n y experiments, I f o u n d that three of my favorite ingredients made the perfect m i x w h e n c o m b i n e d in equal portions:

•

h Peat Moss—Available at any garden center or supermarket.

l

• V3 Vermiculite—Buy the coarse grade in large 4-cubic-foot bags at any garden center or h o m e improvement store. P h o n e ahead to be sure it's available in that size.

•

h Blended C o m p o s t — I f y o u don't have your o w n c o m p o s t

l

operation, then b u y bags of c o m p o s t at the garden center to get started. T h e n , start your o w n c o m p o s t pile as soon as possible.

I'll explain some simple steps for foolproof composting later in the book. However, one w o r d of caution here: Y o u must have a blended compost, so don't b u y all the same kind. Pick o u t one bag of this and one bag of that. But, more about that in C h a p t e r 5.

What Do These Ingredients Do?

A l l three of these ingredients are n a t u r a l — n o t manufactured. T h e y all drain well, so there are no puddles to waterlog the plant roots; but they also h o l d large amounts of moisture so the plants will g r o w well.

T h i s mix is a pleasure to w o r k with, has a light fluffy texture, and smells good.

T h e first t w o ingredients have n o nutrients, b u t the l a s t —

compost-—is loaded w i t h all the nutrients a n d minerals that y o u c o u l d imagine. C o m p o s t is the m o s t i m p o r t a n t ingredient of the three, a n d m a k i n g y o u r o w n is g o o d for b o t h the e n v i r o n m e n t a n d the garden. T h i s is a b o u t as organic as y o u can get.

If y o u don't think this perfect soil m i x will w o r k in the garden, ask yourself, " W h a t do professional greenhouse growers use for growing crops on their benches? Do they go o u t a n d d i g up the fields for soil?" Of course not. Professional growers m i x up a perfect p o t t i n g soil f r o m several other ingredients a n d never use local outside soil.

SFG, New and Improved

31

W h e n y o u b u y a w i n d o w b o x at the store, w h a t do y o u fill it w i t h — y o u r yard soil? Of course not. Y o u b u y a bag of perfect potting soil. So w h y can't we do the same for our vegetable garden? W e l l , there are t w o reasons:

One, no one ever thought of i t — a n d two, it w o u l d be prohibi-tively expensive for the typical single-row garden that everyone has been using all of these years.

So, h o w can w e d o i t n o w ? Because S F G reduces the garden size d o w n to o n l y 20 percent (that's one-fifth as large), so it is n o w possible to consider using a perfect soil f r o m the very start. An additional reason is f o u n d in the next major improvement to Square Foot Gardening.

"Go deep," they said. "Don't bother," I said.

For years, experts said y o u r garden soil had to be improved at least 12 inches deep; some even said 18 inches. B u t my experiments were a

We owe much

proving otherwise, especially w h e n I used g o o d h o m e m a d e compost as one-third of the mix. I asked myself, "If six inches of perfect soil is

of our love of

g o o d enough for w i n d o w b o x e s and commercial greenhouse benches,

gardening to the

w h y not in backyard gardens?" A n d w h y dilute it by adding the m i x

simplicity of

to poor existing soil? W h y not use this perfect soil mix in your garden

SFG."

and forget all about the soil underneath? Well, the experts still p o o h -

—Manjajrom Oregon

p o o h e d the idea. B u t guess what? It works! Of course, everyone realizes that y o u couldn't do that in a huge, old-fashioned, single-row garden or even in raised bed gardening, b u t it can easily be done in a small-space Square Foot Garden!

C a n y o u really g r o w vegetables and flowers in only 6 inches of soil regardless of h o w g o o d it is? I've been d o i n g it for the last ten years in my display and h o m e garden, and it really works. Of course in my lectures w h e n I m e n t i o n the 6 inches, I can see the audience squirming in their seats, heads shaking and hands rising w i t h the usual question, " H o w can y o u g r o w l o n g carrots or potatoes in just 6 inches of soil?" It's a g o o d question, so we developed a special feature of S F G where y o u build a 1-foot x 1-foot b o x one foot tall for long root crops.

W h y o n l y 6 inches deep? W h y n o t b e safer a n d g o 1 2 inches deep? T h e main reason is there is no need to do so. In addition, it is m u c h cheaper, easier, and less work. Just t h i n k — i t is one-half of the cost and one-half of the w o r k , so w h y double the depth? B u t if you're still skeptical go ahead and use y o u r time and m o n e y to go 12 inches deep, but it's really not necessary.

32

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

T h e next question is, " H o w c o m e all of the experts have been so w r o n g for so long?" It is not that they were w r o n g , it is just everyone in the garden industry had trouble thinking outside the b o x or even questioning all the traditional methods. Stuck in a rut they were a n d in a single-row rut at that!

Here's another startling revelation I am g o i n g to m a k e . It is g o i n g to shock and dismay the gardening w o r l d , b u t y o u are g o i n g to love it.

5 No Fertilizer—You Don't Need It

Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g needs no fertilizer ever! H o w can that be?

After all, the g a r d e n i n g industry is built on using fertilizer. T h e original S F G b o o k explained all a b o u t f e r t i l i z e r — o r g a n i c a n d c h e m i c a l t y p e s — h o w t o measure a n d rate it; all a b o u t N P K a n d w h a t that means; a n d the list goes on a n d o n . T h a t w a s necessary because at that time we were just i m p r o v i n g our existing soils, a n d they still n e e d e d fertilizer. A l l the experts agreed. B u t my o w n experiments a n d t h o u g h t s a b o u t an all new out-of-the-box idea of n o t i m p r o v i n g y o u r existing soil b u t rather of starting w i t h a perfect soil m i x w a s w o r k i n g so well that I b e g a n to consider another n e w i d e a — t h a t y o u don't need t o add fertilizer. T h e c o m p o s t was p r o v i d i n g all of the nutrients a n d trace elements the plants needed. Besides, c o m p o s t w a s all-natural a n d couldn't b u r n o r h a r m the plants. T h e p r o o f o f the p u d d i n g w a s t o just l o o k a t my garden. It was o n e of the best gardens I have ever h a d a n d has r e m a i n e d so ever since.

T h i s was w h e n I was able to simplify my original book's formula for the perfect soil m i x to only three ingredients: / 3 each of peat

]

moss, vermiculite, and blended compost, and completely eliminate the use and expense of fertilizer. So m u c h simpler than the original one-page formula and w h a t a savings!

W e l l , again, all the experts p o o h - p o o h e d the idea a n d still d o , b u t guess what? It works! I haven't used a n y k i n d of fertilizer in my h o m e , display, or d e m o n s t r a t i o n gardens for m o r e t h a n ten years. If y o u go to o u r website at www.squarefootgardening.com,

you'll see h o w b o u n t i f u l a n d beautiful the gardens look. A n d this is n o t just g a r d e n i n g the first year b u t year after year after year.

Just t h i n k — n o more tilling, no more digging, and no more fertilizer! T h e o n l y t h i n g we ever add to our soil is a little m o r e c o m p o s t . Is this great or what?

N o w all we need is some w a y to h o l d or contain our aboveground 6 inches of perfect soil mix. So, h o w about a box?

SFG, New and Improved

33

6 New Boxes-Above the Ground

I think h a v i n g y o u r garden c o n t a i n e d in a b o x adds u n i f o r m i t y and structure, n o t o n l y to y o u r garden but to y o u r life. O n c e limits are placed on almost a n y t h i n g , y o u will find it m u c h easier to take care of a n d therefore y o u will be m o r e comfortable w i t h it and enjoy it more.

T h e basic 4 x4-foot bottomless boxes are easy to build out of c o m m o n lumber, bricks, blocks, or even stone. These small boxes, filled with the perfect soil mix, will grow five times as m u c h as the same space in a single-row garden. So, y o u don't need m a n y of the boxes. T h e r e are no weeds to hoe. No existing soil to till. W h y , once your boxes are built and your perfect soil is added, there is virtually no w o r k at all.

If y o u place the b o x on top of the existing g r o u n d , y o u eliminate all of the usual gardening concerns and w o r k of i m p r o v i n g y o u r existing soil. It also eliminates the great deal of gardening k n o w -

ledge that y o u w o u l d need if y o u were g o i n g to be concerned w i t h using y o u r existing soil. You'll see as we go along that there are so many advantages of not using y o u r existing soil. You'll w o n d e r w h y Once you build the basic 4v.4 SFG

no one ever t h o u g h t of it before. T h e 4 x4-foot boxes have been box with rotated corners, add six

chosen because it's a size y o u can w a l k a r o u n d and easily reach into inches of Mel's Mix, and add the

to tend y o u r plants; this eliminates the need for stepping on the square foot grid. Now, you're ready

growing soil and p a c k i n g it d o w n , w h i c h then eliminates the need to plant.

34

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

to d i g or loosen it. See h o w everything in S F G is interrelated a n d w o r k s so well together?

For bigger gardens, y o u can always p u t some of the boxes end to end to create a 4 x 8-foot or a 4 x 12-foot garden b o x that y o u will still be able to w a l k around, yet reach in. If y o u r b o x is located next to a wall, fence, or building, keep the boxes only t w o feet w i d e so y o u can reach all the w a y to the back. T h e y can be any length. Boxes can be made from any type of w o o d . T h e best is free w o o d that is found at a construction site. Just ask the foreman of the project if y o u can have the scrap 2 x 6 - i n c h boards. If y o u are g o i n g to b u y y o u r lumber, boxes can be m a d e f r o m pine or fir for the least cost, or cedar or r e d w o o d for longer lasting use. If y o u decide to treat or paint the w o o d , be careful not to paint inside the boxes where the Mel's M i x comes into contact w i t h the w o o d ; y o u don't w a n t anything harmful to leach into the soil. I do not r e c o m m e n d using pretreated w o o d for the same reason.

7 New Aisles-Comfortable Width

T h e w i d t h of y o u r aisles is another i m p r o v e m e n t I have m a d e for the A l l N e w Square Foot G a r d e n i n g m e t h o d . T h i s is more important for comfort, safety, and looks, than for efficiency. If y o u notice the garden on the cover of the original Square Foot Gardeningbook, there were no boxes and the aisles were 1 x 12-inch boards separating the 4 x4-foot areas. I designed it that w a y to be the most space-efficient b u t , as s o m e o n e o n c e said, " T h i s is o n e t i m e w h e n M e l was t o o efficient!" B u t the w o o d was free, so hey, can y o u blame me?

Straight and Narrow

T h e 12-inch wide board was difficult to maneuver o n , and y o u had to keep a pretty g o o d balance to stay upright. I f o u n d that the average gardener needs t o have m o r e r o o m t o m o v e a b o u t o n t h a n those 12 inches. In addition, y o u couldn't get close to each 4 x 4 - f o o t p l a n t i n g area if y o u w a n t e d to use a wheelbarrow, garden cart, or harvest basket. C a n y o u just picture t w o people w o r k i n g i n that garden w i t h 12-inch wide paths, and one says to the other, "Excuse m e , I need to get through." C a n y o u imagine the answer to that?

The Ideal Width

So w h a t is the ideal aisle width? T w o feet is still a little tight, so I r e c o m m e n d a m i n i m u m of three feet between your boxes. It turned o u t that for accessibility, kneeling, working, and harvesting, the ideal distance was 3 or even 4 feet b e t w e e n boxes. In fact, if y o u r garden has several boxes, y o u can vary the aisles. Play a r o u n d w i t h s o m e ideas on p a p e r — t h e n , once your boxes are built (and before y o u fill

SFG, New and Improved

35

them w i t h soil, I should add), y o u can m o v e t h e m about until y o u get them just right. T h i n k of it as arranging furniture in your yard.

Dress It Up

T h e aisle space between your boxes can be left in grass or covered with any type of g r o u n d cover. In our TV show, we tried all sorts of things to create some very interesting looking aisles. At other times, we just removed any weeds or grass, then laid d o w n w e e d cloth and covered it w i t h materials that were comfortable for walking on such as crushed stone, compost, or ground bark.

Forget what the experts have

been telling us for years, fill youi

boxes with just 6 inches of Mel's

Mix, add a grid, and start plant-

ing! You won't be sorry; in fact,

you'll be amazed at the results.

8 New Grids Prominent and Permanent

W h e n I wrote the first b o o k on Square Foot G a r d e n i n g more than twenty-five years ago, I advocated laying out a 12 x 12-inch grid for the garden. T h e n , in my travels around the country, I heard a lot of people say, " O h , I do Square Foot Gardening," or "I have a Square Foot Garden." B u t w h e n I w e n t to see them, the size was right but they had no grid!

In our introductory film, we show the people in our class h o w a 4 x4-foot garden looks w i t h o u t a grid and ask them, " H o w m a n y plants could y o u plant there? H o w m a n y different crops?" T h e y draw a blank because it looks like a small area that isn't g o i n g to contain very m u c h . As soon as we lay d o w n the grid, they suddenly light up and say, "Aha! I see! Sixteen spaces, so it'll take sixteen different crops!

Later, as soon as one square is harvested, I can add a trowel full of compost and replant that square foot with a different crop w i t h o u t disturbing anything else around it." Bingo!They see the light.

36

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

T h e r e are many, m a n y interrelated reasons for the "different crop in every Square Foot" rule, and y o u will see and understand these as we go along. T h e y deal with nutrients used, limiting over-ambitious planting, staggered harvests, w e e d and pest control, beauty of the garden, c o m p a n i o n planting, simplification of crop rotation, cutting p l a n t i n g time in half, and m a n y m o r e factors that result in a very unusual and innovative gardening system. W h e n y o u have no grid, your garden has no character. If you're having visitors over, they may not even notice your garden if it's laid out in plain beds. But if it's a Square Foot Garden with very prominent and visible grids, they will say, "Hey, what's that in your yard? It looks great!"

Grid Materials

In the past, whenever I used string or twine as a grid, it eventually got dirty, rotted, and finally broke. In addition, y o u had to drive in nails to tie the string to, and it just never looked good. I talked with many others w h o had the same bad experience so I experimented with all kinds of different materials for m a k i n g grids. If I c o u l d condense thirty years of experience into my current advice, it w o u l d b e — d o n ' t use string or any other floppy material. A firm, rigid, prominent, and visual grid permanently laid on every one of your boxes will make all the difference in the world as others see it but mostly in h o w y o u use and enjoy your garden.

W i t h a very visible grid, your garden takes on a unique character.

It will not only look spectacular, but you'll be able to immediately visualize your planting squares. Without a grid, your garden is not a Square Foot Garden.

SFG, New and Improved

9 New Idea Don't Waste Seeds

New Seed Planting Idea

W h e n I first started gardening, I found the traditional method of p o u r i n g o u t an entire packet of seeds along a single row was so wasteful that I couldn't believe that's the w a y we've always done it.

Didn't the pioneers have to carry their o w n seeds all the w a y across the country? T h e y couldn't order a new batch over the Internet from a seed c o m p a n y every year, could they? Didn't they teach everyone to be frugal and not wasteful? W h y w o u l d a n y o n e tell us to waste a w h o l e packet of seeds a l o n g a long, lonely, single row, especially k n o w i n g that we w o u l d have to go back and thin out 95 percent of the sprouted plants in order to leave only one plant every few inches.

When your seeds sprout from

D i d no one ever think, "Let's just plant a few seeds every 3, 4, or 6

the pinch of seeds you planted in

inches?" I guess it took someone outside of the garden industry to your squares, snip out all but

think of it.

one of them.

38

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

In the first S F G b o o k , I advocated single seed planting at the proper spacing for that particular plant, b u t m a n y people f o u n d it tedious and even difficult, especially w i t h small, unusually shaped seeds. Besides, as someone once teased me and said, "If a packet of leaf lettuce contains one thousand seeds and I only plant four in each square foot, h o w o l d will I be before it is time to b u y a n o t h e r packet?" She'll have to leave her seeds in her will!

So back to the drawing board I went. H o w about just a few seeds in each h o l e — j u s t a pinch of seeds? After testing this idea with m a n y people and c h e c k i n g their dexterity and ability to pick up just a pinch (two or three seeds), this seemed to be the answer.

A Snip, Not a Tug

But I was against thinning—that's w h e n y o u pull out all the seedlings except the one plant y o u w a n t to grow to maturity. T h i n n i n g is a lot The best feature of the All New

Square Foot Gardening method

is that it makes gardening

accessible to everyone.

SFG, New and Improved

39

of w o r k and also seems to disturb the roots of the r e m a i n i n g plant, and that's n o t g o o d . B u t then I t h o u g h t of an absolutely perfect solution. If y o u plant just a f e w s e e d s — a p i n c h - — i n each hole a n d two or three seedlings c o m e u p , y o u just take a pair of scissors a n d snip off all but the strongest one. T h a t eliminates any disturbance of the plant y o u w a n t to keep, and you're not tempted to replant the others. T h e only thing y o u need to do is just muster the courage to make that initial snip and it's all over.

So n o w w e ' v e been able to i m p r o v e the single-seed p l a n t i n g and, a t the s a m e t i m e , e n d u p w i t h o n e s t r o n g p l a n t i n e a c h location, w h i c h i s just w h a t w e w a n t e d . A t the same t i m e we're not wasting a lot of seeds. After p l a n t i n g that square foot, p u t the packet in safe storage, a n d if stored properly that packet will be g o o d next year, a n d the year after, a n d the year after. M a n y seeds last up to five years if stored properly. (So, h o w c o m e no o n e ever told us that before?)

10. New Opportunities Tabletop Gardens

Make Them Portable

N o w that w e n o longer n e e d t o i m p r o v e our existing s o i l — a n d S F G takes up o n l y 20 percent of the space for 100 percent of the h a r v e s t — a n d we need o n l y 6 inches of lightweight soil m i x , we can build a 4 x 4 - f o o t b o x , a n d a d d a p l y w o o d b o t t o m drilled w i t h drainage holes. T h i s means y o u can carry it to any location y o u want, even m o v i n g it to suit weather, climate, an event, a situation, or even a person's needs, abilities, or disabilities. If the size or weight seems too m u c h for y o u to handle, think about using a 3 x 3-foot, a 2 x 2-foot, or even a 2 x 4-foot b o x for ease in m o v i n g .

James, Bring Out the Good Boxes

Smaller sized S F G boxes can b e c o m e w o n d e r f u l patio boxes, and it's even possible to plant several so there is always o n e or t w o w i t h flowers in full b l o o m or salad crops ready for harvest. T h e rest can be kept s o m e w h e r e less visible. W i t h a system of rotation, there will always be a few garden boxes ready to bring o u t to s h o w off. There's n o t h i n g like the visual i m p a c t of a beautifully planted box filled w i t h vegetables, flowers, and/or herbs. If you're giving a talk or d o i n g a presentation on g a r d e n i n g , the "seeing is believing" t e c h n i q u e will c i n c h y o u r talk. A n d just t h i n k , y o u won't have t o answer the usual q u e s t i o n a b o u t S F G , like " H o w on earth can y o u g r o w a g a r d e n in o n l y 6 inches of soil?" O r ,

" H o w can y o u g r o w w i t h o u t fertilizer?" N o w , y o u just p o i n t and smile!

-K)

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

R E A S O N S TO MOVE YOOR PORTABLE SFG BOX

WEATHER-To protect it from:

EVENTS-Move it to:

• Frost

• Enhance or decorate for a poolside party or barbeque

• Thundershowers

• Behind the garage for a start-up nursery

• Hurricanes

• Hail

SITUATIONS-Place the box:

• Snow

• On a tabletop for a sit-down gardener

• Wind

• In the garage if you're expecting extreme weather

• Heavy rain

• On the deck to clear the yard for a football game

• Intense sun

PERSONS-You can:

CLIMATE-Move your SFG box for:

• Take it to Grandma's for a birthday gift

• More shade for a spring crop as the weather gets hotter

• Take it to school for show-and-tell

• More sun in early spring

• Take it to class for teaching SFG

• More shade in summertime in desert areas

• Take it to school for the science fair

Best of All

So there y o u have i t — t h e ten n e w major i m p r o v e m e n t s to the Square Foot G a r d e n i n g m e t h o d . Each one makes the entire system more productive, the w o r k m u c h easier, and the cost of gardening lower. At the same time, the beginner finds gardening m u c h easier to understand.

I think Square Foot Gardening's best feature is that it n o w makes gardening available to just a b o u t a n y o n e y o u can think of, regardless of their age, circumstance, location, ability, or d i s a b i l i t y —

anyone, anywhere, can now garden using the All N e w Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g m e t h o d .

Plan Your Garden

This chapter is going to talk about three basic components of Square Foot Gardening.

• Size

• Location

• Design

Size

Your garden w i l l be laid o u t in square or

rectangular boxes separated by w a l k i n g aisles.

B u i l d y o u r boxes f r o m materials like w o o d ,

bricks, or b l o c k s . If y o u don't like the idea of

c o m m o n w o o d , w h i c h w i l l e v e n t u a l l y rot o r be eaten by termites, use a m o r e expensive

w o o d like cedar o r r e d w o o d . Y o u can even

use some o f the m a n m a d e c o m p o s i t e " w o o d "

or recycled plastic or v i n y l . T h e w o o d I like

best is free w o o d . Y o u can usually get it f r o m any c o n s t r u c t i o n site, b u t always ask the

foreman first.

If y o u decide to use lumber, you'll be h a p p y to k n o w the advantage of 4 x 4 gardens is that all lumber comes in 8-foot lengths.

Most h o m e improvement centers will cut it in half for y o u at little or 10 cost. Your boxes can be m a d e from just about any material except treated w o o d because the chemicals used to treat the w o o d are not something y o u w a n t leaching into your garden.

How Much Is Enough?

If you're figuring a S F G for an adult, remember that:

1. O n e 4 x 4 Square Foot Garden box (equal to 16 square feet) will supply e n o u g h produce to make a salad for one person every day of the growing season.

2 . O n e more 4 x 4 b o x will supply the daily supper vegetables for that person.

42

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

3. Just one more 4 x 4 box will supply that person with extra of everything for preserving, special crops, showing off, or

giving away.

So, each adult needs one, t w o , o r three large boxes o f 4 x 4 , d e p e n d i n g o n h o w m u c h they w a n t . I n square feet, that i s 1 6 , 3 2 , or 48 square feet.

If you're figuring a S F G for a child, remember that:

1. O n e 3 x 3 Square Foot Garden box (equal to 9 square feet) will supply enough produce to make a salad for one child every day of the growing season.

2 . O n e more 3 x 3 box will supply supper vegetables for that child every day.

3 . Just o n e m o r e 3 x 3 b o x will supply the child w i t h extra o f everything for show-and-tell or science projects at school,

special crops, s h o w i n g off, or giving away. So, each child needs one, t w o , or three small boxes of 3 x 3 , d e p e n d i n g on h o w m u c h they will eat. In square feet, that's 9, 1 8 , or 2 7 square feet.

Suggestion: Since the kids will grow into teenagers, y o u m a y just w a n t to make everyone's box a 4 x 4 . On the other hand, different sizes make the garden look interesting and more personable. T h e 3 x 3 can later on be stacked on top of a 4 x 4 to start a pyramid g a r d e n — b u t more about designing your garden later.

Your Family-Your Garden

A c c o r d i n g to surveys of homeowners, the average conventional single-row garden measures 20 feet wide by 35 feet long, w h i c h equals 7 0 0 square feet. To grow the same a m o u n t , a Square Foot G a r d e n will need only 20 percent or one-fifth of that growing space to equal 1 4 0 square feet. That's quite a difference isn't it?

Plan Your Garden

43

YOUR FAMILY YOUR GARDEN

Number of Boxes

Salad

Supper

Extra

Total

or Square Feet

Mom

Dad

Grandpa or Grandma

Brother

Sister

Pets*

Other

*Well, some dogs eat veggies and cats love catnip.

You can enter the number of boxes-big for adults, small for kids—

or square feet.

Down to Size

W h e n e v e r I'm giving a lecture I like to illustrate the difference between a conventional garden and a Square Foot Garden. I'll w a l k d o w n the middle of whatever r o o m we're in

and, standing in the center, stretch o u t my arms

sideways, as I say, "If this w h o l e r o o m were our garden, w h e n y o u switch to Square Foot

Gardening, you'll no longer need everything on

this side." T h a t cuts the r o o m in half. T h e n I turn to the side that remains, cut it in half with

my arms again, and say, "Everything on that

side we don't need." T h a t cuts that half in half

again. A n d then I add, "That's still t o o m u c h room. We can still cut d o w n this remaining

corner even m o r e so we end up w i t h o n l y

20 percent of the total r o o m . We can g r o w as

m u c h in this size of a Square Foot G a r d e n as we

previously could in this entire r o o m . "

Try it in the r o o m you're in right n o w and see

if y o u aren't impressed. You suddenly begin to

think of the reduced a m o u n t of work, equip-

ment, supplies, and fencing. T h e n y o u begin to see m a n y of the advantages of being able to locate the garden where y o u wish and all the possibilities in your yard. Visualizing the great difference of space needed for a Square Foot G a r d e n is really the first step in learning and appreciating the entire system. T h e n y o u can begin to take advantage of all the other attributes y o u will discover w i t h S F G .

44

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

All That in One Box

H o w m u c h salad could y o u pick every day from this little garden?

More than you can imagine. So as an illustration, I've listed below examples of what y o u can harvest from just one 4 x 4 b o x in one spring season:

Start Small

O n c e y o u decide on the final size and layout of your garden, keep in m i n d y o u don't have to build the entire garden right at the start. Try a three-phase plan instead.

If y o u build and plant just one-third of y o u r ultimate garden boxes and g r o w for o n e s e a s o n — f o r example, the spring s e a s o n —

y o u can then see h o w m u c h you'll harvest and see if you've correctly judged the a m o u n t y o u really need. T h e n y o u can go into phase two, or the s u m m e r crop, and build more boxes according to your layout or master plan. At the end of the s u m m e r crop, m o v e on to phase three, b u i l d i n g m o r e boxes if y o u still need t h e m , to prepare for p l a n t i n g a fall crop.

Plan Your Garden

45

Yes, it's okay to lay o u t the w h o l e area and to design it for the ultimate, depending on h o w big your family is and h o w m u c h y o u think y o u w a n t to harvest. Just don't do everything the first season.

I've seen so m a n y people start out too ambitiously, and they b e c o m e o v e r w h e l m e d because they underestimate h o w m u c h they can actually g r o w in such a small area. T h e i r gardens are actually larger than they need so there is more to take care o f — a n d all while they're learning a n e w system. Take it easy and start small.

If y o u have a single-row garden and don't really w a n t to give it up yet, I suggest t a k i n g o n e small corner of y o u r old-fashioned garden and planting it in just o n e or t w o 4 x 4 boxes, m i x the correct soil (don't just shovel y o u r existing soil into the boxes no matter h o w g o o d y o u t h i n k it is), p u t d o w n the grid, a n d try p l a n t i n g this way.

N e x t year, I'll bet you'll p r o b a b l y be ready to convert y o u r entire garden into a S F G .

Overall Size of the Boxes

O n c e y o u decide on the overall size and n u m b e r of boxes, the next step is to determine the dimension of the aisles. We'll cover this in more detail later, b u t for n o w y o u can figure on a 3-foot aisle

"Gardening has

between all 4-foot boxes. Y o u could also decide n o w if y o u w a n t to

always seemed too

join several boxes together end to end to create a rectangular b o x of

overwhelming.

4 x 8, or 4 x 1 2 . T h i s will save a lot of yard space but y o u m a y not like

Now with your

the look or y o u m a y find walking around a l o n g box inconvenient. I

method, I cant

w o u l d never m a k e a b o x longer than 16 feet or you'll end up trying to cross it in the middle and t h e n — w h o o p s ! — t h e r e y o u are, stepping

wait to start."

in your garden. I hope no one saw you! If y o u are going to be putting

—Alejiendrafrom

some boxes against a fence or wall and can't w a l k all around to reach

Venezuela

in, those boxes should be only 2 feet wide. Everyone wants to make them 3 feet wide (I will never k n o w w h y ) but then they always c o m e back and complain it was too w i d e because they couldn't reach in that far.

Don't Forget the Aisles

T h e w h o l e idea of Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g is to w a l k a r o u n d y o u r garden boxes a n d reach in to tend y o u r plants. T h i s way, the soil never gets packed d o w n and y o u eliminate digging it up to loosen it again. In fact, the only tool y o u really need once y o u fill your boxes w i t h Mel's M i x is a small h a n d trowel. (It doesn't have to be the strong, expensive k i n d f r o m S w e d e n . T h e o n e dollar variety w o r k s just fine and can last a lifetime.)

So h o w wide should your aisles be? It depends a lot on h o w m u c h room y o u have and w h a t kind of a look y o u w a n t for your garden. If you're going to have m a n y b o x e s — r e m e m b e r , we suggest y o u begin using only a small n u m b e r because y o u can always add more l a t e r —

46

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

U.I I I I I I

THINK TWICE

Your aisles should be 3 feet wide.

I would caution against 2-foot

wide aisles because once the

plants grow, some cascade over

the sides or get bushy. Those

2-foot aisles begin to shrink

down to maybe just 18 or even

12 inches. At the beginning, when

nothing is planted or growing, it's

hard to imagine what it will look

like in midsummer with every-

thing growing like crazy and

taking up a lot more space. Pretty

soon you're sorry that you made

the aisle so narrow. But by then,

it's too late to move the boxes.

Since SFG takes up so little room,

why crowd all your boxes

together? The more spacious

your All New Square Foot Garden

is, the more time you are likely

to spend there enjoying it.

y o u m a y w a n t to have, for example, a center aisle that is 4 feet wide so y o u can easily get in with a garden cart or wheelbarrow, or so several people can walk d o w n the aisle at once. (Hey, h o w about a garden party or a wedding?)

Plan Your Garden

47

Draw It Up

O n c e y o u get a rough idea of h o w m u c h space you'll need, make a quick sketch more or less to scale. Y o u don't need graph paper (unless you're a designer or w a n t to use it); just draw the 3-foot aisles slightly smaller than the 4-foot boxes. N o w you're ready to tour y o u r property l o o k i n g for nice o p e n areas near the house. Later in this chapter we'll discuss design in more detail.

Location

There are five major things to l o o k for w h e n touring your property for a S F G location. Use these as a test for the area you're considering for your All N e w Square Foot Garden. (Remember, convenience is king so make sure y o u follow Rule 1.)

1. Place it close to the house for convenience.

2. Pick an area that gets six to eight hours of sunshine daily.

3. Stay clear of trees and shrubs where roots and shade m a y interfere.

4. T h e area should not puddle after a heavy rain.

5. T h e existing soil is not really important, since y o u won't be using it.

1. Close to the House

W i t h the A l l N e w Square Foot G a r d e n i n g M e t h o d , y o u have so many more places to p u t your garden than ever before.

Keep in m i n d foot traffic and sites where y o u will often notice and enjoy y o u r garden. If your S F G is near traffic paths, you'll w a l k past the garden more often, hence take better care of it ( r e m e m b e r —

no need to c h a n g e into g a r d e n i n g clothes, or run a n d get s o m e tools). T h i s means it will always l o o k nice and the end result will be that you'll enjoy it more as will every other m e m b e r of the family.

(Chapter 10 covers different locations like hillsides or heavily w o o d e d areas.)

I Can See Clearly Now

W h e n y o u think about observing y o u r garden, consider where y o u can frequently see it—especially from inside the house. W h a t r o o m are y o u in the most? C a n y o u see the garden from there? T h e reason is not only for your pleasure b u t for protection. If it is close, y o u will see problems (like deer, wilting plants, a neighbor's d o g or cat) w h e n they begin rather than hours later after all the damage is done.

Remember the Square Foot G a r d e n w a y is to treat your plants just like y o u treat y o u r children o r grandchildren, a n d y o u k n o w y o u

48

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

w o u l d be glancing out the w i n d o w at them. I believe that every plant out there is constantly seeking your attention by saying, " L o o k at m e , look at my n e w blossom, look h o w big I'm getting." Isn't that just like children?

P l a c e m e n t o f y o u r Square F o o t G a r d e n opens u p s o m a n y doors to the w a y y o u care for, enjoy, appreciate, a n d harvest it.

Plus you'll s h o w it off m o r e often a n d get the w h o l e family involved. It's even possible to split up y o u r garden and place s o m e of y o u r boxes in different locations for perhaps a different visual effect or a different purpose.

NURSERY RHYME?

One for the blackbird.

One for the mouse.

One for the rabbit.

And one for the house.

So they're suggesting you plant

four times as much as what you

really want or need. Well, that's

cute, but what a waste of

resources and energy.

2. Sunlight

T h e next t h i n g to consider in selecting a location is sunlight.

G r o w i n g plants need sunlight. H o w m u c h they need depends on the type of plant. In general, large-flowering or fruiting plants need a l o t — a t least eight hours a day. These types of plants are referred to as a "summer crop" or "warm-weather plants" and include most of the

Plan Your Garden

49

favorite things that people grow, such as tomatoes, peppers, squash, beans, and sunflowers.

In d e t e r m i n i n g the a m o u n t of sunlight an area receives, keep in m i n d that it changes t h r o u g h o u t the year w i t h the seasons. In early spring and again in late fall the sun is lower in the sky than in the summertime. A n d of course, there are not as m a n y hours of light in the day in the spring and fall as there are in the summer.

If You Only Have Shade

If y o u have shady c o n d i t i o n s a n d no other place to locate y o u r garden, y o u can still have a thriving garden but you'll have a limited selection of crops to grow. So, obviously, you'd stay away from the tomatoes, peppers, and squash and plant the root and leaf crops like radishes, spinach, and lettuce. Of course, there are m a n y flowers and herbs that love shade, so check w i t h your local nursery if y o u are in this situation.

Too Much Sun

Sometimes y o u m i g h t have a location that gets full sun all day long, C C I

from sunup to s u n d o w n . T h a t w o u l d actually be too m u c h for some

want to

of the cool weather a n d leafy crops, as well as m a n y flowers. Of

convert my entire

course, w i t h a big, h u g e garden there's n o t m u c h y o u can d o . B u t

garden to your

w i t h a Square F o o t G a r d e n , it's v e r y easy to provide shade by

method."

building a simple s u p p o r t and covering the 4 x 4 b o x w i t h s o m e

—Guy from Utah

shade cloth. T h a t ' s all covered in C h a p t e r 4.

3. Avoid Trees and Shrubs

W h e n choosing y o u r S F G location, stay clear of trees and shrubs for two reasons. T h e first is shade as we just discussed. Second, if they sense a well-watered perfect soil nearby, these roots will c o m e straight as an arrow into your soil. If that's the only location y o u have, then there is a w a y to counteract that situation. Put a p l y w o o d b o t t o m on your boxes and raise t h e m up off the ground. Y o u can raise t h e m up by just putting a brick under each corner and one in the center. Or y o u can use a cement block, or even t w o blocks and build little piers and have it as a garden y o u sit d o w n beside to harvest. T h e n , of course, the tree's roots won't even k n o w that the garden is there. T h i s is a nice w a y to have a shade garden right under a tree along w i t h a bench or a few lawn chairs.

K e e p in m i n d that shrubs are just as bad as trees as far as providing shade and root interference. M o s t shrubs are more shallow-rooted than trees. K e e p in m i n d , too, that as trees and shrubs grow, their shade will increasingly cover a larger area.

50

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

4. No Puddles, Please

Roots will drown in accumulated and stagnant water, so y o u don't want to locate your S F G in an area that holds water after a rain. T h e materials in Mel's M i x , t h o u g h they drain well and h o l d a lot of moisture, will soak up all the water in a standing p u d d l e and y o u r plant roots will be h a r m e d . Areas that p u d d l e also promise m u d in the aisles, w h i c h makes gardening less fun.

If y o u have no other place and can't drain the area, then of course y o u c o u l d fill in the l o w area w i t h sand to raise y o u r b o x slightly and/or y o u c o u l d again p u t a b o t t o m on it a n d raise it up w i t h stones, bricks, cinder blocks, or something similar.

5. Existing Soil Who Cares?

W h e n you're choosing a location, it doesn't really matter about the condition of your existing soil. M a n y of the other gardening books tell y o u h o w to go around the yard and dig test holes and see w h a t kind of soil y o u have. Sometimes you're even supposed to make a i i i i i i i i i -

d ^ Once you choose the spot, you'll

love Square Foot Gardening for

so many reasons. It's simple and

easy to understand. It's quick

and practical to do. It has every

benefit you can think of. It fits

anywhere in an existing or

planned landscape; anyone can

do it regardless of abilities. It

costs very little. It requires few

tools and equipment. And the

best part of all is that you don't

have to be an expert gardener!!

Plan Your Garden

51

percolation test, in w h i c h y o u have to dig a hole, fill it w i t h water, see h o w l o n g i t takes t o drain, blah, blah, blah . . . . O r , h o w a b o u t all the unnecessary advice on h o w to take a soil test and w h a t the results mean? Forget a b o u t all that now. Y o u don't have to k n o w a b o u t it because we're not going to use y o u r existing soil. We're going to build bottomless boxes above the ground. Y o u can even p u t your boxes on the pavement or a patio and it won't make any difference.

The Envelope, Please

T h e best location is where y o u can see y o u r garden more often from more directions. T h i n g s like sunlight and avoiding trees and shrubs are merely precautions to help make y o u r garden more successful. So walk around your yard and think about the best place to locate and enjoy your garden.

Design

N o w that you've determined h o w m a n y boxes you'll have and strolled around y o u r yard to find the best spot(s), it's time to t h i n k a b o u t design. Y o u can lay o u t y o u r boxes so they turn corners, even intersect each other, b u t keep in m i n d traffic a n d w a l k i n g around.

Don't make dead ends or narrow places. Keep 3- or 4-foot aisles, and leave bigger areas for chairs, benches, and entranceways. Here is a fun idea: explain to the entire family the basic size a n d layout then let each m e m b e r d r a w up ideas and plans. M a y b e everyone c o u l d have an area to design, b u i l d , a n d plant. W o u l d n ' t that be a great family project? T h e n , take a picture a n d send it to me so we can share all kinds of designs w i t h others.

Line Them Up

You can probably guess that, being a former army officer, I am going to w a n t all the boxes lined up neatly a n d precisely, even perhaps having t h e m in a row (oh, w h a t an unfortunate w o r d ) — e x c u s e m e —

in a line. I m i g h t w a n t the entire area to be a square or at the v e r y least a rectangle . . but that's just me. H o w about y o u — d o y o u w a n t a U-shape or an L-shape? Do whatever appeals to you.

Gardens Aren't Just for Yards Anymore

Here's another i d e a — n o matter the season, y o u can build a S F G b o x with a p l y w o o d b o t t o m and place it on your patio or picnic tabletop near your back door. Y o u m a y w a n t to use smaller S F G boxes on the patio or deck such as 2 x 2 or 2 x 4.

52

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Be Creative

Y o u don't have to be a landscape architect to measure and draw up w h a t y o u imagine. T h e design is just as important as the size. You're going to be spending a lot of your time in your S F G — n o t w o r k i n g or weeding, but just enjoying and relaxing. Be sure to m a k e r o o m for some chairs, a bench, a water fountain, or a bird bath. O n e of the advantages of a Square Foot G a r d e n is that y o u have options in h o w y o u p u t it together so that it's perfect for y o u .

Seeing a picture is so helpful. If y o u w a n t to see w h a t others have d o n e i n their y a r d w i t h Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g , g o t o

www.squarefootgardening.com a n d click on " N e i g h b o r h o o d Gardens." Everyone likes to see w h a t others have done, so take the garden tour and see w h i c h one y o u like the best. A n d then let your imagination help y o u create the Square Foot G a r d e n that is perfect for y o u .

If y o u like to build things, y o u are g o i n g to love this chapter. A Square Foot G a r d e n can be a lot like w o r k i n g w i t h Erector® sets, Lincoln Logs®, or Legos®. Since S F G grows so m u c h in so little space and is m a d e w i t h readily available materials, the basic b o x projects outlined in this chapter won't take all y o u r time, space, or money.

Why Boxes?

Just as a reminder, there are several reasons we build boxes for our Square Foot Gardens.

1. Looks neat and tidy.

2. Organizes and simplifies your gardening chores.

3. Holds a special soil mix aboveground.

4. It's easy to add protective features.

If your garden is boxed in, it has already-established limits for y o u .

«

A n d if y o u m a k e sure to add a grid, it establishes not only a pattern

SFG more

but a formula for success.

than a hobby,

Boxes also hold y o u r perfect soil m i x so that it doesn't spill o u t or

it's a movement."

wash away in a heavy rainstorm. W h e n garden beds have no borders between p l a n t - g r o w i n g soil a n d w a l k w a y s , there's a greater chance

—Ross from

that s o m e o n e will step into the g r o w i n g s o i l — a b i g n o - n o for this

South Carolina

S F G method.

Let's start w i t h the basic 4 x 4 S F G box. Examples of b o x materials that can be used include:

• Natural w o o d

• M a n m a d e w o o d

• Recycled plastic

• V i n y l

• Or any other m a n m a d e material available in lumber sizes E709X-K01-NHXD-QQDF-F8

• 1 x 6-inch lumber for the most economical, low traffic garden; or

• 2 x 6-inch lumber for sturdier boxes or heavy traffic garden areas.

Building Boxes and Structures

55

5 6

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Stack your lumber like steps.

Once you drill the top piece,

slide the board back to expose

the next one.

A l l types o f l u m b e r c o m e in 8-foot lengths and multiples of 2 feet thereafter. Since most S F G s will be 4 x 4 feet, ask the l u m b e r c o m p a n y to cut y o u r 8-foot-long w o o d in half w h e n y o u b u y it.

T h e y usually do this for free. T h e n it's easier to take h o m e , quicker to assemble, and eliminates any need for sawing. All types of w o o d can be used: pine, fir, cedar, or even redwood (which is more expensive but longer-lasting), but don't use treated lumber.

Rotate Corners

W h e n constructing your S F G box, cut all four

My idea of the best kind of wood

pieces of y o u r w o o d sides to the same length,

is free wood. Go to any construction site,

and then rotate the corners to ensure y o u end up

tell the foreman you are building a

with a square box. If y o u w a n t a different l o o k

Square Foot Garden, and ask if they

than the rotated corners, measure the thickness

have any scrap lumber. Chances are they

of the lumber and subtract that from t w o of the

will be throwing out just what you need.

sides and add it to the other t w o sides so y o u

They may even cut it for you if you ask

still end up w i t h a square box. It is not critical

nicely. Then your box is free.

that your garden box be exactly 48 inches either

inside or outside, but it should be square so each

square foot planting area is the same size.

A t t a c h your box w i t h coarse-thread deck screws that are twice as l o n g as the thickness of the lumber. Use three screws per corner. Pre-drill y o u r holes in the first piece of the t w o pieces you're connecting; the threads will e m b e d themselves into the second.

Building Boxes and Structures

5 7

This is an example of corner

construction; the side of one board

is attached to the end of another,

with three deck screws.

Construction Details

W o r k on a hard s u r f a c e — l i k e a driveway, p a v e m e n t , or s i d e w a l k —

and keep y o u r frame flat so it won't end up c r o o k e d or twisted.

W h e n y o u r frame is all screwed together, carry it to the garden area, lay it d o w n , and see h o w it looks. If y o u w a n t to preserve the w o o d , y o u c o u l d use linseed oil. It's also possible to paint or stain the b o t t o m , outside, and top. Leave the inside u n p a i n t e d so there's no possible c o n t a m i n a t i o n to the g r o w i n g mix.

z yy> if you're starting with used

lumber and it already has paint

on it, you must make sure that

it's not old paint especially if

it's peeling or crumbling; some

older paints contain lead, which

is toxic. You don't want that in

your garden. I also don't

recommend using pretreated

timbers or lumber because it

also can leach chemicals.

58

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

For proper drainage, drill holes

in the plywood bottom of your

tabletop garden—one per square

foot and one extra in each corner.

Other Box Materials

S F G boxes can also be constructed w i t h brick, c e m e n t blocks, prefabricated stone, or large rocks. S t o n e for y o u r S F G b o x can be m a n m a d e preformed sizes or natural slate, r o u n d , riverbed, or any other type of decorative stone that is easy to place and forms an interesting border.

Plywood Bottom

If y o u decide to create a b o t t o m for your S F G , use p l y w o o d sheeting and drill /4-inch drainage holes, o n e per square foot plus an extra 1

hole in each corner. Y o u attach this b o t t o m by p u t t i n g it on t o p of the assembled box sides, screwing it d o w n , then flipping it over so the box sides are sitting on top of the p l y w o o d b o t t o m .

P l y w o o d thickness depends o n the size o f the box. A 2 x 2 o r 2 x 3 b o x — a n y t h i n g s p a n n i n g less than 3 f e e t — n e e d s '/2-inch p l y w o o d . Y o u r 4 x 4 - f o o t boxes need / s - or even ^/4-inch p l y w o o d 5

bottoms. Use the /4-inch p l y w o o d if y o u are going to m o v e it often.

3

If the box is going to rest on sawhorses or cement blocks and span a large, unsupported distance, it requires thicker plywood. I use regular p l y w o o d although some like to spend extra for the longer lasting, but m u c h more expensive, marine or waterproof p l y w o o d .

Building Boxes and Structures

59

Special Structures

For out-of-season gardening, y o u can create spring, summer, fall, and/or winter boxes. These are just 4 x 4 foot standard garden boxes or smaller 2 x 4 size that can be modified for special uses; we'll explain that in C h a p t e r 9. D e p e n d i n g on the time of year, boxes can be equipped with double decks, extensions, covers, or special modifications to allow a longer growing season. Usually these modifications are weather-related items like covers to shade tender seedlings in the s u m m e r or a frost protector either in spring or fall. Y o u will determine the best modifications, d e p e n d i n g on y o u r particular weather and e n v i r o n m e n t a l conditions.

Railing Boxes

If you have flat railings, it is very easy to set a box right on top of it.

For stability, it should be bolted to the w o o d railing. If you can't bolt your boxes d o w n and you're higher than the first floor, I w o u l d place the boxes on the floor. Consider the strength and size of your railing You can build a Square Foot

and the surrounding environment, and make sure your railing boxes Garden box that bolts to your

aren't too big.

deck railing.

60

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Railing boxes m a k e a very decorative and excellent garden, particularly if y o u add trailing types of plants that add some color and character. T h e r e are various holders sold at h o m e improvement stores that snap o n t o your railings to a c c o m m o d a t e standard-sized boxes. H a n g the b o x over the outside edge, a n d it won't take up any of y o u r valuable d e c k space, and, should it drip w h e n you're watering, the water will bypass the d e c k below. However, if y o u r b o x is on the inside of the railing, it w o u l d be m u c h safer.

Pyramid Boxes

Be creative and make your S F G uniquely yours. W h y not get fancy and stack one on top of another to create pyramids? W h y w o u l d y o u do that? Because they're spectacular, and they will be the highlight and focal point of your entire garden. Construction is very simple with just a few braces for stability.

Step Up, Young Lady

T h e next fancy garden layout w o u l d be to make a standard 4-foot wide by any length box but every 2 or 4 feet step up by one level.

T h e r e are m a n y arrangements y o u could design, and they w o u l d be limited only by your imagination. Build them the same w a y as the corner pyramid with an inside brace for every 4-foot section.

One-foot-square boxes are the

perfect size for the steps leading

to your font door.

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61

Make Boxes Extra Deep

M a k i n g boxes that are extra deep m e a n they are extra dramatic.

I k n o w I've told y o u that 6 inches of Mel's M i x is e n o u g h for all plants, b u t y o u r garden b e c o m e s m o r e dramatic w h e n the container is extra tall. If y o u decide to b u i l d y o u r b o x taller, just use 8-, 10-, or 1 2 - i n c h l u m b e r instead of the n o r m a l 6 inches.

T h e only d r a w b a c k is cost. B u t no m a t t e r — y o u ' r e after a dramatic, spectacular l o o k now. S i n c e the plants don't n e e d m o r e t h a n 6 inches of Mel's M i x , don't spend y o u r m o n e y on filling the entire depth w i t h Mel's M i x . U s e sand (cheap and available at any h o m e i m p r o v e m e n t center) on the b o t t o m layer. "I'll just use my existing yard soil," s o m e o n e says "and save even m o r e m o n e y . " Don't! M o s t soils don't drain well a n d have weed seeds. R e m e m b e r weeds? We don't have t h e m a n y m o r e in S F G , so if you're g o i n g to m u l t i p l e layers for y o u r garden boxes, fill a n y space b e l o w 6 inches w i t h just ordinary sand.

A Special Box for Carrots, Leeks, and Potatoes

There is one last item that y o u m i g h t w a n t to c o n s t r u c t — y o u r high-rise boxes for carrots, leeks, and potatoes. These root crops need deep soil so instead of digging d o w n as in most gardening methods, we take the easy w a y and build up. Build a 1 x 1-foot box either 6, 9, or 12 inches tall o u t of p l y w o o d or a n y thin type of lumber. See Chapter 6 for details on planting and growing.

Grids and Materials

Grids are a must. Every b o x should have its o w n permanent and prominent grid. I'm so adamant about having a grid on every b o x I tell people that if y o u r S F G doesn't have a grid, it is not a Square Foot Garden. B u t w i t h a grid, it's an attractive,

unusual, and unique garden. It tells the story of

S F G in one glance. In addition it has m a n y

unseen benefits, so stick w i t h me on this one and

build a grid for all of y o u r boxes.

Blinds

T h e first Penny Pincher tip is slat-type or Venetian

blinds. T h e y c o m e in m a n y widths and lengths,

and if y o u visit a local thrift shop y o u can usually

find a used set at a great price. Find one that's at

least 4 feet wide. C u t off the strings and lay out

the strips. T r i m the ends w i t h a pair of scissors so they fit your box, drill holes at the half and

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

quarter points, and attach them together w i t h some sort of screw, nail, or snap-fastener. T h e o n e p r o b l e m I've f o u n d w i t h blinds is their weight. W h e n y o u first start y o u r garden in the spring, it's usually windy. S o m e t i m e s the blinds b l o w a r o u n d a little just because the garden is e m p t y a n d they have no protection from the w i n d . O n e solution is to attach t h e m to the soil w i t h a l o n g galvanized nail at every 1 2 - i n c h intersection. T h i s helps hold t h e m d o w n so they don't b l o w away.

Wood Lath

T h e second inexpensive material is w o o d lath, w h i c h is sold in h o m e i m p r o v e m e n t centers. Believe it or not, they already c o m e 4 feet l o n g w i t h square ends. S o m e t i m e s they're a little c r o o k e d , filled w i t h knots, or break easily, so sort through them. But they're very, very i n e x p e n s i v e — l e s s than a quarter each. O n c e y o u lay t h e m o u t and drill holes at the 1 2 - i n c h intersections, they're very easy to connect together w i t h a nut and bolt or s o m e other type of Drill a hole through both pieces of

wood at each grid intersection.

Building Boxes and Structures

63

Next, insert some kind of

hardware to loosely hold

the grid together.

Drill a hole through the end of the

center grids and add 4 deck screws.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Once the grid is attached,

fastener. Because the w o o d lath is rigid, it can span from one side of your square foot garden

the box to the other side in case y o u r Mel's M i x is not level w i t h the is ready for planting.

top of the box. O t h e r w i s e , it can just lie on top of the soil. If y o u r grid spans across the box sides, keep the grid from m o v i n g about by drilling a hole in the ends of the t w o center slats and screwing t h e m to y o u r w o o d e n box. S o m e people like to take the w o o d lath grid up for the winter so it doesn't get w e t and rot as easily. U n s c r e w the four screws, fold the grid, a n d h a n g it on the garage wall. Put the screws in a plastic bag and h a n g it up w i t h the grid to keep the screws safe and dry over the winter.

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65

Fun Ideas

You m a y be able to find other scrap w o o d strips around. Carpenters often have strips left over. Y o u just have to keep y o u r eyes o p e n .

" Q u i c k , Henry, stop the car. I saw s o m e t h i n g back there." O r , if y o u have a table saw, it's easy e n o u g h to cut strips of w o o d yourself.

T h e w o o d or blind grids can be painted, w h i c h kids love to d o , creating fancy c o m b i n a t i o n s of colors. For the best visual effect, I think plain white is best. (Kids will say, "Blah!") Y o u can also write on them. (Kids will say, " C o o l ! " ) S o m e people like to record w h a t they've planted. It's fun to have visitors sign y o u r grid, especially children and grandchildren. Let t h e m pick o u t w h i c h square they like best, and tell t h e m it can be theirs. W h e n they call, y o u can tell them h o w their plants are doing. I bet they'll call more often.

Protecting Your SFG

To protect one or more squares next to each other from weather or pests, the first step is to m a k e a wire U-frame cage to fit over those squares. Y o u m a y w a n t to make several U-frames of different sizes that can be used for 1, 2, or 4 square feet and another for an entire 4 x 4 block of 16 square feet. Basically, y o u w a n t to m a k e a wire cage To build a protective cage for your

that will fit over the top of each of these areas. Later y o u can attach 4* 4garden, you'll need: four

a covering m a d e f r o m a n y n u m b e r of materials to protect those one inch by two inch boards, 4

squares from a variety of hazards. I've found that the easiest cage is feet long; chicken wire; plastic ties;

made from plastic-coated wire fencing. T h i s can be cut w i t h wire cutting shears; and a power drill.

Arrange your boards as shown

in this photo and drill two holes

in one end of each board.

Attach the boards with two

coarse-thread deck screws

using your power drill.

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67

pliers and easily bent over a straight edge to almost any shape. Y o u Roll out one long piece of chicken

can make a four-sided wire box from two U-frames or just a t w o -

wire and place your frame close

sided one. T h e r e is quite a variety of fencing wire to choose from so to the center. Bracing the frame

check out w h a t is available. It comes in rolls of different widths and with your foot, bend the chicken

lengths as well as different openings and wire thicknesses. Y o u m a y wire up. Then, do this again

want to call ahead to several places to find the best choice.

for the other side. Remember

to wear gloves!

Chicken Wire

Another c o m m o n material I like to use is chicken wire. It comes in smaller 1-inch o p e n i n g s or larger 2-inch openings. T h e 1-inch size is m u c h stronger b u t will cost a little more. T h e 1-inch size also takes a little longer to bend into shape but will keep out more critters than the 2-inch size. C h i c k e n wire can be cut w i t h pliers or cutting shears. It's sharp, so be sure to wear gloves. Y o u can buy a whole roll of it, 3 or 4 feet wide. In m a n y hardware stores y o u can b u y whatever length y o u want from their roll, and they will cut it for you!

Full Cage

A chicken wire cage over the entire 4 x 4 makes it fairly easy to protect your garden against u n w a n t e d rabbits, birds that dig up and eat newly planted seeds, cats that like to dig in the soil, too m u c h sun on newly planted and delicate seedlings, or strong w i n d gusts during the w i n d y season. Build your wire cage to fit the plants' mature sizes.

(Once plants start growing through the wire, it is very difficult to

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

take the cage off.) Grab the cage wire w i t h your fingers and lift the w h o l e thing off, tend to the plants, and then put it back d o w n . A full cage needs a wooden-frame b o t t o m for support, but it then fits nicely on y o u r w o o d e n garden box frame. See h o w everything in S F G fits together so nicely, just like Legos.

Construction

To m a k e a w o o d e n b o t t o m for a wire cage, attach four pieces of 1 x 2 inch pine l u m b e r 4 feet l o n g in a b o x shape w i t h t w o d e c k screws at each corner. T h e n cut a n d shape y o u r chicken wire or fencing wire to the 4 x 4 box to create any height y o u want. Staple the wire to the w o o d frame using /s-inch staples, and then wire or tie 3

the vertical corners together or wherever the wire forms a corner. If y o u are using chicken wire or any wire that has sharp edges, y o u m a y w a n t to cover the sharp p o i n t s — i n c l u d i n g where the wire is stapled to the w o o d — w i t h something like duct tape (choose a nice color) to prevent getting scratched while you're m o v i n g your cover. A n o t h e r w a y is to attach the wire to the inside of the 1 x 2 frame. It's a little more w o r k to staple the wire to the inside, but there won't be any Brace the frame with your foot sharp points to scratch you. If y o u have a couple of these cages made and bend the chicken wire up. up ahead of t i m e — o n e or t w o that are 6 inches tall, another couple

Once the wire is bent on all sides,

remove the wood frame and

connect the four corners at three

locations using the plastic ties.

Set your wire fame over the

wood fame and connect

the wire with the plastic ties.

Use the ties at random points

on top of the fame, too.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

The frame is lightweight and

is easy to lifi off your 4^4.

Remove it to water, plant,

prune, or harvest.

When placing your protective

cage, make sure the fames line up.

This will keep all kinds of critters

fom taking your harvest.

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71

12 inches tall, and a few at 18 inches t a l l — t h e y will be available at the right time they're needed for y o u r garden. D o n ' t forget y o u can use t h e m as a f r a m e w o r k for spring protection f r o m cold, cats, or crows. T h e y can be s u m m e r p r o t e c t i o n from sun, w i n d , a n d rain, and fall protection from deer, frosts, and snow. T h e y can be stacked on the g r o u n d in a pile or h u n g on the garage or fence wall.

Covers

Materials used for covering the wire cages can be anything from clear plastic to protect plants from w i n d or cold weather and snow, sleet, or r a i n — t o s o m e sort of cloth like cheesecloth or floating cover to protect plants from insects getting in to lay their eggs.

Bend two 10-foot PVCpipes

of '/2-inch diameter fom

corner to corner.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Clothespins

A cover can be easily held in place with clothespins. T h e cover can be o p e n on s o m e sides to allow air to circulate or it can be c o m p l e t e l y enclosed. O n e consideration, of course, is w h e t h e r t o o m u c h heat will build up inside the cage, and that depends on the season and the a m o u n t of sunlight your garden receives in your area. W h e n there is too m u c h sunlight for newly planted transplants, just p u t a shade cloth over the top of y o u r cage. If y o u have several newly planted squares a m o n g other well-established plant squares, y o u can attach shade patches over just those plants that need a little shade.

Protective Dome Supports

A d o m e support is so easy to make. Just b e n d a 10-foot length of

/2-inch P V C pipe from corner t o corner o f y o u r box, and then 1

another from the opposite corners; then tie or bolt it at the intersection at the top to make a d o m e that can support any type of cover.

T h i n k of it as the structural f r a m e w o r k for a g r e e n h o u s e — i n the early spring it can be covered with clear plastic, in the late spring with cheesecloth to keep out egg-laying insects, and in the s u m m e r w i t h shade cloth to provide a little shade for tender y o u n g plants. You can provide protection the same w a y for the fall crop.

Your two pipes should make a

dome as shown here.

Attach a plastic tie at the

intersection to ensure that

it doesn't fall over.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Use a thick plastic cover to protect

your plants from frost. Place some

heavy objects such as bricks on

the edges to secure it.

Covered Wagon

A n o t h e r neat l o o k i n g P V C frame is one in the shape of a covered w a g o n . T h i s takes a little longer to make and requires just a bit more material, but it gives a lot more r o o m and is m u c h easier to use w h e n y o u have a cover over the frame. It requires the same t w o 10-foot long P V C pipes, but they're arched over each end of your box. T h e n , y o u need an extra 4-foot-long piece of pipe that becomes the strut holding the two arches from collapsing. T y i n g the intersection will not w o r k in this design, so y o u have to drill holes in the center of the arches and in each end of the strut, so that a bolt will connect the central strut to the top center of each arch. Use a bolt and nut that won't tear the plastic or net covering. N o w y o u can see the shape is m u c h more conducive to lifting one side to w o r k inside, and it makes it easier to throw a blanket over the entire 4 x4 on a cold night.

For those that don't w a n t such a high frame, y o u just cut the 10-foot P C V pipes d o w n to 6 or 8 feet and you'll have a m u c h lower w a g o n top. For those of y o u thinking, "I'll just buy one 10-footer and cut it in half," that won't work. T h e arch over a 4-foot span has to be more than 5 feet long.

Locate the center of your two

ten foot pipes.

Drill one hole in the center

of two 10'foot PVC pipes.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Place each pipe in a corner

and bend as shown.

Drill holes in the ends of a

4-foot PVC pipe. It will be the

supporting strut. Insert a plastic

cable tie through the holes or a

nut and a bolt to keep it in place.

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77

Plant Supports

W h a t d o y o u d o w i t h heavy fruiting plants such a s peppers, eggplants, a n d giant marigolds? T h e easiest w a y to support the branches of these plants w i t h o u t d o i n g a lot of staking and tying is to make a permanent cage that the plants can g r o w through. T h e cage's height depends on the height of the mature plants. T h i s could be for 1 square foot, 2, 4, or for the w h o l e 16 square feet in a 4 x 4 garden; it all depends on w h a t is planted in each square. T h e cage can be self-supporting w i t h sides that stick into the soil just like the w i r e U - f r a m e previously m e n t i o n e d , or, if y o u are m a k i n g a s u p p o r t for the entire 4 x 4 , it is very easy to p u t a stake of s o m e sort in each c o r n e r — e i t h e r w o o d o r m e t a l — a n d then suspend the wire horizontally b e t w e e n these four corners.

Even better, if y o u are s u p p o r t i n g the entire 4 x 4-foot area, p u t in the four corner stakes a n d then horizontally tie on s o m e n y l o n t o m a t o trellis netting. T h i s netting is available at m o s t garden stores and is particularly g o o d because it is soft a n d cushiony a n d won't cut the plants w h e n they rub against it in the w i n d . It also has large openings y o u can reach in to a n d the plants can g r o w t h r o u g h . It won't bother a n y of the shorter plants either. It is very easy material to w o r k w i t h a n d well-suited for gardening. C o r n e r posts m u s t be very strong a n d firmly held so the horizontal wire or netting won't sag. Posts can be constructed of w o o d a n d driven into the g r o u n d or attached w i t h deck screws to the inside or outside corner of the w o o d frame. Y o u can also use P V C pipe or even metal pipe or fence posts. T h e m a n y options available show h o w flexible Square Foot G a r d e n i n g can be.

Hold Me Up

Tall l a n k y plants s u c h as dahlias, gladiolas, a n d sunflowers m a y also n e e d extra s u p p o r t as they m a t u r e a n d g r o w in height. S u n -

flower seeds will n e e d t e m p o r a r y protection w h e n first planted to prevent birds or rabbits f r o m d i g g i n g up the seeds a n d to prevent other birds f r o m eating the y o u n g sprouts. T e m p o r a r i l y covering y o u r garden w i t h c h i c k e n wire 6 inches over the b o x will provide this p r o t e c t i o n until the plants get that tall. T h e n , after the plants reach a h e i g h t of a b o u t 3 feet, it is time to p u t in four corner p o s t s — s t r o n g steel fence posts a n d n y l o n netting horizontally at several different levels. Start the first at 3 feet a n d the last s h o u l d be as h i g h as the fence posts. T h i s will support plants t h r o u g h to m a t u r i t y a n d keep t h e m f r o m falling over in heavy w i n d a n d rainstorms.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Corn Protection

Everyone loves corn—especially chipmunks, squirrels, and raccoons!

To keep t h e m out and your harvest in, try this foolproof secret. Put one steel fence post in each corner of your 4 x 4 foot garden. Use tall metal 5- or 6-foot fence posts, and then, w h e n corn reaches 4 feet, run chicken wire w i t h 1-inch openings around the outside forming four walls. N e x t , add one more piece across the top at a height of about 4 feet. T h i s will keep the critters out of the corn and prevent S.FG is great for

the crows from eating the seeds and seedlings w h e n first planted.

the family. Each

T h e n , as the corn grows, it will grow right through the top of the

person has his or

wire, w h i c h will support the tall corn stalks w h e n the w i n d b l o w s — a t

her own plot."

the same time, keeping the raccoons and c h i p m u n k s o u t before the corn can be harvested. Y o u can easily tie the horizontal top wire w i t h

—Gary from Michigan

temporary bows so that y o u can u n d o a few and still reach in. Since it is chicken wire, m a k e sure y o u wear a long-sleeved shirt w h e n y o u reach in so y o u don't get scratched. You'll be able to water easily either by h a n d or using a long-handled w a n d and shut-off valve on the end of y o u r hose.

Vertical Frames for Vine Crops

W h e n I first invented the Square Foot G a r d e n i n g m e t h o d , I k n e w one of the real challenges was going to be some of the big sprawling vine crops like tomatoes. W i t h o u t a doubt, tomatoes are America's most-loved garden vegetable. However, they can take up a lot of r o o m and can b e c o m e unsighdy by season's end if they are allowed to grow w i t h o u t proper care. Also, if left to sprawl over the ground, tomatoes can attract additional pests, and m a n y get damaged or ruined from foot traffic. T h e whole idea of growing tomatoes this w a y seemed very non-productive.

I was determined to find a better w a y to g r o w tomatoes and w h a t I devised turned out to be not only g o o d for tomatoes, but for all other vine crops too. Every plant that has a vine that sprawls all over the g r o u n d — e v e n p u m p k i n s and w a t e r m e l o n s — c a n be grown vertically as l o n g as y o u have a strong e n o u g h support; the result is a spectacular sight w i t h very little wasted ground space.

Air Rights

B e i n g an engineer, I thought of buildings in a city. Buildings aren't constructed as one-story structures that sprawl o u t w a r d over the landscape; space is t o o valuable to do this. Instead, designers a n d contractors use w h a t is called air rights, building straight up into the air, floor after floor after floor. W h y can't plants be g r o w n the same way? Well, I discovered they can! All y o u need is a strong framework and something to h o l d the vine onto the framework. D i d y o u k n o w

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79

that vines g r o w better vertically t h a n horizontally? G r o w i n g plants vertically prevents g r o u n d rot a n d discourages pest infestation. I k n o w slugs aren't h a p p y a b o u t my w a y of vertical gardening; I hear they get dizzy up high, but that's their problem!

Nature Supports

T h r o u g h the years I experimented w i t h all different types of materials and frames. Finally, I settled u p o n one that was so simple, easy, and inexpensive to use that it w a s almost ridiculous. T h e n I began growing all different types of plants vertically. I originally thought I w o u l d need to design some special w a y to h o l d up and a c c o m m o d a t e heavier fruits such as winter squash and p u m p k i n s , but as it turned out, these plant vines seemed to understand the situation; the stem supporting the heavy fruit grows thicker and heavier as the fruit becomes larger. If y o u have a framework and support that will h o l d the plant, the plant will h o l d the fruit; it is as simple as that! M o t h e r Nature always seems to k n o w best.

Best Material

I use the strongest material I can find, w h i c h is steel. Fortunately, steel c o m e s in tubular pipe used for electrical c o n d u i t . It is v e r y strong a n d turns o u t to be v e r y inexpensive. C o u p l i n g s are also available so y o u can c o n n e c t t w o pieces together. I designed an attractive frame that fits right o n t o the 4 x 4 b o x , a n d it can be attached to the w o o d e n b o x w i t h clamps that can be b o u g h t at any store. O r , steel reinforcing rods driven into the existing g r o u n d outside y o u r b o x provide a very steady a n d strong base; then the electrical c o n d u i t slips s n u g l y over the bars. It's very simple a n d inexpensive t o assemble. A n y o n e can d o i t — e v e n y o u ! T o prevent vertically g r o w n plants f r o m s h a d i n g other parts of the garden, I r e c o m m e n d that tall, vertical frames be constructed on the north side of the garden. To fit it into a 4 x 4 box, I designed a frame that measured 4 feet w i d e and almost 6 feet tall.

Tie It Tight

Vertically g r o w i n g plants need to be tied to their supports. N y l o n netting won't rot in the sun and weather, and I use it exclusively n o w for b o t h vertical frames a n d horizontal plant supports. It is v e r y s t r o n g — a l m o s t u n b r e a k a b l e — a n d guaranteed for twenty years. It is a w o n d e r f u l material available at garden stores a n d in catalogs. T h e nylon netting is also durable e n o u g h to g r o w the heavier vine crops on vertical frames, i n c l u d i n g w a t e r m e l o n s , p u m p k i n s , cantaloupes, winter and s u m m e r squashes, and tomatoes. Y o u will see in C h a p t e r 8 h o w easy it is to train plants to grow vertically. To hold the plants to the frame, I have f o u n d that n y l o n netting w i t h 7 - i n c h square

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

o p e n i n g s m a d e especially for t o m a t o g r o w i n g w o r k s well because y o u can reach y o u r h a n d t h r o u g h . M a k e sure it is this type so it won't c u t the stem of the plant w h e n it b l o w s against it in the w i n d . T h i s c o m e s in 4 - f o o t w i d t h s a n d can easily be tied to the metal frame. It's s o m e t i m e s hard to find, so call a r o u n d .

Winter Storage

Because the netting is loose, it can flop around unless y o u tie it very tightly to the frame; this is the first step. At the e n d of the season the frames can be left up or they can be slipped off the steel rebar a n d h u n g on a garage wall. A l t h o u g h the c o n d u i t is galvanized a n d endures m a n y years of service, it eventually will r u s t — e s p e c i a l l y at the b o t t o m where i t c o m e s i n contact w i t h the g r o u n d . I f y o u d o h a n g up y o u r metal frames in the winter, for safety reasons make sure y o u cover or clearly mark the steel rebar that is left sticking out of the ground. Y o u can flag it w i t h brightly covered tape, paint it, or find caps that can be screwed on to prevent someone from tripping.

Composters

A composting operation can be as simple as a pile of leaves, weeds, and kitchen scraps. M o t h e r Nature does it all the time. Go to any forest or field a n d you'll see she gets the j o b d o n e w i t h o u t any structures. B u t people are different. We like to conserve space, keep things in their place; a n d we usually w a n t to b u i l d a container or enclosure for our compost materials, w h i c h speeds up the operation by creating bulk, w h i c h then allows the pile to heat up and decompose faster.

W h a t can w e b u y o r build? T h e r e are m a n y c o m p o s t containers o n the m a r k e t m o s t l y m a d e f r o m plastic. A l l w o r k w e l l , are attractive, a n d reasonably priced. T h e r e are c o m p o s t e r s that t u m b l e or turn, speeding up the process, b u t they cost m o r e a n d worst of a l l — y o u still have to turn t h e m . It's fun at first b u t it gets old very fast.

Make Your Own

We need a structure that will h o l d a pile of material in either a r o u n d or square shape. W i r e fencing w o r k s well for r o u n d and even square structures if y o u use four fence posts. M a k e wire cylinders at least 3 to 4 feet in diameter. T h e exact length of fencing you'll need isn't critical. Instead I am just g o i n g to tell everyone to b u y 10 or 15 feet of fencing and shape it in a cylinder by attaching the ends together by b e n d i n g the cut wire ends.

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81

So, if y o u w a n t a 3-foot diameter composter, b u y 10 feet of If you don't have a compost

fencing. If y o u w a n t a 4-foot diameter, b u y 15 feet of fencing and pile yet, start one now. It's

have e n o u g h for a door. A n d , if y o u don't like r o u n d composters, essential to the Square Foot

b u y four 6-foot l o n g steel fence posts, drive t h e m in each corner of Gardening method.

your c o m p o s t e r location, b e n d the wire a r o u n d those, a n d you'll have a square composter, m u c h m o r e suited to S F G . Find the best location for y o u r c o m p o s t e r a n d fill as explained in C h a p t e r 5.

W h e n full or ready to turn, just lift up the wire cylinder, place it next to the pile, a n d use a garden fork to fill the cylinder in its n e w l o c a t i o n — y o u ' v e just turned the pile!

With a Gate

A n o t h e r idea is to have an enclosure that's easier to get into to mix and water or even turn. M a k e an entrance opening w i t h or w i t h o u t a gate. Start by driving t w o steel fence posts in the ground at your selected location; m a k e t h e m about 3 or 4 feet apart. T h e n attach your wire fencing to these posts. T w o options are available for y o u —

with and w i t h o u t a gate. If y o u w a n t a gate it will cost y o u an extra 3 or 4 feet of fencing. No big deal, and it will look nicer and be neater w h e n the enclosure starts filling up. You still tie or wire the fencing to both fence posts; one becomes the hinge, the other the door latch.

M a k e the latch S - h o o k f r o m wire, or y o u can b u y this type of h o o k at the store. You can have one compost bin or two together or even three depending on h o w large your operation is.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Weekly Bins

Just like the wire enclosures, y o u can have one, t w o , or up to six bins all together for M o n d a y through Saturday. (Don't forget we rest on Sunday!) W h e n and w h y w o u l d y o u need more than one? W h e n y o u get serious about composting, y o u m a y be able to get e n o u g h material to fill up one every week. T h e n , for

PENNY PINCHER

mixing (as explained in Chapter 5 ) , y o u just

move material from a full bin into an e m p t y one

SQUARE IS GOOD

right next to it. T h e nice thing about a series is

Here's a no-cost easy way to make

y o u only need three pallets for each additional

your composter out of wood-that

bin.

means free. Women tell me they love

I could include directions for other materials

this because it requires no tools, wire

to use like bricks or cement blocks, landscape

cutting, equipment, or familiarity with

timbers, or logs, but no one is going to build a

construction. Find four wood pallets of

composter out of those materials. T h e y w o u l d

similar size and appearance. You can

be too expensive and inefficient. T h e y m a y look

find discarded pallets everywhere. The

g o o d in books but not in our system because

place to find them is behind the stores

they are just not practical.

and shops where the dumpsters are. Ask

Of course, no one says y o u have to have an

first, just to make sure they are being

enclosure, but if you're a Square Foot Gardener

thrown out. If you can fine four of about

and y o u have nice square boxes for all of your

the same size and look, your finished

garden, w h y w o u l d y o u w a n t just a pile for your composter will look like it's custom

composter?

made just for you. A brick or stone

under each corner helps keep the wood

Aisles

off the ground to keep it from rotting;

corners are tied with rope, cord, or

"Put your best foot forward" is the saying, but

chain. It doesn't have to be nailed or

w h a t are y o u going to put it on? Grass, brick,

screwed together, and it doesn't have to

boards, gravel, or just plain dirt? M o s t people put

be real tight. You may want to have the

their Square Foot boxes in their yard and leave

pallet boards face outside to look nice,

the grass for their aisles. T h i s helps keep a natural

and you can make them all run either

look. A n d don't worry, the grass won't get a lot of

horizontally or vertically-whatever

hard use because there's not that m u c h to do in a

looks best.

Square Foot Garden. If y o u w a n t to leave natural

soil in your aisles use an action hoe once a week

to rid your aisle of pesky weeds.

Brick Paths

I n m y P B S T V garden, w e had a small 1 5 x 1 5 area w i t h several boxes and plain dirt aisles. I spent five minutes every w e e k r u n n i n g an action hoe over the soil to cut off any n e w weeds, a n d it looked pretty nice. B u t then in one of the classes I was giving, some of the ladies w a n t e d to k n o w h o w to lay brick so I t h o u g h t this w o u l d be fun to teach as well as i m p r o v i n g the garden. So w i t h o u t m o v i n g the boxes, we laid d o w n m a n y layers of newspaper. N e x t we added

Building Boxes and Structures

83

i i I i i i l i . i

you don't want grass in your aisles, lay down

a mulch. Here again, you want to first dig out

any weeds or grass; then to prevent weeds from

growing back without using chemicals, you can

put down a landscape fabric or weed cloth. There

are many on the market today. They come in

3- or 4-foot wide rolls and do quite a good job.

(Don't use regular black plastic-it won't drain

and it's slippery.) Then just cover the cloth with

at least 1 or 2 inches of mulch.

You can also use gravel, which comes in all

different kinds and sizes, colors and shapes,

or you can use other types of ground cover like

ground up bark or pine needles; I've even seen

people use straw, hay, salt hay, or even leaves

collected and saved from last fall. As you walk,

these materials break up and gradually decom-

pose, creating something you can add later to

your compost pile.

You can also build walkways out of brick, wood

planks, or paving stones. Again, take out any

weeds and put down a weed cloth first. You can

create some very interesting patterns with bricks

and paving blocks. Keep the joints fairly tight so

the surface doesn't shift.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Go to the nursery department

of your local home improvement

center and browse through it

to find the ground cover material

you prefer.

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85

a 1-inch layer of sand and then started laying

bricks right on that sand base. No mortar or

c e m e n t is n e e d e d — j u s t fill in the tight joints w i t h loose sand. W h e n we got to the existing

4 x 4 garden boxes, w e just w e n t right a r o u n d

them. It w e n t well and in o n e afternoon it was

all done. W h a t a n i m p r o v e m e n t — w o w ! W e added s o m e patio furniture, a n d this area

became a favorite spot to sit a n d enjoy the yard

and gardens. W e also began t o notice m o r e o f

a different k i n d of visitor to the g a r d e n — t h e

birds a n d bees a n d butterflies a n d so m a n y

m o r e insects. A n d all for the price of a few

bricks (well, a small truckload actually) a n d a

little sand.

One Last Idea

H o w w o u l d y o u like to carpet y o u r garden . . .

wall t o wall? W e l l , y o u can. B u y n e w o r used indoor/outdoor patio carpeting. It even comes in

a grass style but, don't worry, y o u won't have to

m o w it!

Let's Review

W h e n building a S F G , start w i t h the basic building b l o c k — a 4 x 4

bottomless w o o d box. T h e n , depending on the situation, add special features to solve any gardening problem or to protect your garden from any hazard. S o m e of the simple additions y o u can add to your S F G boxes:

• A wire b o t t o m to keep o u t moles, voles, and gophers

• A w e e d cloth b o t t o m to keep out weeds or grass

• A chicken wire top to keep out cats, dogs, and rabbits

• A P V C top frame then:

• Clear plastic to create a miniature greenhouse

• Bird or deer netting

• A blanket to protect plants from frosts

• Floating covers to protect from insects

• T h e possibilities are endless for everyone, from apartment dwellers to the elderly, and even people w i t h special needs.

After all this talk a b o u t b u i l d i n g all these different things for protecting y o u r garden, I don't w a n t y o u to b e c o m e w o r r i e d , t h i n k i n g that y o u have to spend a lot of t i m e creating c o m p l e x

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

structures for your S F G . It's not so! We've just learned h o w easy it is to adjust a S F G to improve its flexibility and to a c c o m m o d a t e unique gardening situations. T h i s is readily done since a S F G is so small and manageable. For the most part, your plants will just sit there quietly growing, looking better and better every day. So relax and enjoy!

Family

B u t remember, protecting your garden is a lot like protecting your c h i l d r e n — i f it's cold, add a blanket (a sweater); if sleet and hail are predicted, add clear plastic (a raincoat); and if it's windy, add an extra shield against the w i n d (a windbreaker). Since y o u wouldn't let your kids play out in the cold winter without a snowsuit for protection, do the same for y o u r plants. K e e p i n g this in m i n d , you'll be able to c o m e up w i t h easy and practical solutions for protecting your garden from the worst of conditions. T h a t makes it very rewarding because then y o u can enjoy your garden m u c h longer every year.

This simple PVC frame can

protect your plants from many

things including harmful weather

and unwanted nibblers. (I'm not

talking about you!)

Mel's Mix

Mel's M i x is the most important, productive, essential, necessary, critical, major subject and is the backbone of the entire b o o k and the Square Foot G a r d e n i n g method!

That's the picture. G e t it? It is the reason all the other improvements are possible. S o , please, p a y attention, study, a n d learn everything in this chapter so y o u can m a k e your Mel's M i x the best y o u can. T h i s will allow y o u to automatically have all the other benefits and improvements that c o m e so naturally to (the all new) S F G .

Don't Skimp On This

N o w , w i t h A l l N e w Square Foot G a r d e n i n g you'll never have to do all the hard w o r k , expense, and time-consuming, back-breaking labor of improving y o u r garden soil every spring like we used to do. Your Mel's M i x is ready to go whenever y o u are. It never has to be replaced and y o u don't have to do a thing except plant your seeds.

Mel's M i x m a y be the most cosdy part of S F G , yet at the same time it is the most cost effective. H o w can it be both? T h e answer: if y o u try to skimp on this item, you'll be disappointed in all the rest.

But, if y o u do it right, all the other advantages of S F G will fall into place and y o u will be the richest gardener on the block. Sorry to be so adamant, b u t this is really w h a t makes S F G so different and successful. We have never had a failure of S F G except w h e n someone decided to skimp on the ingredients to save a few bucks.

Let's review w h a t this perfect soil will do for y o u r garden, then the w h y and h o w so y o u fully understand the nature of the mix.

W e ' l l g o t h r o u g h each o f the three ingredients i n d i c a t e d —

c o m p o s t , peat moss, a n d v e r m i c u l i t e — a n d w h a t each o n e is, w h y y o u need it, a n d w h e r e to obtain it all. T h e n I'll discuss h o w to m i x , m o i s t e n , a n d place it in y o u r boxes. If y o u do it right, you'll have the m o s t enjoyable g a r d e n i n g experience of y o u r life. T h a t w o n d e r f u l feeling w i l l be repeated every time y o u plant a n d replant every single square foot. Y o u r h a n d will just slip t h r o u g h

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

the loose, easily w o r k e d , earthy-smelling soil, a n d y o u will sigh w i t h happiness a n d smile every time. It is truly an e m o t i o n a l experience that very f e w gardeners have ever e n c o u n t e r e d . B u t e n o u g h talk a n d teasing—let's get started!

No More

T h i s is a partial list of just s o m e of the

k n o w l e d g e y o u h a d t o learn a b o u t backyard soils in the past. B u t n o t now! Forget a b o u t

every one o f t h e m . W h y ? Because Square

F o o t G a r d e n i n g is n o w so simple y o u don't

have to learn all the intricate details of soil

structure, texture, a n d drainage. Y o u don't

even have t o k n o w w h a t p H means, h o w t o

p r o n o u n c e it, or w h i c h letter is a capital

a n d w h i c h is lower case (or w h y people are

always getting that m i x e d u p ) . W h y , y o u

m a y ask? Because I've designed our perfect

soil m i x w i t h the correct pH level (acid or

alkaline) for just a b o u t all plants.

For those of y o u w h o crave more information, a g o o d , blended, balanced c o m p o s t — o n e of the ingredients in Mel's M i x and w h a t y o u will add to your boxes after each h a r v e s t — m a d e from at least five different ingredients will not only have a pH close to neutral, but it also balances the acidity in peat moss. In addition, since we don't use y o u r existing soil (remember we only need 6 inches of pure Mel's M i x ) , y o u won't be concerned w i t h w h a t type of soil it is or w h a t the pH is. Y o u won't have to b u y a pH soil test kit or take samples to y o u r c o u n t y extension agent. Y o u won't have to learn that eastern U.S.A. soils are slightly acidic while western soils are more alkaline, and y o u won't have to learn w h a t to add, h o w m u c h , and w h e n .

Y o u won't have to b u y a spreader or any of that stuff.

No Fertilizer, No Mess

Mel's M i x has all the nutrients, minerals, a n d trace elements that plants need. So forget all about fertilizer. Isn't that amazing? N o t only do y o u not have to b u y it, y o u don't even have to learn about it. S F G

is an all-organic, all-natural method.

C o m e spring you'll find there is no w o r k to do; there is no g o i n g to the store, reading labels, lugging big bags or bales of soil additives h o m e , no spreading t h e m out, w o r k i n g in lime, getting a rototiller r u n n i n g and w o r k i n g — t h e n trying to turn over that wet, m u c k y soil, getting it all over your shoes and t o o l s — o h , w h a t a mess that was.

B u t that is all a thing of the past. W h y , y o u don't even have to do the soilball test in the palm of your h a n d only to find out y o u have to

Mel's Mix, Essential for Square Foot Gardening Success

89

wait another w e e k because y o u r soil is too w e t or still frozen. (What's the soilball test, y o u ask? I'm not g o i n g to tell y o u because y o u don't need to k n o w it any longer.)

Your Mel's M i x is always ready to plant no matter w h a t the weather. It's always loose, friable (which the experts define as that which is easily w o r k e d — g o o d and crumbly), and ready for the right time of year to plant. It drains a n d b e c o m e s unfrozen so m u c h quicker than regular garden soil.

Where Have You Been?

Planting a garden will no longer depend on w h e n the soil is ready but only on the right date to plant seeds and transplants. T h i s is just one more simplification of gardening the Square Foot way. H o w does that all sound? Simple and e a s y — n o work, no muss, no fuss. I have had people ask m e , " W h y weren't y o u born one hundred years ago so I could have started w i t h Square Foot G a r d e n i n g instead of having to do all the w o r k of single-row gardening all my life?" G o o d question!

No Digging

Using Mel's M i x completely eliminates all the hard w o r k of digging a n d m o v i n g existing soil. A 4 x 4 x l 2 - i n c h - d e e p area contains 16 cubic feet of soil that weighs well over 400 pounds. That's a lot of soil to d i g up a n d m o v e a r o u n d . A l l g a r d e n i n g in the past has been based u p o n improving your existing soil. My original b o o k had rather c o m p l i c a t e d instructions for y o u r soil, b u t we've c h a n g e d all that.

D o n ' t even be c o n c e r n e d a b o u t it. Y o u don't have to k n o w a n y t h i n g a b o u t soils. Just start w i t h a perfect g r o w i n g s o i l — M e l ' s M i x of 1/3 compost, V3 peat moss, and 1/3 vermiculite measured by volume.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Like A Sponge

T h r o u g h m a n y experiments, I came up with the very best ingredients for that perfect g r o w i n g soil. Of course, I m a d e sure they were all inexpensive, readily available, and able to hold just the right a m o u n t of moisture for plants while not b e c o m i n g too soggy for roots, which might d r o w n your plants. I created a formula that holds moisture yet drains well.

At first this seemed like an impossible task, but then I thought about sponges. W h e n y o u take a dry sponge and slowly add water to it, it just keeps soaking up water until it's finally saturated. At that Three ingredients make up Mel's

point, any extra water just drains out the b o t t o m . Well, it turns out Mix: Peat moss, vermiculite, and

that two of our ingredients—peat moss and v e r m i c u l i t e — d o exactly blended compost. Combined

that same thing. It takes a while to wet them and keep them moist properly, Mel's Mix retains moisture,

so y o u have to keep a d d i n g water, but finally, w h e n they b e c o m e drains perfectly, and has all the

saturated, any excess water just drains right out the b o t t o m . Peat nutrients and trace minerals a plant

moss and vermiculite are sold at garden nurseries, h o m e improve-could ever want.

ment centers, and even some grocery stores.

Mel's Mix, Essential for Square Foot Gardening Success

91

An assortment of composts is shown

here. You'll need at least 5 different

types of compost for Mel's Mix.

Pay no attention to weight; go by

the volume, even if you have to

estimate it.

Buying peat moss in 3.9 cubic foot

bales is the most cost-efficient. The

smaller bags of loose peat moss are

more expensive. The same goes

for vermiculite; ask for the I

4.0 cubic foot size. Don't settle for

the small bags measured by quarts.

Make a neat cut in the top of your

bags. This way, when you've finished

making your own Mel's Mix, you

can reuse the bags to store any

leftover mix.

Important Note: If volume is not marked on the bags, compare them to similarly sized bags where volume is marked to estimate.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Math 101

T h e biggest problem turns out to be arithmetic, not the materials. A l l three ingredients in Mel's M i x are sold in different-sized bags or bales, a n d this m a y m a k e i t harder t o figure o u t h o w m u c h o f each y o u need. But, don't worry, I'm g o i n g to give y o u some examples so y o u won't even have to think about the math.

1 Compost

a My square foot

Let's take a m i n u t e to describe c o m p o s t . It is one-third of the Mel's M i x , and it is also what y o u add to your All N e w Square Foot Garden

garden has been the

after y o u harvest each square foot. So what is it, h o w do y o u make it,

most productive,

and w h y bother?

lowest maintenance

C o m p o s t is absolutely the best material in w h i c h to g r o w y o u r

garden I've ever

plants. G o o d compost has all the nutrients needed for plant growth. It's

had"

loose and friable and easily worked. It holds lots of moisture yet drains well. It's easy to make yet hard to find. T h e best kind is h o m e m a d e

—Pat from Utah

compost that y o u make in your o w n backyard. T h e worst kind is the single ingredient byproduct some c o m p a n y has produced and bagged.

Good and Bad

So, let's simplify garden composting and garden compost.

First off, it's a very confusing subject because the w o r d "compost"

is b o t h a n o u n and a verb. As a n o u n , c o m p o s t is described as a rich, crumbly, soil-like material used in gardening. As a verb, it is the process of breaking d o w n plant material that is no longer growing through a decomposition process.

To complicate the understanding of the garden-related, breaking-d o w n process ( c o m p o s t as a verb), there are actually t w o types of p r o c e s s e s — a e r o b i c , w i t h air; a n d anaerobic, w i t h o u t air. B o t h are a natural, M o t h e r Earth process. B u t the first, or aerobic, has no odor, heats up, and does its j o b w i t h little microbes wearing white hats (the g o o d guys). T h e second, or anaerobic process, smells, is messy, and is very objectionable. T h e m o r e c o m m o n n a m e for this is rotting. I don't have to tell y o u that all these microbe bugs wear black hats (the bad guys). It's true all those bad-guy, black-hat items will eventually decompose, but y o u don't w a n t to be around while they do.

What to Use

A n y plant material is perfect for adding to y o u r c o m p o s t pile as long as it's not hosting a plant disease or pest. W h e n the ingredients are all piled together a n d if they have e n o u g h b u l k , they will d e c o m p o s e organically by the aerobic process all by themselves. B u t it takes time; M o t h e r Nature can't be hurried. S o m e people say, "I can't wait

Mel's Mix, Essential for Square Foot Gardening Success

93

for a year or two. H o w can I speed this process?" The answer—mix, mash, moisten, and move.

i i I i i i I i i

QUICK COMPOST

Keep everything moist, make a

big pile, and keep turning it.

How often? Every day if you

want the finished compost in

two weeks; every week for

results in three months; or every

month for it to be ready in a

year. The ideal conditions for the

fastest results are:

1. Mix-add as many different,

plant-based ingredients as you

can find.

2. Mash-chop everything up into

small pieces.

3. Moisten-not dry or wet, just

moist.

4. Move-keep turning the pile

towards the center where all

the action is.

The results will be the most

amazing material you could

hope for in your garden. It's

often called black gold because

of the color of the finished

product called compost.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Needs Mass

U s i n g the right ingredients and mixing, mashing, moistening, and m o v i n g t h e m will help speed the composting. B u t there is one more ideal condition, and that is mass. T h e more bulk y o u have in your pile (up to a certain point), the faster it will c o m p o s t or decompose.

If your pile is taller than 4 feet, you'll have a hard time adding n e w ingredients. If the area is larger than 4 x 4 , the air will have trouble g e t t i n g into the center where all the action is a n d the white-hat, g o o d - g u y microbes will turn into the black-hat, bad-guy microbes and the pile will start to decompose anaerobically (without air) and start to smell. If y o u don't have e n o u g h b u l k — s m a l l e r than 3 x 3 , y o u r pile will just sit there and do nothing except cry out, "I'm g o i n g to wait for M o t h e r Nature."

We keep calling it a pile, a n d y o u m a y w o n d e r if it will be ugly a n d messy. B u t the pile can be c o n t a i n e d very nicely w i t h a h o m e -

m a d e or store-bought container called a composter. ( O h no! A n o t h e r name!) So now, I'm g o i n g to be composting my compost in my composter. You've got it! See, that wasn't so bad.

Still Confused?

W a y back w h e n I wrote my first b o o k on S F G , I had no idea people w o u l d be so confused a b o u t c o m p o s t i n g until I realized that o n l y 10 percent of gardeners actually compost, another 10 percent don't ever w a n t to compost, and the middle 80 percent say they w o u l d like t o b u t are confused a n d scared b y the process. O f course, m u c h o f that confusion is f r o m n o t k n o w i n g h o w to c o m p o s t aerobically.

Let's summarize.

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95

Compost Ingredients

W h a t y o u need to remember about the ingredients is that animal byproducts are not g o o d for your compost. Eggshells are okay; just crush a n d sprinkle a r o u n d . M a n u r e is o k a y f r o m plant-eating animals, but no manure from meat-eating animals.

Turn the Handles or Chop, Chop, Chop

If y o u are in a real hurry, there are expensive, b u t effective, rotating d r u m composters y o u can buy. Y o u just turn a handle, flip a container, or push a barrel around, and the contents are mixed and moved. Great idea, and they w o r k if y o u do it regularly.

I've also heard of, but never tried, the closed, black-plastic-bag-of-ingredients-left-in-the-garage-over-the-winter m e t h o d . Be careful w h e n y o u open the bag because, as y o u can guess, that m e t h o d uses the black-hat, no air, anaerobic process that smells.

S o m e gardeners have tried using plastic or m o l d e d garbage cans or even larger trash containers. Y o u have to drill or poke holes in them so the air can get in, but if the lid is tight-fitting, y o u could roll it around every day.

O n m y P B S T V p r o g r a m , I s h o w e d h o w t o m a k e a rolling composter out of an old, cleaned oil d r u m . Y o u could push it w i t h your foot to roll it around. It was great.

I've f o u n d from m y o w n experimenting that, n o matter w h a t m e t h o d y o u use, the sooner y o u m i x a n d m o v e and the m o r e y o u mash (cut or c h o p ) , the sooner a n d faster you'll start the c o m p o s t -

ing action going. Just add c o m p o s t ingredients by m i x i n g it in w i t h the top of the existing pile. E a c h time y o u add a lot or just a little, stir it into the t o p of the pile a n d m i x it in well. But, don't just add it in layers.

Practical Composting Tips

Mow Those Leaves

Save some of y o u r leaves from fall to add to the compost pile next year rather than all at once. After y o u rake t h e m up, run the lawn-mower over t h e m to c h o p t h e m up and then stuff into plastic bags (make sure they are dry) or, if y o u are a "neatnik," store t h e m in gray garbage bins stored along the wall of your compost operation.

Dry That Grass

Others like to save their grass clippings the same way, but y o u have to be very careful. If piled up, fresh green grass will quickly turn into a

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black-hat, anaerobic operation that's a stinking, slimy, gooey mess.

Grass clippings have to be dried before adding them to the pile or stored for later addition. It does seem like an o x y m o r o n to dry the grass clippings only to moisten them in the c o m p o s t pile, but n o w I'm sure y o u can see w h y we do it that way.

I compare it to my mother's meatloaf. She w o u l d dry bread and then crumble it to make bread crumbs. She w o u l d then add milk to moisten everything. If she had just added moist, fresh bread, it w o u l d have gotten c l u m p y and gooey. T h e c o m p o s t is similar. If material is put in wet, it packs d o w n in clumps preventing air from entering the pile, and then it rots and smells.

So spread your grass clippings out on a tarp or the driveway, turn them a few times with a rake or flip your tarp before storing them or a d d i n g t h e m to y o u r c o m p o s t pile. H o w long? Until the grass is brownish and dry to the touch. It depends on the sun, humidity, and rain, as well as the climate of your location.

Mix and Turn

T h i s is a g o o d time to r e m i n d y o u that the center of the pile is where most of the action is. It will be the hottest (up to 1 5 0 ° F

or 6 5 ° C ) , the moistest, and w i t h the most white-hats r u n n i n g a r o u n d d e c o m p o s i n g the ingredients. K n o w i n g all that w h e n y o u turn the contents of o n e c o m p o s t bin into another, y o u will be p u t t i n g the top of A into the b o t t o m of B — a s s u m i n g y o u have t w o bins or piles s i d e - b y - s i d e — t h e n y o u m a k e sure y o u p u t the outside material of A into the inside of B. G e t it? It's just like the

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theory that opposites attract. M i x in (at the same time) opposite colors, wetness, s i z e — e v e r y t h i n g opposite for the fastest operation.

In other w o r d s , b r o w n w i t h green, w e t w i t h dry, coarse w i t h fine.

That's all easy to r e m e m b e r — j u s t t h i n k of opposites attracting a n d you'll have a great operation.

If You Decide to Buy Compost

Don't b u y all of one kind of c o m p o s t if y o u decide to not make it yourself. Don't let the clerk sell y o u

the "best and most popular," especially if it's loose and n o t bagged. Here's why. All c o m m e r c i a l c o m p o s t is a b y p r o d u c t f r o m o n e industry. It m i g h t be the w o o d , cattle, m u s h r o o m , cannery, cotton, or soybean industry that has a waste

p r o d u c t a n d they have to get rid of it. T h e y said,

" W h a t i f w e take our waste p r o d u c t (sawdust, manure, vines, p u l p , or husks) a n d c o m p o s t it, people will p a y us a n d take it away." Everyone

laughed b u t , by golly, it h a p p e n e d just that

way. N o w every industry w i t h a waste product is

finding ways to get rid of it at a profit all the

while protecting the environment. W h a t a g o o d

deal. T h e only setback for gardeners is most bags

of compost c o m e from a single product and have

only one ingredient.

What's the solution? B u y a variety of composts

and mix t h e m together. N o w , y o u are more likely

to get a better mixture.

Do Big Time

If y o u are really into this, y o u can brainstorm to think of places that throw out organic or plant material. Like a bird shop and all those bird droppings that go on the b o t t o m of the cage. A n d , h o w about the annual fire d e p a r t m e n t c o m m u n i t y breakfast—fresh fruit, banana and orange peels maybe, but also h o w about eggshells? Just ask a h e a d — t a k e boxes or bags and ask t h e m to separate the trash. Or, h o w about the annual 4th of July watermelon picnic in town? T h e r e are all kinds of places w h e r e y o u can collect ingredients for y o u r c o m p o s t pile. A n d , y o u k n o w , the nice t h i n g is that you'll find the same situation the w o r l d over.

W h e n I'm visiting foreign countries, my hosts say, " W e are poor here, and we have nothing to compost." I take t h e m on a tour and find all of these places have things that c o u l d be c o m p o s t e d . It's

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always things people are throwing out. I've done that in India, Haiti, A r g e n t i n a , N e p a l , T h a i l a n d , G h a n a , a n d even i n L o n d o n , Paris, A m s t e r d a m , and N e w York City, so don't be afraid to go, look, and ask—it's out there.

2 Peat Moss

T h e s e c o n d ingredient in Mel's M i x is peat

moss. It's a natural material o c c u r r i n g on the

earth that has been m a d e after millions of

years f r o m d e c o m p o s i n g plant material. Y o u can usually determine h o w old peat moss is

by measuring h o w deeply it's buried. It is

c o m m o n l y used in agriculture to i m p r o v e

existing soils because it makes t h e m lighter,

m o r e friable, a n d water retentive.

T h e r e are plenty of debates about the use of

peat moss because it's a nonrenewable resource.

Because there is a limit to this valuable material

I'd like to guide y o u in using it responsibly while

maximizing its benefits.

Only a Little

T h e n e w S F G m e t h o d uses o n l y 2 0 percent o f the space o f traditional single-row gardens. T h e r e f o r e , y o u automatically use o n l y 20 p e r c e n t — o n e - f i f t h — a s m u c h peat moss, an 80 percent reduction. I n addition, w i t h Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g , y o u add peat moss o n c e a n d o n l y o n c e w h e n y o u first create y o u r Mel's M i x . Thereafter, you'll never need to add peat moss to the garden.

( W h a t y o u will add is compost, w h i c h is renewable.) In the U n i t e d States, most peat moss comes from the northern states and C a n a d a where it is still readily available. Because it's such a valuable resource, S F G says let's not waste it. Instead let's get rid of all single-row gardens that require five times as m u c h nonrenewable materials to improve the soil year after year. Let's be conservative and sensible and use w h a t we have, a beneficial, natural material, but m a k e it longer lasting.

3 Yermiculite

Vermiculite, the third and final ingredient in Mel's M i x , is also a natural material and is obtainable all over the w o r l d . It's m i c a rock m i n e d o u t of the g r o u n d . O n c e the rock is collected, it is then g r o u n d up into small particles a n d heated until it explodes just like

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p o p c o r n , forming small pieces from as large as the tip of y o u r little finger d o w n to almost a powder. However, this material is filled w i t h n o o k s and crannies, just like an English muffin. T h e s e n o o k s and crannies h o l d a tremendous a m o u n t of water and yet can breathe, m a k i n g the soil extremely friable and loose. T h e moisture is always there for the roots to absorb. R e m e m b e r that roots don't grow t h r o u g h soil; they g r o w a r o u n d soil particles. That's w h y plants do better in a loose, friable soil because the roots have an easy time growing.

Certified

Vermiculite is graded into several sizes—fine, m e d i u m , and c o a r s e —

and is also tested and qualified for different types of uses. T h e coarse agricultural grade holds the most moisture while at the same time giving the most friability to the soil mix. Y o u m a y find that some stores do not carry vermiculite. If y o u ask t h e m why, y o u m i g h t hear a story that started m a n y years ago w h e n one mine in M o n t a n a was shut d o w n because part of the mine was f o u n d to contain asbestos.

Now, shutting d o w n a m i n e because it contains asbestos makes sense.

However, some newspaper stories associated the problem w i t h all of the products c o m i n g from the mine. A l t h o u g h the mine was shut d o w n and the industry has produced a great deal of evidence that the contamination was not in the vermiculite, the story surfaces every few years as if it was new, thereby getting everyone upset all over again. It was a serious situation, but as a result, the g o o d news is that all the vermiculite mines around the w o r l d and products sold are n o w meticulously inspected by everyone; the bags we b u y n o w even come w i t h a "Certified Asbestos Free" sticker.

Locating it can be difficult. Let your fingers do the walking and call around. C a l l all the major nurseries, garden supply centers, and major h o m e i m p r o v e m e n t stores and try to get the garden manager on the p h o n e and ask t h e m if they carry the large 4-cubic-foot bags of coarse vermiculite because you're building a Square Foot Garden.

If that fails, l o o k under "greenhouse supplies or suppliers" in the yellow pages for wholesale distributors. S o m e people have found it at farm feed stores or even on the Internet.

T h e r e is o n e c a u t i o n w h e n y o u m i x it, a n d it is the same caution w i t h peat moss. B o t h materials are dusty w h e n dry right o u t of the b a g so wear gloves a n d a p a i n t i n g mask. M i x o n l y outdoors on a c a l m day.

Perlite Instead of Vermiculite?

Perlite is another natural material m i n e d out of the earth and used in agriculture for the same purpose as v e r m i c u l i t e — t o break up and loosen poor soils and to retain moisture. I personally don't like or use

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perlite, and here's why. It is hard as a rock, rather coarse a n d gritty, and I don't like the feel of it in the soil mix. It doesn't h o l d moisture like vermiculite. In addition, it floats to the t o p of the soil m i x as y o u water your garden and because it's white, it looks rather unsighdy and unnatural. A n d it makes me sneeze! M a n y people do use perlite instead of vermiculite and, in fact, most of the commercial mixes are made w i t h perlite because it's cheaper. It's a matter of preference and availability, but I k n o w w h i c h one I'm buying.

Buying What You Need

If y o u found the m a t h about area difficult in previous chapters, don't even bother w i t h volume. G e t the kids to do the m a t h for y o u .

W h y concern yourself w i t h volume? Because y o u need t o k n o w the quantity of the three ingredients for Mel's M i x necessary to fill y o u r boxes, and the packages for the different ingredients c o m e in different sizes. B u t the g o o d news is they usually use cubic feet as their measurement. If not, disregard w e i g h t and estimate by volume.

So, let's review h o w to figure v o l u m e . V o l u m e is merely: area x d e p t h = c u b i c feet. In other

w o r d s , square feet (the area) times the depth

equals c u b i c feet.

O u r 4 x 4 - f o o t b o x is 16 square feet in area

(that's 4 feet times 4 feet). If it were 1 foot deep,

the v o l u m e w o u l d be: 16 (the area) times 1 (the

depth) equals 16 c u b i c feet. B u t it's n o t 1 foot

deep, it's o n l y 6 inches deep so we need o n l y

one-half or just 8 cubic feet for our 4 x4 box. T h e

m a t h looks like this: 4 times 4 divided by one-

half foot equals 8. Or to show it mathematically,

(4x4)/2 = 8. ( N o w don't laugh, kids, some of the

parents will be thankful for this kind of help).

Peat Moss (Compressed bale)

Full bale: 3.9 c u b i c feet compressed = 8 c u b i c feet loose H a l f bale: 2.2 c u b i c feet compressed = 4 c u b i c feet loose (These measurements aren't exact, but we're not mixing a cake here.) Vermiculite (coarse)

D o n ' t b u y the small 4-quart sized or similar b a g — i n s i s t on the 4-cubic-feet big bag. Call ahead to locate.

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Mel's Mix Volume

N o w here's the tricky part. Since all the p r o d u c t s for Mel's M i x c o m e in different v o l u m e s , you'll have to purchase t h e m already k n o w i n g h o w m u c h you'll n e e d t o m i x correctly a n d fill y o u r boxes completely. Let's use a hypothetical example. If we had 4 x4

boxes, they w o u l d each have a v o l u m e of 8 cubic feet, as we determined already. So, if we had six boxes to fill, we w o u l d need 6 x 8 =

48 cubic feet of mix. (Six boxes times 8 cubic feet for each b o x equals 48 cubic feet of mix.) O n e - t h i r d of the total for each ingredient =

48/3 = 16 cubic feet of each. (A total of 48 cubic feet divided by three different ingredients equals 16 cubic feet of each ingredient.) Shopping list

• Peat Moss: 16/8 = t w o full bales

• Vermiculite: 16/4 = four big bags

• Compost: W h a t e v e r it takes to get 16 cubic feet of five different kinds. Forget weight, measure by volume.

U

Your book,

More Shopping Lists for Different Sized Batches

website and

If y o u had three 4 x 4 boxes (24 cubic feet total), y o u w o u l d need:

method are

• t w o 4-cubic-foot bags of coarse vermiculite to equal

just fantastic."

8 cubic feet.

—Annie from New fersey

• one 3.9-cubic-foot bale of peat moss (expands to 8 cubic feet).

• a n d 8 c u b i c feet f r o m at least five different c o m p o s t s bags.

If the bags are sold by w e i g h t only, estimate v o l u m e by c o m p a r i n g to similar sized bags that note volume.

I f y o u h a d o n e 4 x 4 b o x a n d o n e 2 x 4 o r o n e 3 x 3 b o x ( 1 2 c u b i c feet), a n d y o u w a n t e d to m i x up half of a b a t c h to start w i t h , y o u w o u l d add together just o n e 4-cubic-foot b a g o f vermiculite, half o f a 3.9-cubic-foot bale of peat moss (or if y o u can find the 2.2^cubic-foot bales that e x p a n d to equal a b o u t 4 c u b i c feet loose), a n d t w o o f the 2-cubic-foot bags o f c o m p o s t . I f the c o m p o s t c o m e s i n other sized bags, y o u m a y have to do a little arithmetic. That's e n o u g h Mel's M i x to fill o n e 4 x4 b o x that needs 8 c u b i c feet plus one 2 x4 b o x that needs four c u b i c feet, or o n e 3 x3 b o x that needs 4 V 2 c u b i c feet.

How to Mix

T h i s is where m a k i n g y o u r Mel's M i x and filling your boxes starts to get fun. M i x it all at once if possible (storing any excess in recycled bags). B u t if it's too big a batch to handle, split it into smaller batches.

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Here's a suggestion: Use a pair of scissors to cut open your bags carefully along the top so y o u can reuse them. At the same time explain to the kids the environmental three R's—reduce, reuse, and recycle. O u r Square Foot Gardening system is a great example of: 1. reduce, by 80 percent,

2. reuse, save the bags, and

3. recycle plants in your compost.

G e t a large tarp, at least I 6 x l 6 - f e e t , and open it near your garden where y o u have all your boxes built and located. M a k e sure y o u have them in their final resting p l a c e — c h e c k w i t h the boss one more time and ask, "Are y o u sure this is where y o u w a n t all the boxes, dear?"

A l l of the three ingredients are dusty w h e n dry, so do this w h e n there is no w i n d . D o n ' t do it in the garage, or you'll get dust all over y o u r nice n e w car or w o r k s h o p . W e a r a painter's m a s k and have a hose ready w i t h a very fine spray. D o n ' t forget to have a few m i x i n g tools ready like a s n o w shovel, a h o e , or a steel rake.

C o u n t o u t the bags and boxes, do the m a t h one m o r e time and start opening the bags and pouring the contents out on the tarp without walking on the ingredients. R o u g h l y mix the three ingredients as Empty the 5 bags ofdifferent best y o u Can as y o u p o u r it.

kinds of compost in the center T h e n drag t w o corners of the tarp to the opposite t w o corners.

of a large tarp. You'll see the material roll over, m i x i n g itself. W h e n you've pulled

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103

You should have a fairly large pile of blended

To mix, take two corners of the tarp and drag the tarp over itself compost (above).

until the pile rolls to the edge of the tarp. It helps to have two people do this (below).

Once the compost is well mixed,

add your vermiculite.

Next, add the peat moss.

These ingredients can be dusty, so

water them lightly before mixing.

You may also want to wear a

protective mask.

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the tarp so that the mixture is almost to the edge, m o v e 90 degrees and pull those t w o corners over. Y o u just w o r k y o u r w a y a r o u n d the tarp a n d repeat p u l l i n g corners together until y o u r Mel's M i x is u n i f o r m l y m i x e d . It's finished w h e n y o u don't see any single material or o n e color.

Use the hose w i t h a fine mist or spray to w e t d o w n any dust, but don't spray so m u c h y o u m a k e puddles or w e t the ingredients so the mixture becomes too heavy to m o v e easily. Don't let the kids play in the mixture, or they will crush the large particles of vermiculite. (By the way, I'd save a small plastic b a g of v e r m i c u l i t e for seed starting.

We'll get to seed starting in the next chapter.)

T h e next step is to fill the boxes, wetting d o w n the mixed-in layers only as y o u fill it. O n c e the b o x is full a n d the t o p leveled off, don't pack it d o w n . It will settle just right by itself.

If y o u have any leftover Mel's M i x , p u t it back in the e m p t y bags y o u set aside for reuse. T h a t extra Mel's M i x will c o m e in h a n d y to fill four-packs a n d use for transplants as w e l l as extra to t o p o f f the boxes w h e n the soil level settles. T u r n the bags inside out if y o u w a n t a plain look, label w i t h a marker, and p u t t h e m aside. Since y o u don't really water the m i x until it's in the box, y o u r stored m i x will be fairly dry and lightweight to carry.

To fill other boxes, w o r k w i t h s o m e o n e else to drag the tarp close to the n e w boxes. D o n ' t try to carry shovelfuls of m i x to the b o x as it will spill a n d be wasted. T h i s is precious stuff. ( R e m e m b e r w h a t G r a n d m a always said, "Waste not, w a n t not.") That's also w h y we don't w a t e r the Mel's M i x in the tarp, b u t as y o u are adding it to the b o x — t h a t w a y the remaining material in the tarp doesn't get so heavy that it is hard to drag. As s o o n as y o u a d d your grid to each box, y o u are ready to plant.

Y o u have n o w completed the m o s t important and rewarding step i. L1.JL.U..1 i.

Don't wet the soil any more than

is absolutely necessary; use a fine

spray to reduce any dust. Soil

becomes very heavy when wet,

and it would be difficult to drag

the tarp around your yard.

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The finished Mel's Mix should look in S F G . If y o u followed the formula correctly, and didn't add any of similar to this photo. your existing soil, it will stay loose and friable as long as y o u live and y o u will be so excited and happy. You m a y have to keep one square just for show; visitors to your garden will w a t c h as y o u say, "Just look at this soil as y o u run your hands through it." M a n y of y o u will then add, "Here, y o u try it. Just feel this soil." (But don't become a pest.) An Afterthought

I w a n t to make doubly sure y o u got the message of this chapter, so I'd like to summarize the critical facts about compost. You need blended c o m p o s t m a d e f r o m at least five different ingredients. M i x several different types of c o m p o s t together if y o u b u y y o u r compost. M o s t c o m m e r c i a l c o m p o s t s have o n l y one or t w o ingredients because they are merely leftover waste materials or b y p r o d u c t s from an industrial or c o m m e r c i a l operation. By themselves, they do not m a k e a g o o d ingredient in Mel's M i x .

H o w e v e r , the g o o d news is, if y o u can find at least five of these individual composted materials y o u can mix them together to make a well-rounded blended compost ingredient for your Mel's M i x .

A n d if y o u did your j o b and got a blended c o m p o s t m a d e from at least five major ingredients, y o u will be blessed w i t h the m o s t wonderful garden y o u could ever imagine. And no more work ever.

N . ow we're getting to the interesting and fun part of Square Foot With your grid in place, it's easy to

Gardening.

have a stunning garden by planting

You've learned all of the basics. You've picked the size, shape, and a different crop in every square.

location of your garden. You've built the frames, put in the Mel's Mix, and added the grids. N o w it's time to plant. This chapter is going to instruct you on your plant choices, how to put your seeds in the garden with the proper spacing (it's as easy as Z i p - Z a p , B i n g - B i n g - B i n g —

you'll see), and growing your own transplants for the quickest, most dependable growth.

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Visualize the Harvest

In S F G , begin by visualizing what you want to harvest. This simple step prevents you from planting too much. Picture a large plant like a head of cabbage. T h a t single cabbage will take up a whole square foot so you can only plant one per square foot. It's the same with broccoli and cauliflower. Let's go to the opposite end of the spectrum and think of the small plants like radishes. Sixteen can fit into a single square foot.

It's the same for onions and carrots—sixteen per square foot. (Yet that's a 3-inch spacing between plants, which is exactly the same spacing the seed packet recommends as it says "thin to 3 inches apart.") Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large

T h i n k of these plants as if they were shirt sizes. Shirts come in all four sizes: small, medium, large, and extra large, and so do our plants. It's that simple.

T h e extra large, of course, are those that take up the entire square f o o t — p l a n t s like cabbages, peppers, broccoli, cauliflower, and gerani-ums. N e x t are the large plants—those that can be planted four to a square foot, which equals 6 inches apart. Large plants include leaf lettuce, dwarf marigolds, Swiss chard, and parsley.

Several crops could be 1 per square foot if you let it grow to its full size or it can be planted 4 per square feet if you harvest the outer leaves throughout the season. This category includes parsley, basil, and even the larger heads of leaf lettuce and Swiss chard. Using the S F G method, you snip and constantly harvest the outer leaves of edible greens, so they don't take up as much space as in a conventional garden.

Medium plants come next. T h e y fit nine to every square foot, which equals 4 inches apart. M e d i u m plants include bush beans, beets, and large turnips.

For extra large plants, locate seeds

or plants right in the middle of

your square.

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109

To help keep up with this, y o u may want to copy this chart so y o u always have it handy. Some people even have it laminated so they can take it outdoors without worrying about the weather destroying it.

Another way to get the proper spacing and number per square foot is to be a little more scientific and do a little arithmetic as shown below.

You can see that one, four, nine, or sixteen plants should be spaced an equivalent number of inches apart. This is the same distance the seed packet will say "thin to." Of course we don't have to "thin to" because we don't plant a whole packet of seeds anymore. So if you're planting seeds, or even putting in transplants that you purchased or grew from seed, just find the seed packet or planting directions to see what the distance is for

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

How to Plant Your All New Square Foot Garden 111

For crops that can fit four to a

square foot, divide the square into

four sections and poke a hole in the

middle of each section.

Plant seeds—just a pinch of two or

three seeds depending on size—into

the holes you poked into the squares.

thinning. This distance then determines whether you're going to plant one, four, nine, or sixteen plants.

Just because we're talking about measuring in inches doesn't mean you have to get out your ruler or yardstick, and you don't have to do any complicated measuring or figuring either. This is when the grid becomes handy. W h e n your square foot is bordered by a grid, it's much easier to think one, four, nine, or sixteen plants in each square foot.

All you do is draw lines in the soil with your fingers! For one plant per square foot just poke a hole in the middle of the square with your finger. For four per square foot, draw a vertical and horizontal line dividing the square in half each way. T h e plants go right in the center of these four smaller squares.

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How Much to Plant

I recommend, especially at the beginning, that you plant only what you want to eat. Occasionally try something new, of course, but especially at first only grow those vegetables and herbs that you normally eat.

Remember, plant each adjoining square foot with a different crop.

W h y ? Here are several reasons:

1. It prevents you from overplanting any one particular item.

2. It allows you to stagger your harvest by planting one square foot this week and another of the same crop in two weeks or so.

3. It promotes conservation, companion planting, crop rotation, and allows better plant hygiene and reduced pest problems.

4. It automatically helps to improve your growing soil three times a year in very easy, small steps. Remember the saying, "Square by square, you'll soon be there."

5. Besides all of the above, it looks pretty.

Just like a patchwork quilt, the different colors, leaf textures, plant densities, shapes, and heights, plus the visible grid will give you a very distinctive, photo-opportunity garden. You'll just love and admire it everytime you see it.

Some people ask, " W h y can't we plant all sixteen squares with leaf lettuce or spinach or Swiss chard or whatever we want to plant?" O h , that's going right back to the single-row mentality. Square Foot Gardening begins with visualizing the harvest. It's very difficult to put in four tiny plants of Swiss chard and think that's going to be enough for the whole family, but one square of red and one square of green chard usually is more than most families eat. Proof of the pudding .. .

h o w many bunches of Swiss chard did you buy last week or even last month? T h e stores have it, it's fresh, and it looks good, so w h y didn't you buy any more than you did? Well, it's the same answer as to w h y you shouldn't plant too much of one thing.

It's worth repeating here that the biggest problem for single-row gardeners has always been "I planted too much. I can't take care of it. It's too much work and I'm sorry now." All that has changed with S F G and you now have boundaries (the grid) and the opportunity to ask yourself,

"For every single square foot I plant, is that enough? Do I really want more? W o u l d it be better to plant another square foot of the same thing in a week or two or three?"

Time of Year

Keep in mind that you can build a Square Foot Garden anytime of the year—spring, summer, fall, and even winter. For most of the country, you could start planting in any season odier than winter. W h a t time of

How to Plant Your All New Square Foot Garden

the year is it right n o w for y o u and where are y o u in the sequence of a yearly gardening cycle? T h i n k of it like the movie theater before the main feature. You're all settled in w i t h your popcorn, ready to devote your full attention to the movie. In the gardening year, this is usually the equivalent of springtime. W h a t if you came in the middle of the picture?

For gardening that w o u l d be summertime. You can still plant a w a r m -

weather crop even if you missed the spring crop. If it's now fall, you can still start your S F G with a great cool-weather crop and get some valuable experience before next spring. Start whenever you get the urge to plant.

For convenience, we'll start with the beginning of the garden year for most of the country, springtime. (Some parts of the country, like Texas and Florida, can grow all year long. You lucky people.)

Seasonal Plants

You can get at least three crops a year in every

square foot of your S F G . Every choice is going

to be fun, exciting, and tasty. Of course, your

selection depends on the time of year, and what

you and your family need and want. There are

two types of crops w h e n y o u consider weather.

T h e first are called cool-weather crops that do

best in the spring and fall, but won't survive in

the hot summer. T h e second group is the w a r m -

or hot-weather crops that, y o u guessed it, don't

do well in the cool weather of spring and fall,

but thrive in the hot weather of summer.

Hardiness and Protection with SFG

SFG's size makes it very easy to protect your new

plantings from an extra early or late frost. There's

a lot more information about frosts and freezes

in Chapter 9, especially if y o u are interested in

extending the season, as well as ways to protect your

plants so you can get more from your garden.

Plants aren't all the same, of course. T h e y are

just like people. Some can stand the heat, cold, or

humidity better than others. We classify these as

hardy, and those that can't handle it as non-hardy.

Each of the four seasons has three time p e r i o d s —

the early season, midseason, and late season. If

you're thinking about a spring crop, for example,

there may be some vegetables that can only grow in the mid-part of the spring while others can tolerate a little more cold in the beginning of the season, but can't stand any heat at all near the late part of the season. It

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takes a little while to get used to which is which, and h o w best they fit in with your planting schedule.

T h o u g h the weather is never exactly the same every year, it helps to k n o w a plant's hardiness. Don't w o r r y — y o u ' l l learn it in time. T h i s is not an exact science so relax if you're a beginner and just enjoy the ride. Don't expect to find a perfect list because h o w well plants thrive differs in different parts of the country and of course, different years, sometimes for no explainable reason. If you lose a few squares of something one year it's no big deal. It doesn't mean you're not going to be a great gardener.

Frost Dates

Although people like to celebrate the first day of spring (March 20th) according to the calendar, plants don't give a hoot about our calendar—

they respond to weather. In the spring we need to know the date of the last frost in our area. T h a t will help us determine when to plant. Each different crop—whether cool-season or warm-season—will need to be planted so many weeks before or after that last day of frost.

For plants, the fall growing season begins not w i t h the first calendar day of fall (September 23rd), but w i t h the first frost and continues until the first freeze of the fall. T h e average dates of your first and last frost depend on where y o u live in the country and the regional and local variations of weather. All we can do is go by the past and hope it will be similar this year. To help, the government collects dates for your area and calculates the average date from the past 100 years. Of course, the average is only a guide.

H o w do you find your local frost dates? T h e Internet is the best resource for detailed information. You can also call your local county extension agent or most area nurseries. To find your local extension agent, look in the Government blue pages for your county in your telephone book, then look for the heading "Extension of [your state] University."

Frost Date Websites

You can access your frost dates on any number

of websites, by entering "frost dates" in the

search engine. T h e best one I've found is

www.victoryseeds.com/hardzone. T h i s Internet site has the frost dates and hardiness

zone maps for the entire United States as well

as Canada, and links for hardiness zones for

Australia, Europe, the Ukraine (in English), and

C h i n a (also in English). T h e hardiness zone

map for the United States is interactive, you just

point to where you live and click, and y o u get

the information. T h i s site also links to your

How to Plant Your All New Square Foot Garden

115

local university extension service. Let the experts advise you on the varieties that will do best in your local area.

Sequence of Growth

a

"You have got me

D i d y o u k n o w that plants grow and b l o o m everywhere in the same

so excited about

sequence? In other words, throughout the country, daffodils b l o o m in the springtime, then a little later tulips b l o o m , then it's time for the

gardening again;

lilacs to bloom. (Did I leave out dandelions?) Start noticing the sequence

I love teaching

in your location. It would include trees, shrubs, flowers, even weeds.

SFG. It is so

I read a b o o k once about following spring north. It's theoretically

much more

possible that if y o u drive fast enough (and eat and sleep quickly), y o u

successful than

could see nothing but tulips in bloom all the way from Georgia to Maine.

If you k n o w what kinds of plants are summer crops (the most

other methods. I

popular and well-known vegetables), it's easy to remember that every-

don't know why

thing else is a spring or fall crop. Summer crops include beans, peppers,

all gardeners and

eggplants, tomatoes, and squash. If y o u plant these w h e n it's too early

farmers aren't

or cool, they'll either die or their growth will most likely be stunted

using it."

for that year.

—Mike from Utah

Charts

I've designed charts for All N e w Square Foot Gardening so you'll k n o w when to plant and in what order. These charts will guide y o u along, providing seed-to-sprouting times at certain soil temperatures. I've also included calendar charts that show, based upon area frost dates (assuming you have a frost), h o w soon before or after a frost y o u can plant a given crop. You'll find that some plants are very frost-hardy and can be planted m u c h earlier than those that are just on the borderline.

Turn to page 2 5 2 to see the charts.

Plan on a Fall Crop

As soon as the summer crop is finished, you're ready to plant cool-weather crops for the u p c o m i n g fall. These crops are frost-hardy, meaning that both young and mature plants withstand frost. T h e seeds you plant at the end of summer will sprout quickly since the soil is warmer. Transplants can begin outdoors and grow much faster than the same thing planted in the spring. L o o k at the charts; compare sprouting times for the same seeds in both spring and summer temperatures.

T h e fall crop gains an extra advantage from late summer weather.

T h e problem with cool-weather plants in the spring is not cool weather but warm weather at harvest time. A plant's purpose in life is to reproduce seed, and the rising temperatures of an approaching summer make this happen sooner. As it does so, the plant's whole character

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changes. M a n y people don't realize that plants like lettuce put up a flower stalk, which then goes to seed. If y o u wait too long to harvest lettuce, the stalk will shoot up, and the same thing happens to other crops like cabbage. T h e head splits open, a stalk shoots up, develops flowers, and then turns to seed. It's nature's way of allowing the plant to reproduce, but the plant changes taste when this happens. All the energy goes toward the seed and the plant itself, as far as taste is concerned, becomes rather tough, coarse, and bitter.

In cooler weather, this process is delayed. T h e plant feels no urgency to complete the growing cycle. So in the fall, the plant slows its maturation process, allowing it to maintain flavor for a longer length of time as temperatures continue to grow cooler and cooler. If it's frost-hardy, it doesn't matter if it is the middle of fall and you start getting frost. Some plants can endure some freezing and still provide a crop for harvesting.

Fall is a great time to plant if you put in the right crops.

Soil Temperature

Soil temperatures vastly influence sprouting times. For example, if you plant carrot seeds in the summertime when the temperature of the soil is between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the seeds will sprout in less than a week. But if you plant the same seeds in early spring when the ground temperature is perhaps 40 degrees, they will take a month and a half to sprout. Just another 10 degrees warmer and they will sprout in a little over two weeks. T h e chart shows that when the soil is cold and freezing, no seeds will sprout. W h e n it warms up to 40 only half of them will sprout; but as soon as it gets to 50 degrees, suddenly almost all of them will sprout and will continue right through the warmer temperatures of summer and fall.

W h a t happens to seeds when they don't sprout because the ground is cold? T h e y could rot, or fungus could attack them. T h e y could break their dormancy and then go dry. T h e y could be attacked by insects, or d u g up by animals or birds. So, the quicker y o u can get them to sprout the better off they will be.

Spring, Summer, and Fall Crops

Some crops, like the cabbage family, take so long to grow that there isn't enough time to plant seeds directly in the garden and wait for the harvest. So you have to buy from nurseries or raise your own transplants indoors ahead of time.

T h e same situation applies to the warm-weather summer crops like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. T h e y take so long to produce that you must plant your garden with transplants. T h e charts show this all in detail, indicating when to start seeds and when to transplant.

How to Plant Your All New Square Foot Garden

111

T h e fall crop is better for raising your own transplants because you will be able to start the seeds in the summertime, raise the transplants outdoors in your garden, and then move them into their permanent spot in the early fall for late fall harvest.

Starting Seeds and Growing Seedlings

There are plenty of advantages to growing your o w n transplants and storing the remaining seeds in their packet until next year. First, seeds cost pennies, while transplants cost dollars. There are many more varieties offered in seed catalogs than as transplants at the nurseries. T h e only setback is time because growing your own transplants depends on the time and work you can spare. If you're a brand new gardener, however, you may want to wait until next year to start your own transplants.

Like everything else in life, we tend to go overboard and do too much and then it becomes a chore. Don't let it happen to you!

Storage of Seeds

Although it's a great idea to start

If your seeds are stored properly, they will last for many years. Contrary your own transplants from seed, this

to what the gardening industry w o u l d like you to believe, it is not is an example of what not to do. It's

necessary to buy fresh seeds every year or to pour out that whole packet not necessary to sow so much when

of seeds all at once. S F G teaches y o u to plant just a pinch of seeds.

you practice the SFG method.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

T h e n store the rest. By planting just a pinch of seeds instead of a whole packet, you can save a lot of money by saving the excess seeds for next year's crop, and the next year's, and so on. Some seeds will last up to five years. Seed companies guarantee that a certain percentage will sprout; this number is always very high, usually up into the nineties. Of course the seed industry wants you to buy a fresh packet of seeds every year so they can stay in business. There's nothing wrong with that! But there's also nothing wrong with saving money with a more efficient system.

How to Store Seeds

W h a t is the ideal storage condition for seeds? It is

just the opposite of the moisture and warmth that

make them sprout. You'll want to store them in a

cool, dry place—the driest, coldest place in your

home. Some people freeze their seeds. But I find

they get moisture even if they are in a zip-lock bag

because it never seems to be totally airtight. I prefer

refrigerating them in a wide-mouth jar with a screw

lid. Label your containers and store them in the

refrigerator on a back shelf. In each jar place a

desiccant packet from a film container, or medicine

vial, or add a little powdered milk wrapped in a

tissue to soak up any excess moisture in the jar.

Germination Rate

W h a t happens to seeds that are in storage? As

they grow older, their germination rate (the

| percentage that sprouts under ideal conditions)

gradually diminishes. But the solution is very

simple. Plant a pinch of seeds—just two to

three—instead of only one to ensure that at least one will sprout. If your seeds are m a n y years old, test the germination rate yourself or just plant three or five or however m a n y seeds depending on h o w well they sprouted the year before. If y o u marked the sprouting rate on the packet, y o u can reasonably estimate h o w m a n y to plant the next year.

What Did I Do Wrong?

Knowing that roots sprout first will help your seeds successfully grow.

Here's why. Traditionally, gardeners hoed open a row, planted, covered, watered, and then walked away from their garden hoping for the best. If nothing grew, single-row gardeners thought the worst: "Maybe they were bad seeds. Or worse, maybe I'm a terrible gardener!" W h a t all of these gardeners did not realize was that the seed might have already sprouted,

How to Plant Your All New Square Foot Garden

119

perhaps after a week or two, and the root was heading down before the top could come up and break the surface. If the gardener gave up and quit watering, it is possible that their seed did die. W h y ? Because if the soil dries below the s e e d — i n the root zone only 1 or 2 inches below the surface—the root will wither and die from lack of moisture. But if the gardener had kept the soil moist, then the seeds would have had a good chance to put the root down to support the plant

and its new shoot.

Keeping Records

M a n y gardeners keep planting d a t a — w h e n , what,

and where they plant, h o w long it takes to sprout,

and h o w well their plants grow. It may sound like

a lot of bookkeeping, yet some people enjoy

recording their garden data and even set up

computerized spreadsheets to make computations

from this information. I don't bother to keep all

these details myself, but if y o u enjoy it, this may

help y o u learn faster and measure the progress

more effectively.

Moving Plants

A S F G garden is small, and I've been able to

change things around once they were all planted. It

doesn't take m u c h to move and replant something

from one square to another if you think it would

look better somewhere else. It's kind of like

arranging a r o o m of furniture and pictures on a

wall. You can make all kinds of layouts and

drawings even to scale, but I guarantee you once

everything is in place, you'll change your mind.

Drop a Pinch

We have learned about seed size and shape and storage and sprouting conditions. T h e next thing is to practice planting. You can do this indoors in the winter before y o u start your garden. Take different kinds of seeds from the tiniest to the largest and practice picking up and dropping a pinch of seeds onto a piece of white paper to count your results. T h i s is really a lot of fun, almost a family game.

There is a very practical reason for doing this. W h e n I tell people to just plant a pinch of seeds—two or t h r e e — I think I have given them all the instructions they need. But I always find so much variation in h o w

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many seeds they end up planting. It's in your finger dexterity, and you may need a little practice. If you are having trouble, you may even want to use a spoon for picking up that pinch of seeds. A white plastic spoon usually works great, especially if you're using darker colored seeds. If y o u scoop up too many, y o u can just shake a few back into the palm of your hand.

How Deep?

H o w deep should you plant a seed? This depends a lot on the size of the seed and the soil y o u plant it in. Generally speaking, a seed's depth is two to four times the thickness of the seed. It's important to place your seeds below a moist surface to prevent it from drying out. T o o close to the surface and it can dry out from the hot sun. O n c e a seed receives moisture and begins sprouting (known as "breaking dormancy"), it will die if it dries out so don't forget to water regularly.

How to Plant Your All New Square Foot Garden

121

Plant seeds 2 to 4 times the depth of

their size. When they've sprouted,

transplant them into four packs.

When they're large enough and the

right time comes, move them into

their own square foot.

Too Deep Isn't a Problem

You don't have to worry too m u c h about placing your seed too deep, in part because your Mel's M i x is loose and friable. If the seed is planted too deep for the kind of seed it is, as soon as it begins to receive moisture, nature will tell it, " G e t going, buddy, put some roots d o w n and start growing." T h a t sprout can push right up through Mel's M i x because there are a lot of nooks and crannies and the soil is very easy to move. This is one of the hidden advantages of starting with perfect soil. It almost guarantees that all of your seeds will grow into plants.

Time to Sprout

H o w long does it take to sprout seeds? T h e chart in the Appendix shows how many days it takes various types of seeds to sprout at various temperatures. In addition, what percentage can you expect to sprout? This chart can be valuable to you and should be used whenever you plant seeds. If you k n o w ahead of time it's going to take 10 days for the seeds to sprout at the average outdoor temperatures, then y o u won't be a nervous Nelly every day wondering when, but you will know to keep that soil moist for those number of days. You can also judge from the percentage that will sprout at that temperature, h o w many extra beyond two or three seeds to plant to ensure one good healthy plant.

Presoaking

Before planting your seeds, give them a jump-start by presoaking them.

While some can be soaked overnight, some fall apart after only an hour; it depends on the seed. Big seeds should be soaked for only about a half hour to an hour. Bean and pea seeds, which might look shriveled up,

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

swell up and break in half if y o u soak them too long. Beware, water makes some seeds slippery. A plastic spoon can help you handle them.

Indoor Seed Sprouting

T h e easiest w a y to sprout seeds indoors is to place them on a moist paper towel. T h e n put the paper towel and seeds in a very shallow tray or dish; keep it moist (a plastic bag w o u l d be handy to maintain moisture) and in a warm place in the house. Check daily; when you see roots, it's time to plant. Rather than handling the seed at this point, carefully cut the paper towel into little squares, and lift each one out with a knife. N o w you're ready to take it outside, plant it in your S F G

filled w i t h Mel's M i x , cover it, and give it a drink of water. You've just given your plant a head s t a r t — i n about half the time. Instead of fourteen days, y o u may see a sprout c o m i n g up in just six.

Starting Transplants Indoors

N o w it's time to decide whether you want to grow your own transplants indoors rather than direct seeding out-of-doors. To raise your o w n seedlings, y o u need a little bit of paraphernalia: Mel's M i x , a few cups and saucers, four-packs, and trays. Start your seeds in a little cup of vermiculite and transplant them into four-packs filled with Mel's M i x after they begin growing.

Seed Leaf

W h e n you're sprouting seeds in a cup of vermiculite, I suggest y o u transplant them into the four-pack as soon as the tops have sprouted and y o u see the first two leaves called the seed leaves. M o s t garden experts say to wait until y o u have two "true" leaves, but I have found that if y o u wait until the set of true leaves develops, the roots have already grown so long and tangled that it's almost too late to transplant.

T h e seed leaf comes first, and it's usually a fairly flat, large leaf that doesn't look like the plant's regular leaves. T h e first set of "true" leaves comes out next as the stem grows higher.

Lift By Its Ears

W h e n the seeds have seed leaves and you're ready to transplant to the four-pack, carefully lift the plant by holding on to one of the seed leaves between two fingers. T h e n with your pencil, dig in the vermiculite, loosen it up, and lift the whole plant o u t — r o o t and a l l — f r o m the bottom while your other hand is holding the top of the plant by one of the seed leaves. Don't touch the plant stem, just the leaf. If the roots are very long, trim off the bottom third w i t h a pair of scissors. Don't worry . . . y o u won't kill the plant. For every root y o u cut off, two n e w roots will sprout as it branches out, creating a much stronger plant.

To start seeds for growing your own

seedlings, poke some holes into the

bottom of a container. (This is a

leftover plastic container shown in

the photo.) Till the container with

vermiculite and pour water around

the rim of the plate.

Add enough water until you notice

a very slight color change to the

vermiculite (it becomes darker).

Pour a few seeds into the palm

of your hand.

Pinch a few seeds with your

thumb and forefinger.

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Sprinkle the seeds across the surface

of the vermiculite.

Cover the seeds with a thin layer of

vermiculite (unless they need light to

germinate; check the seed package).

After the seeds sprout, take your pencil and make a hole in one cell of your four-pack, or outdoors in your garden soil. T h e n lower the plant root down into the hole. Make sure the hole's big enough to hold the whole root. Take the point of the pencil and push the Mel's M i x around the plant. Plant it a little lower than when it sprouted. Give it some water, either from above for outdoors or from below for indoors in four-packs, and then give it shade immediately. Sun will kill that young seedling. In fact, if you're outdoors, always work in your own shadow, then make sure the plant has shade for at least a couple of days. (Refer to Chapter 4 for information about how to build shade cages.) T h e n you can let it have brighter light and then finally full sunlight.

How to Plant Your All New Square Foot Garden

125

Trim the Roots

W h e n y o u place transplants into the garden, take a look at the roots to see if they are rootbound, in other words, if they've grown in a circle.

My solution for a rootbound plant is to take that same pair of scissors and just cut off the bottom roots. Yes, the whole t h i n g — t h e mass of roots and the soil. T h e n all the ends of the roots, wherever they are, will branch and send out little feeder roots. Lower the whole plant into the hole at the proper spacing in your outdoor garden.

You can trim excess roots by snipping

them off with your garden shears.

Push the mix around seedlings to

form a slight saucer shape in the mix.

Because of the saucer shape, water is

directed straight down to the roots.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Water Well

O n e caution: the plant and root should be very wet before y o u transplant into your S F G . Take your four-pack and let it float in a bucket of w a r m water until it sinks and there are no more bubbles c o m i n g up.

That's when you k n o w the plants are totally saturated with water. T h e n take it out, pop each plant out of its container, cut the root bottoms off, and plant it. Your garden soil should be moist, so you're not putting a wet plant into dry ground. D r y ground will suck the moisture right out of THE roots.

Saucer-Shaped Depression

L was surprised

Next, push the soil back around the plant to form a slight saucer shape in the soil. M a k e sure y o u plant at the level of the soil, factoring in the

at how much I

slight depression of the saucer. Because of the saucer shape, water goes

could get from

straight d o w n to the roots. We don't want to water the rest of the

such a small area.'

square foot if we don't have to. How's that for conserving water?

—Michael from Georgia

Outdoor Seed Sprouting

T h e procedure for outdoor seed sprouting, transplanting into 4-packs, watering, and then planting into the garden is all the same, just in m u c h nicer weather. Late afternoon on a cloudy day is the best time.

Hardening Off

Hardening off is the process of getting the plant adjusted to a new e n v i r o n m e n t — l i k e going from indoors to outdoors. It's important that your plants are acclimated gradually so they can get used to their new location and different weather conditions. T h i s requires some effort because y o u don't want them out at night w h e n it's cold or freezing and y o u also don't want them out in the burning hot sun in the daytime.

Regulate Sunlight and Heat

To help harden off plants, regulate the sun exposure. If it's hot out, place your plants out in the sunlight in the morning, but at noontime provide some shade. Let them receive direct sunlight in the early morning, shade at midday, and perhaps, w h e n the sun starts d o w n , a little more direct light in the afternoon. N o w that's really pampering your garden plants. A n d don't forget the little drinks of water every n o w and then. Actually all that sun, then shade, then sun can easily be done with a shingle stuck in the ground at the right place and the right angle.

How to Plant Your All New Square Foot Garden

127

Can't Dry Out

To keep your newly planted seeds from cooking in the hot sun, cover the square with a piece of cardboard cut to fit in the grid. Estimate the soil temperature and sprout time (see the charts in the Appendix), then write the sprout date and the date y o u planted it on the cardboard w i t h a magic marker. W e i g h t d o w n the cardboard to keep it from flying away in the w i n d . Of course, you'll need to lift the cardboard before y o u sprinkle water on the soil surface to keep the soil moist, and then remove it a day or two before the sprout date.

Spacing

H o w many plants will fit into a square foot? T h e numbers are so simple and easy to remember: 1, 4, 9, or 16. If you like math, and w h o doesn't, y o u will recognize right away that these numbers happen to be the squares of 1, 2, 3, and 4. A n d , in addition to the fact that we're gardening in square foot plots, that's h o w Square Foot Gardening got its name

. . . because it's as simple as one, two, three, four. T h e number of plants you grow in a square foot depends on a plant's size when it's fully grown.

(Go to the chart in the Appendix to see mature plant sizes.) You can also figure it out very easily from the "thin to," directions on a seed packet. (Now, every time you read "thin to," you will think of me and say to yourself, " W h y do the seed packets tell me to plant so many seeds only to go back and thin to just one plant?")

If you are planting something

that may need a plant support

later as it gets fully grown,

you might consider other

plants that could share the

same support and plant them

in adjacent squares.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

A Typical Garden

Let's plant one 4 x 4 and see h o w much we will grow in those 16 square feet. We'll start with tall plants on the north side of the box so they don't shade shorter plants. T h e n put some colorful flowers in each corner.

Let's assume it is still springtime, but that we're past the last frost, so we could put four pansies in each corner using our favorite colors.

Carrots require little care until they're harvested. So let's plant two squares of different carrots in the center squares, one square of sixteen onions and a low-maintenance square of sixteen radishes in the center.

T h e n we'll put one square of nine beets in an outside square because we'll harvest their leaves during the season and then finally pull the beet bottoms later. We can plant two or three varieties of leaf lettuce on the outside, depending on your tastes. In another square we could put sixteen chives, and four parsley plants in another, which would provide us a continual harvest. For more color we might want to put a square of red salvia along the back. A n d perhaps in one corner some dwarf dahlias, one per square foot. Or perhaps some nasturtiums spaced at one per square foot. O n e of the first things we would have planted in die spring is one or two squares of spinach, nine per square foot. T h e n depending on your family's taste we could have one or more squares from the cabbage family. T h a t could be red or green cabbage, broccoli, or cauliflower. Keep in m i n d this is not the only 4 x4 in the whole garden. So we don't have to put all the cabbage into one S F G . It's better to space them out throughout the garden—makes it harder for the cabbage moth to find them all.

Plans and Drawings

Remember I mentioned that some people feel a desire to think ahead and draw up a list of everything to be planted in their garden. T h e n there are even some people w h o want to assign those plants to spaces ahead of time. So it means drawing a chart, more or less to scale, of your garden and assigning those particular crops to each square foot. Despite being an engineer, w h o loves charts and diagrams, I don't usually do that. I just like to plant as I see fit. It's very easy to stand in the garden and as the square becomes vacant y o u just look around and decide it's time to plant another square of radishes. Or maybe you'd like to have some more beans, but this time you'll put in the yellow variety instead of green. It's also very easy to spot and plant where you'd like some color. I find it very easy to just bring home a four-pack of flowers I liked at the nursery and decide by looking at the garden where they would look best.

But it's your Square Foot Garden, and you should do whatever makes you happy.

How to Plant Your All New Square Foot Garden

129

Replanting

Keep in m i n d that, as soon as you harvest, it won't be a big deal to replant because you're going to do it one square foot at a time. O n c e your newly planted garden starts maturing in the spring—for example, that square foot of radishes will be ready to harvest in four weeks—you'll be ready to replant just that one square. T h e season has changed and it's warmer, and most of your summer crops can now be planted. So your choices have increased and also most of the summer crop is fairly long-lived and will be in that spot through the whole summer season. As you replant you keep the same criteria in mind—taller plants on the north side to keep them from shading other plants, working your w a y to cascading flowers on the front corners to look pretty. Place plants that don't need much attention and only occasional harvesting like peppers on the inside, and shorter plants and those that need constant care or harvest to the outside just to make them easier to tend.

Weeding

This could be the shortest paragraph in the entire book. To start with, your Mel's M i x has no weed seeds in it, and any weeds that do sprout This is a good example of a

are easily observed because they're not in the proper space and they look rootbound container plant. You'll

different from the plants that are there. Because the soil is so soft and want to trim the matted roots before

friable weeds come out easily—root and all. You have to weed about planting. (Don't worry, it's better for

once a month. End of paragraph; end of story.

the plants anyway.)

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Harvesting

Keep in m i n d that we harvest many of the crops continuously, if possible. For example, a leaf lettuce is not allowed to wait until it forms a large, mature head, but with a pair of scissors and a salad bowl you can continuously trim the leaves from such things as lettuce, chives, beets, Swiss chard, spinach, parsley, and even onion tops. As long as you don't take too m u c h at one time, the plant will easily survive and thrive.

Filling your salad bowl each day should not diminish the garden in any way. In fact, right after you harvest you'll find it hard to notice where you got everything and if anything is missing.

You've Learned the Basics

You've n o w learned all the basics of Square Foot Gardening. You've learned h o w it got its n a m e — f r o m the squares of one, two, three, four.

You have also learned h o w many and what kind of plants fit into a square foot by memorizing, calculating, or by looking it up on the chart.

You've learned h o w to zip zap in the soil to get the proper and exact spacing then start planting your seeds and transplants. Are we having any fun yet? N e x t chapter we're going to discuss h o w to maintain and harvest your S F G .

Okay, n o w it's time to go out to your garden and do something outrageous that will amaze or d u m b f o u n d any neighbor w h o might be watching you. Do y o u k n o w h o w to do a rain dance?

GROWING AND HARVESTING

• Don't walk on your

growing mix

• Only three tools needed

• Support your plants

• Weeds and other pests

are not a problem

• Water the right way

J.his is going to be a fairly short chapter because S F G requires so little m a i n t e n a n c e o n c e y o u r garden is prepared and planted.

You'll experience a c o n t i n u o u s cycle of n u r t u r i n g , harvesting, a n d replanting each year w i t h no soil preparation a n d no w e e d i n g to d o ever again. H o w does that sound?

A l l o f the n u r t u r i n g y o u ' l l n e e d t o d o consists o f p r o v i d i n g necessary structural s u p p o r t for plants, r i d d i n g the garden of a n y tiny, occasional weeds or pests, and watering. You'll enjoy observing your garden's growth until harvest; every square is different because it was planted w i t h a different crop at a different time. That's w h a t makes S F G so interesting.

Care

W h e n asked to n a m e the greatest advantage of the All N e w Square Foot Gardening, most say it's tending their garden from aisles and

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

never stepping on their soil. Like m a n y others, I always w o n d e r e d w h y we were taught to loosen soil with rototillers, shovels, forks, and hoes, only to walk all over it again packing it d o w n .

So w h y are the experts still teaching us to do this? I say, just stop walking on your growing soil—it's that simple.

Keep It Loose

Let's think of some of the advantages of not packing your soil d o w n .

T h e plant roots need air and moisture, just like people. If y o u pack the soil d o w n , it b e c o m e s m o r e and m o r e compressed (called compaction) and it becomes harder and harder for air to circulate through the soil m a k i n g it more difficult for roots to grow. T h e y m a y not die, but they certainly won't grow well. So w h y not provide them w i t h nice, loose, friable soil like Mel's Mix? T h i s way, water can percolate d o w n and air can circulate.

These are the only tools you need for

your All New Square Foot Garden.

A trowel a pencil, and scissors—

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133

Three Tools

A n o t h e r big advantage of S F G is that the n u m b e r and cost of tools is reduced to almost n o t h i n g — y o u will o n l y need three tools. Just think, y o u no longer need a rototiller! Eliminate that cost a n d y o u n o w have an extra $ 1,000 in your pocket. A n d y o u don't have to hire s o m e o n e at $50 every year to p l o w for y o u . Y o u don't even n e e d a shovel or rake or a n y of those special d i g g i n g tools that have been invented to d i g up the t o u g h soil. G a r d e n i n g "experts" will tell y o u to go o u t a n d b u y the best tools y o u can find because they will last longer, but they also cost more. W i t h S F G , y o u no longer need any of those big, expensive, heavy-duty tools that take so m u c h energy to maneuver—they're suddenly obsolete.

A Trowel, A Pencil, and Scissors

T h e first tool of the three tools y o u need is a

trowel. I've f o u n d that the one-dollar variety is

really the best buy. They're attractive, strong, and

neat looking. T h e y have all the features of a six

dollar trowel. So instead of just one, n o w y o u can

afford s i x — o n e for every S F G box! W h y not b u y an assortment of colors? Y o u can have one in every

box just sitting there waiting so that y o u don't have

to go looking for a tool w h e n y o u w a l k by and see a square that is ready for replanting. Of course, if

y o u see an occasional weed, your big, strong weeding tools are your o w n t h u m b and forefinger!

T h e trowel is for transplanting, for m i x i n g in an added trowel full of c o m p o s t w h e n y o u replant each square foot, a n d for loose n i n g up a n d t u r n i n g over the Mel's M i x in an individual square foot or even an entire 4 x 4 . In the spring y o u won't believe h o w perfect the soil w i l l be if y o u follow the Mel's M i x f o r m u l a a n d start w i t h a perfect soil.

T h e other t w o tools you'll need are a pencil (yes, that's a tool) for p o k i n g holes and lifting o u t y o u n g seedlings for transplanting, and a pair of scissors for harvesting beet, lettuce, or Swiss chard leaves for supper, cutting off dead blossoms, and snipping off extra seedlings if more than one seed sprouts in a hole. Because S F G tools are so simple and inexpensive, I love to splurge and keep one of each at every 4 x 4 . T h a t way, I never have to l o o k for a tool.

It w o u l d be fun to list all the tools that y o u no longer need if y o u have a S F G . In fact, y o u could probably just go into your garage or toolshed and see t h e m all right t h e r e — p o o r , lonely tools. M a y b e y o u have some old-fashioned single-row friends w h o just can't give up all

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

that hard w o r k and could use some extra heavy-duty tools. Y o u could rent t h e m out and maybe make a few bucks.

PENNY PIN (HER Optional Acccessory

You can even make your own

A l t h o u g h y o u o n l y need three tools, y o u

kneeling pad out of scrap carpeting.

m i g h t w a n t to invest in a kneeling pad.

If you have some leftover indoor/

Unless y o u r boxes are placed on tabletops,

outdoor carpeting, it won't matter if it

y o u r m o s t frequent position w h i l e gardening

gets wet; it dries quickly and folds up

will be kneeling. For less than four dollars,

nicely to make a great kneeling pad. It

y o u can b u y a kneeling pad that is comfortable

wouldn't hurt to have a few of these

and durable. There's no need to b u y the fancy

pads scattered throughout your SFG.

ones that strap to y o u r knees. They're terribly

They are available as scrap or samples

uncomfortable and will end up h a n g i n g in y o u r

at any place carpeting is sold.

tool shed a l o n g w i t h the other lonely tools.

W e e d s

S F G has few or no weeds. B u t how? W e e d s plague every garden, right? First, there are no w e e d seeds in peat moss or vermiculite.

N e x t , a n y seeds that were in the ingredients y o u a d d e d to the c o m p o s t pile will get c o o k e d a n d killed in that 1 5 0 degrees Fahrenheit temperature as the pile heats u p . If y o u prepare the bed properly and line the b o t t o m of the box with landscape fabric, no weeds will sprout f r o m the b o t t o m . Since we are not using our g r o u n d soil, w h i c h is filled w i t h weeds, the o n l y possible w e e d seeds in our S F G m i g h t have b l o w n in, and as s o o n as they sprout, von will see rhem because rhev are nnr of nlare Your rwn fincrers First, remove any weeds or grass

from inside your box, then lay down

landscape fabric as a weed barrier.

This will be your "best friend"

against future weeds.

Growing and Harvesting

135

will do the rest, p u l l i n g o u t the w e e d , roots a n d all. C o m p a r e that t o w h a t you've experienced w i t h y o u r existing soil. A n y t i m e the existing soil a n y w h e r e in the c o u n t r y is left alone, it sprouts weeds.

W h i c h system w o u l d y o u like t o have i n y o u r backyard?

I See You

H o w can y o u tell if a n e w sprout is a weed? First, it's n o t in the proper space a m o n g y o u r little transplants. R e m e m b e r one, four, nine, a n d sixteen.

If it is o u t of place (and I'll bet y o u were careful to make sure y o u r spaces were correct in that square foot), you'll pull it out of that soft Mel's M i x w i t h o u t a problem.

Pests and Plant Problems

T h e o n l y w a y t o intelligently answer the questions w e get a b o u t pests a n d plant p r o b l e m s requires k n o w i n g the weather, g r o w i n g conditions, history, and present gardening condition in an area. If the question came from my county, I'd give a great answer. B u t w h e n it comes from across the country or anywhere in the world, it's difficult to give an accurate answer.

County Extension Agents

U

T h e r e is a g o o d solution. S o m e of our tax dollars go to train a n d

I've lived my

maintain a staff of horticultural experts in every county in the country

life doing the

— t h e c o u n t y extension service agents. I n addition, the c o u n t y

backbreaking

extension agents train another g r o u p of n e i g h b o r h o o d volunteers

work of single

called " M a s t e r G a r d e n e r s , " w h o then g o o u t i n the c o m m u n i t y helping others by answering their questions. It is a great service, and

row gardening—

we often refer questions to the agents and their staff. If y o u r question

this is so much

is about pests or problems or even the best varieties to grow in your

better!"

area, y o u couldn't find a more informative source. To find your local

—Gina from Kentucky

extension agent, l o o k in y o u r p h o n e b o o k in the G o v e r n m e n t blue pages, find y o u r county, and then l o o k for the heading "Extension of (your state) University," don't l o o k under "Agriculture."

T h e only problem I have w i t h the county agents is that most of t h e m are trained in our agricultural colleges, w h i c h still teach single-row farming and h a n d - m e - d o w n gardening. So, they are not the best source for answers to S F G questions. You'll have to c o m e to us for those questions.

To summarize pests and problems, try not to w o r r y about them.

E n j o y y o u r garden. If o n e square gets devastated, pull it up a n d replant it w i t h s o m e t h i n g else. If y o u didn't use the protective structures of Chapter 4, try t h e m out next season to help eliminate your problems.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Which Plant Varieties?

Q u i t e often people will ask questions like, " W h i c h are the best varieties of potatoes or carrots to g r o w in my corner of the state?"

T h e s e questions can o n l y be answered by y o u r local e x p e r t — t h e c o u n t y extension agent. T h e y are always up-to-date on all the n e w varieties and what grows best in their area. Keep in m i n d if y o u have a question about any of the vine crops, y o u will w a n t to train them to a trellis, while most single-row gardens allow them to sprawl.

Notice how easily vine crops such as

pole beans climb the trellis netting

all by themselves. Other vine crops,

such as tomatoes, need a little help

from you each week.

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137

Support Your Local Plants

S o m e plants, such as root crops and low-growing salad crops, need no support, so there is n o t h i n g to do for them. T h e taller crops m i g h t need a little help, however, depending on whether they are a leaf or head crop like Swiss chard or cabbage. If a heavy w i n d and rain or hailstorm knocks t h e m over, simply straighten t h e m up and push a little extra soil around the stem.

Too Top Heavy

T h e plants that usually n e e d a little s u p p o r t are the s u m m e r crops like peppers, okra, eggplant, c o r n , a n d b u s h t o m a t o e s . T h o s e can easily be s u p p o r t e d by u s i n g a U - s h a p e d w i r e s u p p o r t cage or horizontal fencing or netting suspended across the entire 4 x4 garden, held tight by four corner posts. (See C h a p t e r 4 for c o n s t r u c t i o n details.) T h e same s u p p o r t t e c h n i q u e will also w o r k for tall flowers like gladiolus, giant marigolds, a n d tall dahlias. O n e of the reasons we provide plant s u p p o r t is the soil m i x is so loose a n d friable that the tall plants need a little help.

Watering

Plants need water just like people do. Everyone asks, " H o w do y o u water and h o w m u c h ? " My ideal w a y to water is ladling o u t a cup of sun-warmed water from a bucket that can be left in the sun next to your garden. G e n d y lift the b o t t o m leaves of the plant and, w i t h y o u r other hand, ladle a cup of that water into the depression around the plant. W i t h a saucer-shaped depression in the soil, the water will soak right d o w n to the roots instead of rolling away from the plant into other parts of the garden.

W e d o get a few people w h o say, " O h that w o u l d take t o o l o n g . " B u t they've failed to t h i n k a b o u t the fact that, first, their garden is o n l y a fraction of the size that it used to be. T h a t means 80 percent of the w a t e r i n g y o u used to do is no longer n e e d e d and was actually wasted. N e x t , you're n o t w a t e r i n g the tops of the plants or the leaves, so you're n o t p r o m o t i n g fungal diseases a n d other p r o b l e m s . You're k e e p i n g the water w h e r e it will do the m o s t g o o d — a r o u n d the base of the plant where it can travel d o w n to the root system.

T h e soil consistency of your Mel's M i x is already 100 percent of materials that hold moisture. W h e n y o u water, it goes right into the soil around the root system and stays there. T h e root system is g o i n g to be able to drink up the water w h e n and in the a m o u n t needed.

Is this a major advance in water conservation or what? H e l l o , conservationist, are y o u listening?

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

When your plants need a drink,

just dip a cup of water from your

5-gallon bucket of sun-warmed

water, and pour it in the saucer-

shaped depression.

A n d w h y sun-warmed water? O n e answer is that it's for the same reason people don't like to take a cold shower. T h e more scientific reason is plants can absorb nutrients in the soil m u c h faster and grow better if the soil and water temperature are warmer. In spring and late fall, sun-warmed water helps w a r m the soil. R e m e m b e r the chart in the Appendix showing sprouting times in various temperatures. T h e warmer the weather, the faster they'll grow and the quicker you'll harvest. That's w h y people have greenhouses. If y o u build a structure to form a miniature greenhouse around your S F G , the radiant heat from the sun will w a r m the soil from the surface d o w n . But simply pouring w a r m (not hot) water into the soil means the warmth tends to go a little d e e p e r — a n d even q u i c k e r — t h a n the sun baking the surface of the soil.

Don't Drown Me

Invariably gardeners water plants too m u c h , perhaps out of kindness or fear that they will fail. So they think, " O h , I'll give it a little extra.

It won't hurt." Usually it did hurt with local soil that didn't drain well, but it won't if y o u have a Square Foot Garden where the soil drains excess water. M o s t people don't realize that plant roots need air as well as moisture. L u c k y for y o u , Mel's M i x allows air into it because it's loose and friable. (Chapter 5 tells y o u h o w to make Mel's Mix.) W i t h Mel's M i x y o u cannot overwater. R e m e m b e r the sponge?

Each little piece can hold moisture so a plant root can grow around that piece and take out the moisture w h e n needed. W h e n that little sponge gets saturated, the rest of the water drains right out through the b o t t o m . That's h o w Mel's M i x works, and that's w h y y o u never have to w o r r y about giving your plants too m u c h water.

But because your soil mix drains readily w h e n saturated, it also has a tendency to dry out quicker than most garden soils. Regular

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139

soils stay saturated, so single-row gardeners m a y be used to turning on the sprinkler or flooding the garden twice a w e e k a n d that's it.

Your All N e w Square Foot G a r d e n is different. Y o u have to water a little more often and pay more attention to watering.

T h e secret, of course, is l o o k i n g at the plants. After a while you'll be able to walk past your 4 x4 garden b o x and immediately spot any square foot that needs water. Perhaps the plants will be slightly wilted. M a y b e they'll be just a little d r o o p y or their color will be a little off. Y o u merely water those square feet right then a n d there because y o u r b u c k e t of w a r m water is always right next to y o u r garden. A n d because you're d i p p i n g a c u p in the b u c k e t you're n o t going to get yourself all wet and dirty.

T h i n k of y o u r plants in y o u r garden the same as y o u do y o u r children. If they've been o u t in the h o t sun a n d playing hard a n d one of t h e m looks a little d r o o p y a n d wilted, y o u k n o w right a w a y to inspect the child a little closer to m a k e sure he or she is properly hydrated.

i i I i i i I I I

With Mel's Mix you cannot

overwater. I repeat: you

cannot overwater.

Nurture Your Plants

I suggest watering by h a n d because it allows y o u the time to nurture y o u r plants. You're able to stop a n d notice h o w y o u r plants are growing. Y o u can appreciate their beauty a n d color, notice their blossoms and fruit. It tells y o u w h e n the plant is going to be ready for harvest. It's a satisfying feeling to w o r k in your garden w i t h each plant. You're n o t standing off in the distance w i t h a hose, w h i c h is very impersonal. You're n o t o p e n i n g a b i g valve a n d letting the sprinkler system take over or the irrigation water c o m e in. ( A n d guess what? Irrigation water is filled w i t h w e e d seeds. H a v e y o u folks w h o live in states that irrigate ever w o n d e r e d w h y y o u have to w e e d your single-row garden so often?) Even a drip irrigation system is i m p e r s o n a l — t h o u g h , I must admit, efficient.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Too Much

Existing w a t e r i n g systems give all different types a n d sizes of plants the same a m o u n t of water at the same time. T h i s is n o t o n l y very impersonal; it's also very inefficient. If our farmers did that we'd have water shortages all a r o u n d the country. Hey, w a i t a m i n u t e , we do have water shortages all around the country!

How Much

In conclusion, only water as m u c h as each plant needs. A n d the best w a y to tell is f r o m e x p e r i e n c e — t h e same w a y y o u k n o w y o u r child needs a drink. Yes, it does take a little bit of experience to raise a family, but gaining this experience brings a lot of pleasure.

Alternate Watering Methods

A Hose

For those w h o w a n t to use a more traditional m e t h o d , there is always the hose. Yes, it's a nuisance to get o u t or p u t away, a n d in row gardening it always seemed to be k n o c k i n g plants d o w n as it has to be dragged around the garden. A n o t h e r advantage to S F G boxes is the hose won't do that anymore as the b o x corners keep the hose from crushing the plants.

If y o u do use a hose, m a k e sure y o u have o n e of those shut-off valves right at the e n d of the hose so y o u have c o m p l e t e control of the force a n d a m o u n t of the water. T h e r e are m a n y short a n d l o n g extension h a n d wands that c o m e w i t h a spray nozzle. T h i s also allows y o u to water directly under your plants, and the nozzle on the end of the w a n d can be p o k e d d o w n and w o r k e d around the lower leaves of the plant so that most of the plant remains dry.

Leave an extra length of hose coiled in the sun to help w a r m the water up a little, m a y b e just to take the chill off tap water, b u t y o u have to be careful at the start if it's h o t o u t a n d a hose full of water has been laying in the sun for some time. Y o u don't w a n t the water to be too hot. Do w h a t y o u do w h e n giving the baby a b o t t l e — t e s t the water on your wrist.

Drip, Drip, Drip

A very efficient w a y to water y o u r S F G is w i t h a drip irrigation system. I k n o w it w a s designed for r o w gardeners, b u t it can be adapted for S F G just as easily. T h e only problem I have is it sort of takes away the nurturing and close attention paid to y o u r plants. If y o u just turn a valve or worse yet, a mechanical timer turns the water on and off, y o u never get close to your plants and they will miss y o u .

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141

B u t I m u s t a d m i t the w a t e r i n g gets d o n e very efficiently a n d effectively Try r u n n i n g small soaker tubes spaced every 6 inches the length of your b o x for complete coverage of every square foot.

Lawn Sprinkler Systems

S o m e people tell me they have located their S F G on the lawn, and they have an u n d e r g r o u n d sprinkler system that goes on a n d off automatically. W h a t should they d o , they ask? W h a t can y o u d o — r i p up the lawn or turn off the system? N o , y o u just live w i t h it. I tell them to m a k e do w i t h w h a t they have and just keep a bucket or t w o around for special plants as needed.

Harvest

Harvesting your crop is the culmination of the gardening experience.

T h e harvest s h o u l d be a joyful a n d exciting t i m e because, after all, this is w h y you're growing all these plants in the first place.

Too Much

T h e problem w i t h traditional gardening is that there is too m u c h to harvest all at o n c e . If y o u plant an entire r o w of s o m e t h i n g all at once, it's all g o i n g to be ready to harvest all at once, and it becomes an overwhelming task. N o t so great for the h o m e gardener w h o just wants dinner tonight, not a month's w o r t h of lettuce in one day. So, after the first few pickings, the rest becomes all drudgery.

Control That Planting

Everything is different w i t h a S F G . N o w , every time y o u b e g i n to plant something in y o u r S F G , l o o k the item up in your S F G b o o k to find h o w m a n y to plant per square foot. Prepare the soil, s m o o t h it out, do the zip, zap, bing, bing, bing, b i n g to mark the spacing. N o w , select the varieties y o u w a n t f r o m y o u r seeds, p o u r s o m e into the palm of one hand, and plant a pinch in each hole. As y o u s m o o t h the soil over the seeds, water w i t h a fine spray. T h e n ask yourself, " D o I want any more than sixteen radishes all at once? They'll be ready in four weeks and they'll all c o m e to harvest w i t h i n one week." Usually the answer is " N o . I really don't w a n t any more than this. I'll wait a w e e k or t w o to plant another square foot of radishes s o m e w h e r e else." Right then and there y o u can see one of the huge advantages of y o u r grid establishing boundaries a n d S F G giving y o u a u t o m a t i c c o n t r o l — s i m p l e a n d easy.

R e m e m b e r that the S F G t h e o r y is to visualize the harvest. A s k yourself, " H o w m u c h d o I n e e d for o n e o r t w o weeks?" T h e n o n l y plant that m u c h . It takes a b o u t a m i n u t e .

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

A Little of This, A Little of That

Y o u don't have to wait for the plant to mature to its m a x i m u m size.

Go out at harvest time (which m i g h t be a half an hour before lunch or dinner) w i t h y o u r pair of scissors and a small basket or salad bowl, a n d cut off a few outer leaves, perhaps o n e f r o m each plant. To harvest a varied salad, just take four lettuce leaves, parsley leaves from another, a n d perhaps beet greens f r o m another. E a c h square m a y c o n t a i n a different variety a n d color of lettuce. Y o u m i g h t pull o n e radish a n d o n e carrot, even t h o u g h they've o n l y g r o w n to half size, wash t h e m off in your bucket of sun-warmed water, put the tops in the c o m p o s t bin, a n d then c o n t i n u e a r o u n d y o u r Square F o o t G a r d e n taking just a little bit here and a little bit there of this and that. S o o n your harvest basket is full and y o u l o o k at your garden and cannot even see that anything is missing.

Snip, Snip

1 had always

C o n t i n u a l l y harvest any type of leafy vegetable—like leaf lettuce or Swiss c h a r d — b y snipping a little here and a little there throughout

been a little afraid

the season. T h i s can't go on forever because the plant, especially cool

of composting,

weather plants, will eventually go to seed. W h e n it sends up a seed

but Mel makes

stalk, the plant has c o m p l e t e d its g r o w i n g season a n d its use for

everything so

harvesting. Take one last harvest, remove what's left over, and prepare

logical and easy

that square foot for replanting—unless y o u w a n t the kids to see h o w a lettuce or radish plant produces seed.

to understand."

—Karen from Utah

Harvest and Replant

W i t h Square Foot Gardening, you're only dealing w i t h one square foot at a time. To paraphrase the words of Dr. Robert Schuller, "Inch by inch, anything's a c i n c h . " W i t h S F G , our saying is g o i n g to be

"square by square, you'll soon be there." As s o o n as y o u finish harvesting o n e square foot, it's time to prepare the soil a n d plant a n e w crop. Just take out any debris like dead leaves, stems, or r o o t s —

y o u can place these in your compost b i n — t h e n add a trowel full of c o m p o s t (hopefully it's homemade) to the square, turn the soil over w i t h the trowel, s m o o t h it over, and you're ready to replant. Y o u can do all of that in 60 seconds!

Replanting

N o w it's getting m o r e interesting and fun because y o u will be able to choose w h a t y o u w a n t to replant in every single square foot all t h r o u g h the garden season. R e m e m b e r , y o u can get at least three crops a year in every square foot. S o , m u l t i p l y y o u r n u m b e r of square feet by three a n d there are a lot of choices to make! Every

Growing and Harvesting

143

choice is g o i n g to be fun, exciting, and interesting. Of course, w h a t y o u select depends a lot on w h a t time of the year it is and w h a t y o u can use and enjoy.

A Little Now

W h e t h e r you're planting, harvesting, maintaining, or watering y o u don't need hours and hours to enjoy your garden. Because y o u can do a litde bit here and a little bit there, y o u can do it anytime of the d a y — e v e n on y o u r w a y o u t the door! If y o u see a few tiny weeds growing, pluck t h e m out; give a drink of water to any plants that appear a little d r o o p y or w i l t e d (remember y o u r b u c k e t of sun-w a r m e d water is right there a n d so is y o u r trowel if y o u n e e d to loosen the soil). It's like straightening a crooked picture as y o u w a l k d o w n the hall, jotting a note to someone w h o will be c o m i n g h o m e soon, or putting something away in the refrigerator. These are things y o u can do right then and there. A n d they're fun things to do. No heavy work. No getting all dirty and sweaty.

A Wonder

If y o u r garden is close to the b a c k d o o r or k i t c h e n door, you'll probably use it m u c h more. You'll enjoy the fresh greens and salad more often, eat healthier, a n d feel better. S F G c o u l d be part of a weight-loss p r o g r a m , i f y o u ask me! O n t o p o f all that, you'll have fun d o i n g it! D o n ' t forget to share the fun w i t h your spouse, children, or g r a n d c h i l d r e n — t h e w o n d e r of g r o w t h a n d harvest is priceless.

Harvest a few small plants w i t h a child, and that child will remember the experience forever.

Next Crop

W h e n the s u m m e r is finished, you're ready to plant a fall crop, w h i c h will be a cool-weather crop. Go through the w h o l e quick process of picking o u t any debris, adding a trowel full of compost, m i x i n g it in, s m o o t h i n g it over, and deciding what's next. T h e r e goes another minute out of y o u r busy life. H o w about spinach? C h e c k the spacing, get the seeds out, soak t h e m for a little w h i l e , p o p t h e m in the g r o u n d , s m o o t h t h e m over, water, a n d you're all finished. A n o t h e r m i n u t e g o n e , b u t y o u are creating life. You've n o w planted three crops in o n e square foot in o n l y o n e year. Y o u started w i t h a root crop, replaced it w i t h a fruit crop, and finally, in the fall, added a leaf crop. In addition, y o u practiced soil improvement three times in one year—square by square.

1H ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Rotation Not Critical

T h e nice thing about S F G is y o u are also practicing crop rotation w i t h o u t even k n o w i n g it. C r o p rotation is very i m p o r t a n t in traditional row gardening w h e n dealing with existing soils that have very few nutrients in t h e m — n u t r i e n t s that can quickly be depleted by planting and replanting the same crop year after year in the same soil. W h e n y o u begin gardening with a healthy, rich soil like Mel's M i x , crop rotation is really not critical. Mel's M i x gives y o u a garden soil that is 33 percent compost, w h i c h has all the nutrients and trace elements that plants need. But crop rotation is still a g o o d idea for insect and pest control in addition to soil nutrients. If y o u grow the same t h i n g c o n t i n u o u s l y in the same place, eventually pests or diseases m a y take over since they have lived and played in that spot for so long. But if y o u replant every square three times a year, S F G is g o i n g to be no picnic for t h e m . T h e y will have to m o v e every t w o months. I'll bet they will go somewhere else to set up residency. H o w about your row gardener next door that laughed at y o u w h e n you started building your boxes?

Add Color

O n e more thing. N o w that you've b e c o m e an accomplished gardener one square at a time, you've improved the look and landscape of your garden and perhaps even your yard and patio. W h e n you decide y o u need a little color over here or there, y o u may put in a s u m m e r crop of flowers—perhaps p i n k p e t u n i a s — y o u b e c o m e a designer. Just t h i n k — y o u ' r e enjoying a painting in progress w h e n y o u garden the All N e w Square Foot Gardening way!

What are some of your favorite

flowers or herbs? Plant them

Vertical Gardening

I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i i i 1 1 i i I i i i I i i i I i 1 1 I By now, y o u m i g h t feel that the 80 percent reduction in size, the no fertilizer needed, the growing in only 6 inches of Mel's M i x , or even the no digging of y o u r existing soil ever again are all that y o u could ask from y o u r All N e w Square Foot Garden.

I n addition, y o u m i g h t say that m o s t people w o u l d t h i n k that all of the above is a m a z i n g a n d earth-shattering (well, okay, h o w a b o u t just impressive), b u t this topic, "Vertical G a r d e n i n g , " is d o w n r i g h t spectacular.

How It Happened

Here's a q u i c k flashback to 1 9 7 6 w h e n this retired engineer t o o k up gardening. I d e v e l o p e d S F G b u t as I l o o k e d at t o m a t o plants g r o w i n g in pots on decks a n d in single-row gardens, I k n e w my w o r k wasn't c o m p l e t e . T o m a t o e s are n o t o n l y America's favorite vegetable to grow, but they also take up the most r o o m a n d cause quite an unsightly mess by the end of the season if they are allowed to sprawl all over the ground. T h e r e are also the complaints of slugs getting in and ruining all of the tomatoes as well as gardeners stepping all over the vines and crushing t h e m w h e n trying to harvest the fruit. T h e w h o l e idea of g r o w i n g tomatoes this w a y seems very non-productive. At the time, the only cages available were too short and too w e a k to solve the problem.

I said, " T h i s is no w a y to treat a t o m a t o . We can't let it lie d o w n and sprawl all over the g r o u n d . It should be allowed to stand up straight a n d tall so that it can be p r o u d of itself and a benefit a n d credit to the c o m m u n i t y . "

Six m o n t h s later my vertical frame w a s designed, tested, a n d p u t into operation. It was an A i l - A m e r i c a n m o d e l m a d e f r o m rigid G e r m a n steel c o n d u i t a n d Japanese twine. It was so strong that it held up t h r o u g h rain, sleet, snow, a n d heavy S e p t e m b e r storms w h e n the t o m a t o plant filled the entire frame and was loaded w i t h red, ripe tomatoes.

After growing tomatoes this unique and attractive w a y for several years, I began thinking about the other vine crops that spread all over the garden. C o u l d they be g r o w n the same way? First I tried pole

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

I _L I L I 1 I I JLJta

Why Should You Grow Vertically?

• It's spectacular.

• It saves space.

• You grow better crops.

• It adds a third dimension to

your SFG.

• It costs less then you could

I couldn't

imagine!

believe the

• It lasts for years.

amount of

vegetables

How Do You Grow Vertically?

it raised "

• Build a super strong steel frame.

—Dan from Texas

• Attach nylon netting.

Where Do You Grow Vertically?

• Along the north edge of your 4x4

• Next to any fence or building

wall.

When Do You Grow Vertically?

• Anytime before vine crops

start sprawling.

beans (a no-brainer), then c u c u m b e r s a n d peas. T h e n even winter and s u m m e r squash. T h e y all w o r k e d and grew well, and they looked just great growing on a vertical frame. A n d I was so pleased w i t h the results of growing vine crops this n e w w a y that I said, " T h i s is a g o o d thing," and included the m e t h o d i n m y f i r s t b o o k o n S F G .

B u t since then—-Wow! Y o u should see the vertical gardens now.

T h e p u m p k i n s , all kinds o f m e l o n s (including the n e w smaller watermelons), and all of the really big squashes grow 7 feet in the air.

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147

Vertical Gardening

A few years ago at o u r display gardens in U t a h , we were g r o w i n g 3 5 - p o u n d p u m p k i n s 7 feet in the air. We m a d e the vertical frames 8 feet above the ground for no other reason than we w a n t e d to show off and demonstrate h o w tall they can be! N o w this was a spectacular sight, and m a n y people have w a n t e d t o k n o w h o w they c o u l d accomplish this same feat in their o w n backyard.

We usually refer to vertical g a r d e n i n g as " A d v a n c e d S F G . " B u t , really, as soon as y o u master the basics of Square Foot Gardening, y o u can enjoy g r o w i n g crops vertically. A n d y o u will b e the e n v y o f the neighborhood w h e n y o u do.

Growing vertically not only saves

space but it also adds another

dimension of beauty to your garden.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Picture This

C a n y o u just picture a wall of green in your garden filled with vine crops like tomatoes, cucumbers, pole beans, even melons and squash?

All the colorful fruit just h a n g i n g there w a i t i n g to be picked! No sprawling plants all over the ground with their fruit lying on the soil getting all dirty and eaten by slugs. T h e s e walls of green can even be located so they hide any unsightly areas of the yatd or garage. T h e y To construct a vertical frame, you

can even give y o u some privacy to keep neighbors from peering over need: two 5 foot electrical conduit

the fence to look at your S F G . It's not only a spectacular sight, but pipes ('/2-inch diameter); one 4-foot

those plants will be up in the air getting better sunshine and air conduit pipe ('/2-inch diameter);

m o v e m e n t . T h e y ' l l p r o d u c e a m o r e useable harvest for y o u w i t h two 18-inch long rebar supports

n o t h i n g wasted. To top all that off, each plant will o n l y take 1 or of'/2-inch diameter; screwdriver;

2 square feet of garden space and grow perfectly well in your 6 inches hammer; two elbow connectors;

of Mel's M i x . A n o t h e r big advantage is y o u can do all this standing and trellis netting.

u p — n o bending, kneeling, or squatting d o w n to tend your plants.

Vertical Gardening

149

Constructing Supports

I experimented through the years w i t h all different types of materials and frames, and I finally settled u p o n one that was so simple, easy, and inexpensive to use that it was almost ridiculous.

I f o u n d that electrical c o n d u i t is the cheapest, strongest, a n d best material to use for the vertical supports. I do n o t like P V C

pipe or w o o d because it eventually will b e n d a n d break a n d destroy y o u r w h o l e vertical garden. W h e n y o u f i r s t build a n d plant a vertical frame o u t of just a b o u t a n y t h i n g , it looks sturdy a n d strong. But, near the end of the g r o w i n g season, w h e n y o u r plants have g r o w n to the t o p a n d filled up all the o p e n spaces, that frame acts like a sail on a boat. Just w h e n y o u r tomatoes are getting ripe and ready to pick, a l o n g c o m e s a late s u m m e r storm w i t h lots of w i n d and rain, a n d the next t h i n g y o u k n o w the w h o l e t h i n g is flat on the g r o u n d .

U s i n g electrical c o n d u i t a n d a steel g r o u n d rod (rebar) will prevent this from happening. A n d the t w o posts and top are simple and inexpensive to b u y and install.

T h e conduit itself costs a few dollars for a 10-foot length, so y o u can see we're n o t talking a b o u t b i g b u c k s here, and y o u s h o u l d be able to talk the clerk at the store into c u t t i n g it in half. For the corners y o u can b u y elbows, pre-bent rounded corners or bend your o w n if y o u have a conduit bender (about twenty bucks at the same store). It's k i n d of fun to b e n d the c o n d u i t , a n d o n c e y o u get the k n a c k of it, it c o m e s o u t nice a n d s m o o t h w i t h g o o d curves (see the p h o t o on page 8). T h e bent pipes are connected w i t h a simple metal coupling (see the p h o t o on page 158) that has t w o set screws that tighten each pipe together, and they both usually cost less than a dollar.

Placement of Vertical Supports in the SFG Garden

W h e n you're deciding where to place your vertical frames, keep in m i n d that y o u don't w a n t the vines to shade the rest of the garden.

So, the frames w o r k best w h e n placed on the north side of each box.

If y o u w a n t m o r e vertical crops than one frame per b o x , y o u can m a k e d o u b l e or triple boxes and turn t h e m east a n d west so the frames can go all a l o n g the n o r t h side. Y o u c o u l d also devote a special-sized b o x just for vertical crops. M a k e a 2 x 1 2 - f o o t or a n y length box w i t h a vertical frame continuously on the north side. T h i s could stand against a wall or fence. Y o u could even plant the front squares w i t h pretty flowers or any low-growing crop like peppers or eggplant that will l o o k great and will hide the b o t t o m stems of the vertical vines.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Once you've attached the elbow

connectors to your 4-foot conduit

pipe, lay it against the north-facing

board of your SFG. Next, hammer

the rebar where the elbows are

located. You '11 want to drive the

rebar in about half its height.

Installing the Vertical Frame

Your vertical frame should be installed outside the box, so it sits on the ground. Aside from driving the concrete reinforcing bars (rebar) into the ground, and slipping the conduit over them, y o u could also attach the vertical frame to your box w i t h pipe clamps on the side.

T h i s w o u l d give them even more stability.

Securing Vertical Supports In the Ground

To secure the vertical frame, p o u n d two '/2-inch diameter pieces of concrete reinforcing bars (rebar) into the ground. T h e s e bars can be purchased already c u t at any b u i l d i n g supply store and should be anywhere between 18 to 24 inches long depending on y o u r soil. T h e looser (sandier) your soil is, then the longer the bar should be. Drive the rebar halfway into the g r o u n d , k e e p i n g it nice and straight; I suggest y o u wear gloves for this. T h e t w o electrical conduit legs slip right over those '/2-inch rebars and are securely in place. We never p o u n d on the conduit itself because the ends will bend and then they won't fit into the coupling or over the rebar.

Vertical Gardening

151

Slide the 5-foot conduit pipes over

the rebar for a standard strength

vertical fame. Or, as described

below, use a short steel fence post

instead of the rebar for an extra-

strong frame.

Extra-Strong Frame for Heavy Crops

To make the vertical frame extra strong for watermelons, squash, and pumpkins, drive a steel fence post into the ground first instead of the rebar. A fence post can be just the shortest 3-foot tall size. O n c e the fence post is in the g r o u n d , then the c o n d u i t is attached to it w i t h three pipe clamps. T h e w h o l e frame then b e c o m e s so strong that it will h o l d up any w e i g h t no matter h o w h i g h y o u go.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Attach the top conduit to the legs

and tighten the screws in the elbows.

Vertical Supports On A Patio, Balcony, Rooftop, or

Waist High Garden

Vertical supports can also be added to patio, balcony, or waist-high gardens. T h e y are constructed in the same manner. However, we suggest that they be no taller than 4 feet. Instead of using rebar in the g r o u n d to secure them, they are fastened to the garden box using special clamps screwed into the sides of the box. B u y those w h e n and where y o u b u y y o u r c o n d u i t a n d lumber. In this situation, there's not a great strength w i t h the vertical frame, so it w o u l d be necessary to p u t the struts from the top d o w n to the south side o f the box, a n d d e p e n d i n g o n h o w high, and y o u r location, the w i n d , and the plant g r o w t h , y o u m i g h t have to provide additional support. T h e illustration on the next page shows g u y wires.

Vertical Gardening

153

Nylon Netting On the Supports

N o w that the vertical frame has been constructed, it is time to add s o m e t h i n g for the plants to g r o w o n . I used to use either special w i d e - o p e n i n g fencing or g o o d strong synthetic twine or cord, but then along came this beautiful, soft, indestructible nylon netting w i t h large o p e n i n g s y o u can reach t h r o u g h . T h i s n y l o n garden netting is n o w the o n l y material I use for vertical gardening. It's white, keeps its color, can't be broken, will last forever, and is easy to w o r k with. T h e netting is tied tightly and securely to the top and sides of the vertical frame, and the plants can then be gently w o v e n in and out of the netting as they grow. T h e netting comes in 4- and 5-foot w i d t h s and various lengths a n d is available at m o s t garden centers and catalogs. W h e n we teach our classes, it is always fun to ask two of the strongest m e n to c o m e up front and try and break the netting; they just can't do it!

If you live in a city and have no

plot of ground to call your own, call

your superintendent and ask for

permission to build a roof op garden.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

To attach the trellis netting to your

frame, frst hook the netting on the

two corners. Next, cut the netting at

each connection. This will give you

one long strand. (Be careful to cut

on the same side of the connecting

strand each time.)

Loop the long strand over the top of

the fame and firmly tie a simple

knot. Try to keep the length uniform

so your netting isn't crooked.

Make the same cuts down the sides

of the frame and firmly tie knots

around the supporting pipes (above).

Tie the netting tight and your

vertical frame will look neat

and trim for many years.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

With tight netting and a strong

frame, you '11 be able to grow all

sorts ofvining crops.

Arbors and Walkways

If an upside-down, U-shaped metal vertical frame works so well for one box, just think of all the various shapes, sizes, and arrangements y o u can make with more vertical frames. You can put two together in a straight line, turn a corner, or even zigzag. Y o u can p u t four together to fotm an arbor. You can put netting on two sides so it's a w a l k - t h r o u g h , on three sides so it's a sitting area, or on four sides with one little opening for the kids to play in. T h a t w o u l d be a secret place, and y o u c o u l d p u t netting across the top or run t w o sets of vertical frames d o w n a pathway, creating a wall. Y o u c o u l d even create a w h o l e maze w i t h dead ends, turns, and twists. All of the types of plants that w o u l d grow on it produce huge leaves, and make a very interesting visual pattern for your yard.

A n d don't forget v i n i n g f l o w e r s . I f y o u w a n t s o m e t h i n g that blooms every year with little care required, instead of an annual vine, y o u m i g h t w a n t to plant something more permanent like a perennial flower such as clematis, honeysuckle, climbing roses, trumpet vine, or

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157

thumbelina. A n o t h e r g o o d s u m m e r vining crop is N e w Zealand spinach. If y o u had l o n g walkways w i t h the vertical frames d o w n each side, y o u could build 2-foot-by-any-length boxes and have them on the outside giving y o u plenty of walking room. Y o u could also p u t t h e m so that 1 foot is inside the path, and 1 foot is outside.

I w o u l d plant the vine crops on the outside so they w o u l d climb up the netting, and plant flowers along the inside that will do well in the eventual shade of the p a t h w a y — p e r h a p s something like impatiens or coleus.

Plants that Grow Vertically

Seed packets and catalogs often do not indicate

whether a variety is a vining or bush type. T h e

seed c o m p a n i e s are constantly c h a n g i n g a n d adding n e w varieties, and in order to find out the

best ones that vine, I w o u l d suggest that y o u call

(if they have a toll-free n u m b e r ) or e-mail the

various seed c o m p a n i e s to find out. Tell t h e m

y o u are d o i n g Square Foot G a r d e n i n g and w a n t to g r o w crops vertically a n d that y o u w a n t to

k n o w w h i c h of their varieties are vines w h i c h

need trellising and support.

Planting Seeds or Transplants

Remember, tomatoes are the o n l y vine crop y o u cannot start as a seed directly in the garden. T h e y take so l o n g to g r o w into a sizeable plant that in m o s t cases we have to g r o w or b u y transplants to p u t into the garden as soon as the last frost of spring is over. T h e rest of the vine crops can be started from seed directly in the garden. T h e seed planting chart in the A p p e n d i x shows w h e n to plant t h e m at the best time, a n d C h a p t e r 9 shows y o u h o w to start the season earlier or extend it later.

Easy Climb

O n e of the particularly desirable points of vertical gardening is that there's very little m a i n t e n a n c e to do for the plants. A s i d e f r o m watering, it's a matter of once a w e e k tucking the tops of the plant in through an opening in the netting, and back through another one, so they keep c l i m b i n g up the netting. S o m e of the vertical crops, like pole beans a n d c u c u m b e r s , will do all the c l i m b i n g themselves, b u t tomatoes have to be helped through the openings and pointed to the top. T h e netting is so strong that it will easily hold up the plant and, in fact, after further studies I f o u n d o u t the netting will also h o l d up

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

all the fruit, i n c l u d i n g small w a t e r m e l o n s and p u m p k i n s . S o m e of the w i n t e r squashes got so heavy I was afraid late s u m m e r storms w o u l d b l o w over the w h o l e contraption. It depends on h o w strong the g r o u n d rods are and h o w t o u g h the soil is. But if y o u r frame is located outside the b o x a n d the g r o u n d rod is p o u n d e d into y o u r existing soil, it w o u l d require b e n d i n g the rebar, or the electrical c o n d u i t , before the frame w o u l d c o m e d o w n .

Tomatoes

T h e m o s t popular h o m e garden vegetable is tomatoes, and w h e n you're vertical gardening the S F G way, there are a few things y o u can do to increase your yields.

Nature has already taught some

vines to climb. You basically just

need to plant the seeds and watch

them ?o!

Vertical Gardening

159

Tomatoes and the Single Stem Method

T h e theory behind pruning to one single stem is that all the energy goes straight up the main stalk, and y o u will have more tomatoes per square foot than if y o u allow it to p u t energy into b r a n c h i n g out.

T h a t means y o u have to cut off the branches, and the best time to do it is w h e n they're tiny. Unfortunately, m o s t gardeners don't. T h e y l o o k so small a n d cute, a n d as they g r o w bigger a n d bigger, they begin to take on the appearance of a productive plant and it becomes hard to cut t h e m back.

T o help c o n v i n c e y o u t o p r u n e off those suckers, r e m e m b e r that the nice t h i n g a b o u t t h e m is o n c e y o u p r u n e t h e m , y o u can root t h e m , a n d they can b e c o m e another plant for a late crop.

No matter h o w large the sucker or side branch, y o u can stand it in a glass of water a n d transplant that into the g r o u n d as s o o n as the roots sprout. O r , y o u can stick those suckers in a c u p of

LvLore

vermiculite, a n d keep that in a saucer of water, a n d they will also

manageable,

sprout roots. T h e y are great, free plants for a late harvest for

enjoyable, and

canning, juice, or preserving.

bountiful than I'd

G e t i n the habit o f inspecting a n d p r u n i n g y o u r t o m a t o plants

ever imagined."

once a w e e k to a single stem, a n d w e a v e the t o p in a n d o u t of the netting. At the same t i m e , c h e c k the overall appearance of the

—Manjafrom Oregon

plant t o m a k e sure y o u have n o t o m a t o w o r m s visiting.

Lay Tomatoes Down

Since a t o m a t o plant can sprout n e w roots a l o n g its m a i n stem, I have f o u n d that the best w a y to plant the main crop of tomatoes is to lay t h e m d o w n horizontally in a shallow trench. T h e y will develop an e n o r m o u s n u m b e r of roots, all a l o n g that hairy stem, w h i c h will sustain a larger, more productive plant. Pick your best-looking plants, a n d p i n c h or cut off the lower leaves (at least t w o or three) so y o u have a tall s k i n n y plant ready to plant in a l a y - m e - d o w n position.

To do this, y o u first locate the square foot it's g o i n g to be in, take y o u r h a n d or a trowel, a n d d i g o u t a l o n g shallow trench, perhaps 3 or 4 inches deep in the m i d d l e of the square a n d as l o n g as y o u r tomato plant is. M a k e the trench l o n g e n o u g h so y o u can lay d o w n the plant w i t h the root ball at one end. D i g a little deeper for the root ball and then lay the stem on the b o t t o m of the trench. At the other end where the top is (remember y o u cut off most of the lower leaves), very, very carefully bend the top so it starts pointing up. Y o u can take the Mel's M i x , and push it underneath that bent top to act as a pillow (see, this is really a bed), and if you're very gentle, you'll end up w i t h the t o p sticking o u t of the soil at a slight angle. It does n o t have to point straight up; it just has to be aboveground. Fill in the rest of the trench and water well.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

In just a few days that top will straighten itself up, and at the same time all the n e w roots will start sprouting out from the main stem. If y o u noticed the root system w h e n y o u p u t the plant in the g r o u n d , d e p e n d i n g on w h a t size p o t it was growing in, it probably had a very small rootball, perhaps o n l y 1 or 2 inches w i d e , and 1 or 2 inches l o n g . B u t n o w for the average transplant you're g o i n g to d e v e l o p a 6- to 8-inch rootball a l o n g the entire length. T h i s procedure will not take any strength from the plant, and it will not delay a n y of the first tomatoes you're g o i n g to harvest f r o m that plant. In fact, because of its extra root strength and size, it will be a m o r e vigorous grower than before.

TRAINING PLANTS

UP YOUR NETTING

At least once a week, gently

take the new growth on your

vertical crops, and carefully

weave it in and out of the

netting. The wide squares in the

netting make it easy to reach

through and guide your plants

without breaking them.

S o m e b o o k s m a y advise y o u to d i g a deep hole, a n d plant the t o m a t o straight d o w n deep so just the top leaves show, thus b u r y i n g the entire stem w i t h the idea that the roots will still sprout along the stem. T h i s is okay, b u t that puts the plant quite deep in the g r o u n d and usually it's still springtime and the g r o u n d is still fairly cool. So I've f o u n d the l a y - m e - d o w n m e t h o d will m a k e the plant g r o w m u c h faster, because the soil at that level is warmer, by perhaps as m u c h as 10 degrees. After the plant is h e a d i n g skyward, y o u treat it the exact same w a y as any other t o m a t o transplant. T h i s m e t h o d o f l a y - m e - d o w n p l a n t i n g also will give y o u m o r e fruit

Vertical Gardening

161

Vines need a little direction from

time to time. Gently weave a vine

in and out of the trellis netting to

help it keep a steady course.

because the first fruiting branch to form along the main stem will be closer to the g r o u n d , allowing y o u more distance to the top of your vertical frame to have fruit.

Tomato Worm

If y o u see some of your tomato leaves are chewed up, y o u m a y have the dreaded tomato w o r m . L o o k for little black specks (the droppings from the w o r m s ) , and c h e c k the s u r r o u n d i n g leaves to find t h e m .

T h e w o r m s are camouflaged b u t still brightly colored, large, and beautiful. Usually thete are just one or two at the most. (Caution: do not pick it up. T o m a t o w o r m s emit a very foul smell that will get on your hands and clothes.)

Play it safe. G e t your scissors, and cut off the leaf. Put it in a paper bag, seal it, and throw it in the garbage. T o m a t o w o r m s don't usually harm the tomatoes themselves, but they take strength from the plant as they eat m a n y of the leaves. If y o u r children are interested in a science project, y o u m i g h t have t h e m c o m e and l o o k at the tomato horn w o r m and get their ears as close as they can. T h e y can actually hear t h e m crunching the leaves. (Be careful, the w o r m s could j u m p on your h e a d — n o , I'm only kidding!)

Over the Top

W h a t d o y o u d o w h e n the t o m a t o plant gets t o the top o f y o u r tower, and there is still a lot of g r o w i n g season left? Y o u have t w o choices, depending on h o w m a n y tomatoes you've picked so far and h o w m a n y green ones are c o m i n g . Y o u can either cut the t o p right off, stop its g r o w t h , a n d allow a g o o d part of the energy to go into the existing tomatoes. O r , y o u can let the t o p c o n t i n u e to grow, and let it h a n g over the side. It will keep g r o w i n g until the end of the season, w h i c h for a t o m a t o plant is the first frost. If y o u w a n t

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

This vertical garden has bean

and tomato plants. They are

planted with sage and squash.

Think of the harvest!

to protect this plant from the first frost (and everyone does), the vertical frame is designed so all y o u have to do is gently lay a tarp or blanket over it. N e x t m o r n i n g take it off, fold it up, and you're ready until the next threat of frost. T h i s w a y y o u can keep y o u r t o m a t o plants growing and producing for several more weeks.

Pruning Cucumbers, Melons, and More

T h e other vine crops can have their side branches continue to grow until the whole plant takes up too m u c h space. In general y o u w a n t the plant to spread out to be approximately 1 to 2 feet wide on the vertical frame netting. If y o u plant one plant per square foot, it can fill that 1 2 - i n c h w i d e square, g o i n g right up the netting. If the spacing for that particular vegetable (for example, cucumbers that are spaced 2 per square foot), y o u w o u l d trim the side branches back so that each one is from 6 to 9 inches wide outside of its space. Squash is a little different because the leaves are so large that it's hard to judge where the stem is and h o w m u c h r o o m the entire plant is taking.

That's w h y we give squash a lot more r o o m (2 square feet per plant) in the vertical garden. A l t h o u g h most squash plants will grow on one central stalk, s o m e do branch. T h o s e w i t h branches take longer to have fruit, so if y o u cut t h e m off all the energy will go to the main branch and the flowers and fruit on that main branch. W h e n it grows to the top, let it h a n g d o w n until it gets near the b o t t o m , p u t it t h r o u g h the netting, turn it u p , and start all over again.

A l l the v i n i n g plants are very vigorous, energetic, a n d sturdy, so there's n o t m u c h y o u can do to deter their g r o w t h . B u t w h e n e v e r you're bending a stem to poke it through the netting or over the top, hold it w i t h t w o hands and be careful so it doesn't break.

Vertical Gardening

163

Safety Precautions

If y o u r crops are g r o w i n g thickly a n d have covered the 4 - f o o t - w i d e frames, y o u m i g h t w a n t to play it safe a n d p u t g u y wires on the vertical frame w h e n y o u get near the end of the season. T h i s requires tying something like fishing line or strong cord from the top bar d o w n to the s o u t h side of the box. For the n o r t h side, y o u c o u l d always p r o p the t o p up w i t h a 1 x 2-foot board cut o u t w i t h a n o t c h to fit into the top bar. T h a t w o u l d h o l d the frame up from both directions.

You have to use your own

judgment, but after you get

accustomed to bending plants,

you'll get used to their

resilience. You'll know how far

they can bend and when not to

push them. Remember, though,

if you're bending a plant near

the top or in through the

netting, the end is very supple

and easy to maneuver. However,

if you're trying to bend the stem

closer to where it's planted, the

vine will be hard and fairly rigid.

So, if you have to bend it there,

you might stuff something under

it like an old wadded-up tee

shirt. In a few days, you can

retrieve the shirt after the stem

has taken the new shape.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Cold Season Handling of a Vertical Frame

After the growing season is over, the frame can be removed intact and h u n g o u t of the w a y in the garage to wait for the next g r o w i n g season. S o m e people leave their vertical frame up all winter, a n d d u r i n g the holiday season, weave brightly colored r i b b o n or even lights in and o u t of the netting to decorate for the holidays!

Conclusion

We have seen h o w beneficial and easy vertical gardening can be. N o t only can y o u grow vining crops in less space, but harvesting becomes m u c h easier and crops don't get soft and m u s h y from resting on the ground. Vertical frames add beauty to a garden as well as that unique, vertical dimension.

So, we encourage y o u to add this innovative feature of Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g to y o u r o w n garden. Y o u will be so glad y o u did!

Extending the Seasons

We gardeners like to b e n d reality a bit. N a t u r e says, " Y o u can't plant now, it's t o o c o l d . " B u t we say, " W a n n a m a k e a bet?" T h i s chapter will s h o w y o u o n h o w t o get the m o s t o u t o f y o u r garden each year by p u s h i n g the envelope on nature's conditions. W i t h a variety of easy-to-make i m p l e m e n t s , y o u r garden can g r o w 30 to 50 percent m o r e p r o d u c e each year. A n d in addition to the extra food, it extends the beauty of the garden a n d the satisfaction of the gardener. H o w e v e r , this idea isn't necessarily for the first-time gardener unless you've g o t a lot of t i m e , a natural talent, a n d a lot of confidence.

a

Nature gives us our gardening cues as the seasons change. We're

fantastic! It very

going to use those seasonal cycles as our framework for this chapter.

much appeals to

B u t f i r s t , w h y w o u l d y o u w a n t t o extend y o u r seasons? W e l l ,

my innate sense

w o u l d y o u like to pick the first tomatoes on the block? W o u l d y o u

of organization

like a garden-fresh salad on T h a n k s g i v i n g ? Y o u r answer to these questions will help y o u determine h o w m u c h w o r k y o u w a n t to put

and efficiency."

into extending the g r o w i n g season because growing out of season

—Jefffrom

does require more time and effort.

North Carolina

Lengthen Season by 50 Percent

In most parts of the continental U n i t e d States, the average growing season runs from M a y to September. T h i s means that most gardeners g r o w vegetables d u r i n g an average of six m o n t h s o u t of a possible twelve. W h e n these six m o n t h s are extended by an additional t w o m o n t h s , the g r o w i n g season is extended by 33 percent. A three-m o n t h extension provides a 50 percent increase—a worthwhile goal that can be achieved easily and inexpensively. Gardeners gain a great sense of a c c o m p l i s h m e n t f r o m these increased yields, a n d m o d e r n homesteaders and food preservers find it an absolute blessing.

Square F o o t Gardeners don't have the negative experiences associated w i t h d o i n g all that hard w o r k w h e n they garden, so they l o o k forward t o m o r e g a r d e n i n g a n d w a n t t o lengthen the g r o w i n g season. For t h e m , g a r d e n i n g isn't a test of endurance. It's a pleasant experience. T h e y don't w a n t t o k n o w h o w s o o n they can quit, b u t h o w l o n g they can c o n t i n u e experiencing the j o y o f gardening!

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Don't think y o u must extend the season to be an accomplished gardener. Sometimes it's just as g o o d to sit back, relax, and just "go d o r m a n t " for a while. Instead of gardening y o u could be satisfied and save time and work.

It's your decision. But if y o u think it's time to trick nature into feeding y o u year-round, then read on! T h e rest of the chapter will explain what to do each season to extend your harvest from cool-weather and warm-weather plants.

Extend the Harvest by Growing Out of Season

T h e o b v i o u s w a y to extend the garden year is to start earlier than usual and keep the plants growing later. Cool-weather crops can be grown in two extra plantings for a longer season. T h e first planting is made in the early spring and will mature in the cool weather of late spring. T h e second crop of cool-weather plants can be planted in late s u m m e r to mature in the late fall.

Since early spring and late fall can bring s o m e rather severe weather, g r o w i n g o u t of season is s i m p l y k e e p i n g the cold tempera-If you want to jump-start your

tures away f r o m y o u r plants. To do this, it's i m p o r t a n t to provide garden, try starting your own seeds.

these crops w i t h the extra protection they need from the elements.

But with the SFG, you won't need

By covering and p r o t e c t i n g y o u r crops, y o u are basically creating all this expensive equipment and

an artificial e n v i r o n m e n t . After all, that is w h a t a greenhouse you won't have so many plants to

d o e s — i t keeps the c o l d air o u t b u t lets the sunlight in. W h a t more take care of.

c o u l d a plant want?

Extending the Seasons

167

In addition, all of the s u m m e r or hot-weather crops can be started t w o to three weeks earlier than normal and they, too, can be extended up to a m o n t h b e y o n d their normal season in the fall. T h e n , an extra p l a n t i n g of lettuce, spinach, a n d radishes can be g r o w n d u r i n g the h o t s u m m e r m o n t h s that are n o r m a l l y considered o u t of season for these t w o crops. S o u n d like a lot of work? W i t h Square F o o t Gardening, it's easier than y o u think. It all depends on y o u providing protection from the sudden and harsh temperatures and weather.

Box with Cage

Since a Square Foot G a r d e n takes up so little space, it is relatively easy to protect your crops.

W h i l e special techniques that provide extra

protection m a y vary w i t h the season a n d the

variety of vegetable, they are quickly learned and

easily practiced. C h a p t e r 4 explains h o w to build

a special b o x and the various kinds of protective

cages. T h e s e structures m a k e it possible to

moderate the climate in that b o x so y o u can

stretch y o u r g r o w i n g season at b o t h ends.

Early Spring

A great time to extend the growing season is

early spring before anyone else is o u t gardening.

Begin by w a r m i n g up the soil in y o u r S F G

boxes. Spread clear or black plastic over the top

of the soil, and weigh it d o w n w i t h a brick in

each corner. After a couple of sunny days, take

the cover off, lift the grid out, and m i x up the

soil w i t h a trowel so the w a r m e r surface soil is

m o v e d d o w n b e l o w and the colder, deeper soils

are raised to the top. T h e n replace the plastic

covers. T h i s is no big deal since your Mel's M i x is

loose and friable at all times of the year. Besides,

the soil is only 6 inches deep. H o w m u c h w o r k

could that be?

Jump Start Your Seeds

If y o u w a n t to get a quicker start a n d earlier g r o w t h , try s p r o u t i n g y o u r seeds indoors, a n d then transplanting t h e m into individual containers w h e n they are very y o u n g . Before the plants get too large, harden t h e m off before planting t h e m outdoors in your spring box.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Spring

For y o u r first spring planting, set up a spring b o x w i t h a storm w i n d o w cover o r the P V C type structure over a n y garden square where you'll be planting an early crop so the sun will start w a r m i n g the soil. Do this about four weeks before it's time to plant your seeds.

For a d o u b l e - q u i c k soil w a r m - u p , cover the soil w i t h clear or black plastic, a n d then remove it before planting. Or y o u can use plastic covered cages over individual squares a r o u n d the garden instead of the entire 4 X 4-foot area. W h e n the weather is w a r m e n o u g h , transplant the plants you've g r o w n into the o p e n garden squares.

T h e y can also be left to g r o w where they were planted by removing the protective cage from the squares.

You must check your spring

plant boxes every day in sunny

weather. If your plants begin

to wilt or if the soil dries to a

depth of l inch, it's time to

water. Water with a cup of

sun-warmed water.

Climate Control

W h e n you're using a spring box on your early crops, remember that fresh air has to get in and y o u have to vent out the h o t air that builds up on sunny days even in cold or freezing weather.

H e a t builds up quickly in the boxes on s u n n y days. As the weather w a r m s u p , slide or lift the cover o p e n a little farther each w e e k until y o u can remove it entirely. (Don't try to p r o p up a glass storm w i n d o w w i t h sticks; believe m e , the w i n d will b l o w it d o w n w h e n e v e r you're n o t around.) A light frost won't h u r t m o s t c o o l -

weather crops, b u t t o o m u c h heat will c o o k t h e m . It takes a little experience to learn h o w to control the heat a n d moisture inside y o u r frame. K e e p in m i n d these precautions w h e n trying to g r o w o u t o f season.

Extending the Seasons

169

Extending Cool-Weather Crops into Summer

In addition to lettuce a n d radishes, y o u m i g h t also try g r o w i n g spinach or even cabbage out of season into the early summer. Spring crops can be g r o w n from seeds or from transplants started indoors a few weeks ahead o f time. W h e n c h o o s i n g varieties o f cool-weather crops to g r o w into s u m m e r , l o o k for w o r d s like " l o n g standing,"

"slow to b o l t , " a n d "heat resistant" in the seed catalogs or packet descriptions.

Summer

As the spring season progresses, it's time to

give some s u m m e r v e g e t a b l e s — s u c h as beans, squash, and c u c u m b e r s — a head start. For earlier

harvests, try starting the seeds for these w a r m -

weather crops right in their permanent location

under a protective cage t w o weeks before the

usual planting time. T h e y will be m u c h hardier

and stronger than seedlings g r o w n on the

w i n d o w s i l l . W h e n all danger of frost is past,

remove the covers.

T h e r e is an entire industry w i t h all kinds of

protective devices a n d products to help the

gardener be successful in early gardening. T h e y

vary f r o m water-filled walls a r o u n d the plant

to special g r o u n d covers designed to heat up

the soil quicker. T r y s o m e of these products

and see w h a t happens. I always like to place an

u n p r o t e c t e d plant right next to the protected

one for c o m p a r i s o n .

Shade and Water

If you're the type of person w h o doesn't like hot, sticky weather, and y o u literally wilt in the sun, then the obvious solution is to m o v e into the shade w i t h a large pitcher of y o u r favorite cold drink. W e l l , lettuce and radishes are no different. If y o u can provide shade for these spring crops (especially during the n o o n sun), along w i t h some extra water, y o u will be able to harvest t h r o u g h o u t m o s t of the summer. L o o k for special hot-weather varieties of your favorite plants in your seed catalog.

C o v e r the square w i t h a shade cage, a n d give the plants p l e n t y of w a t e r — a s a general rule, water twice as often as y o u usually w o u l d . R e m e m b e r , o n e of the best aids for g r o w i n g a g o o d crop is Mel's M i x — o u r soil m i x that c o m b i n e s equal parts peat moss, coarse vermiculite, a n d b l e n d e d c o m p o s t . It holds lots of moisture

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

so the plant roots can take up all that's needed, yet drains well so the roots can't b e c o m e waterlogged.

Shade Screens

T h e shade cage will a d m i t e n o u g h light for proper g r o w t h w h i l e k e e p i n g the temperature d o w n considerably. A layer of thick m u l c h will also help moderate soil temperatures. Y o u can also m a k e use of natural shade or sun screens by locating a p l a n t i n g of spring crops b e h i n d (to the n o r t h of) y o u r vertical g r o w i n g frames.

K e e p in m i n d that you're growing out of season, w h i c h means it is not the plant's natural inclination to grow then. Y o u are urging these plants o n , so be generous w i t h y o u r help a n d attention a n d don't expect too m u c h . Just enjoy the challenge and experience!

Summer Plants into Fall

Gardeners sometimes w o n d e r w h e t h e r the extra effort involved in protecting s u m m e r crops from the first fall frost is w o r t h the effort.

I t h i n k it certainly is, if y o u w a n t an extra t w o or three weeks w o r t h of harvest f r o m all those warm-weather crops. Q u i t e often the first frost is followed by a l o n g period of clear, w a r m weather before the next frost. If y o u can protect y o u r garden f r o m that first frost, y o u can enjoy green plants a n d fresh vegetables d u r i n g o n e of the most pleasant periods of the y e a r — m i d - a u t u m n . Since most of these crops

Extending the Seasons

171

have a six to eight w e e k harvest season, the extra t w o to three weeks gained a m o u n t to quite a b i t — m o r e than a 25 percent extension of the season.

All Together Now

To protect y o u r crops f r o m frost, y o u can start

w i t h a P V C arch or covered w a g o n frame, a n d

then cover it w i t h a large sheet of plastic,

floating cover, or light blanket. Fasten d o w n the

corners so it won't b l o w o f f d u r i n g the night.

O r , the l o w - g r o w i n g crops can be readily

protected w i t h a loose covering of h a y that is

easily r e m o v e d the next m o r n i n g .

To protect vine crops from frost, just throw a

blanket or tarp over the vertical frame so it's

h a n g i n g d o w n on all sides. T h i s is o n e of the prime advantages o f g r o w i n g squash, t o m a t o e s , c u c u m b e r s , pole beans, p u m p k i n s , a n d similar s u m m e r crops on a vertical frame.

Fall

W h e n fall arrives, y o u and y o u r garden have three options: to store food for the winter, extend the harvest, or stop your garden. W h i c h -

ever y o u choose depends on your time and desire.

Extending the Harvest by Storing It

Let's l o o k at the easiest a n d least-known w a y to extend the h a r v e s t — s t o r i n g it. There's the old-fashioned b u t e c o n o m i c a l canning, preserving, a n d freezing for the future, a n d it has a place.

But I think the most economical and environmentally correct w a y to extend the season is to store the harvest. T h e r e is almost no w o r k and m o n e y involved, and the flavor and nutritional value of each vegetable is greater than if it was frozen or canned.

Handle Your Harvest Gently

T h e o n l y secret of successful storage is actually very s i m p l e — l e a r n each vegetable's best storage c o n d i t i o n s a n d provide it. T h e r e are really only two: cool and dry, or cold and moist. T h e list of vegetables that need cool and dry conditions is easy to remember because there are o n l y a f e w — p u m p k i n s , w i n t e r squash, a n d o n i o n s . T h e temperature should be around 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 15.5 degrees Celsius), and the h u m i d i t y needs to be fairly l o w — a t about 50 percent.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Try to find a cool corner of your garage or basement where the temperature stays above 35 but below 60 degrees F (above 1.6 but below 15.5 degrees C ) . If y o u think your storage area m i g h t freeze or get too w a r m at times, y o u can build t w o walls to enclose a corner to provide an even-temperature fruit closet. A d d some insulation, and remember to allow plenty of air circulation. Don't stack produce up in a big pile, but spread your vegetables out evenly on a shelf (not on the floor).

DON'T FEED THE ANIMALS

There is one problem with using

hay bales as winter mukh-they

can provide a cozy nest for

ground mice and voles that love

to eat crunchy root crops. So

keep an eye out for these pests

and any damage they may be

doing. If they do infest your

winter storage plot it's best to

harvest everything and store

your produce in a different place.

H a n d l e p r o d u c e as gently and infrequently as possible. W h e n you're o u t harvesting, treat each vegetable as if it were an egg. A n y bruise or c u t will be the first spot to spoil. L a y each harvested vegetable separately in a b o x of sawdust or c r u m p l e d newspaper; don't pile t h e m all together. Do not wash or scrub the produce. Leave the b o t t o m of the root on root crops, and at least an inch of the top growth. For crops such as vine crops, leave as m u c h of the stem on as possible. O n l y store produce that is in really g o o d condition.

Vegetables in the group that need cold and moist conditions are all root c r o p s — b e e t s , carrots, turnips, w h i t e potatoes, a n d winter radishes plus all of the cabbage family. T h i s g r o u p also includes

Extending the Seasons

173

fruit—especially apples. T h e ideal storage temperature for t h e m is as cold as y o u can get w i t h o u t actually f r e e z i n g — 3 5 to 45 degrees F

(1.6 to 7.2 degrees C ) .

Actually, the simplest w a y to store root crops is not to dig t h e m up at all. Roll a bale of h a y over the planted area; this will break their tops a n d stop the plant's g r o w i n g cycle w h i l e k e e p i n g the g r o u n d from freezing. W h e n you're ready to harvest, simply roll the bale over, dig up a f e w vegetables, a n d t h e n replace the bale. Regular radishes won't h o l d up t o o l o n g in freezing w e a t h e r w h i l e the w i n t e r radish will last almost indefinitely. C a r r o t s a n d leeks also do quite well t h r o u g h the entire winter. If you're feeling adventurous, y o u can experiment w i t h leaving different root crops in the g r o u n d to see w h i c h last through the fall and winter so you'll k n o w w h a t to expect the following year.

Cozy Cover

C a b b a g e and other leaf and head crops can also

be stored in the garden, b u t they won't do well

under a solid bale of hay. Instead, it is better to

use a loose, flufiy covering of straw or leaves. To

keep the w i n d from b l o w i n g this loose covering

around, try placing a 2-foot-high fence of

chicken wire a r o u n d y o u r garden areas a n d

anchoring the wiring at each corner w i t h stakes.

Dig It In

A n o t h e r storage m e t h o d for root crops is to b u r y a container in the ground and p a c k y o u r vegetables in layers of moist sawdust, peat moss, or sand. Y o u can sink a plastic or metal garbage can straight into the g r o u n d w h i l e k e e p i n g the t o p a f e w inches above the surface so no water gets in. M a k e sure the cover fits tightly; then pile at least 12 inches of h a y or leaves over the top. K e e p everything dry by covering it w i t h a w e i g h t e d - d o w n plastic sheet or tarp.

W a t c h o u t for leaks in the container that can allow groundwater to seep in. If y o u can, select an area on h i g h g r o u n d to locate the storage container. T h e g r o u n d will n o t freeze under or a r o u n d this container, a n d y o u r vegetables will be maintained in a very even and moist c o n d i t i o n .

Temperature Differences

O n a c o l d night y o u can w a l k a r o u n d y o u r property a n d actually feel the differences in temperature. T h e cold air virtually rolls d o w n the slope a n d settles in l o w - l y i n g areas; in fact, this is called cold air

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

drainage. Surprisingly, this will h a p p e n even w h e r e there is n o t a great difference i n elevation. O n c e y o u get the k n a c k o f w a t c h i n g o u t for frost a n d covering y o u r plants w h e n it threatens, y o u will see the advantages of locating a garden on the top or s o u t h side of a slope rather t h a n at the b o t t o m of a l o w area. Y o u will also see the advantage of g r o u p i n g y o u r crops according to their weather requirements. T h i s makes it easier to protect t h e m f r o m either frost or freezing in b o t h the spring a n d fall. O n e of the greatest advantages of S F G is h o w easy it is to protect y o u r garden since it is c o n d e n s e d into small, u n i f o r m areas.

It's m u c h simpler a n d m o r e cost effective to g r o w cool-weather crops for an extended season using a sun-heated b o x that protects plants f r o m just the severe weather fluctuations.

Frost

Frost forms w h e n the outdoor temperature drops below the freezing point, resulting in the deposit of ice crystals. Plant material will freeze w h e n there is an accumulation of cold air, 32 degrees Fahrenheit or below (0 degrees Celsius), at ground level. Frost can, and does, occur in l o w areas while the hills and slopes right next to t h e m might be frost-free. T h i s is because hot air rises and cold air sinks. If a b o d y of water is nearby, it can greatly reduce the occurrence of frost as water holds heat very well.

In general, frost usually occurs in the very early m o r n i n g hours, particularly after a still, c a l m night w h e n the weather is dry. T h e chances of frost are also increased f o l l o w i n g the passage of a cold front, indicated by an intermittent a n d c h a n g i n g weather pattern of b r o k e n clouds a n d occasional precipitation; this is in contrast to the steady or c o n t i n u o u s rain a n d the heavy, l o w - h a n g i n g clouds that a c c o m p a n y a w a r m front.

W h e n frost is predicted, be ready. Y o u r best bet is to catch the e v e n i n g weather forecast, particularly the local one. A n o t h e r (perhaps better) source is the Internet. O n e of the best websites is

www.weather.com. C l i c k on " H o m e and G a r d e n , " then " L a w n and Garden" and enter your zip code. You'll get all the information y o u need to be ready for that first frost.

Light Versus Hard Frost

A light frost blackens the outer leaves of most s u m m e r flowers a n d vegetables. It is indicated by a w h i t e covering on the lawn in v e r y early m o r n i n g . S u m m e r vegetables can still be harvested if eaten right away.

A hard frost will blacken a n d kill all s u m m e r flowers a n d vegetables. Plants that were b u s h y and colorful the day before are

Extending the Seasons

175

n o w just d r o o p y skeletons w i t h blackened leaves h a n g i n g like rags f r o m the stems. T h i s can be v e r y disheartening for gardeners w h o c o m e o u t in the m o r n i n g to find that the garden has been devastated. A hard frost is indicated by a c r u n c h y feel to the g r o u n d and a thin film of ice on the birdbath. T h i s is the time w h e n m o s t gardeners declare an end to the season. B u t if y o u have planted some colorful fall-blooming plants ( m u m s , asters, and s o m e hardy daisies) along w i t h the fall vegetables, and y o u clean up the garden right away, y o u r garden will still l o o k attractive a n d inviting after a hard frost. Your spirits will be lifted and y o u can go on to enjoy an a u t u m n garden.

Winter

Gardeners w h o are particularly ambitious and w a n t to continue growing something all winter will need additional tools for providing special protection to a very select variety of

plants. If y o u can keep the ground from freezing

solid and provide sunlight in just a small area, in

m a n y parts of the c o u n t r y y o u can continue

growing special varieties of lettuce and spinach,

hardy leaf crops such as kale, and a n u m b e r of

oriental vegetables all w i n t e r l o n g . It's also

possible to plant some members of the o n i o n

family in the fall in order to get a larger or early

crop next spring and summer. C a l l y o u r c o u n t y

extension service for local advice and conditions.

As y o u continue gardening, you'll learn w h i c h vegetables are hardier in y o u r particular area. W i n d and rain have a lot to do w i t h plant survival and h o w m u c h protection y o u need to provide.

Special Cold Varieties

Salad from y o u r garden d u r i n g the coldest m o n t h s of winter? Y o u bet. A fall b o x (that's just a S F G b o x that's used d u r i n g the fall) can provide fresh salad each w e e k d u r i n g the w i n t e r w i t h o u t a greenhouse. Here's h o w : select fast-growing vegetables for y o u r winter garden. T r y a n y of the hardy salad greens a n d root crops, but l o o k for special cold-tolerant varieties. Every seed c o m p a n y offers different varieties so l o o k t h r o u g h catalogs a n d select those that are r e c o m m e n d e d for c o l d a n d w i n t e r g r o w i n g . L o o k for names that have w o r d s in t h e m like "Arctic," "Frost K i n g , " or

" S n o w M a n " (I just m a d e that last o n e up).

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Pick a Spot

N o w , p i c k the sunniest, m o s t sheltered spot y o u can find for y o u r winter garden. It doesn't have to be in the m a i n garden; next to the house or garage is better, especially if y o u have w h i t e painted brick or stucco walls, since they will reflect quite a bit of heat into y o u r miniature garden. R e m e m b e r that the sun is very l o w in the sky d u r i n g the winter, a n d the place that m a y have been in full sun during the s u m m e r could n o w very well be a very shady place in the winter. D o n ' t place the b o x under the r o o f or gutter line, or you'll risk the chance that rain, sleet, or s n o w will fall on it. You'll be in g o o d shape if the area is sheltered from strong winter winds and if it gets a m a x i m u m a m o u n t of w i n t e r sunlight. It doesn't have to be a p e r m a n e n t spot either. First, lay d o w n a sheet of plastic or sturdy w e e d cloth and in the spring y o u can pick everything up and return the area back to its former use.

Snuggle Up

jBtfs* book on

Install your winter box, fill it w i t h Mel's M i x , and start your planting.

gardening I've

Since the plants will g r o w very slowly c o m p a r e d to spring a n d

ever read, wish

s u m m e r and since you'll be harvesting every leaf almost as it is ready,

I'd found it

y o u can plant your produce closer than the usual spacing, even as

years ago.

close as one-half the r e c o m m e n d e d distance.

—Mindy from New fersey

Insulate

Provide s o m e insulation a r o u n d the winter box, by b a n k i n g the outside w i t h soil or placing bales of h a y all around. Provide a tight-fitting cover or make a double-layer cover w i t h plastic to keep the soil and air from losing heat at night. T h r o w a blanket or tarp on the b o x for those extra cold nights.

Putting Your Garden to Bed

W h e n it is time to p u t the S F G to bed, we do this the same w a y we put our children to bed. Y o u wouldn't think of sending t h e m to their r o o m a n d p a y i n g n o attention t o t h e m w o u l d you? Instead, w e encourage t h e m to prepare for b e d t i m e — t o brush their teeth, get one last drink, fix the b e d just the w a y they w a n t it, a n d then spend s o m e time reading a b e d t i m e story. T h e n it's finally lights out.

Well, treat y o u r garden the same way. Don't leave it a mess w i t h dead plants and debris lying about. T i d y it up and make it l o o k good.

N o w is an excellent time to m i x a little extra c o m p o s t in each b o x a n d s m o o t h and level it o u t so it will be all ready for the spring planting. That's never h a p p e n e d before w i t h single-row gardening.

N o w it's n o t o n l y possible, b u t also v e r y practical.

Extending the Seasons

177

T h e little extra w o r k y o u do in the fall will keep y o u r garden attractive a n d n e a t - l o o k i n g all w i n t e r a n d m a k e y o u r springtime garden easier to begin. You'll simply go out, rake off the m u l c h cover (remember y o u r rototilling neighbor?), and start planting either at the regular time or early.

Grids in Winter

Y o u can remove, clean, fold, a n d h a n g up the grids n o w or leave t h e m o n the boxes all winter, w h i c h will r e m i n d y o u o f h o w m u c h fun y o u have n o w w i t h gardening. W h a t I'm suggesting for the end of the season is really no different than w h a t I r e c o m m e n d y o u do all season long. K e e p y o u r garden neat, tidy, and attractive. If y o u keep it in tip-top condition (and that's not too difficult w i t h a n o - w o r k garden), y o u will enjoy it so m u c h more.

Take Notes

T h e o n l y t h i n g y o u m i g h t w a n t to do is record in a n o t e b o o k or journal some of the highlights of this past y e a r — n o t e s for improvements, special varieties of plants, and tips for next year.

Decorate for the Holidays

You'll enjoy S F G m u c h m o r e i f y o u keep y o u r garden neat a n d attractive at all times. Since y o u no longer have to hoe the weeds or dig and cultivate the soil, you'll have time and energy for the pleasant things like t r i m m i n g off yellow or dead lower leaves, dead blossoms, removing plants, or dead and pest-damaged leaves or entire plants.

B u t w h a t a b o u t winter? N o t m u c h w o r k t o d o after p u t t i n g the garden to bed, b u t y o u m i g h t think about decorating the garden so it still looks nice all winter l o n g or at least for the holidays.

Thanksgiving

M a k e a nice arrangement in one or more boxes of a fall scene, like a stack of c o r n w i t h p u m p k i n s . S o m e of the boxes c o u l d just have a bale or t w o of hay or straw. M a y b e even a scarecrow in a box. T h o s e boxes could be covered w i t h cloth (like white garden floating covers) or old colored sheets tacked or stapled d o w n .

Christmas or Winter

Here are some ideas that will m a k e your S F G festive during the bleak winter months.

1. M a k e Christmas boxes o u t of your garden boxes by using old colored or striped sheets, a tarp or table cloth, or floating garden covers.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

2. T h i n k ahead w h e n y o u go to yard sales or the thrift shop.

M a n y covers could serve double d u t y as frost covers in the fall, then decorative covers in the winter.

3. Use w i d e , colorful ribbon, rope, or contrasting colored strips of sheets to tie b o w s on the boxes. T u c k in greens a n d pine cones, even lights if y o u can get an extension cord to the garden. ( R e m e m b e r now, y o u r garden no longer needs to be w a y out back; it can be right near your back door where you'll see it more often.)

4. D e c o r a t e y o u r vertical frames w i t h decorative lights, pine branches, pine cones, and bird feeders.

After Christmas, stick a discarded Christmas tree in the center of each box, and m a k e t h e m into bird feeders, w i t h or w i t h o u t lights.

T i e a string from each b o x corner to the treetop for support.

Start Small

T h i s chapter teaches us h o w to extend all the seasons and h o w doing that can give us an extra 50 percent of gardening time. H o w exciting!

If y o u read through all this and felt a little discouraged or glazed-over, don't worry. If y o u have never g r o w n out-of-season, add just a few features here and there as y o u gain more confidence. It can be a really fun challenge to any gardener—regardless of experience. As w i t h all n e w gardening projects, my r e c o m m e n d a t i o n is to start small in order to gain experience, confidence, a n d p l e a s u r e — t h e n expand.

A n d just in case y o u need more convincing, remember that A l l N e w Square Foot G a r d e n i n g eliminates so m a n y gardening tasks so y o u have the time and energy to extend the seasons.

OUT WITH THE OLD

OLD WAY

NEW WAY

1. Clean off summer residue

Do this daily and it won't accumulate

2. Turn over the soil

No longer necessary

3. Perform a pH test

No longer necessary

4. Add all the humus you can get

No longer necessary

5. Add peat moss if no humus

No longer necessary

6. Add new 3 to 6 inch layer

No longer necessary

7. Dig in manure or leaf mold

No longer necessary

8. Add some fertilizer

No longer necessary

9. Use a fork, shovel, spade

No longer necessary-use trowel

10. Dig as deep as you can

No longer necessary

11. Deeper is better

No longer necessary

12. Break up clods, remove stones

No longer necessary

Special Gardens snd Gardeners

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

No Yard

S o m e t i m e s a p r o p e r t y m a y have limited space for a garden. If you're in a n o - p r o p e r t y situation, t h i n k creatively a n d closer to y o u r front or b a c k door. For instance, patios, decks, a n d balconies always have r o o m for a small garden. A corner of a patio or b a l c o n y c o u l d c o n t a i n several 2 x 2-foot boxes. T h e s e c o u l d be stacked up creatively at different heights to f o r m a very attractive corner garden that w o u l d use less space than a 4 x 4-foot area. T h e boxes c o u l d be placed on l o w tables of different heights or on s o m e t h i n g like m i l k crates or cinder blocks in order to give each one a different height. If y o u install a vertical frame w i t h netting along b o t h walls or just tack the netting to the walls, it c o u l d fan out so it gets larger as it gets higher to e x p a n d the garden area even larger. A n o t h e r o p t i o n , of course, is at the base of and even on t o p of a b a l c o n y or d e c k railing. Y o u c o u l d install 6- to 1 2 - i n c h w i d e boxes on the floor or bolted to the t o p of or h a n g i n g f r o m the railing on b o t h sides. T h i s w o u l d create almost a wall of gardens e n d i n g up in quite a few available square feet.

Wooded Yard

If y o u have a heavily w o o d e d yard, then y o u don't have t o o m a n y choices. O n e solution is to locate several boxes a r o u n d the house wherever they m i g h t receive e n o u g h sunlight. Your boxes could be on the ground or even on legs next to the house. If y o u had a southern exposure w i t h e n o u g h sunlight, y o u could p u t a double-decker l o n g box against the house. O t h e r than that, the only choice w o u l d be to m a k e a clearing in the w o o d s , b u t that w o u l d have to be a fairly substantial area to get y o u r S F G boxes o u t of the shade. If these suggestions don't w o r k — i t ' s shade gardening for y o u .

Hillsides

W h a t if the only space y o u have for a garden is on a hillside or fairly steep slope?

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Some easy-to-grow annuals include

marigold, sunflower, and zinnia.

Special Gardens and Gardeners

181

If its facing south, it m a y be worthwhile to develop it for your A l l N e w Square F o o t G a r d e n . T h e l i m i t i n g factors are h o w steep the slope is and h o w big your garden is going to be. You're in luck w i t h a S F G because y o u can build boxes that will fit into the lay of the land.

Basically, in order to have a level garden so y o u r soil a n d water don't run off, you're g o i n g to c u t a path into the hillside w i d e e n o u g h to m a k e a garden area. If y o u w a n t a 4-foot-wide bed, y o u will have to reach in from b o t h sides and that can be too m u c h of a stretch from the uphill side. However, w i t h a 3-foot wide box, w h i c h will be higher than the downhill aisle, y o u will be able to reach in the full 3 feet from the downhill side because y o u are standing up rather than kneeling d o w n next to the box.

To get a 3-foot w i d e level spot, y o u just cut into the hill and m o v e the soil downhill to form the 3-foot w i d e areas.

T h i n k ahead about water availability, time, and the cost to dig and then level a pathway wide e n o u g h to h o l d both y o u and y o u r garden.

T h e steeper the slope, the harder it becomes.

Decks

Lt's such a

positive thing

W h e n creating deck gardens in an apartment or c o n d o m i n i u m , be sure to consider the people b e l o w y o u a n d h o w you're g o i n g to

you're doing,

water. Y o u r garden m a y n o t be a p r o b l e m w h e n it rains, b u t w h e n

helping people

it is s u n n y a n d bright a n d y o u r garden water drips d o w n on the

around the

neighbors while they are at their barbeque below, they m a y not l o o k

world to grow

favorably u p o n y o u or your garden.

There are several things y o u can do about this situation. First of

their own food."

all, since Mel's M i x holds water so well, it's highly unlikely y o u will

—Regan from the USA

overwater, w h i c h will prevent a lot of d r i p p i n g or excess water leakage. Just in case, t h o u g h , y o u can always choose n o t to drill drain holes at consistent intervals over the entire b o t t o m of your S F G , but only a couple in one corner. T h e n , slightly slope the b o x towards this one corner and put a decorative vase or other container underneath to catch any drips that m a y leak out.

Railings

A n o t h e r popular location for a garden is on a railing—particularly on a w o o d e n railing. Railing boxes m a k e a very decorative a n d excellent garden, particularly if y o u include trailing plants that add some color a n d character. If y o u have railings that are flat, it is very easy to set a b o x right on top of it. For stability, it should be bolted d o w n . If y o u can't bolt y o u r boxes to the railing and you're higher than the first floor, I w o u l d place the boxes on the floor. C o n s i d e r the strength a n d size of y o u r railing and the surrounding environ-

182

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

m e n t to m a k e sure y o u r railing boxes aren't t o o big. T h e r e are various holders sold at h o m e i m p r o v e m e n t stores that snap o n t o y o u r railings a n d can a c c o m m o d a t e standard-sized boxes. T h e s e boxes can h a n g over the outside or inside of y o u r railing, d e p e n d i n g o n y o u r preference. O n e advantage o f h a v i n g the b o x h a n g over the outside edge is the b o x won't take up a n y of y o u r valuable d e c k space. In addition, should it drip w h e n you're watering, the water will bypass the d e c k below. T h e r e is o n e safety concern and that is a n y t h i n g falling. If y o u r b o x is on the inside of the railing, it doesn't have far to fall and won't hurt anyone.

Grandparents

O n e of the greatest bonds that I have found between grandparents and grandchildren is formed during a gardening project, even if the visit is short. Give your grandchild a garden or just a square, let h i m write his name on the grid, encourage her to plant her garden, and y o u may find your grandchildren will keep in touch more often just to find out h o w the garden is growing. T h i s , of course, can w o r k just the opposite w a y w h e n the grandparent visits the child's h o m e and they plant a garden there. A n d , of course, there will be great anticipation for the next visit and w h a t has happened in the garden. Selecting plants for children is quite simple; plants should be easy to grow, fast growing for quick results, and something that will produce an exciting result.

Gardening for Seniors

S o m e people find it difficult to do hard, manual labor like digging up the existing soil, as well as getting d o w n on the ground and then getting back up again. W i t h S F G , the simple answer is to just raise the garden up to the gardener's height. It can be a sit-down garden, w h i c h is particularly adaptable for a person in a wheelchair or s o m e o n e that w a n t s to sit a n d garden. A little higher w o u l d be a stand-up garden if that makes it easier to tend; since there is very little m a i n t e n a n c e — j u s t n u r t u r i n g — y o u are not standing for l o n g periods of time. A n d the gardens, once they have a p l y w o o d b o t t o m installed, can be m o v e d to a n y location for the c o n v e n i e n c e a n d pleasure of the gardener.

Y o u can n o w put various sizes of boxes on patios, near the pool, the back door, or any pleasant area around the house that is easy for a senior to attend to their garden. Of course, there is no longer the n e e d to w a l k w a y o u t b a c k carrying a b u n c h of h e a v y - d u t y tools.

N o w , it is just a matter of going to your garden and tending it w i t h the minimal a m o u n t of effort, work, and tools. T h e r e is no weeding, and because we are starting w i t h a perfect soil mix, there is never any

Special Gardens and Gardeners

183

heavy digging. T h e r e is no need to even have shovels or forks or any

Wheelchair, sitdown, or standup

large tools, just one trowel.

gardening is now a real possibility.

Sometimes seniors enjoy out-of-season gardening because they

The best support for a tabletop

have the time to tend their gardens during the tricky, out-of-season

garden is a strong table with four

weather. T h i s also gets t h e m m o v i n g about out of doors more often,

legs, giving all-around access. The

w h i c h is another asset.

less desirable method is the use of

sawhorses, which may be sturdy,

Special Needs Gardening

but limit the access. The least

desirable method is a table with

S F G s have gone a lot of places over the years. They've been placed on

just a center support, which could

wheels; we k n o w of a veterans hospital where a S F G was built on a

be unstable.

gurney a n d w h e e l e d f r o m the r o o f d o w n the service elevator so it c o u l d b e taken t o b e d r i d d e n patients. T h e S F G F o u n d a t i o n has taught the blind; I designed a S F G for the H e l e n Keller Institute on L o n g Island where blind students learned gardening. We have also taught at the school for the deaf in Salt L a k e City, U t a h . O t h e r worthwhile places we have installed S F G s are in prisons and troubled y o u t h facilities. Building a small portable garden (in sizes from 2 x 2

up to 4 x 4 w i t h a p l y w o o d b o t t o m added) allows people to participate w h o otherwise m i g h t not have been able to garden.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

EVEN FOR SENIOR CITIZENS

As we get older, it may become

harder to do certain things. With

SFG, you'll see another big

advantage when you harvest 1

square foot and add that trowel

full of compost. There's no heavy

digging! You can readily visualize

how conventional gardening

would become too much work

and too much effort, causing

someone to give it up. SFG has

the advantages of small space, no

heavy equipment, and raised

boxes; it almost boils down to

just planting a few seeds, growing,

and caring for them. Gardening

then becomes a very simple, easy,

and pleasant, task. So you'll

never have to stop gardening if

you're using the All New Square

Foot Garden method.

Gardening in Schools

O n e thing I've learned from teaching S F G over the last thirty years is that kids love to garden. T h e y are so excited about g r o w i n g plants.

F r o m the beginning, it was obvious that S F G is perfect for teaching arithmetic and all kinds of m a t h and, that in fact, anything in the

Special Gardens and Gardeners

185

scientific field is easily taught using g a r d e n i n g as the vehicle. B u t then I began to see that a teacher c o u l d readily relate all subjects to gardening.

O n e of the best examples of this is a teacher in California n a m e d Sandy. She teaches every subject in the classroom through the class's Square Foot G a r d e n s . O n e year, the final project was to have each student write me a letter telling me a b o u t their garden. T h e y each described w h a t they liked best a n d then drew a picture illustrating it. T h e y were learning p e n m a n s h i p , spelling, p r o n u n c i a t i o n , letter writing, and the ability to describe observations and feelings. D u r i n g the year, S a n d y covered m a n y aspects of science and art, as well as economics, history, language, c o m m u n i c a t i o n , a n d the environmental issues. T h e class p r o d u c e d a play a n d video a b o u t S F G a n d invited parents a n d the rest of the school to c o m e learn w i t h t h e m .

T h i s , of course, gave S a n d y the o p p o r t u n i t y to teach play writing, acting, stage presence, c o s t u m e design a n d m a k i n g , advertising, publicity, p r o m o t i o n , a n d so m u c h m o r e . A side benefit is that, in addition to school subjects, the children learned the important values of sharing, nurturing, and responsibility.

We have w o r k e d w i t h all age groups from preschool through high school using gardening as a teaching tool. Suddenly learning begins to have some type of m e a n i n g in their lives, and they can begin to see the value of the subjects they have been learning in the past.

A Square Yard in the School Yard

T h e only change in S F G for children is that we make the b o x a little smaller because they can't reach in as far. Instead they garden in a 3 x 3-foot b o x , w h i c h equals a square yard. As I m e n t i o n e d before, this is h o w we got the name for our school program, "A Square Yard i n the S c h o o l Yard." W e have the description a n d p h o t o s o f m a n y school programs on our website on the School G a r d e n i n g page.

A plan needs to be made on w h a t to do w i t h the gardens during the summer vacation period. T h e r e are lots of solutions—all y o u need to do is brainstorm w i t h the students, and the brainstorming itself becomes another learning experience!

Community Gardens

W i t h S F G , it is possible to have p o c k e t gardens anywhere in the community, even right in a city. It doesn't take an entire e m p t y lot now, and it doesn't have to be a huge project to convert space into a c o m m u n i t y garden. It is n o w possible to take just a corner of that lot or any other small s p a c e — p e r h a p s even in an existing city p a r k — a n d have a very small c o m m u n i t y Square Foot Garden. Each person can have from one 4 x 4-foot b o x up to an area of perhaps 12 x 1 2 , w h i c h

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

w o u l d enable t h e m t o have four o r m o r e boxes. O n e o f the best things a b o u t using S F G in a c o m m u n i t y garden is that since there are no w e e d s , the garden doesn't b e c o m e an overrun eyesore by the m i d d l e of the summer. T h i s means it is m u c h easier to operate a n d get p u b l i c a n d official approval. If y o u w a n t to start a c o m m u n i t y garden, I w o u l d emphasize the need again to start small, gain experience, b e c o m e successful, a n d then e x p a n d d u r i n g the s e c o n d season or year.

C o m m u n i t y gardens do require a set of guidelines for w h a t participants can a n d c a n n o t g r o w so they don't interfere w i t h their a

neighbor's garden; the guidelines s h o u l d also cover the hours of

Your method

operation, use of water, and maintenance of the gardens so they l o o k

is awesome. My

neat a n d attractive. T h e use of pesticides a n d fertilizer was always a

3-year-old and I

b i g c o n c e r n w i t h c o m m u n i t y gardens, b u t that issue can be totally

have a blast with

eliminated w i t h S F G .

two4x 6boxes."

In the layout of the garden, it w o u l d be nice to have several tables w h e r e people in wheelchairs c o u l d w h e e l right up to their

-Rich from North Carolina

assigned garden plot. A l s o , several benches a n d s o m e shade are always a g o o d feature.

Group Projects

A S F G could be a demonstration project for m a n y different groups, i n c l u d i n g children's gardens, scouts, 4 - H ' e r s , Master Gardeners, botanical gardens, a n d garden clubs. A g r o u p c o u l d create a salad garden w i t h all the fixings—lettuce, tomatoes, root crops, and edible flowers. Each square w o u l d have a nice sign stating w h a t is there and h o w it is used in a salad. A n o t h e r idea w o u l d be an herb display w i t h signs and an invitation to touch the plants.

T h e nice part a b o u t the idea of using a S F G is it requires so little maintenance yet produces such a spectacular showcase. It is an easy w a y of attracting n e w members or of putting on a demonstration at a function. A n o t h e r nice thing about it is, at the end of a fair or show, four p e o p l e can p i c k up the garden, p u t it into a van, a n d take it h o m e . In that situation, y o u can even include a shortened vertical frame so that it w o u l d still fit in the vehicle and yet w o u l d add a third dimension to your display.

Humanitarian Projects

For some, gardening is an enjoyable hobby, but for m a n y it can mean the difference between life and death. O n e step up from s t a r v i n g —

the w o r s t c o n d i t i o n i n the w o r l d — i s poverty a n d c o n t i n u a l h u n g e r — a n d that's w h e r e S F G c o m e s in. W e can help solve the hunger situation. We have a billion people w h o need help, and the

Special Gardens and Gardeners

187

solution is to teach t h e m h o w to help themselves. T h e y need to be shown h o w and then helped to start just one Square Meter G a r d e n of their own; the rest will follow. We teach t h e m to use straight c o m p o s t in their gardens because of the lack of peat moss a n d vermiculite in m a n y of these areas of the w o r l d ; they can create c o m p o s t for free, while i m p r o v i n g their e n v i r o n m e n t . W e believe that, instead o f our governments a n d h u m a n i t a r i a n organizations s e n d i n g f o o d , they should start educational programs that teach people h o w to compost and h o w to create a S F G garden. It w o u l d cost less, produce more, allow people to b e c o m e self-sufficient, take very little effort, and yet deliver worthwhile results.

T h a t is w h y the S F G Foundation is so intent on taking Square Foot Gardening worldwide w i t h its international counterpart Square Meter Gardening. We feel it can truly m a k e a difference in the every-day lives of so m a n y millions of people.

On My Soapbox

Well, here I a m , on my soapbox trying to solve worldwide problems w h e n y o u just w a n t to learn h o w to have a better garden in y o u r yard. But w h a t this b o o k is all about is h o w S F G can reach and help so m a n y more people.

That's the significant and imperative message I w a n t to bring to the world. W i l l y o u help me? Y o u c a n — b y e n c o u r a g i n g others to start a S F G . G e t involved in y o u r c o m m u n i t y or stretch y o u r involvement to the entire world. A n y o n e , anywhere in the w o r l d can n o w have a small square meter garden right at their back door. T h e nutritional value of the children's diet will improve dramatically and step-by-step, and as they expand their garden, that family will be closer to self-sufficiency and independence from government and private aid programs. Y o u k n o w the saying, " G i v e a m a n a fish and y o u feed h i m for a day. Teach a m a n to fish and y o u feed h i m for a lifetime." T h e w o r l d hunger problem can never be solved until we help people help themselves, step-by-step, square-by-square. T h e n , maybe the saying will be, " S h o w a family h o w to Square Meter Garden, and they will feed themselves forever."

Appendix

1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 1 M 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

Basil and Beyond 189

At A Glance Vegetables 192

At A Glance Herbs & Flowers 193

Plant Profiles 194

Mel's Final Summary 246

Planting Charts 252

Glossary 260

Planting Grids 264

Mel's Mailbox 266

Index 268

Meet Mel Bartholomew 272

Basil and Beyond

A l t h o u g h we associate basil w i t h Italian cooking, it is an important ingredient in A s i a n cuisine t o o . 'Siam Q u e e n ' is a spicy T h a i basil w i t h an intense flavor a n d fragrance. ' H o l y Basil' is a sacred herb in India where it is used in religious ceremonies a n d planted a r o u n d H i n d u temples. I n t r o d u c e d to E u r o p e in the sixteenth century as a culinary and medicinal herb, it made its w a y to England and A m e r i c a in the mid-seventeenth century.

Basil is used as the perfect c o m p l e m e n t to s u m m e r tomatoes. For a s u m m e r t i m e treat, c o m b i n e tomatoes, basil, garlic, olive oil, a n d balsamic vinegar in a f o o d processor, spread on crusty bread, and sprinkle w i t h Parmesan cheese.

Six plants o f ' S w e e t G e n o v e s e ' will yield e n o u g h leaves to m a k e pesto all year w i t h o u t overdosing on it. A mixture of basil, garlic, Parmesan cheese, a n d olive oil, pesto is a treat w i t h a distinctive Italian flavor. T r y m a k i n g pesto bread instead of garlic bread, or use pesto as an imaginative s a n d w i c h spread.

2 cups basil leaves

2 cloves garlic

V2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 tbsp. R o m a n o cheese

li cup pine nuts or walnuts

l

dash of salt

V2 cup olive oil

water

C o m b i n e basil, garlic, cheeses, nuts, and salt in a food processor or blender. W i t h the machine running, slowly add olive oil. T h i n w i t h a few drops of water until it reaches the consistency of o a t m e a l — n o t too thick b u t n o t runny. Let stand 5 m i n u t e s before serving. Toss with cooked pasta; gemelli and penne hold the pesto nicely.

For a creamier taste and consistency, add 3 tablespoons of whole milk ricotta cheese. For a color a n d taste sensation, add h c u p of

l

sun-dried tomatoes.

To freeze basil for pesto, w a s h a n d dry 2 cups of leaves (a salad spinner works well), and c h o p t h e m in a small food processor w i t h

190

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

/4 cup olive oil. Scrape the mixture o n t o plastic wrap, fold it u p , and

1

p u t the resulting patty in the freezer. To use, defrost the patty, and p u t it in the food processor w i t h all the other ingredients. Just remember that there is already U cup of olive oil in the patty, so be sure to only l

use an additional /4 c u p to m a k e up the V2 c u p called for in the

1

recipe. S t o c k up d u r i n g the p e a k g r o w i n g season, a n d use t h e m all year l o n g in the recipe above. Freezing basil in this w a y does no noticeable h a r m to the color or flavor, so y o u can have the taste of an Italian s u m m e r all year round.

W h e n planting basil close to tomatoes and peppers, it is thought they will all g r o w stronger a n d m o r e flavorful, a n d the basil will prevent some of the insects and diseases associated w i t h tomatoes. A layer of basil leaves over a bowl of tomatoes will repel fruit flies.

'Spicy G l o b e ' dwarf basil is a beautiful plant. It grows in adorable little balls perfect for a front-of-the-border accent, w i t h the added attraction of having small leaves that are the perfect size for adding to herbed butters or vinegars. A l t h o u g h c i n n a m o n and licorice basil have a delicious scent, they are an acquired taste for some people. T h e flavor of lemon basil, on the other hand, is an irresistible mixture of sweet and citrus that complements the lighter foods of summer. Try it in place of parsley w h e n c o o k i n g rice or chicken. Or make a light, sweet pesto w i t h l e m o n basil, olive oil, l e m o n juice, a n d Parmesan cheese to top s u m m e r tomatoes, bread, or pasta. 'Sweet D a n i , ' an All-A m e r i c a Selections winner in 1 9 9 8 , is as pretty as it is tasty.

Regardless of w h a t y o u call it or w h a t your heritage m a y be, if y o u are g o i n g to g r o w one herb this summer, basil is the o n e to choose.

A n d if y o u really must grow only one variety of basil, make it 'Sweet Genovese.'

Growing and Caring for Basil

Start basil from seed outdoors after the last spring frost (basil needs w a r m nights), or indoors about 4 to 6 weeks before. Or choose plants at y o u r local garden center, b u t keep t h e m sheltered until that last frost. O n c e h o t weather sets in, basil plants will g r o w quickly, b u t they won't a m o u n t to m u c h if they get chilled early in the season.

Basil plants will turn black and die at the slightest hint of frost.

S o w seeds or set transplants in y o u r S F G or a w i n d o w b o x in full sun and keep well watered throughout the growing season. Pinch off flower buds to save the plant's energy for leaf growth. Also pinch out g r o w i n g tips to keep the plants bushy.

To harvest basil, cut whole stems just above a pair of lower leaves.

T h e plant will g r o w n e w stems from that point. O n l y the leaves are used in fresh or frozen recipes; the stems go to the m u l c h pile.

Basil and Beyond

191

To dry basil, hang entire stems upside d o w n o u t of direct sunlight.

R e m o v e the dried leaves f r o m the stems a n d store in an airtight container. C r u s h dried leaves into y o u r favorite sauces for a subtle basil flavor.

N o w let's talk about some other plants.

192 ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Basil and Beyond

193

*In some parts of the country and under certain weather conditions, these can be grown in this season.

N/A = Not advised to store seed.

194

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Asparagus

Description

Fresh, tender asparagus spears from the spring garden have no rival in the s u p e r m a r k e t — a n d can be easily g r o w n in a Square F o o t G a r d e n . Because it is a perennial and takes a couple of years before the first harvest, p r o d u c i n g o n l y one crop a year, we suggest y o u plant an entire 4' x 4' b o x o n l y in asparagus. T h e plants get very b u s h y t h r o u g h o u t the s u m m e r and need quite a bit of r o o m to spread out so leave g o o d aisle space a r o u n d it. W h e n y o u invest in an asparagus plant, consider the location very carefully, as it can last for up to 20 years.

Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: 10 to 12 weeks before last spring frost. Soak seeds overnight and plant at least

/2 inch deep.

l

Transplanting: 2 to 4 weeks before last spring frost.

Seeds Outdoors: 2 to A weeks before the last spring frost, plant seeds that have been soaked in water overnight in a hole between h and 1 inch deep.

x

Traditionally, y o u b u y and plant 2-year-old roots, one per square foot. But I've found that if y o u can afford to b u y e n o u g h of the roots, four per square foot will produce a m u c h bigger crop earlier.

T h e c o n v e n t i o n a l w a y of planting asparagus is to p u t a b o u t 3 inches of y o u r Mel's M i x d o w n , mark your spacing (either the one or four per square foot), make little m o u n d s at the plant location, and then drape the roots (purchased at the nursery or t h r o u g h mail order) over each one of those little m o u n d s . T h e n p o u r in the rest of the Mel's M i x (about 3 more inches, to total 6 inches deep), w h i c h covers the roots an inch or two.

If y o u have lots of time but little money, raise your o w n transplants from seed. It takes an extra year or t w o , but costs peanuts.

Growing

Watering: Weekly, more in the summer.

Maintenance: C u t the foliage to the ground in fall as it turns yellow and before the berries ripen.

Asparagus self-sows readily, often with less than perfect results.

Basil and Beyond 195

Harvesting

How: C u t the largest asparagus shoots at the surface of the soil w i t h a sharp serrated knife, making a slanting cut.

When: Harvest asparagus in late spring, when the shoots are 4 to 6 inches tall, for about 6 weeks.

Spears taller than 6 inches can be t o u g h . Harvest from mature plants only: don't harvest from first-year plants, and only sparingly, say one or two shoots per plant, the second year. Three-year-old plants are considered mature.

Preparing and Using

Asparagus is best used as fresh as possible, but it can be stored for a couple of days in the refrigerator, standing on end on a wet pad or in a jar of cold water. Asparagus can be eaten raw, steamed, boiled, grilled, roasted, or cooked in casseroles and salads. Tall narrow asparagus kettles are designed to c o o k the spears upright, immersing the stems while the tender heads steam. C o o k asparagus briefly as it can become mushy if overcooked.

Problems

Slugs, asparagus beetle, rust, Fusarium root rot.

Hints and Tips

After the spring harvest, the r e m a i n i n g shoots g r o w into a large, lacy plant in the garden, and the fronds are lovely to use as filler in flower bouquets.

M a l e plants are the m o s t desirable as they are the most productive and do not set seed.

196

ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Description

Prolific a n d easy to grow, b e a n s — w h e t h e r of the b u s h or pole v a r i e t y — a r e a terrific crop for a n y garden. A lot of gardeners think that pole beans have better flavor, while the bush types taste m o r e like "green beans." Bush beans grow lower to the ground; each plant yields one large crop all at once, w i t h a smaller crop a few w e e k s later. Pole beans, w h i c h are g r o w n on a vertical frame, take longer to grow, b u t provide a steady c o n t i n u o u s yield all season long. A single p l a n t i n g of pole types is adequate, w h i l e additional plantings of the bush types are n e e d e d to have a constant harvest.

Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: N o .

Transplanting: D o e s not transplant well.

Seeds Outdoors: Presoak seeds thirty minutes for faster sprouting. Water soil and cover square w i t h a chicken-wire cage to keep out birds. Seeds sprout in 5 to 10 days; remove cage after t w o weeks.

For a continuous harvest of bush beans, plant a n e w square of a different color or variety every 2 weeks all s u m m e r long.

Growing

Watering: Beans must have regular waterings. Do not allow the soil to dry out, but keep the leaves dry.

Maintenance: W e e d weekly if y o u see any weeds sprouting.

Harvesting

How: Break or cut each stem holding the bean p o d (there's no h a r m done if the bean breaks and part of the p o d stays on the vine). Do not pull on the plant w h e n harvesting.

When: Pick beans w h e n they are still small and tender. Do not allow t h e m to get so large that pods bulge w i t h seeds; the plant will stop producing and the best flavor is past.

Preparing and Using

W a s h and refrigerate if not using immediately. Beans do not store well, so try to use t h e m the same day they are picked. In the old days, beans were called string beans and the string had to be pulled off before cooking. N e w e r varieties—called snap b e a n s — o n l y form strings if y o u let t h e m get too t o u g h and large. Beans contain lots of vitamins A, B, and C, as well as calcium and iron.

T h e r e are p r o b a b l y as m a n y ways to prepare and serve beans as there are varieties in the seed catalogs. Beans are g o o d eaten raw w h e n they are s m a l l — r e m e m b e r , the smaller the bean, the m o r e tender it will be. R a w beans can be served w h o l e w i t h a dip or cut into pieces for addition to a salad.

C o o k a n y size bean. T h e y can be steamed, boiled, or stir-fried, then served individually w i t h a little seasoning, grated cheese, or parsley. Beans are excellent additions to soups, stews, or m i x e d vegetable dishes. Leftovers are easily marinated for addition to a salad or use as a relish; I've even heard of people a d d i n g m a r i n a t e d beans to a s a n d w i c h , along w i t h lettuce, t o m a t o , a n d cheese!

H o w does that sound?

Problems

A p h i d s , Japanese a n d M e x i c a n bean beetles, birds, rabbits, w o o d c h u c k s , a n d deer; blight, rust a n d mildew. S o u n d s like a lot b u t they are still w o r t h w h i l e .

Basil and Beyond

197

Hints and Tips

If your square of bush beans gets floppy and starts spreading over adjacent squares, just run a string around them as a group to keep t h e m in their square. It won't harm the harvest.

Description

Beets are a wonderful vegetable to grow because they're easy and both the roots and the greens (tops) are suitable for eating. T h e y are m o s t l y pest- a n d disease-free a n d resistant to b o t h fall and spring frosts. T h e root gets very hard w h e n grown in the hot s u m m e r season.

Starting

Location: Partial shade or full sun.

Seeds Indoors: N o .

Transplanting: Does not transplant well.

Seeds Outdoors: Each seed in the packet is actually a cluster of two to five individual seeds, so several sprouts will c o m e up f r o m each seed planted. Plant one presoaked seed in each space li inch l

deep three weeks before the last spring frost. To have a c o n t i n u o u s harvest, plant a n e w square every three w e e k s except in the hottest part of the summer. After the sprouts are about 1 inch tall, cut off all except the strongest plant f r o m each seed cluster.

Growing

Watering: Plants need constant and even moisture.

Maintenance: Keep damaged leaves picked off, mulch in hot weather, and weed weekly.

Harvesting

How: Pull up the entire plant with the largest top. If you're not sure of bulb size, dig around the root with your fingers to uncover the top to check the size. To harvest greens, individual leaves can be cut at any time, but don't take more than one or t w o from each plant.

When: Roots are the m o s t tender w h e n half size, so start pulling w h e n the roots are approximately the size of a Ping-Pong ball and continue until they are full size. Leaves are usable at any size.

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ALL NEW SQUARE FOOT GARDENING

Preparing and Using

Use greens w h o l e or chopped in fresh salads, or c o o k them like spinach. Roots are rich in iron and v i t a m i n B. Serve h o t — b o i l e d or steamed. M a r i n a t e leftovers for a salad or relish. T r y sauteing shredded raw beets quickly and serve hot, or try them cooked and chilled (shredded, sliced, or diced) in salads or mixed w i t h cottage cheese. Small whole beets can also be cooked and served w i t h an orange sauce, salad dressing, or a spoonful of sour cream.

Problems

C u t w o r m s , slugs and snails, leaf miners, rabbits, w o o d c h u c k s , and deer. Relatively disease-free.

Hints and Tips

Try a square each of several varieties for different tastes, texture, and colors.

Broccoli

Description

Broccoli requires cool weather but is great in a Square Foot Garden. It is very frost hardy and grows well in the spring and fall; it doesn't do well in the s u m m e r heat.

Starting

Location: Needs full sun.

Seeds Indoors: Plant 5 to 10 seeds in a cup o f vermiculite, or place one seed ' A inch deep in potting soil in each individual c o m p a r t m e n t of a seedling tray, approximately 12 weeks before y o u r last spring frost. Seed will sprout indoors in 5 to 10 days at 70°F. K e e p seed w a r m (70°F) until sprouted; m o v e to full sunlight as soon as the first shoots appear.

Transplanting: Plant outside approximately five weeks before the last spring frost.

Seeds Outdoors: N o t satisfactory, as the season is too short before hot weather arrives.

Basil and Beyond

199

Growing

Watering: Like all m e m b e r s of the cabbage family, you're g r o w i n g leaves a n d flowers, w h i c h n e e d consistent moisture. Never let broccoli dry out or wilt.

Maintenance: W e e d weekly; m u l c h in warmer weather.

Harvesting

How: C u t off the m a i n central head at its base w i t h a sharp, serrated knife or clippers, leaving as many leaves on the plant as possible. W i t h i n a few weeks, n e w side-shoots (miniature heads) will form and grow from the original plant to provide y o u w i t h a second harvest.

When: Harvest as soon as a head appears full a n d tight. T h e head is actually a flower head, w h i c h y o u w a n t to harvest before the flower b u d s o p e n . If y o u have several plants, don't w a i t too l o n g to cut the first o n e after the heads start f o r m i n g , even if it looks a little small. It's still edible w h e n it's small.

Preparing and Using

Broccoli contains vitamins A, B, a n d C, as well as calcium, p h o s p h o r u s , a n d iron. W a s h under running water and soak in cold salted water for t w o hours if there's any chance that a green cabbage w o r m is present in the head. Refrigerate if you're not using immediately. Broccoli can be served fresh and raw w i t h mayonnaise, or a n y dip, or can be c h o p p e d fresh into a salad. To c o o k it, y o u can steam, boil, or stir-fry. T r y it plain w i t h just a little dressing, sour cream, or t o p p e d w i t h a cheese sauce. C o o k e d leftovers can be marinated for addition to salads or relishes. It's an excellent addition to any stir-fried dish; mix it w i t h interesting combinations of meats and vegetables.

Problems

C u t w o r m s , root maggots, green w o r m s , and cabbage w o r m s ; club root.

Hints and Tips

After y o u cut the m a i n stalk, don't remove the plant, as n e w smaller heads will f o r m for a second harvest. Some claim the smaller side-shoots are even more flavorful than the central head.

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Cabbage

Description

C a b b a g e is a very easy vegetable to grow: it's frost hardy and takes very little work. C a b b a g e comes in a variety of shapes, sizes, colors, and leaf textures, and can be grown as an early- to late-season crop; the early-season variety is smaller and faster growing, while the late- or long-season variety is usually bigger. All varieties grow best in cool spring or fall weather.

Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: Plant one seed '/4 inch deep in potting soil in individual compartments o f a seedling tray 12 weeks before y o u r last spring frost. Seeds sprout in 5 to 8 days at 70°F. For a second crop in the fall, repeat the process a n y t i m e in the middle of June (or back up 16 weeks from y o u r first fall frost date). In most places y o u can usually start seeds of a n e w c r o p as soon as you've harvested y o u r spring crop. K e e p w a r m (70°F) until sprouted; m o v e to full sunlight as s o o n as first shoots appear.

Transplanting: Don't let transplants get too large before planting them outside. Late transplants do not form g o o d heads, and sometimes flower the first year if allowed to get too large.

Seeds Outdoors: T h e season is too short to plant seeds directly in the garden for the spring crop, and starting the fall c r o p from seed o u t d o o r s w o u l d tie up t o o m u c h valuable garden space that could be used m o r e productively. Start all seeds in individual containers for transplanting into the garden.

Crowing

Watering: Cabbage needs lots of water to head up properly, but after the head is formed and while it is growing to full size, cut back on watering or the head will grow too fast and split.

Maintenance:^?:^ weekly; cut away any extra-large bottom leaves if they are yellow. If large lower leaves are spreading to other squares, cut away any portions that are "over the line." T h i s will not hurt the plant.

Harvesting

How: C u t off the entire head with a sharp, serrated knife or clippers.

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When: Anytime the head starts to develop and feels firm. If you have several plants, don't wait until all the heads are large. T h e y m a y split in hot weather and go to seed, and you'll be left with nothing.

Preparing and Using

Cabbage is delicious cooked or raw and contains a lot of vitamin C.

Problems

Slugs and snails, aphids, and cabbage w o r m s (their worst enemy).

Hints and Tips

C o v e r cabbages w i t h a b o n n e t of insect netting or floating cover to keep o u t the cabbage m o t h .

Otherwise, watch for eaten leaves and then pick the green cabbage w o r m s off by hand.

Carrot

Description

Carrots are related to the wildflower Q u e e n Anne's lace. T h e seeds are so small that planting them can be very tedious; practice d r o p p i n g a p i n c h (2 or 3 seeds) on s o m e w h i t e paper until y o u get the hang of it. Carrots can be either long and thin or short and stubby; pick the shape and size that best suits your garden. T h e r e is nothing more exciting for kids (including kids my age) than pulling up a carrot they planted months ago! It's sort of like fishing—you don't k n o w h o w big it is until you see it, but you hope it's a whopper.

Starting

Location: Full sun, but can stand partial shade.

Seeds Indoors: N o .

Transplanting: Does not transplant well.

Seeds Outdoors: Sprouts in two to three weeks outdoors. Seeds are very small; try pelleted seeds if necessary. Plant two or three seeds in each of the 16 spaces in a square. Water soil and cover the square w i t h a plastic-covered cage. K e e p the g r o u n d moist at all times, even if it means daily spraving in sunny weather.

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Growing

Watering: Carrots must have constant moisture until they're almost mature to grow quickly and continuously. T h e n reduce w a t e r i n g so the carrots don't crack f r o m overly rapid g r o w t h .

Maintenance: W e e d weekly; otherwise carrots are relatively work-free.

Harvesting

How: Pull up those w i t h the largest tops. If you're not sure w h i c h are biggest, dig around the plant with your fingers to test the size.

When: Pick them early, when they're only half size and at their sweetest and most tender.

Preparing and Using

S c r u b w i t h a vegetable brush, but don't peel t h e m . M o s t of the vitamins are in the skin or close to the surface. R i c h in vitamin A and thiamine (vitamin B i ) , carrots also contain calcium. Carrots are delicious fresh and r a w — s h r e d d e d , sliced thinly, or cut into sticks for snacking. T h e y can be cooked by steaming or boiling. T h e y can be served in a variety of dishes, or added to soups a n d stews, b u t seem best w h e n served w i t h a dressing, a dab of sour cream, or sprinkled w i t h parsley and grated cheese. Carrots are so versatile y o u can even m a k e a w o n d e r f u l l y moist cake w i t h t h e m .

Problems

Carrot rust fly, rabbits, w o o d c h u c k s , deer, and voles. Virtually disease-free.

Hints and Tips

T h e long and thin ones can be grown in your S F G w i t h the addition of a high-rise box (see Chapter 4 ) . For a late winter harvest, m u l c h heavily to keep the g r o u n d from freezing to protect y o u r fall-planted carrots.

Cauliflower

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Description

Even t h o u g h cauliflower is a m e m b e r of the cabbage family, it is n o t as c o l d hardy and is m o r e susceptible to the heat. Fall is the best season for p l a n t i n g because the plant will mature in the cool weather. W h i t e cauliflower is the m o s t p o p u l a r variety b u t the purple o n e is considered to be more flavorful a n d does better in the heat. T h e w h i t e variety needs 14 to 15 w e e k s to mature while the purple variety can take up to 19 weeks.

Starting

Location: Full sun, but will tolerate partial shade.

Seeds Lndoors:Wi\\ sprout in 5 to 10 days at 70°F. Plant 5 to 10 seeds in a c u p of vermiculite, or plant one seed U i n c h deep in p o t t i n g soil in individual c o m p a r t m e n t s of a seedling flat ten l

weeks before the last spring frost. For a s e c o n d crop in the fall, repeat the process anytime from June 15 to July 1. K e e p w a r m (70°F) until sprouted; m o v e to full sunlight as soon as first shoots appear.

Transplanting: Set o u t in the garden four w e e k s before the last spring frost. Place a c u t w o r m collar around the stem, water, a n d provide a shade cage. Be extra careful w h e n planting; cauliflower suffers m o r e f r o m transplanting t h a n a n y other cabbage family m e m b e r .

Seeds Outdoors: N o t satisfactory; season is too short before hot weather arrives.

Growing

Watering: Never let plants dry out.

Maintenance: W e e d weekly; m u l c h in hot weather.

Harvesting

How: C u t off the entire head at its base w i t h a sharp knife or clippers.

When: Harvest as s o o n as the head enlarges, is firm, a n d has a nice w h i t e color, before the buds separate or o p e n . Do n o t delay harvest, as the head will g r o w fast a n d pass the ideal harvest point in just a few days.

Preparing and Using

Serve florets fresh and raw w i d i any salad dressing or dip. C h o p p e d cauliflower is excellent in tossed salads. C o o k by steaming, boiling, or stir-frying. Serve h o t w i t h cheese sauce, salad dressing, or just sprinkled with grated cheese. It makes a marvelous addition to any soup or stew; cauliflower soup is superb and quite unusual. Marinate any leftovers for addition to salads or relishes.

Problems

C u t w o r m s , root maggots, occasionally cabbage w o r m s , and cabbage loopers; club root.

Hints and Tips

For white varieties that are n o t self-blanching, b e n d or break large leaves over the t o p w h e n heads start to form. T h e n tie or h o l d w i t h a rubber band to cover and protect the head from exposure to the sun, which can turn the head yellow.

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Chard, S w i s s

Description

Swiss chard is k n o w n best for its vitamin-rich leaves and its succulent stems. It's o n e of the easiest vegetables to g r o w in a n y part of the country, and can be g r o w n in the sun or shade, all spring, summer, a n d fall for a c o n t i n u o u s harvest. In m o s t climates it can even be carried over the winter.

C h a r d is available in white- or red-stemmed varieties and is also available in many rainbow colors. It can have either smooth or crinkled leaves, whichever y o u like; try both! It is also virtually pest- and disease-free.

Starting

Location: Does best in full sun, but can grow in partial shade.

Seeds Indoors: Plant 10 seeds in a cup of vermiculite, or place one seed li l

inch deep in potting soil in

individual compartments of a seedling tray 7 weeks before your last spring frost. Seeds will sprout in 5 to 10 days at 70°F. K e e p w a r m (70°F) until sprouted; m o v e to full sunlight as soon as first shoots appear.

Transplanting: Plant into the garden three weeks before the last spring frost. Water and cover with a plastic-covered cage.

Seeds Outdoors: Plant presoaked seeds V2 inch deep in each square three weeks before your last spring frost. Seeds sprout outdoors in t w o to three weeks. Water and cover w i t h a plastic-covered cage.

Growing

Watering: Weekly, or twice weekly in hot weather. Like all leaf crops, Swiss chard needs lots of water for luxurious leaf growth.

Maintenance: Weed weekly; cut off any yellow or overgrown outer leaves.

Harvesting

How: Carefully cut off each outer stem at the plant base with a sharp knife w h e n the leaves are 6 to 9 inches tall. T h e smaller inner leaves will continue to grow.

When: Start harvesting when the outer leaves are about 6 to 9 inches tall (approximately eight weeks after planting seeds), and continue harvesting outer leaves (stalk and all) every week or so. Don't let outer leaves get too large before harvesting.

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Preparing and Using

Both leaves and stems are edible; leaves are very rich in vitamins A and C, calcium, and iron. T h e stalks can be cooked and served like asparagus; the leaves are used fresh or cooked, and are similar to, but milder in taste than, spinach.

After harvest, rinse and pat dry like lettuce or spinach; refrigerate if not using immediately. C u t out the central stalk a n d use the leaves as fresh greens for salads, or boil or steam as y o u w o u l d spinach. A d d freshly c h o p p e d greens to any appropriate soup for a garden-fresh taste. C h o p the central stem or stalk into convenient-size pieces and boil or steam like asparagus or celery. Serve with your favorite salad dressing, covered w i t h bread crumbs, or grated cheese. Marinate leftover stalks overnight for a salad or appetizers.

Problems

Slugs and snails, c u t w o r m s , and leaf miners; occasionally rabbits, w o o d c h u c k s , and deer. Free of most diseases.

Hints and Tips

Harvest the outer leaves continuously. Plant a square each of all the colors and get o u t your camera for great ground-level shots.

Swiss chard will survive several frosts even if it's unprotected, allowing a fall harvest. If m u l c h e d with loose hay it can be harvested into the winter in most climates. W i t h a complete mulch cover, it will also winter over and resprout the second year for a very early spring harvest. Gradually remove the mulch in early spring and be rewarded by the first fresh greens from your garden. Plants will only produce a crop in early spring the second year; later they will go to seed, so start new plants every year.

Corn

Description

C o r n is a long-time favorite of m o s t gardeners. T h e taste of store-bought corn can't compete w i t h homegrown corn, so many plant a whole 4' x 4' S F G of just corn. M o s t of the varieties for h o m e use are planted 4 per square foot; only one crop can be grown per season because it needs a long time to mature and lots of hot weather.

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T h e r e m a n y colors and varieties of corn. T h e later season types taste better than the earlier season varieties; the "extra sweet" variety is unusually g o o d and keeps its sweetness even after picking. T h e most c o m m o n color of corn is yellow, but the best tasting are the bicolor and white varieties. As n e w varieties of c o r n are developed, c h e c k w i t h the seed c o m p a n i e s for the latest r e c o m m e n d a t i o n s on h o w far apart to plant various types of corn so they don't cross-pollinate.

Starting

Location: Full sun; locate corn where it won't shade other crops because it gets so tall.

Seeds Indoors: N o .

Transplanting: D o e s not transplant well.

Seeds Outdoors: Sprouts in 5 to 10 days o u t d o o r s . Plant y o u r presoaked seeds 1 to 2 inches deep, d e p e n d i n g on the weather, at the proper spacing. W a t e r the soil a n d cover w i t h a c h i c k e n -

wire cage to keep o u t birds. To get a c o n t i n u o u s harvest, plant a n e w c r o p every t w o w e e k s w i t h several varieties of different m a t u r a t i o n dates.

Growing

Watering: Weekly, more in the h o t weather.

Maintenance: Weed weekly; remove the chicken-wire cage w h e n the c o r n is 6 inches tall. Place a r a c c o o n - p r o o f fence a r o u n d y o u r squares w h e n the ears are starting to f o r m .

Harvesting

How: Use t w o hands to h a r v e s t — o n e to hold the stalk and the other to pull d o w n and break off the ear-—otherwise y o u m a y break the stalk. If there are no other ears left on that stalk it's best to cut it d o w n to the ground. Don't pull it out or y o u m a y disturb the roots of the surrounding stalks.

When: C h e c k the ears daily w h e n the silk first b r o w n s a n d the ears feel full and slightly b u m p y .

T h e final test of each ear before harvesting is to peel away a small strip of the h u s k to expose the kernels. T h e y should be p l u m p a n d full. To see if the ear is ready, puncture a kernel w i t h y o u r t h u m b n a i l . If m i l k y juice squirts out, it's ready; if the juice is clear, the corn is n o t quite ready to pick.

Preparing and Using

C o r n loses its sweet taste very quickly after being picked, so try to c o o k and eat it as soon as possible.

If y o u can't use it immediately, husk and refrigerate it. Up to 50 percent of the flavor is lost in the first 12 hours of storage, more if it's not refrigerated. If y o u harvest more than y o u eat, cut the kernels off the cob and freeze t h e m , add to a relish dish, or serve w a r m w i t h butter and parsley. Of course, corn is excellent added to any kind of soup or stew.

Problems

C o r n has m o r e p r o b l e m s t h a n a n y other garden crop, i n c l u d i n g corn borer, ear w o r m , birds, raccoons, a n d squirrels. T h e r e are relatively few diseases that bother the h o m e gardener.

Hints and Tips

Chapter 4 has some great tips on h o w to keep the critters out of your corn patch.

Since y o u r Mel's M i x stays so loose a n d friable, protect corn from b l o w i n g over in late s u m m e r storms w i t h the simple addition of steel fence posts and a little t o m a t o n y l o n netting. D r i v e a post

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in each corner of your 4' x 4' garden and then stretch a 4' x 4' piece of netting between the 4 posts, about 3 feet off the ground. T h e plants will easily g r o w right up through the netting, w h i c h will support them without any extra w o r k on your part.

Cucumber

Description

T h e c u c u m b e r is a garden favorite, and is very easy to g r o w in w a r m weather. A l t h o u g h b o t h vine and bush varieties are available, bush c u c u m b e r s take a lot of r o o m and don't produce like the vine types. Use the vertical m e t h o d to g r o w y o u r vine cucumbers.

T h e r e are m a n y varieties ranging in size, shape, and use, i n c l u d i n g ones for pickling or serving raw. T h e pickling varieties are picked m u c h earlier w h e n they are smaller—just the right size for the pickle j a r — b u t they can also be eaten. T h e slicing types are g r o w n larger and are m o r e c o m m o n l y used for salads or sandwiches.

Starting

Location: Full sun, although the vine types will toletate some shade.

Seeds Indoors: Sprouts in 4 to 8 days at 70°F; will sprout even faster at 80°F. Plant one seed in individual paper cups filled w i t h Mel's M i x . P u n c h holes in the b o t t o m for drainage. K e e p w a r m (at least 70°F) until sprouted; m o v e to full sunlight as soon as the first shoots appear.

Transplanting: Plant the cup and all in the ground at the proper plant spacing. If the cup is waxed cardboard or a heavy paper, tear away the b o t t o m carefully; avoid disturbing the roots. Water and cover with a shade cage.

Seeds Outdoors: Sprouts in five to ten days; place presoaked seeds at proper spacing, water, and keep soil moist until seeds sprout.

Growing

Watering: Weekly; twice weekly in hot weather. Never let the soil dry out. Avoid wetting the leaves, as this spreads any fungus disease that m a y be present. C u c u m b e r s have the highest water content of any vegetable, so plenty of moisture is required for proper growth.

Maintenance: Weed weekly; keep vines on the trellis; watch out for beetles; mulch in hot weather.

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Harvesting

How: C u t (don't pull) the stem connecting the fruit to the vine.

When: Harvest continually! Never allow any cucumbers to become yellow or overly large, or the plant will stop producing. Keep picking even if y o u have to toss some on the compost pile because y o u can't use them. Don't try the old practice of eating the large cukes and leaving the smaller ones on the vine, because in only o n e or t w o days the little ones will be big. Instead, c o m p o s t the very large cucumbers and eat the smaller ones.

Preparing and Using

Wash and scrub with a vegetable brush. Serve long, slender burpless varieties with the skins left on.

Peel the fatter varieties before slicing, c u b i n g , or cutting into l o n g sticks. Serve fresh, sliced on sandwiches w i t h onions and mayonnaise, or marinate for relish. M a n y gardeners like c u c u m b e r s simply soaked in vinegar overnight and served with lots of pepper. T h e y also go well in any salad or arranged around a spoonful of cottage cheese.

Problems

C u c u m b e r beetles; mildew, wilt, and mosaic.

Hints and Tips

Don't let the fruit get too large; pick early and often. Try some of the long, thin varieties for a fun crop.

Eggplant

Description

Eggplant is a n i c e - l o o k i n g plant w i t h fruit that c o m e s in a w i d e variety of colors and shapes; most types yield a rather large, egg-shaped fruit that is black to purple. However, s o m e of the newer varieties are yellow, brown, or white and are smaller and rounder. Eggplant yields a very large harvest and are used in m a n y different styles of c o o k i n g . T h e y are easily g r o w n , b u t take a l o n g time to m a t u r e — s o y o u need to start plants indoors in early spring or b u y transplants locally.

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Starting

Location: Full sun and lots of heat; pick your sunniest spot for eggplant.

Seeds Indoors: Sprouts in 12 days at 70°F, but only requires 6 days at 85°F; won't sprout below 65°F.

Sprinkle 5 to 10 seeds lA i n c h deep in a c u p filled w i t h vermiculite 7 w e e k s before y o u r last l

spring frost. K e e p w a r m (at least 70°F) until sprouted; m o v e to full sunlight as soon as first shoots appear; then p o t up in seedling trays as s o o n as plants are large e n o u g h (usually one to three weeks). K e e p a careful w a t c h over the plants, especially after transplanting t h e m into seedling trays, because any pause or stoppage of the g r o w t h will affect the ultimate bearing capacity of the plant.

Transplanting: Plant into the garden t w o weeks after the last spring frost; disturb the roots as little as possible. W a t e r and cover w i t h a shade cage. Since eggplant is so vulnerable to c o l d weather, cover the wire cage w i t h a clear plastic cover as well as a sun shade to provide a greenhouse atmosphere if it is at all chilly. In a few days the sun shade can be removed.

Seeds Outdoors: N o t satisfactory, as the season is too short before h o t weather arrives.

Growing

Watering: Eggplant needs constant moisture, especially w h e n fruits are forming and enlarging.

Maintenance: W e e d weekly; add a thick m u l c h w h e n h o t weather sets in. Provide a wide mesh, open-wire cage support w h e n the eggplant is half grown; the plants will g r o w right through it, and will be supported w i t h o u t staking.

Harvesting

How: Mways cut the fruit f r o m the b u s h w i t h clippers; w a t c h o u t for sharp spines on the stems and fruits.

When: Edible almost anytime after the fruit turns dark and glossy (when it's about 6 inches), don't let them get too large. If they turn a dull color they are overripe and the seeds will be large and hard.

Preparing and Using

Peel and slice or dice, then stew, fry, stir-fry, or bake; add to casseroles, or bread and fry by itself.

Eggplant mixes especially well w i t h tomatoes and onions. If you're not g o i n g to use the eggplant right away, don't refrigerate it; instead, store it on the kitchen counter and enjoy its g o o d looks! Handle carefully or fruit will bruise.

Problems

C u t w o r m s and flea beetles; verticillium wilt.

Hints and Tips

M a n y cooks use eggplant as a substitute for meat in various dishes. S h o w the pretty flowers to your children and then have t h e m w a t c h the fruit form and g r o w bigger every day.

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Lettuce

Description

Lettuce is so easy to grow, very gratifying, and extremely suited for S F G — i t grows quickly, prolifically and looks great. W h i l e it does grow best in the cool seasons and withstands cold weather, it tolerates some heat and can be grown nearly year-round.

T h e r e are several types of lettuce: the solid head usually found in grocery stores; the loose head, or Bibb, a faster growing, and smaller variety of head lettuce; Romaine or cos, w h i c h is a loose head with a rougher texture than the leaf types. T h e Romaine leaf is comprised of many tight, upright leaves and is probably the best pick for h o m e g a r d e n e r s — b u t there are also so m a n y great types of leaf and B i b b lettuces that every gardener should try to grow at least four varieties at all times! T h e y do best as a spring or fall crop, but w i t h care and protection, they can be grown in s u m m e r and even in winter in m a n y parts of the country. L o o k for the types that are suitable for s u m m e r or winter seasons.

Starting

Location: Full sun to partial shade; shade is welcomed in the hot summer. As with all leafy vegetables, the stronger the light, the higher the vitamin C content will be.

Seeds Indoors: Sprouts in 2 to 3 days at 70°F. Start 5 to 10 seeds of several different varieties in cups filled w i t h vermiculite 7 weeks before y o u r last spring frost date. K e e p w a r m (70°F) until sprouted; m o v e to full sunlight as soon as first shoots appear; then p o t up in seedling trays as soon as plants are large e n o u g h (usually o n e to three weeks).

Transplanting: Move plants into the garden anytime until they are half grown. Plant a new square or rwo of lettuce every other w e e k until early summer. T h e h o t weather, l o n g days, w a r m nights, and dry soil of s u m m e r cause lettuce to bolt to seed. Plant special varieties sold as heat- or bolt-resistant. After s u m m e r is over y o u can start planting the same varieties y o u did in the spring.

Seeds Outdoors: Sprouts in 5 to 10 days. Seeds sprout quickly outdoors and grow fairly rapidly; however, this method is time-saving but space-consuming. If space is your concern, start all seeds indoors or off to the side of the garden and move plants into the garden w h e n they're half grown.

Transplants seem to bolt to seed more easily than direct-seeded plants, so plant the s u m m e r crop directly in the garden. Plant one or t w o seeds in each hole; water daily until they sprout.

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Growing

Watering: Try not to w e t the leaves; y o u m a y spread fungal diseases. Don't water at night; m o r n i n g is the best followed by n o o n or late afternoon.

Maintenance: W e e d weekly; don't let any weeds grow. Lettuce has such a shallow root system it can't compete w i t h weeds. Provide shade covers for plants in summer.

Harvesting

How: You can cut individual outer leaves or the entire plant. If you're g o i n g to c u t outer leaves y o u can start w h e n the plant is half g r o w n . T h i s makes a surprisingly large harvest w h e n c o m b i n e d with a few leaves of beet, spinach, and Swiss chard. If y o u take just one leaf from each plant, y o u can still harvest a lot and hardly notice w h a t has been harvested.

When: Harvest leaf varieties at seven weeks, a n d B i b b varieties at nine weeks, or harvest outer leaves from either o n e w h e n the plant is half g r o w n . Y o u can also c u t the entire plant at any time; it doesn't have to g r o w to full size to be edible. If y o u wait until all y o u r plants reach full size y o u will have to harvest almost all of t h e m at once or they will go to seed.

Preparing and Using

Rinse lettuce u n d e r cool water, spin or pat dry, a n d store in the refrigerator in a plastic b a g until you're ready to use it. Lettuce will stay fresh a n d crisp for several days, a l t h o u g h it's even better to harvest almost daily for m a x i m u m nutritional value. Lettuce contains vitamins A a n d B, calcium, and iron (especially the dark green outer leaves).

Problems

Rabbits, deer, w o o d c h u c k s , slugs, cutworms, sow bugs, and wire w o r m s . T h e r e are not m a n y diseases to be concerned about unless the lettuce is quite w e t at ground level.

Hints and Tips

G r o w as many different colors and textures as possible to have unusual salads. Pick outer leaves daily to fill your salad b o w l . . . in fact, take your salad bowl right out to the garden!

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Melon (Cantaloupe, Muskmelon, Watermelon)

AT A GLANCE

Seed to Harvest/Flower: 12 weeks

S e e d s Storage: 5 to 6 years

Indoor Seed Starting: 2 weeks

before transplanting

Earliest O u t d o o r Planting: 2 weeks

after last spring frost

Additional Plantings: no

Description

Melons need about 3 months of h o t weather to grow, but are a fun and exciting c r o p — e v e n though the yield isn't large, w h e n the harvest finally c o m e s , it all seems very w o r t h w h i l e . T h e y should be g r o w n on vertical frames, as they will mature sooner and save space. Of course, one of the biggest rewards is seeing m e l o n s h a n g i n g 4 to 5 feet off the g r o u n d on y o u r vertical f r a m e — t h a t ' s n o t s o m e t h i n g you're used to seeing in y o u r old single-row gardens!

Starting

Location: Full sun; grow on a vertical frame.

Seeds Indoors: Sprouts in 5 to 10 days at 70°F; the hotter the better, even up to 90°F for sprouting.

Plant single seeds in individual paper cups. Plants do not transplant well, so don't start them until two weeks before planting outside.

Transplanting: Plant outdoors two weeks after the last frost date. Sink the entire cup in the ground after tearing off the b o t t o m .

Seeds Outdoors: Won't sprout in soil below 65°F; takes 5 days in 70°F soil. Plant a presoaked seed in each square foot, one week after last frost. C o v e r with a plastic-covered cage. R e m o v e weakest one later.

Crowing

Watering: M u l c h heavily in hot weather. Reduce water when melons are almost ripe to develop their sweetness. Keep the leaves dry to avoid fungal diseases and mildew.

Maintenance: Weed weekly; support the half-grown melons in slings; pinch out all new, small melons near the end of the growing season so that all the plant's strength goes into ripening the larger melons that are already set.

Harvesting

How:Tw\st the melon with one hand while holding the stem with the other. If it resists parting, the melon is not ripe.

When: Harvest whenever it has a strong melon scent, and the netting pattern on the rind (if it's a cantaloupe) becomes very prominent. T h e stem will slip off easily w h e n the melon is rotated. If each melon is held in a sling it won't roll around and accidentally twist itself off w h e n it's ripe.

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Preparing and Using

Some people like melons w a r m , some, chilled. C u t muskmelons or cantaloupes in half, scoop out the seeds, and cut into wedges, or serve an entire half filled with ice cream, blueberries, or custard. T h e flesh of all melons can also be scooped out using a melon-baller or cut into cubes and mixed with or added to a fresh fruit salad. They're excellent for breakfast or served as a dinner dessert.

Problems

C u t w o r m s ; mildew and wilt disease.

Hints and Tips

Be the first on y o u r b l o c k to g r o w melons! T h e r e are so m a n y varieties to choose f r o m — s t a r t w i t h the smaller, m o r e c o m m o n varieties. M e l o n s get very heavy, so m a k e sure y o u r vertical frame is strong and well-supported.

Watermelon: All data and advice above is about the same for this giant o f a summer crop. O n e big caution: make darn sure your vertical frame is strong.'lt w o u l d also be prudent to start by growing the smaller varieties; they produce well, are very sweet, and w o u l d be a g o o d trial for your experiment, as they grow well vertically.

Pumpkin: T h e same scenario will apply to g r o w i n g p u m p k i n s on y o u r vertical frame. Yes, p u m p k i n s ! Be prepared to attract a c r o w d , a n d get some g o o d pictures!

Okra

Description

O k r a is a tall, warm-season, annual vegetable. It is a pretty plant w i t h large hibiscus-like yellow flowers, heart-shaped leaves, a n d a thick w o o d y stem. T h e edible part is a long, ribbed, fuzzy p o d that can be yellow, red, or green. O n c e the flowers have b l o o m e d , the pods g r o w very quickly, so check the plant daily for y o u n g pods as these have the best flavor a n d texture. O k r a loves hot weather, and m a y n o t get a l o n g e n o u g h period of heat to g r o w well in areas w i t h a short growing season, but try it anyway as it does grow very quickly during the hottest days of summer. You might also look for smaller, short-season varieties.

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Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: 6 to 8 w e e k s before the last spring frost. S o a k seeds overnight a n d plant at a d e p t h of 1 inch.

Transplanting: Set seedlings o u t after the soil has w a r m e d , 7 to 10 days after the last frost.

Seeds Outdoors: Soak seeds overnight, then plant 1 inch deep, 2 weeks after the last frost, and at least 3 m o n t h s before the first fall frost.

Growing

Watering: K e e p soil fairly moist; m u l c h in very h o t weather.

Maintenance: R e m o v e old, hard p o d s f r o m the plant unless y o u are saving t h e m for seed or dried arrangements.

Harvesting

How: C u t pods from plants w i t h a pruner or knife. Breaking or pulling the pods can damage the plant.

When: Harvest pods daily w h e n they are y o u n g , no more than 4 inches long. O l d e r pods can be too tough to eat.

Preparing and Using

O k r a can be stored in the refrigerator in a paper b a g or w r a p p e d in a paper towel in a perforated plastic bag for 2 to 3 days; it m a y be frozen for up to 12 months after blanching w h o l e for 2 minutes.

C o o k e d okra can be stored in the refrigerator for 3 to 4 days. O k r a can be served raw, marinated in salads, or c o o k e d on its o w n , a n d goes well w i t h tomatoes, o n i o n s , corn, peppers, a n d eggplant.

W h o l e , fresh okra pods also m a k e excellent pickles. A n d don't forget to m a k e s o m e g u m b o !

Problems

A p h i d s and cabbage w o r m s , verticillium or fusarium wilt.

Hints and Tips

T r y something different: barbeque some y o u n g pods at your next party.

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Onion

Description

O n i o n s are easy to grow; they don't take m u c h care but are a little unsightly near the end w h e n the tops turn b r o w n a n d fall o v e r — b u t that just means they are nearing harvest time. T r i m off the b r o w n , dead tops to keep the garden l o o k i n g g o o d .

O n i o n s can be planted f r o m sets, plants, or seeds; the b u l b reaches harvest s o m e t i m e in the middle of the summer. T h e size of the bulb is determined by the length of the growing season before the summer solstice (June 2 1 ) . If y o u have a short growing season, don't bother w i t h seeds—get the plants or sets (which l o o k like miniature onions). If y o u live in a m i l d e t climate y o u could try the seed m e t h o d .

There are m a n y types of onions, from large, fat ones, to small, golf-ball-sized varieties. Some need to be used soon after harvest, while others are fine are for storing. C h e c k the seed catalog descriptions and pick your favorites.

Starting

Location: Onions like a sunny spot, but will tolerate some shade.

Seeds Indoors: Sprouts in 5 days at 70°F. Sprinkle about 20 seeds o f each variety desired into cups filled w i t h vermiculite 8 to 12 weeks before y o u r last spring frost. K e e p w a r m (70°F) until sprouted; m o v e to full sunlight as soon as first shoots appear; then p o t up in seedling trays as soon as plants are large e n o u g h (usually one to three weeks).

Transplanting: Four weeks before the last spring frost, shake most of the vermiculite from your young plants and gather t h e m together in small bunches. W i t h scissors, cut off b o t h the tops and the roots so the plant is balanced w i t h a b o u t 2 inches of each. D r i l l a hole at each space in y o u r square w i t h a pencil, a n d slip in a plant, firm the soil, a n d water.

Seeds Outdoors: If the season is not long enough for seeds, use sets. Push the tiny onion sets into the ground, pointed side up at the proper spacing, with their tops just showing above the soil. Water, and that's all there is to it.

Growing

Watering: Withhold water when the tops start to fall over.

Maintenance: Weed weekly; when bulbs start expanding use your finger to remove some of the soil

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around each bulb and partially uncover it. T h i s makes it easier for the bulb to expand. It will not hurt if y o u can actually see the top of every bulb; in fact, it's k i n d of exciting to see t h e m getting bigger and bigger every week!

Harvesting

How: Pull the onions out of the ground and place on chicken wire or a w i n d o w screen laid out in the s u n for several days. T h e tops, roots, a n d outer skin of each o n i o n will then d r y thoroughly.

Brush t h e m off and clean off any loose skins, dried tops, or roots by rubbing t h e m between your p a l m s , then store for later use. A n y o n i o n s w i t h green or thick tops s h o u l d n o t be stored b u t used immediately.

When: A b o u t the middle of the s u m m e r you'll see your onion tops turning b r o w n and falling over.

W h e n the majority have fallen, bend over the remaining ones w i t h your hand. In a short while, the tops will dry up while the bulbs attain their m a x i m u m size.

Preparing and Using

You'll find h o m e g r o w n onions m u c h milder and sweeter than store-bought ones. T h i s makes t h e m more useful, especially for those folks w h o must be careful of eating too m a n y onions. For a real treat, try a n o n i o n s a n d w i c h — t h i n slices o f o n i o n w i t h mayonnaise and lots o f pepper o n y o u r favorite bread. Or add fresh, crisp c u c u m b e r slices to the sandwich for a delightful combination. H a n g dried onions in a m e s h bag, or braid tops together and h a n g in a cool, dry area for storage all winter.

Problems

O n i o n fly maggot. Resistant to most diseases.

Hints and Tips

Scallions and green-bunching onions are very easy to g r o w using y o u r high-rise boxes, w h i c h will give y o u twice the white stalk.

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Parsley

AT A GLANCE

Botanical Information S e e d t o Harvest/Flower: 14 weeks Family: Carrot S e e d s Storage: 2 to 3 years

Height: 6 to 12 inches W e e k s to Maturity: 7 weeks

Spacing: 4 per square Indoor S e e d Starting: 12 weeks

before last spring frost

G r o w i n g S e a s o n Earliest O u t d o o r Planting: 5 weeks Spring: yes before last spring frost

S u m m e r : yes

Fall: yes

Winter: y e s *

Description

Parsley is a w o n d e r f u l herb that looks great in the garden, yields a big c o n t i n u o u s harvest, is extremely nutritious, a n d doesn't need a great deal of care! Pests don't seem to bother it, and it's disease-resistant too. All in all, parsley is a very easy addition to your S F G . T h e r e are m a n y varieties, but basically t w o kinds: flat-leaved and curly. It's said the flat-leaf varieties taste better, but the curly-leaf types are better looking, and more c o m m o n l y grown.

Starting

Location: Full sun to partial shade.

Seeds Indoors: Sprouts in 10 to 15 days at 70°F. Seeds are very slow to germinate, and should be soaked in l u k e w a r m water for 24 hours before planting. Sprinkle ten presoaked seeds in a cup filled with vermiculite 12 weeks before last spring frost. Keep w a r m (70°F) until sprouted; move to full sunlight as soon as first shoots appear; then pot up in seedling trays as soon as plants are large enough (usually one to three weeks).

Transplanting: M o v e outdoors five weeks before the last spring frost or anytime plants are large e n o u g h ; plant t h e m at the same d e p t h they grew in the pot.

Seeds Outdoors: Better to start indoors because seeds are slow and difficult to germinate.

Crowing

Watering: Never let parsley dry out completely because it becomes tough and bitter and may bolt to seed in the first year.

Maintenance: W e e d weekly. M u l c h heavily for continual harvest in winter, and for early-spring g r o w i n g the f o l l o w i n g year.

Harvesting

How: C u t outer leaves as needed; for a large harvest, cut off the entire plant slightly above tiny middle shoots. Either way, the plant will c o n t i n u e to g r o w w i t h no h a r m .

When: Harvest as soon as the plant gets 3 to 4 inches tall and anytime thereafter.

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Preparing and Using

Parsley is g o o d in soups, casseroles, stews, and with fish or any kind of meat; it's excellent over boiled vegetables, particularly potatoes. Parsley is loaded with vitamins A and C. C u t up leaves w i t h scissors and sprinkle on food for that decorative gourmet chef look!

Problems

Relatively free from pests and diseases.

Hints and Tips

Pot up a plant or t w o in the fall for a kitchen windowsill gatden, or even plan ahead a n d p o t up several for holiday, birthday, or C h r i s t m a s gifts.

Pea, Sugar Snap

Description

W h o doesn't like the taste of fresh peas? Yet until the introduction of sugar snap peas, it was hard to grow e n o u g h for m u c h more than a few m e a l s — p e a s used to take time, space, and effort to harvest, not to mention the shelling. Even w h e n you're all finished, it doesn't seem to add up to m u c h !

T h e sugar snap peas, or edible p o d varieties, have c h a n g e d all of that. T h e y are extremely high yielding, and y o u can eat the entire pod. T h e y have about five times the harvest of conventional peas.

Sugar snap peas are juicy, sweet, and crisp, and are absolutely wonderful. T h e y can be eaten raw or cooked. T h e y are a must in my garden, and I r e c o m m e n d them as the only pea w o r t h growing. Very few of the pea pods even make it to the kitchen now, because they are such a treat to eat right in the g a r d e n — y o u m i g h t need to m a k e a family rule: pick and eat all y o u w a n t b u t leave e n o u g h for dinner! O n c e the kids are told they can eat right from the garden, they'll b e c o m e m u c h m o r e interested in eating vegetables!

Starting

Location: Full sun in spring; shaded toward summer if possible.

Seeds Indoors: N o .

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Transplanting: D o e s not transplant well.

Seeds Outdoors: Sprouts in 10 to 15 days o u t d o o r s . M i x presoaked seeds w i t h l e g u m e inoculant p o w d e r for an added boost, then plant 1 i n c h deep a b o u t 5 w e e k s before the last spring frost.

Water and cover w i t h a plastic-covered tunnel.

Growing

Watering: Never let the peas dry out.

Maintenance: W e e d weekly; keep water off the vines. Keep the vines trained up the vertical frame; m u l c h as weather gets w a r m .

Harvesting

How: Carefully (with t w o hands) pick or cut pods off their stems.

When: T h e beauty of these peas is that y o u can eat t h e m at any stage of growth. They're just as tasty (raw or cooked) w h e t h e r their p o d s are fully mature a n d b u l g i n g w i t h peas, or still thin a n d barely starting to show the peas inside. M u n c h on a few every time you're in the g a r d e n — w h a t a treat!

Preparing and Using

Just wash and they are ready to eat or cook. Try to use t h e m as fresh as possible; store w h a t y o u can't use right away in refrigerator. Sugar snaps are rich in vitamins A, B i , and C, and contain phosphorus and iron. As the p o d s get nearly full size, s o m e develop a string a l o n g each edge, b u t it's easy to remove: just snap off the s t e m e n d a n d pull d o w n , a n d b o t h strings will easily peel off. T h e p o d is still very crisp a n d tasty even w h e n full size.

If the pods start to lose their nice pea-green color and turn b r o w n on the vine, they are overripe.

Pick t h e m i m m e d i a t e l y a n d add t h e m to the c o m p o s t pile, because if y o u don't harvest t h e m they will cause the vine to stop p r o d u c i n g n e w peas.

T h e versatility of these tasty peas stretches the i m a g i n a t i o n . T r y t h e m raw in salads, w i t h a dip, plain, or m i x e d w i t h other fresh vegetables in vinegar or sour cream dressing . . . or c o o k t h e m by boiling, steaming, or stir-frying.

Problems

No pests to speak of (except those people in the family that eat too m a n y ) , but sometimes prone to powdery mildew, especially during w a r m weather w h e n the leaves get wet.

Hints and Tips

Let the kids g r o w t h e m and you'll have a vegetarian in the making.

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Pepper

Description

M o s t gardeners love to g r o w peppers: they're easy to grow, pest- and disease-free, and produce a lot for the space allotted. You can buy transplanrs locally, or start seeds yourself. T h e y look great in the garden, and s o m e people g r o w several types for their decorative aspect. If all you've g r o w n are the green bell peppers, give the sweet yellow banana varieties a try. Peppers c o m e in several different shapes, from the bell shape to the skinny, curved, hot chili peppers. T h e y range in color from green, red, orange and yellow. Select the type y o u want for cooking and go for it!

Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: Sprouts in 10 to 15 days at 70°F. Sprinkle 5 to 10 seeds in a cup o f vermiculite approximately 7 weeks before the last spring frost, cover with 'A inch more vermiculite. Keep w a r m (70°F) until sprouted; move to full sunlight as soon as first shoots appear; then pot up in seedling trays as soon as plants are large enough (usually one to three weeks).

Transplanting: Peppers need warm soil so don't transplant until two weeks after the last spring frost.

Seeds Outdoors: T h e season is too short to start outdoors.

Growing

Watering: Don't wet the leaves; this causes fungal and wilt infections.

Maintenance: Weed weekly; mulch in hot weather; cover half-grown plants with an open-mesh wire cage to support plants without staking. Stems and branches of pepper plants are brittle and break easily, so w o r k carefully a m o n g them w h e n harvesting.

Harvesting

How: Carefully cut the fruit from the bush (don't pull or you'll accidentally break other branches).

Leave about 1 inch of stem on each pepper for a longer storage life.

When: Harvest at almost any stage of development! Basically, if you want green peppers pick them as soon as they are big e n o u g h for your use. You can leave them on the vine and they will turn red or yellow after they b e c o m e full grown. Peppers can still be eaten w h e n red or yellow; in fact,

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many people prefer them, as their taste is sweeter and not as spicy w h e n they lose their green color. Of course, the hot chili peppers should turn color before y o u use them.

Preparing and Using

Use peppers raw or cooked. Peppers are excellent as a salad or casserole garnish. C u t them into strips, cubes, or thin slices as you would a tomato. Their shape is very attractive as a garnish. Peppers stuffed with a meat, rice, or vegetable mixture and then baked makes a great summer supper. Peppers are high in vitamins A and C.

Problems

Cutworms and flea beetles. No diseases to speak of except an occasional wilt or fungus problem.

Hints and Tips

If you like the hot pepper taste, just look through any seed catalog and pick your poison. Let each child or grandchild pick and grow a different color pepper plant.

Grow enough to have some to grill on the barbecue.

Potato

Description

Potatoes need no introduction; we've all eaten t h e m at some point, in a recipe, baked, or out of a bag of chips or container of French fries. B u t growing your o w n potatoes is the best w a y to sample the large variety of potato shapes, sizes and colors. Harvest t h e m early for small, tasty nuggets; or dig t h e m later for large tubers to store over the winter. A n d the p o t a t o plant itself is b u s h y and pretty, d o i n g d o u b l e d u t y as an o r n a m e n t a l and an edible. T h e white flowers are the indicator that the small, n e w potatoes are ready to harvest o u t of the g r o u n d a n d o n t o the table.

Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: N o .

Planting: Don't plant seeds; cut up potatoes in small pieces and let the eyes sprout, then plant those.

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Outdoors: Plant in the spring w h e n the soil has reached 45°F. U s e o n l y certified disease-free seed potatoes. Sprout potatoes a w e e k before planting time by placing t h e m in a tray where they will receive light (not sun) and temperatures of about 65°F. A day or t w o before planting, cut potatoes into "seed pieces" about I V 2 " square w i t h at least one "sprouted eye" per section. Remove about 5 inches of your soil in that square foot, place four seed pieces at the proper spacing w i t h eyes up, and just barely cover them. W h e n sprouts appear, add enough Mel's M i x to again cover the green leafy sprouts. Keep d o i n g this until the hole is filled back to the top. For an extra harvest, use the high-rise m e t h o d described in C h a p t e r 4. C o v e r the plants every w e e k or so w i t h m o r e Mel's M i x , until the plants begin to flower. M a k e certain a n y n e w potatoes that are f o r m i n g are well covered, as uncovered spuds will turn green.

Growing

Watering: Increase watering during flowering.

Maintenance: Protect from frost.

Harvesting

How: G e n t l y loosen the soil around early potatoes and remove the largest tubers, leaving the smaller ones to c o n t i n u e g r o w i n g . For later potatoes, gently dig outside the plant a n d remove the potatoes as y o u find them. Take care not to stab or cut the potatoes as y o u dig. If the weather is dry, leave the potatoes on top of the soil for 2 to 3 days to dry. If the weather is wet, bring the potatoes into a garage or basement to dry. T h i s will toughen the skin for storage. Store potatoes in a cool (40°F.), dark location for 3 to 6 months. Do not store potatoes near apples, w h i c h give off a chemical that will damage the potatoes.

When: Small early potatoes can be harvested as needed in early s u m m e r after the plants finish flowering. Later potatoes can be left in the soil until 2 to 3 weeks after the foliage has died back in fall, and can be lifted all at once for storing.

Preparing and Using

Potatoes can be boiled, fried, steamed, grilled, or baked. All potatoes should be c o o k e d or placed in water immediately after peeling to prevent discoloration. To peel or not to peel is generally a result of the preparation m e t h o d or personal preference. T h e exception is thin-skinned n e w potatoes, w h i c h should not be peeled.

C h o o s e the type of p o t a t o to use in a recipe based on its qualities. N e w potatoes are moist a n d w a x y and are best for steaming, boiling, and in salads. O b l o n g mature white potatoes are rather dry and starchy. T h e y are the m o s t popular potato to use for French-fries a n d they are great for baking a n d m a s h i n g . R o u n d red potatoes have a rather w a x y texture, m a k i n g t h e m ideal for b o i l i n g and m a s h i n g . R o u n d w h i t e potatoes are t h i n - s k i n n e d a n d h o l d their shape in salads as well as boiling a n d roasting. Yellow-fleshed potatoes are g o o d for steaming, roasting, a n d m a s h i n g .

Potatoes do not freeze, dry, or can well.

Problems

Flea beetles, leaf hoppers, and slugs; blight, scab, and root k n o t nematode. Tubers exposed to sunlight while growing will turn green and are mildly toxic.

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Hints and Tips

Let the plant continue to grow for a late harvest of bigger potatoes. T h e kids will love planting the blue or purple potato variety.

Radish

Description

Radishes are a great crop for all gardeners—from experts to beginners. W h o can pass up a vegetable that matures in only three weeks? Plus, they are zesty and tasty in any dish.

Radishes c o m e in a multitude of shapes from small and round to long carrot shapes. T h e y vary in color from red, pink, white, and even some black varieties. Radishes planted in the spring are normally red or white colored, and will mature in 3 to 4 weeks. Fall radishes take 6 to 8 weeks and store very well; they're referred to as winter radishes.

It's easy to plant too m a n y radishes. T h e y don't like being crowded, so the S F G method is very suitable for this vegetable. D e c i d e h o w m a n y y o u can use each week and then plant no more than double that n u m b e r every other week for a continuous, but controlled, harvest.

Starting

Location: Full sun to partial shade.

Seeds Indoors: N o .

Transplanting: Does not transplant well.

Seeds Outdoors: Sprouts in five to ten days outdoors depending on temperature. Plant a square foot every other w e e k for a staggered but c o n t i n u o u s harvest. Plant li inch deep in spring, 1 inch x

deep in summer. If y o u really like radishes a lot, plant some every week of the growing year, even through the hot weather. T h e plants will still do fairly well then if y o u give them some shade, lots of water, and a thick m u l c h . W i n t e r or l o n g - k e e p i n g varieties need t w o m o n t h s to mature, so start t h e m at least that l o n g before the first fall frost.

Growing

Watering: Don't let radishes stop growing or dry out; lack o f water causes hot-tasting and pithy radishes.

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Maintenance: W e e d weekly; keep covered with screen-covered cage if root maggots are a problem; m u l c h in h o t weather.

Harvesting

How: Pull up the entire plant a n d trim off the top. Refrigerate edible portions if they're n o t used immediately.

When: Harvest as soon as they are marble size up to Ping-Pong ball size; the smaller y o u pull them, the sweeter they taste. T h e l o n g fall varieties can be left in the g r o u n d until frost, then either m u l c h e d to keep the ground from freezing, or pulled and stored in d a m p peat moss or sand after the tops are removed.

Preparing and Using

Slice, dice, or cut into fancy shapes for eating o u t of h a n d or to add to salads, and for garnishes. If y o u have too m a n y all at once, twist or cut off the tops and store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator.

Radishes will keep for up to a w e e k before getting soft.

Problems

N o n e to speak of, except possibly root maggots.

Hints and Tips

Teaching a child to garden? T h i s is the perfect first crop; let each child pick a color, and take it from there.

Spinach

Description

Spinach is somewhat difficult to grow, but a very popular plant. It usually does well if it stays cool in the spring. A rapid grower, it can be grown in a fairly small space and looks great in the garden. It will quickly bolt to seed in the s u m m e r heat, but grows very well in the early spring and then again in the fall. Spinach is very cold hardy and in m a n y areas of the country it will winter over; in warmer climates, it can be grown all winter.

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There are t w o types of s p i n a c h — t h e smooth-leaved kind and a crinkly-leaved type called Savoy, which is more popular and more attractive. Neither will endure heat and should be grown in cool weather. Some varieties are more resistant to frost and are particularly adaptable for growing in the fall, and possibly into the winter season. C h e c k your seed catalog for appropriate varieties.

Starting

Location: A n y location is suitable, full sun to partial shade.

Seeds Indoors: N o .

Transplanting: D o e s not transplant well.

Seeds Outdoors: Sprouts outdoors in one to two weeks. Plant seeds h inch deep, water, and cover

l

with a plastic-covered cage. Plants can withstand any temperature between 25°F and 75°F, so judge your spring and fall planting accordingly.

Growing

Watering: Being a leaf crop, spinach needs constant moist soil.

Maintenance: W e e d weekly; m u l c h in w a r m weather. Don't w o r k in the spinach square if the leaves are very w e t — t h e y are brittle and break easily.

Harvesting

How: C u t outer leaves as needed; small inner leaves will continue to g r o w rapidly.

When: Harvest as soon as the plants l o o k like they won't miss an outer leaf or two. Keep picking and the plant will keep g r o w i n g right up until h o t weather. If it's a spring crop a n d y o u t h i n k the plants are going to bolt soon, cut off the entire plant for a little extra harvest.

Preparing and Using

Wash carefully; soil tends to cling to the undersides, especially on the ones w i t h crinkled leaves. Spin or pat dry and store in refrigerator just like lettuce. Better yet, eat spinach right away. Serve fresh in salads, c o o k slighdy for a wilted spinach salad, or c o o k by steaming lightly. Spinach goes great with any meal, especially w h e n garnished with a chopped, hard-boiled egg. It's high in vitamins A, B i , and C, and is a valuable source of iron.

Problems

Leaf miners and aphids. No diseases to speak of.

Hints and Tips

If y o u w a n t to g r o w spinach in the w a r m e r weather, search the seed catalogs for bolt-resistant varieties and provide shade, a heavy m u l c h , a n d lots of water in the w a r m e r weather.

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Strawberry

Description

P i c k i n g strawberries on a clear June day is a treat for y o u n g , old, a n d everyone in b e t w e e n — o n l y a b o u t half the harvest actually makes it into the basket! Since strawberries are so popular, most families like to plant an entire 4' x 4' in strawberries—it's easy to protect and harvest. Y o u might also like to build a pyramid box and plant it in all strawberries.

G r o w i n g your o w n strawberries is fun and rewarding. Strawberry plants bear fruit for at least 3 or 4 years, then yields will decrease and eventually the plant will die. Each plant sends out runners that produce a n e w plant, which can be used as the next generation of strawberries in the garden. However, I r e c o m m e n d y o u not let t h e m root, as they take so m u c h energy from the parent plant. I'll explain a better w a y for your S F G .

T h e r e are three main types of strawberries: June-bearing, w h i c h sets fruit in June; ever-bearing, w h i c h will set fruit twice d u r i n g the g r o w i n g season; and day-neutral, w h i c h is not affected by the length of the day as the others are. A n d don't overlook the Alpine strawberry, w h i c h will reward y o u with tiny but incredibly tasty fruit over a l o n g period!

Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: N o .

Transplanting: Early spring, as soon as the soil is not frozen. Be sure soil is not wet.

Outdoors: Most gardeners buy strawberry plants in packets of a dozen or so. Soak first, then trim off the roots slightly, and plant 4 per square foot. Leave a saucer-shaped depression a r o u n d each plant for effective watering. K e e p the soil moist; increase water w h e n strawberries are fruiting.

Growing

Watering: Weekly; more during dry periods.

Maintenance: C u t off all the runners as soon as you see them each week; that way all the energy will stay in the parent plant for an increased harvest each year. After 3 or 4 years w h e n the harvest starts to d i m i n i s h , it is best to pull o u t those plants and replant, perhaps in a different square w i t h b r a n d - n e w certified disease-free plants from the nursery. It's true that those runners will p r o d u c e b a b y plants and it seems a waste n o t to use them; some people like to let t h e m

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grow. However, the problem comes from too m a n y runners producing too m a n y baby plants (because the gardener forgets to cut them off); they take all the energy from the parent, reducing the harvest.

Harvesting

How: Pick the fruit leaving a short piece of stem attached; use scissors for a clean cut.

When: Harvest as fruit ripens, for 2 to 3 weeks.

Preparing and Using

Use strawberries as soon as possible after picking; p o p a few right in your m o u t h . T h e y can be used in fruit salads, on cakes, and in pies. Freeze whole strawberries for use in s m o o t h i e s — t h e y will be soft when they defrost, but still flavorful.

Problems

Birds and slugs; verticillium wilt. People w h o put too many in their m o u t h and too few in the basket.

Hints and Tips

Cover plants with bird netting to preserve harvest.

Summer Squash

Description

Summer squash needs a lot of r o o m to grow, but is unbelievably prolific. It is easy and fast to grow, but needs hot weather to do well. T h e r e are m a n y colors and s h a p e s — r o u n d , straight, crookneck and flat—each with its particular taste.

M o s t of the varieties sold are the bush types, (especially zucchini), so you'll have to assign a larger space (a 3' x 3' area) to just one plant. However, those plants can produce a vast a m o u n t of fruit, so most gardeners think it's worthwhile, at least for one or two plants.

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An alternate solution is to g r o w the v i n i n g types on vertical frames, w h i c h is quite a space saver.

(Zucchini can be trained to grow vertically, but it still takes a lot of r o o m because of those huge leaves and prickly stems.) C h e c k the seed packet or catalog to m a k e sure y o u are getting a vine type; if the seed packet or catalog doesn't say so, call the seed company's toll-free n u m b e r and ask.

Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: Doesn't transplant well because of the l o n g taproot. It's best to start seeds o u t d o o r s .

If y o u do w a n t to start indoors, plant o n e seed in a paper c u p of Mel's M i x 1 inch deep. Plant 2 weeks before y o u r last frost date.

Transplanting: Plant outdoors on y o u r last spring frost date.

Seeds Outdoors: Sprouts in 5 to 10 days o u t d o o r s . For bush types, plant 2 presoaked seeds in the center of a nine-square space. For v i n e types, also plant 2 presoaked seeds in the m i d d l e of a 2-square-foot space u n d e r y o u r vertical frame. M a k e sure y o u h o l l o w o u t a dish shape a r o u n d the planted seeds to h o l d p l e n t y of water. Place a plastic-covered cage over the seeds to w a r m the soil. After sprouting, c u t o f f the weakest plant if b o t h seeds sprout.

Growing

Watering: K e e p the leaves dry to prevent p o w d e r y mildew.

Maintenance: W e e d weekly; keep vines trained up vertical frames or within b o u n d s of the square.

Harvesting

How: Carefully c u t t h r o u g h the fruit stem b u t do n o t c u t the m a i n vine or leaf stems. H a n d l e the squash gently as their skins are very soft a n d easily d a m a g e d by fingernails or if d r o p p e d .

When: Harvest as soon as the blossoms wilt, and until the fruits are 6 to 9 inches long. Don't let t h e m grow a n y longer. Sometimes y o u have to harvest at least three times a week; they g r o w that fast.

Squash loses flavor as the seeds inside mature.

Preparing and Using

Rinse lightly a n d serve sliced or cut into sticks, w i t h a d i p , or just as an appetizer anytime. C o o k lightly by s t e a m i n g or stir-frying, in a n y n u m b e r of dishes or c o m b i n a t i o n s . Serve squash by itself or w i t h other vegetables, seasoned w i t h a little dressing, grated cheese, or c h o p p e d parsley. Squash i s high i n vitamins A , B i , a n d C .

Problems

Squash vine borer and squash bug; p o w d e r y mildew.

Hints and Tips

If y o u need or w a n t to tell the kids about the birds and bees, the garden is the right place to do i t —

and s u m m e r squash is the right plant for y o u to use. Point o u t to a n y eager faces the difference between the male a n d female flower. T h e female already has a miniature fruit right before the blossom. T h e male blossom, w h i c h contains the p o l l e n — o h , y o u k n o w the rest of the story. Didn't your mother or father talk to y o u in the garden?

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Winter Squash

Description

A space-hogging plant that m a n y gardeners won't g r o w because of its large leaves and r a m p a g i n g vines, winter squash can take over the entire garden. That's w h y we g r o w it vertically! T h e fruit can be picked in the late fall a n d stored w i t h o u t difficulty to be used d u r i n g the winter; it retains its delectable flavor l o n g after b e i n g harvested.

There are m a n y varieties to select from, but butternut and acorn are the most popular. All winter squashes have thick skins that harden in the fall, and are generally picked after the vines have been killed by frost. You don't get your compensation until season's end, but since there is almost no fresh produce then, the winter squash is very welcomed. T h e fruit has a mild flavor and is fine grained.

Starting

Location: Full sun, but tolerates a little shade.

Seeds Indoors: N o .

Transplanting: Does not transplant well because of the long taproot.

Seeds Outdoors: Since the seeds sprout quickly, you might as well start them outdoors. Plant two presoaked seeds in the center of 2 square feet. M a k e sure you've left a 2-inch depression around the seeds to h o l d lots of water d u r i n g the season. C o v e r w i t h a plastic covered cage to w a r m the soil and encourage fast seed sprouting. C u t off the weakest plant if b o t h seeds sprout.

Crowing

Watering: K e e p soil moist.

Maintenance: Weed weekly; keep vines trained up the vertical frame.

Harvesting

How: C u t the squash from the vine, leaving as long a stem as possible, at least 2 inches. T h e n set the fruit out in the sun to cure for a few days, protecting it at night w h e n frost is in the forecast.

When: Harvest after the first light frost, which will kill the leaves and vines, and after the main vine wilts, but before a very hard frost.

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Preparing and Using

Peel, cut in hall, scoop o u t seeds, and prepare for boiling or baking. Excellent served mashed or in c h u n k s w i t h butter and parsley. W i n t e r squash can even be added to s o m e soups and stews.

Butternut can be used in p u m p k i n pie recipes (many cooks say it's better tasting than p u m p k i n itself). Store winter squash in a cool, dry place at 40° to 50°F; check often and use if y o u see any bruised or rotten spots.

Problems

A few beetles; p o w d e r y mildew; and vines too rambunctious to control.

Hints and Tips

W i t h o u t a vertical frame, winter squash will take over y o u r garden, so m a k e sure y o u o n l y g r o w winter squash vertically. T h i s squash is so prolific and vigorous that it is a perfect plant for an arbor or extended vertical structure. W h e n picking the squash, handle the fruit carefully and cut the s t e m —

don't break it off.

Tomato

Description

If y o u don't plant anything else, y o u should plant t o m a t o e s — a few different varieties at the very least.

T h e r e is a huge selection available, some specifically suited for eating, juicing, cooking, or canning.

They're available in early, midseason, or late types in different colors ranging from red, orange, pink, and yellow. Size also varies from the small cherry tomato to the extra large 4 - p o u n d types that w i n awards at the county fair.

W h e n c h o o s i n g varieties, it's very i m p o r t a n t to consider w h e t h e r they are pest- a n d disease-resistant. This is very important, so make a note: resistant varieties are labeled V F N . V indicates the plant is resistant to Verticillium wilt; F indicates it will resist Fusarium wilt; and N is for nematodes, which are tiny, tiny w o r m s that infect the roots. T h e r e are some very g o o d non-resistant traditional varieties,

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but if you are hit with any of these problems and lose your plants virtually overnight just w h e n they're starting to produce, you'll understand the value of the varieties that are disease- and pest-resistant.

T h e resistant varieties taste great and also mature in early, midseason, or late season. Usually the early season fruits are best suited to the colder climates in the north. If y o u live in a longer-season climate, y o u can g r o w a few different varieties that will produce all season long.

Tomatoes have t w o different growth habits: determinate and indeterminate (in other words, bush or vine). Bush varieties that grow no more than 3 feet tall are the determinate kinds. Indeterminate types, the vine types, are also the m o s t c o m m o n a n d usually mature in m i d - to late season. T h e y grow the biggest tomatoes, take the longest to mature, a n d last until frost kills t h e m . Y o u can amaze your family a n d friends by r e m e m b e r i n g the n a m e of the t w o different types this way: "It is indeterminate how tall the v i n e types will grow."

Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: Sprouts in one w e e k at 70°F. Sprinkle 5 or so seeds of each variety y o u w a n t to grow in individual cups filled w i t h vermiculite six w e e k s before y o u r last spring frost. Just barely cover with vermiculite and water; m o v e to full sunlight as soon as first shoots appear. T h e n pot up in seedling trays or individual pots as soon as plants are large e n o u g h (usually 1 to 3 weeks). Keep a careful w a t c h over the plants, especially after transplanting t h e m into seedling trays, because any check or stoppage of the growth will affect the ultimate bearing capacity of the plant.

Transplanting: H a r d e n off transplants for one to t w o weeks, and plant outside on or after your frost-free date. Plant one vine-type plant per square foot. Bush types are planted in the center of a nine square foot area. T h e y take up so m u c h r o o m that I n o w g r o w o n l y vine-type varieties. W a t e r and cover w i t h a plastic-covered wire cage for protection from the cold and w i n d . Leave the cage on until the plants are at least 18 inches tall and pushing at the top.

Seeds Outdoors: T h e season is too short to start outdoors.

Growing

Watering: Keep water off the plant leaves.

Maintenance: Prune off side branches (suckers) weekly for vine types and guide plant tops up through netting. Prune off lower dead or yellow leaves. K e e p adding m u l c h as the season gets hotter.

Harvesting

How: Gently twist and pull ripe tomatoes so the stem breaks (if it's ripe it should easily break away), or even better, cut the stem so as not to disturb the rest of the remaining fruit.

When: If you're not g o i n g to wait until they're red and ripe, w h y g r o w t h e m yourself? S o m e gardeners like to p i c k t h e m just slightly before that p o i n t (say a day or t w o ) if they w a n t extra-firm tomatoes for sandwiches or a particular dish. If y o u leave t h e m on the v i n e t o o l o n g they will turn soft a n d mushy, so inspect daily; it's o n e of the pleasures you've been w a i t i n g for all year.

Preparing and Using

T h i s is a subject fit for an entire book, and in fact m a n y have been written. W h a t can one say in a few paragraphs? Tomatoes can be used in a multitude of ways. Y o u can enjoy plate after plate of sliced tomatoes seasoned w i t h lots of pepper and sometimes a little mayonnaise; try pouring your favorite salad dressing over that same dish of sliced tomatoes. Soak a plate full in vinegar overnight for the next

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day's treat. A d d thick slices of fresh tomatoes to any casserole and enjoy a flavor not experienced the rest of the year. If y o u have a lot of tomatoes, use them fresh in cooking instead of canned tomatoes.

Problems

C u t w o r m , whitefly, and the big, bad, but beautiful tomato horn w o r m ; various wilt diseases.

Hints and Tips

D o n ' t let a n y o n e , a n y t i m e ever s m o k e in y o u r garden. T h e y m a y c o n t a m i n a t e y o u r plants w i t h a t o b a c c o disease. In fact, they should even wash their hands before entering the garden if they are g o i n g to handle any of the plants. ( O h , well, there goes all y o u r s m o k i n g friends.) HERBS

Basil

Description

Basil is a non-invasive member of the mint family. 'Sweet Genovese' is the pesto basil. Basil is used not only in Italian cooking, but in m a n y Asian cuisines. In India, it is planted around the temples and is a part of m a n y religious ceremonies. Basil also comes in flavors such as c i n n a m o n , licorice, and lemon.

Go ahead and s p l u r g e — g r o w a few different kinds and discover the w o n d e r s of this beautiful and delicious herb.

Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: Start seeds indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost. Seeds germinate quickly Transplanting: Set out after all danger o f frost has passed and the soil has warmed. Basil will stop g r o w i n g if the weather is cool a n d take a w h i l e to catch up, so wait to transplant basil until the weather has settled.

Seeds Outdoors: Sow basil seeds where the plants are to be grown in warm soil. Seeds germinate in 7 to 10 days, and the plants grow quickly.

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Crowing

Watering: Keep well-watered.

Maintenance: Pinch basil often to keep the plant bushy. Harvesting basil for cooking will also keep the plant strong and bushy. For energetic, tasty plants, remove flower buds as they appear.

Harvesting

How: Pinch stems just above leaf nodes where new stems will sprout. Use only the leaves in cooking.

When: Harvest basil anytime. In fact, the more you pinch off leaves and stems, the more it will grow.

Preparing and Using

Use fresh leaves in cooking, discarding stems. Dried basil does not retain its flavor. Excess basil can be processed with olive oil, wrapped tightly in plastic wrap, and stored in the freezer for up to 3 months.

Problems

Aphids and Japanese beetles; Fusarium wilt.

Chive

Description

This is a fun little plant w i t h a spiky hairdo. T h e slim, round leaves are hollow and have a mild onion scent w h e n cut. T h e pinkish-purple flowers are edible and appear in late spring and make a pretty garnish for salads. C h i v e s are a m e m b e r of the o n i o n family, and o d d l y e n o u g h , it is one herb that hasn't really been used for medicinal purposes d u r i n g its l o n g history. It is simply a u n i q u e garden plant that has enhanced the flavor of savory foods for centuries.

Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: Plant seeds indoors in late winter. Seeds can take up to 21 days to germinate.

Transplanting: Set plants out in spring. Although chives are cold-hardy, it is best to set new plants out after all danger of frost has passed.

Seeds Outdoors: Sprouts in late spring to early summer.

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Growing

Watering: Keep soil moist.

Maintenance: Plants will spread, so divide clumps every few years to rejuvenate the plants.

Harvesting

How: Snip the tips of the leaves as needed to garnish baked potatoes and creamed soups. Don't cut off more than V3 of the plant at any one time.

When: Chives can be harvested anytime after the new leaves have reached 6 to 8 inches. T o enjoy the tasty p i n k flowers, don't harvest the plant until y o u can see the flower b u d s , then clip a r o u n d t h e m or wait until they b l o o m . T h e flowers m a k e a lovely garnish.

Preparing and Using

C u t '/3 of the tops off all leaves if y o u like the flat-top look, or cut a few leaves d o w n to V.3 of each leaf. Snip the fresh hollow leaves into salads, sauces, soups, or dips.

Problems

Insufficient water can cause leaf tips to turn brown.

Cilantro

S e e d to Harvest/Flower: 5 weeks

(leaves), 12 weeks (coriander seeds)

S e e d s Storage: N/A

W e e k s to Maturity: 5 weeks

Indoor S e e d Starting: no

Earliest O u t d o o r Planting: after

last frost

Additional Plantings: 2-week

intervals until early summer for

continuous harvest

Last Planting: not needed

Description

T h e fresh leaf of cilantro is probably the m o s t w i d e l y used of all flavoring herbs t h r o u g h o u t the world. It is used in M i d d l e Eastern, Indian, Southeast Asian, and South American cuisines. Cilantro is a pretty plant that looks somewhat like parsley. Use it like parsley in smaller quantities for a unique tang. W h e n cilantro goes to seed, it becomes another herb altogether—coriander. Ancients used to c h e w coriander seeds to c o m b a t heartburn (probably after w e e d i n g their l o n g single-row gardens).

T h e seeds are sweet w h e n they're ripe, but terribly bitter w h e n immature.

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Starting

Location: Full sun to partial shade.

Seeds Indoors: N o .

Transplanting: Does not transplant well.

Seeds Outdoors: After last frost.

Growing

Watering: Weekly.

Maintenance: Shelter the plants from wind, otherwise cilantro needs little care beside watering.

Harvesting

How: Pick cilantro leaves as y o u need t h e m , even if the plant is only 6 inches tall. For coriander seeds, cut w h o l e plants and h a n g to dry, and then shake the dried seeds into a paper bag.

When: Harvest the cilantro leaves anytime after the plant has reached 6 to 8 inches. Harvest the seeds (coriander) after the plants have turned brown but before the seeds start to fall. Cilantro self-sows with abandon.

Preparing and Using

Cilantro leaves and coriander seeds are both used in curries and pickles. T h e strong, spicy leaves can be added to salads, fish, or beans, and it is found as an ingredient in m a n y ethnic recipes. T h e milder, sweeter seeds can be ground and used in breads or cakes.

Problems

Cilantro is usually pest- and disease-free. T h e plant does suffer in h u m i d , rainy weather.

Mint

Description

M i n t , and other members of the mint family, has the distinguishing characteristic of square stems.

You can see this best by looking at the cut end of a mint stem. M i n t plants c o m e in many flavors,

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such as spearmint, peppermint, apple, l e m o n , and chocolate, and all mints give off a lovely scent w h e n the leaves are crushed. B u t b e w a r e — m i n t is invasive. It sends out tough runners that g r o w roots and leaves every few inches, and will crop up anywhere it can. To keep mint plants in bounds, cut a 6-inch diameter circle around the plants in late spring and again in early fall, and pull out any runners outside the circle. Try not to leave any small pieces in the g r o u n d — t h e y too will sprout. In a Square Foot Garden, sink a 12-inch square or round plastic pail or clay pot in that square; don't use a conventional p o t w i t h holes on the side or a r o u n d the b o t t o m . If using a pail, drill s o m e small drainage holes in the b o t t o m . If using a clay pot, cover the b o t t o m hole w i t h a piece of broken crockery or bottle cap. Pull the entire pot up in the fall and take it inside as a houseplant. Don't let this discourage y o u from growing m a n y different kinds of mints, however, because the benefits truly outweigh the extra work.

Starting

Location: Sun to partial shade.

Seeds Lndoors: N o , does not c o m e true from seed.

Transplanting: Plant divisions anytime from spring through fall.

Seeds Outdoors: N o .

Growing

Watering: Weekly.

Maintenance: C u t back to promote bushiness.

Harvesting

How: C u t m i n t stems back to a pair of leaves. T h i s is where new branches will form. Use the leaves as a flavoring and sprigs as a garnish.

When: H a r v e s t m i n t a n y t i m e after the plant has reached 6 inches tall; do n o t harvest the leaves of creeping (groundcover) m i n t s .

Preparing and Using

Use fresh m i n t leaves in sauces, m i n t jelly, salads, or to flavor herb teas. Float a sprig of m i n t in your favorite s u m m e r drink, bruising the b o t t o m leaves a little to impart that refreshing flavor. T u c k a sprig of m i n t into a fruit cup for color and scent.

Problems

M i n t is basically disease- and pest-free. Plants m a y wilt and turn b r o w n w i t h o u t sufficient water, but should spring right back after a g o o d soaking.

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Oregano

AT A GLANCE

S e e d to Harvest/Flower: 16 weeks;

hardy perennial

S e e d s Storage: n/a

W e e k s to Maturity: 8 to 10 weeks

Indoor S e e d Starting: 6 weeks

before last spring frost

Earliest O u t d o o r Planting: after

last frost

Additional Plantings: anytime

throughout growing season

Last Planting: not needed

Description

W h a t would Italian food be w i t h o u t a sprinkling of oregano to give it flavor and color? Oregano is a native of the M e d i t e r r a n e a n area a n d enjoys lots of sunshine. It is a pretty plant w i t h r o u n d leaves tightly covering the stems. Variegated oregano is particularly lovely w i t h the leaves edged in white or gold, but the variegated plants are not quite as hardy as the green ones a n d are used mostly as ornamental plants. G i v e oregano frequent trimmings to keep it neat and so y o u can dry the leaves. It is one of few herbs w h o s e flavor is stronger dried than fresh. W h e n the leaves have dried, crumble them lightly and store in an airtight container.

Starting

Location: Full sun.

Seeds Indoors: 4 to 6 weeks before last spring frost.

Transplanting: Plant divisions anytime after the temperatures reach 45°F

Seeds Outdoors: Spring, after last frost; seeds need light to germinate.

Crowing

Watering: Weekly.

Maintenance: Water sparingly; too m u c h water will cause root rot. Harvest or trim mature plants often to keep t h e m in b o u n d s . D i v i d e every 2 to 3 years.

Harvesting

How: C u t stems back to a pair of leaves. T h i s is where new branches will form.

When: Oregano can be harvested anytime during the summer months, but the flavor is best after the buds have formed but just before the flowers open.

Preparing and Using

O r e g a n o loses its distinctive flavor d u r i n g c o o k i n g , so always add it in the last few minutes. Use oregano in salads, casseroles, soups, sauces, poultry dishes, and of course, pizza. Dried oregano has a stronger flavor than fresh and goes especially well w i t h tomato or rice dishes.

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Problems

O r e g a n o is usually pest- and disease-free. T o o m u c h water can cause root rot.

FLOWERS

Dahlia

Description

N a t i v e to M e x i c o , dahlias literally c o m e in all shapes and sizes. T h i s gets c o m p l i c a t e d . T h e y are grouped into nine sizes based on the diameter of the flower, and 18 classifications of form, from the daisy-like decorative form, to p o m p o m , cactus, a n d the fully d o u b l e stellar form. Flowers c o m e in every color except blue and green, and multicolors a b o u n d . Even the leaves c o m e in colors, from light green to deepest green to burgundy. Plus, they are said to guard n e i g h b o r i n g plants against nematodes. T h e r e is indeed a dahlia for everyone.

Border or d w a r f dahlias grow 12 to 24 inches high and rarely need staking. Garden dahlias are in the 2 to 4 foot range, while giant forms have been k n o w n to g r o w to 10 f e e t — b u t not in a Square Foot G a r d e n ! Start y o u r o w n plants from seed (no guarantee w h a t color you'll get), or b u y roots (called tubers) for special, especially s h o w y types. In the fall, dig up the n e w l y formed tubers and store in a frost-free area until the next spring.

Warning: dahlias can be habit-forming. If you get h o o k e d (I did), join your local Dahlia Society and you'll fit right in!

Starting

Location: Full sun to partial shade for best results.

Seeds Indoors: Start seeds 6 to 8 weeks before last spring frost. Seedlings emerge in 5 to 21 days.

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Transplanting: After last frost date.

Seeds Outdoors: N o , time is too short for seeds, but y o u can plant tubers anytime after the last frost.

Growing

Watering: Water dahlia tubers w h e n first setting t h e m out, then w a i t until y o u see shoots before watering again unless the soil is unusually dry. T h i s will prevent the tubers from rotting. O n c e the root system is established and shoots begin to show, give dahlia plants daily water, especially during the hottest s u m m e r months.

Maintenance: W h e n the plant reaches a b o u t 3 inches tall, p i n c h off the g r o w i n g tip to encourage bushy growth. M u l c h dahlias to keep the soil moist. S u p p o r t tall varieties. D e a d h e a d to encourage r e b l o o m i n g .

Since dahlias are easily g r o w n f r o m seed, y o u m a y n o t w a n t to bother d i g g i n g up the tiny tubers of seed-grown plants. S i m p l y start t h e m f r o m seed again next year. If y o u do w a n t to dig up the tubers, after the first frost has killed the foliage, carefully d i g dahlia tubers a n d let them dry for a few hours. C u t off the stems, leaving a 2-inch s t u m p , remove excess soil, a n d store in a b o x filled w i t h peat moss or vermiculite, in a cool, frost-free location. C h e c k the dahlias each m o n t h over the w i n t e r a n d discard any rotten tubers. Spray a n y tubers that start to shrivel w i t h w a r m water.

Hint: Be careful of the w o r d "miniature" w h e n purchasing d a h l i a s — i t usually refers to the flower size, not the plant size.

Harvesting

How: Dahlias have h o l l o w stems, a n d a sticky w h i t e substance will ooze f r o m the cut. T h i s is a nutrient that the cut flower needs to stay alive. To preserve the flower, sear the cut end w i t h a m a t c h or candle. After searing, p r i c k a hole in the stem just u n d e r the head of the flower.

R e m o v e a n y leaves that will fall b e l o w the waterline. Dahlias will last 5 to 7 days in a vase.

When: C u t dahlias w h e n the flowers are fully open.

Problems

Earwigs and slugs; powdery mildew.

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Dusty Miller

Description

O n e o f m y favorites for the Square Foot G a r d e n ! T h e c h a r m i n g dusty millet has been g r o w n b y generations of gardeners, and for g o o d reason. T h e soft, silvery foliage is a beautiful addition to just a b o u t a n y garden type, from formal to casual, and the color blends or contrasts w i t h m a n y other leaves a n d flowers. Its carefree nature, u n i q u e color, and interesting texture m a k e it a gardener's favorite. T h e r e are a few different kinds of dusty miller, mostly distinguished by the d e p t h of the

"cuts" in the f o l i a g e — s o m e are scalloped, s o m e are lacy. D u s t y miller plants have unattractive mustard-yellow flowers that grow on plants that have overwintered. T h e r e are other annuals, and even perennials, that are easily confused w i t h dusty miller. If the plant in question has w h i t e daisylike flowers, it is probably Silver Lace. If it has purple flowers, then it is most likely a perennial Centaurea.

Regardless of w h i c h plant y o u actually have, enjoy it as a lovely garden accent.

Starting

Location: Full sun to partial shade.

Seeds Indoors: 10 to 15 weeks before last frost; seeds need light to germinate.

Transplanting: Dusty miller is unique in that it can be set out into the garden 2 to 3 weeks before last frost. Waiting until other annuals are ready to be planted after the last frost is fine, too.

Seed Outdoors: O n l y in truly frost-free areas as it is a slow grower.

Crowing

Watering: Water regularly when young, weekly once established. Even though dusty miller is drought tolerant, it will do best if watered regularly.

Maintenance: Dusty miller is fairly hardy and will overwinter in many areas, especially if cut back and mulched in the late fall. Prune second-year plants back severely to maintain the plant's shape and remove any flowering stems as they appear.

Harvesting

C u t branches at any time for flower displays.

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Problems

Rot can be a problem in wet soil. Otherwise, dusty miller is nearly problem-free.

Marigold

Description

Just about everyone will recognize the p o m p o m flowers of the marigold. T h e most c o m m o n flower colors are orange, yellow, and red/orange bicolor, but they can be found in burgundy, red, and even a creamy white. Flowers can be single, double, or crested, and between 1 and 6 inches in diameter.

Marigold leaves are distinctive—slim and l a c y — a n d give off a pungent scent w h e n cut or crushed.

T h e smaller marigold plants are sometimes called French marigolds, but all marigolds are native to subtropical A m e r i c a a n d have been g r o w n in M e x i c o for thousands of years. T h e d w a r f plants range in size from 6 to 8 inches tall. Don't be fooled by the n a m e — d w a r f refers to the plant size, not necessarily the flower size.

T h e larger marigold plants are k n o w n as African marigolds, but like their smaller cousins, they are also indigenous to the Americas. G i a n t marigolds can grow to over 3 feet tall and are a little too big for a Square Foot Garden.

Marigolds are said to discourage nematodes w h e n planted near tomatoes, potatoes, asparagus, strawberries, or roses, especially if they are grown for several seasons in ground where nematodes are suspected. Marigolds also repel the Mexican bean beetle w h e n planted around bean plants. Japanese beetles are attracted to the odorless varieties of marigolds, where they can be trapped and drowned in soapy water placed near the marigolds.

I want to tell y o u a little story about what is grown around the globe. W h e n e v e r we do a humanitarian project overseas, people ask me, " H o w do y o u k n o w what crops they can grow in that country?"

I answer, " W e specifically tell the people we do not try to compete w i t h the farmer or try to grow the basic things they normally eat as part of their Square Meter Garden. We tell them, " W e are going to grow new things so your children can have m o r e nutrients and better health than they n o w have."

A n d still we are asked, "But, h o w do you k n o w those things will grow there?"

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T h e answer was illustrated w h e n I w e n t to India to attend the grand opening ceremonies of Father Abraham's n e w Square F o o t G a r d e n Training Center. T h e y gave us garlands of their locally g r o w n special flower—and guess w h a t it was? Marigolds! Even more astounding, broccoli turned o u t to be their most popular and bestselling vegetable. T h a t made me realize that everything we g r o w in our U S A Square Foot Gardens can usually be grown just about anywhere in the world.

Starting

Location: G r o w in a s u n n y location.

Seeds Lndoors: M a r i g o l d seeds will germinate in a b o u t 7 to 14 days, ideal for a child's first foray into the wonders of g r o w i n g plants from seeds.

Transplanting: After last frost date.

Seeds Outdoors: Okay, b u t usually not practical as the season is too short.

Crowing

Watering: W e e k l y w h e n y o u n g , twice w e e k l y w h e n larger. D o n ' t let marigolds dry o u t — t h e plants w i l l w i l t a n d die quickly, a n d the stress will attract insects a n d diseases.

Maintenance: P i n c h the g r o w i n g tips b a c k w h e n the plant reaches a b o u t 3 inches tall to encourage bushiness. P i n c h or cut off spent b l o o m s to p r o l o n g flowering.

Harvesting

How: W h e n t h i n k i n g of flowers to cut for the vase, marigolds don't i m m e d i a t e l y spring to m i n d .

H o w e v e r , they m a k e a cute b o u q u e t that can last for 7 to 14 days, as l o n g as the stems are n o t bent. M a r i g o l d stems are short, so try to cut where the flower stem meets a main stem. R e m o v e the leaves that will be under water. To reduce the aroma, add a spoonful of sugar to the water.

When: C u t marigolds w h e n the flowers are one-half to three-quarters open. Fully open marigolds will die quickly in the vase.

Problems

Slugs and mites; Botrytis blight and wilt.

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Pansy

Description

T h e best word to describe pansy flowers is "adorable." T h e little "faces" look up at y o u with hope for a lovely spring after a cold winter, and as a last hoorah of color in the fall. Even the flowers without the actual black blotches look like happy faces. Pansies c o m e in so m a n y colors and color combinations that it's difficult to keep up w i t h the changes and even more difficult to choose w h i c h ones to plant. T h e y are easy to grow, as l o n g as y o u remember that they like cool, moist conditions. W h e n the weather gets hot and dry, plan to either discard or move your pansies.

Starting

Location: In hotter areas, look for heat-resistant types and plant in moderate shade. Pansies can be planted in full sun where s u m m e r s are cool.

Seeds Indoors: G r o w i n g pansies from seed indoors can be a challenge. Sow indoors 14 to 16 weeks before the last frost date. Barely cover the seed, then refrigerate for 2 weeks. O n c e exposed to r o o m temperatures, seeds s h o u l d sprout in 10 days.

Transplanting: Set pansies out in early spring as soon as the ground can be worked, and again in early fall to bring the gardening season to a colorful close. In warmer climates, set t h e m out in fall for early spring bloom.

Seeds Outdoors: N o t practical.

Growing

Watering: Weekly; water more often if the plants wilt and in the heat of the summer.

Maintenance: Keep pansies cool and moist. Deadhead pansies for continuous bloom, and cut back leggy plants to stimulate n e w growth.

Harvesting

How: Pansies make a cute cut flower; keep in m i n d that the stems are quite short.

When: Cut pansy flowers just after they unfurl.

Problems

Slugs and snails; insufficient moisture.

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Petunia

Description

Petunias are one of the easiest annuals to grow, especially if they ate purchased as plants. T h e seeds are so tiny, a teaspoon contains over 10,000 seeds! T h e y are branching, creeping plants w i t h light-green, hairy leaves that can be sticky. T h e trumpet-shaped flowers c o m e in just a b o u t every color imaginable, even the once-impossible yellow, and the flower forms range from single to d o u b l e , ruffled, striped, and scalloped. Petunia flowers c o m e in a range of sizes—grandifloras have 4 to 5 inch flowers, multifloras have 2 to 3 inch flowers, a n d millifloras have an a b u n d a n c e of tiny 1-inch flowers. Pinch petunia plants back by about one-third before planting, then keep them deadheaded and pruned throughout the growing season for a nonstop performance.

Starting

Location: Full sun to partial shade.

Seeds Indoors: Start seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before last frost, 12 to 14 weeks for slower growing varieties. Don't cover the seeds. Petunias can germinate slowly, from 7 to 21 days.

Transplanting: Set petunias out w h e n all danger o f frost has passed. Pinch at transplanting for better b r a n c h i n g .

Seeds Outdoors: N o . Growth from seed takes too long to be practical.

Crowing

Watering: Weekly.

Maintenance: Deadhead to encourage bloom, and prune back by half if the plant gets scraggly.

Harvesting

How: Petunia flowers m a k e an excellent c u t flower for very small containers. T r y a tiny vase on the kitchen table or sink area w i t h just o n e stem in water.

When: Just as the bud is opening.

Problems

Aphids; gray m o l d and soft rot can occur in h u m i d areas.

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Salvia

Description

T h e r e are so m a n y different salvias that an entire garden can be dedicated to t h e m w i t h o u t duplication. Salvia splendens is an annual salvia with tall spikes o f red or white flowers, although hybridizers have c o m e up with pink, salmon, and a deep purple that looks almost black. Also k n o w n as scarlet sage, salvia is actually a m e m b e r of the m i n t family, bearing the trademark square stem.

T h e s e lovely plants are workhorses in the hot, s u n n y garden, and are quite d r o u g h t tolerant once they're established. C u t the plant back by one-third at planting time, to a pair of leaves where y o u see n e w sprouts e m e r g i n g to encourage bushiness, and keep it deadheaded t h r o u g h o u t the g r o w i n g season for a l o n g display of color, texture, a n d height.

Starting

Location: Full sun to partial shade.

Seeds Indoors: Sow seed indoors 6 to 8 weeks before the last frost. Don't cover the tiny seeds, they need light to germinate. K e e p the m i x just slightly moist to avoid damping-off.

Transplanting: Set salvia out after the soil has warmed as they can be very frost sensitive.

Seeds Outdoors: N o , not enough time.

Growing

Watering: Weekly.

Maintenance: Deadhead often to promote branching and uninterrupted flowering.

Harvesting

How: To encourage a fall crop of blooms, cut all the main stems back to a pair of leaves again in late summer and you'll have a late season showcase of color.

When: As soon as half the buds have opened on the flower stalk.

Problems

Slugs, aphids and whitefly; mildew.

I

I

Mel's Final Summary

W e l l — t h e r e y o u have it! T h e A L L N E W Square Foot G a r d e n i n g System w i t h the latest updates and improvements I've made to the original system I invented thirty years ago.

In closing, I'd like to highlight the m o s t i m p o r t a n t features of S F G for y o u so y o u truly understand w h y it's so different f r o m the old-fashioned, o u t d a t e d single-row gardening system we've all been taught at one time or another. Square Foot G a r d e n i n g is sort of like a picture puzzle of an attractive garden ready for h a r v e s t — a n d there's o n l y sixteen large pieces to fit t o g e t h e r to p r o d u c e the finished picture (that is, the harvest). To produce the same harvest-picture, the single-row garden has 489 tiny pieces to fit together!

T h e features o f S F G will help y o u understand h o w o n e t h i n g relates to another and h o w all the simplifications of S F G fit together to help each other produce a m u c h better garden for y o u — w i t h o u t a lot of w o r k and knowledge. Here are the most important and far reaching of those features.

Location

Since Square F o o t G a r d e n i n g takes o n l y 20 percent of the space to p r o d u c e 100 percent of the harvest, it can be located almost a n y w h e r e — a n d the best location is close to the house. That's where you'll pass it more often, notice and appreciate it more and as a result, you'll take better care of it. T h i s will p r o d u c e a better a n d m o r e productive garden.

Size

T h e same t h i n g applies t o protecting y o u r garden f r o m just a b o u t a n y t h i n g harmful, weather a n d pests b e i n g the m o s t destructive; the smaller size makes everything easier to maintain a n d control.

Size also applies to w h o can garden; this manageable size means e v e r y o n e — e v e n those w i t h limited time or e n e r g y — c a n enjoy the benefits of the garden.

Soil Requirements

We've eliminated all the things y o u used to have to learn about soil and the special requirements for each individual vegetable—because

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n o w you're using n o t h i n g b u t Mel's M i x . I f y o u m a k e yours according to the formula and if y o u use a g o o d b l e n d e d c o m p o s t made from at least five ingredients, you'll have a perfect soil for every single crop in your garden. We won't have to tell y o u to screen for stones, or add extra h u m u s , or that this crop needs a higher pH or a well-drained s o i l . . . or any of those things that most books have to tell you. You're starting out w i t h a perfect soil for every single crop.

So we don't have to give y o u different or special directions about soil for every single plant.

Location for Sunlight

All the vegetables need lots of sun: six to eight hours per day. If any of your garden area gets more sun than other areas, that's the place to p u t your w a r m weather or s u m m e r crops. T h e spring a n d fall cool weather crops can get by w i t h less sun, a n d in fact will do better in the s u m m e r if they do n o t have as m u c h sun as the other s u m m e r crops. O f course, i f y o u r entire garden gets the same a m o u n t o f sunlight, plant cool weather crops in the partial shade of a taller p l a n t — o r provide t h e m w i t h one of the simple sun shades described in Chapter 4.

Fertilizer

We don't use fertilizer anymore. We don't need it. Mel's M i x — w i t h its rich c o m p o s t — h a s all the natural nutrients, trace elements, and minerals that any of the plants c o u l d possibly w a n t . Y o u won't need to learn that this plant needs extra nitrogen or that plant needs extra p o t a s s i u m — b e c a u s e Mel's M i x has e v e r y t h i n g each plant needs, and it is readily available for t h e m . T h o s e that n e e d it, take it. T h o s e that don't n e e d it, don't take it. It's that simple; it's that easy. Y o u won't have to learn a n y t h i n g a b o u t fertilizer or the various formulas or w h a t N P K means . . . y o u won't have to go to the store to b u y fertilizer at all. T h i n k of the time a n d m o n e y you'll save! T h e best p a r t — i t ' s all natural a n d organic. Is that easy gardening or what?

But besides all that, you're going to have a perfect garden because you're starting w i t h a perfect soil. I'm sure y o u are tired of hearing about it, but the value and importance of the proper soil m i x cannot be overemphasized. After y o u b e c o m e successful w i t h your garden and begin helping others start their n e w S F G , please be as emphatic as I am about the proper soil mix. It virgually guarantees success.

Watering

T h e same goes for watering. T h e general directions for watering in the Square Foot Garden are to make sure the soil stays moist, and give the plants as much water as they need. A l t h o u g h that sounds nebulous at

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first, y o u will soon become acclimated to those directions, and you'll k n o w w h i c h plants require more. ( O f course, it all depends on size, season, weather, and the growth pattern of that particular plant.) A n y -

one can see that a large bushy plant needs m u c h more than a y o u n g seedling just starting. No matter w h a t m e t h o d of watering y o u use, another important feature of Mel's M i x is that y o u or your sprinkler system can't overwater, because this m i x drains out all the excess water.

Pests and Diseases

We also won't go into any detail of possible pests and diseases of each individual plant. I've had gardeners tell me that w h e n they read a l o n g list of potential threats, they often decide they don't w a n t to grow that c r o p — a n d that's a shame, because in all likelihood, they'll never see that pest or disease.

I think y o u have seen by n o w that S F G is not about all the problems and diseases of plant growth, it is about healthy productive plants growing in a garden starting w i t h healthy natural soil. As we explained in an earlier chapter, if y o u have a problem or some pests (if y o u can first identify or describe it), call y o u r local c o u n t y extension agent and describe it. T h e y can n o t o n l y tell y o u w h a t it is, but h o w to get rid of it. In addition, they k n o w y o u r expected frost dates and the best varieties to g r o w in y o u r local area.

O u r feeling, of course, is that w i t h y o u r natural rich soil, y o u won't have most problems; the plants will g r o w healthy and they'll be m u c h more resistant to any disease or pest.

When to Plant

Charts in this A p p e n d i x will give y o u all of the information y o u need to k n o w about w h e n to plant both seeds or seedlings, indoors or out.

T h e y also indicate w h e n to replant an additional crop in order to have a c o n t i n u o u s harvest t h r o u g h the g a r d e n i n g year.

How Much to Plant

Use extreme caution here. Remember, this is not single-row gardening where y o u usually plant one row of everything. Start o u t by asking yourself, " H o w m u c h do I really w a n t to harvest (not plant) in the time period that this crop will be ready?"

For example, a planting of broccoli will all be ready to harvest over a period of just a couple of weeks in late spring (after that it will go to seed). So if y o u o n l y w a n t to have t w o heads a week, then plant no more than four or five plants for that two-week harvest period. Don't forget broccoli is a cool weather crop, so y o u get to plant it again in the fall, w h i c h has a longer harvest period since it's getting colder rather than warmer.)

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For crops that give y o u a c o n t i n u o u s harvest like Swiss chard, parsley, tomatoes, or pole beans, g r o w o n l y e n o u g h plants to give y o u as m u c h as y o u w a n t to harvest each w e e k . Y o u don't have to feed the n e i g h b o r h o o d — a l t h o u g h sometimes y o u have to offer a few tomatoes in order to get rid of y o u r z u c c h i n i .

Specific Questions

If you're the kind of person w h o needs to k n o w everything y o u can find out about the plant and its planting, growing, and harvesting patterns in your area, then it w o u l d be wise to call the county agricultural extension agent. A s k t h e m for their leaflet on whatever crop you're interested i n — t h e y have m o r e than e n o u g h printed information on just a b o u t every single crop.

T h e only thing y o u have to be careful about is they're still teaching single-row gardening, unfortunately. All the literature that the governm e n t spends all that m o n e y on p r i n t i n g still shows the h a n d - m e -

d o w n row system from farming, so y o u have to be wise e n o u g h after reading this b o o k to interpret those differences a n d convert t h e m into the Square F o o t m e t h o d . It won't c h a n g e anything; it'll just make it m u c h easier. For example, y o u won't have to thin seedlings or improve soil by adding this or that special kind of fertilizer or hoe weeds or do all the other things we used to have to learn or do. So just strike that out from any literature y o u get from your county agent.

Harvesting Method

Be gende w h e n y o u harvest if you're picking something w i t h a stem, like a pepper, tomato, squash or even peas and beans. C u t the stem w i t h your garden scissors w h i l e y o u h o l d the fruit w i t h the other hand. Remember, w i t h S F G our plants are g r o w i n g in a very loose and friable soil, so it's important to be careful and not tug or y a n k on the plant.

Since y o u won't be overburdened w i t h too m u c h harvest in your S F G , y o u can take y o u r time a n d enjoy the actual harvest. It's a happy conclusion to g r o w i n g plants a n d should be quite different from the old days of r o w gardening. B a c k then, y o u h a d to m o v e fast to pick a w h o l e thirty-foot r o w of b u s h beans, twisting a n d yanking the beans off. T h e n y o u h a d to get the h o e o u t again to f i n i s h the morning's w o r k o f w e e d i n g ! H a r v e s t i n g the S F G w a y i s kind of like the difference b e t w e e n l o a d i n g sand bags in the t r u c k versus putting the children in their car seat.

For leaf crops where you're p i c k i n g individual leaves or s t e m s —

like lettuce, spinach, Swiss chard, or p a r s l e y — d o the same thing.

C u t the leaf or stem w i t h y o u r scissors, then place it in y o u r salad bowl or harvest basket. A lot of folks like to dip their harvest in the water bucket to wash it o f f — y o u could use a colander as your harvest

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basket. T h e n y o u can wash off your harvest right in the garden and any water and soil will fall right back into the garden. W h i c h one of the three Rs is that?

Harvesting and Eating

T h e r e are so m a n y different ideas and recipes that I just w a n t to encourage y o u to spend more time harvesting and using the produce.

Y o u have the time because your garden is no longer a lot of work. Eat more things raw and fresh right out of the garden. You'll find yourself g r o w i n g slimmer by the day as y o u fill up on all these goodies from the garden. W h e n y o u do c o o k , I w o u l d encourage y o u to use less fat, leave the meat out, and saute and broil m o r e often. Try n o t to c o o k in water and, of course, if y o u get the entire family to start out by eating half of the harvest raw and directly from the garden, you'll find that not only your family life will improve, but the kids will eat m o r e v e g e t a b l e s — m o r e often than y o u c o u l d ever imagine. T r y a family picnic supper s o m e d a y — h e l d right in the garden. See w h o can m a k e the m o s t unusual salad!

We just had a letter from a schoolteacher q u o t i n g a student w h o said, "I've never eaten a radish before, n o w I g r o w t h e m and love t h e m . " M o r e important, that student takes an interest in his garden, and derives a sense of accomplishment and pride from his efforts. It works for families t o o — t h e whole idea of S F G is to m a k e gardening a family-oriented, healthy, happy hobby.

A Word About Plant Families

I've m e n t i o n e d all through this b o o k h o w I feel that all of your plants are just like your children and should be treated as such. So it's fun and worthwhile to visit some of the plant families and get to k n o w t h e m a little better. S o m e members of different families will surprise y o u — l i k e lettuce. Wouldn't y o u think that w o u l d be in the leafy vegetable family? But no, it's in the sunflower family . . . A n d w h a t about celery? It's in the carrot family!

There's a lot y o u can learn f r o m this. Y o u can see that in the N i g h t s h a d e family, all the m e m b e r s b e l o n g to the h o t weather or s u m m e r crop; so they all need the same requirements and conditions of g r o w i n g . ( C h e c k the "At a G l a n c e " feature for m o r e i m p o r t a n t facts t o k n o w a b o u t s o m e o f the vegetables, f l o w e r s , a n d herbs y o u m i g h t b e g r o w i n g i n y o u r S F G . ) I f y o u b e c o m e familiar w i t h the plant families y o u won't have to learn a n d digest as m u c h inform a t i o n about individual crops because, for example, all plants in the same family have the same pests, diseases, and problems related to g r o w i n g (not that we expect to encounter any of that in our natural and rich Mel's M i x soil). Each family m e m b e r usually has the same frost resistance and is in the same cool or w a r m weather category. In

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CHART OF PLANT FAMILIES AND M E M B E R S

Carrot

Lily

Nightshade

Carrot

Asparagus

Eggplant

Celery

Mallow

Pepper

Parsley

Okra

Potato

Parsnip

Tomato

Mustard

Goosefoot

Bok Choy

Onion

Beet

Broccoli

Chive

Spinach

Brussel Sprouts

Garlic

Swiss Chard

Cabbage

Leek

Chinese Cabbage

Onion

Gourd

Cauliflower

Shallot

Cucumber

Collards

Gourd

Cress

Pea

Cantaloupe

Kale

Beans

Pumpkin

Horseradish

Peas

Squash

Kohlrabi

Watermelon

Mustard Greens

Sunflower

Radish

Endive

Grass

Rutabaga

Chicory

Corn

Turnip

Globe Artichoke

Jerusalem Artichoke

Lettuce

Sunflower

addition, they all require pretty m u c h the same type of care. So if y o u learn the families and the care of each family, you'll have a more satisfying garden experience.

Conclusion

These are just a few of my favorites of the multitude of flowers, vegetables, and herbs y o u can grow in your Square Foot Garden. C a n y o u visualize h o w attractive a quilt-like garden can be w h e n y o u plant something different in every square foot? C a n y o u see h o w little y o u really have to k n o w about plants and gardening to be successful? Start small and expand as y o u gain experience and success. T h e n spread the word and help others start their o w n S F G .

So g o o d luck with your g a r d e n — a n d please let me k n o w h o w you're doing. We love letters and pictures; this always encourages others to get started!

T h a n k you for all your support.

T h i s is Mel Bartholomew wishing y o u . . . H a p p y Gardening!

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Glossary

i i i I i i i I i i 1 1 i i 1 1 i i 1 1 i i i I i i i I i i i 11 i i I i i i I i i i I i i i I i acclimate. To b e c o m e a c c u s t o m e d to a different environment.

annual. A plant that lives its entire life in one season. It is genetically determined to germinate, grow, flower, set seed, and die the same year.

beneficial insects. Insects or their larvae that prey on pest organisms a n d their eggs. T h e y m a y be flying insects such as ladybugs, para-sitic wasps, praying mantids, and soldier bugs; or soil dwellers such as predatory nematodes, spiders, and ants.

biennial. A plant that is genetically p r o g r a m m e d to g r o w over t w o seasons before setting seed and dying.

bolting. T h e tendency of a leafy plant such as lettuce, spinach, or even cabbage to seed prematurely. O f t e n in response to very h o t weather, such a plant sends up tall stalks that bear flowers, then seeds; this usually affects the quality a n d flavor of the foliage crop.

climber. A plant that grows vertically by means of elongating stems.

It m a y twist, cling, or use holdfasts to climb vertical surfaces or supports.

cold hardiness. T h e ability of a perennial plant to survive the w i n t e r cold in a particular area.

compost. O r g a n i c matter that has u n d e r g o n e progressive d e c o m -

position by microbial a n d macrobial activity until it is reduced to a spongy, fluffy texture. A d d e d to soil of any type, it improves its ability to h o l d air a n d water a n d to drain well.

County agent/extension agent. An e m p l o y e e of the state university w h o is trained to provide information a n d assistance to farmers a n d h o m e o w n e r s a b o u t agricultural a n d horticultural techniques, soil analysis, a n d pest control. Usually, there is an office in every county.

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261

deadhead. To remove faded flowerheads from plants to improve their appearance, abort seed production, and stimulate further flowering.

deciduous. T h e opposite of evergreen; describes trees and shrubs that lose their leaves in the fall.

direct-SOW. To s o w seeds directly into the garden rather than starting t h e m in small pots for later t r a n s p l a n t i n g . x division. Splitting apart perennial plants to create several smaller rooted segments. Useful for c o n t r o l l i n g a plant's size a n d for acquiring m o r e plants, it is also essential to the health a n d c o n t i n u e d flowering of certain species.

dormancy (dormant). T h e period, usually winter, w h e n perennial plants temporarily cease active growth, a n d rest. S o m e plants, such as spring-blooming bulbs, go d o r m a n t in the summer.

drip irrigation. An efficient water delivery system t h r o u g h special lines, or hoses, laid t h r o u g h planted beds. W a t e r either soaks through the hoses or leaks t h r o u g h special emitters inserted in t h e m to go directly to plant roots.

germinate. To sprout; to enter a fertile seed's first stage of development.

handpick. To eliminate pest insects or slugs a n d caterpillars by removing t h e m f r o m plant foliage or k n o c k i n g t h e m into a plastic bag or jar of soapy or salty water to kill t h e m .

hardening-off. T h e process of gradually acclimating i n d o o r plants or seedlings raised indoors to o u t d o o r weather conditions.

hardiness. See cold hardiness.

herbaceous. Describes plants that have fleshy or soft stems that die back w i t h frost; the opposite of w o o d y .

herbicide. A n y product or chemical agent that kills plants. S o m e act on foliage and stem tissues, s o m e act on seeds.

hybrid. A plant that is the result of either intentional or natural cross-pollination between t w o or m o r e plants of the same species or genus. T h i s pedigree is expressed by the multiplication s y m b o l in between the two words in its botanical (scientific) name.

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insecticide. A n y p r o d u c t , c o m p o u n d , or garden aid formulated specifically to kill insects.

larva(e). An insect in its i m m a t u r e stage, after it hatches f r o m an egg. Typically a w o r m or caterpillar f o r m of a butterfly, m o t h , or beetle, larvae are voraciously h u n g r y ; this is the stage at w h i c h insects are m o s t destructive to plants.

mulch. A layer of material over bare soil that protects the soil f r o m erosion a n d c o m p a c t i o n by rain, a n d also discourages w e e d s . It m a y be inorganic (gravel, fabric) or organic ( w o o d chips, bark, pine needles, c h o p p e d leaves).

nectar. T h e sweet fluid p r o d u c e d by glands on flowers that attracts pollinators such as h u m m i n g b i r d s a n d honeybees, for w h o m the fluid is a source of energy.

organic material, matter. A n y material or debris that is derived f r o m plants. Carbon-based material that is capable of undergoing d e c o m -

position and decay.

peat moss. O r g a n i c matter f r o m peat sedges ( U n i t e d States) or s p h a g n u m mosses ( C a n a d a ) , often used to i m p r o v e soil texture.

T h e acidity of s p h a g n u m peat moss makes it ideal for b o o s t i n g or m a i n t a i n i n g soil acidity while also i m p r o v i n g its drainage.

perennial. A flowering plant that lives over three or m o r e seasons.

M a n y die back w i t h frost, b u t their roots survive the winter and generate n e w shoots in spring.

pesticide. A n y p r o d u c t , c o m p o u n d , or device that kills pest insects, disease pathogens, pest animals, or weeds.

pinch of seeds. Just t w o or three seeds for each hole.

photosynthesis. T h e process by w h i c h plants, collecting energy from the sun by means of the chlorophyll in their foliage, transform carbon dioxide in the air and water f r o m the soil into carbohydrates that fuel their g r o w t h .

pollen. T h e yellow, p o w d e r y grains in the center of a flower. A plant's male sex cells, they are transferred to the female plant parts by means of w i n d , insects or animal pollinators, to fertilize t h e m a n d create seeds.

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potbound. See r o o t b o u n d .

rootbound (or potbound). T h e c o n d i t i o n of a plant that has been confined to a container too long, its roots having been forced to wrap around themselves a n d even swell o u t of the container.

Successful transplanting or repotting requires untangling a n d t r i m m i n g away some of the m a t t e d roots.

root zone. T h e area that the roots of a given plant currently o c c u p y or can be expected to spread to w h e n mature. Water a n d m u l c h are most effectively applied to the soil surface over the root zone.

seed leaf. As a seed sprouts, the first leaves to appear are the seed leaves. Usually r o u n d or broad, these leaves eventually fall off the plant. T h e next leaves, appearing above the seed leaves, are the true leaves.

succession planting. T h e practice of p r o m p t l y replacing f o o d crops that have passed peak production w i t h seeds or transplants of a different crop. M o s t effective in raised beds where the soil is rich enough to support several crops over a season, it maximizes

production in a limited space.

sucker. A n e w g r o w i n g shoot. U n d e r g r o u n d plant roots p r o d u c e suckers to form n e w stems a n d spread by means of these suckering roots to form large plantings, or colonies. T o m a t o plants produce a sucker in the crotch of the m a i n stem and a leaf. T h i s sucker will g r o w into a side branch, m a k n g the plant very bushy.

thinning. T h e process of r e m o v i n g extra sprouts f r o m a single p l a n t i n g o f a p i n c h o f seeds o f n e w l y g e r m i n a t e d seedlings t o create sufficient space for the remaining o n e to g r o w and mature.

transplant. A y o u n g plant that is mature e n o u g h to be planted outdoors in a garden b e d or decorative container.

true leaves. T h e second set of leaves that appear on a y o u n g seedling.

T h e y resemble the leaves of the species.

variegated. H a v i n g various colors or color patterns. Usually refers to plant foliage that is streaked, edged, blotched, or m o t t l e d w i t h a contrasting color, often green w i t h cream or white.

vermiculite. A natural mineral that, g r o u n d up and heated to over 2,000° F, expands into a lightweight, water-absorbent material ideal for soil mix.