The

Wilderness

Long-Term

Survival

Academy

GUIDE

Published by GLOBAL BROTHER.

© 2024 Global Brother SRL. All rights reserved.

GLOBAL BROTHER is a trademark of Global Brother SRL.

No part of this book may be reproduced or used in any manner without the prior written permission of the

copyright owner, except for the use of brief quotations in a book review.

1

Table of Contents

Disclaimer ................................................................................................................ 4

Part I: FUNDAMENTALS .......................................................................................... 7

Packing 101: Preparing Your Survival Backpack ........................................................... 8

How to Find Your Way Out of the Wild ....................................................................... 12

How to Signal for Help ............................................................................................. 14

Part II: SHELTER ................................................................................................... 16

How to Choose the Best Location for Your Shelter ..................................................... 17

5 Types of Tarp Shelters ........................................................................................... 19

The Earth Shelter..................................................................................................... 23

Natural Shelters to Look for in the Wild ..................................................................... 26

How to Build an Underground Shelter ....................................................................... 28

The 1-Month Shelter from Alone ............................................................................... 31

The Forever Shelter ................................................................................................. 35

Part III: WATER ..................................................................................................... 41

How to Find Drinking Water in the Wild ..................................................................... 42

How to purify water in the wild ................................................................................. 46

How to get water from plants ................................................................................... 50

Part IV: FIRE ........................................................................................................ 52

How to start a fire even in the rain ............................................................................. 53

How to Start a Fire in the Wild .................................................................................. 55

The Fire That (Almost) Never Ends (Self-feeding Fire).................................................. 61

The Smokeless Fire ................................................................................................. 63

Swedish Fire ........................................................................................................... 65

Teepee Fire ............................................................................................................. 68

Keyhole fire ............................................................................................................. 70

Star Fire .................................................................................................................. 72

Lean-to-Fire ............................................................................................................ 73

Upside-Down Fire ................................................................................................... 74

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Trench Fire .............................................................................................................. 75

PART V: FOOD ..................................................................................................... 76

How To Make and Set Traps for Small Game .............................................................. 77

Fishing in the Wild ................................................................................................... 85

How To Make a Wilderness Smokehouse .................................................................. 88

How to Make a Wild Fridge ....................................................................................... 90

7 Edible Plants You Should Forage for and Their Poisonous Lookalikes ........................ 92

12 Edible Fruit Bushes and Trees and Their Poisonous Lookalikes ............................... 96

7 Edible Mushrooms You Should Forage and Their Poisonous Lookalikes .................. 102

The Best Trees to Tap for Food and Water ................................................................ 107

How to Cook in the Wild ........................................................................................ 110

PART VI: FIRST AID AND REMEDIES IN THE WILD .................................................. 112

How to Deal with Extreme Situations ...................................................................... 113

How to Make a Tourniquet ...................................................................................... 116

How to Make a Splint from Natural Materials ........................................................... 119

Infections in the Wild: What to Do .......................................................................... 121

Wild Aspirin: Making Medicine from White Willow .................................................... 124

The First Aid Plant That Can Stop Bleeding in Seconds ............................................. 126

Cattail Gel – Nature’s Anesthetic ............................................................................ 128

PART VII: WILD SKILLS ........................................................................................ 130

The Only 5 Knots You Need to Know in The Wild ....................................................... 131

How to Find Toilet Paper in the Wild ........................................................................ 137

The First Thing You Should Do If You Come Face to Face with a Bear ......................... 140

How to Make Yourself Invisible in the Wild ............................................................... 144

How to Make Weapons in the Wild.......................................................................... 146

How to Use Your Clothes to Survive ........................................................................ 149

How to Make Your Own Containers in the Wild ........................................................ 152

How to Make a Raft ............................................................................................... 157

3

Disclaimer

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not a substitute for professional survival or prevent any disease or medical

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4

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6

Part I:

FUNDAMENTALS

7

Packing 101: Preparing Your

Survival Backpack

Packing a survival backpack is not just about gathering items; it’s about creating a carefully selected kit that could save your life in the wilderness. Each item should serve a specific purpose, ensuring you’re prepared for various scenarios.

Many people fall into the trap of overloading their backpacks. Online guides and videos often recommend carrying far more than necessary, which can lead to an overloaded backpack. This excess weight can limit your ability to travel long distances or, worse, strain your back. In the wilderness, staying light and mobile is crucial to your success and safety.

A general rule to follow is that your loaded backpack should not exceed 20% of your body weight. For instance, if you weigh 180 pounds (80 kilograms), your pack should not weigh more than 36 pounds (16 kilograms). One way to keep your pack light is by limiting the clothing you bring. Stick to essentials such as woolen socks, base layers, and a rain poncho. Wearing your warmest clothes, instead of packing them, will save space and weight.

You might be surprised to learn how little you actually need. If you know the Alone show, then you might know that Nicole survived for 57 days in the cold, rainy wilderness of Vancouver Island, with just 10 items. The key to survival is to adapt to different conditions and learn to improvise with what’s around you. That’s why it’s important to focus on multifunctional tools in your kit, which can serve multiple purposes in the wild.

Before you begin packing, invest in a solid, heavy-duty backpack. Look for one that is waterproof, made of durable materials, and features good stitching. Avoid cheap, flimsy backpacks that may not hold up in tough conditions. Once you’ve chosen your backpack, think carefully about how you organize it. Distribute the weight evenly to prevent strain on

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your back or shoulders, and ensure the load is balanced properly so it will not affect your stability.

Grouping similar items together is a smart strategy. Categorizing your gear will help you find specific items quickly. Use the pockets and compartments on your backpack for priority items like a compass, flashlight, water bottle, whistle, or bear spray. These should be easily accessible at all times. Remember, you’ll be moving around a lot with your backpack, so secure all items on the outside of your bag, to prevent them from shifting or falling off during travel. The last thing you want is to lose an essential tool along the way.

The most important item to pack is a strong, lightweight tarp. While some recommend taking a tent, even the lightest ones are heavier and less versatile than a tarp. A tarp can be used to set up a shelter quickly, insulate a more durable structure, or collect water. Its compact size and multifunctionality make it an essential item. If you want to learn more about building shelters with tarps, check out the second part of this guide, which presents many shelter options.

Another critical item is a sleeping bag. No matter where you are, nights in the wilderness can be cold, even during summer. Every contestant on survival shows like Alone carried a sleeping bag, and for good reason - it’s indispensable. Pair it with a space blanket, which is compact, lightweight, and heat-reflective. Space blankets are windproof, waterproof, and can be folded down to take up minimal space in your pack.

Storing and purifying water is another top priority. A lightweight water pouch is ideal because it can be folded when empty, saving space. Consider packing water filtration tablets as well. These are an excellent way to purify water quickly while you set up a more permanent filtration system at camp.

Fire-starting is one of the most important skills you’ll need in the wilderness. A ferro rod is the most reliable tool for this task. Unlike lighters or matches, it doesn’t rely on fuel and works even when wet or in windy conditions. It’s compact, durable, and capable of starting thousands of fires. While carrying lighters as backups is a good idea, a ferro rod should be your primary fire-starting tool.

A good survival knife is another must-have item. Choose a knife that is comfortable to hold, not too heavy, and made from high-quality steel. A pocketknife or a multitool are other options to the survival knife, which some prefer for their lightweight and versatility. A small axe or a hatchet, made of stainless or carbon steel, would be a great addition, serving as a multipurpose tool for chopping trees, building

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your shelter, self-defense, clearing vegetation, field dressing game, and even digging or clearing snow or ice. For precision tasks, a folding handsaw is highly recommended. It’s safer and more efficient for smaller tasks and provides cleaner cuts than an axe.

Navigation tools are essential. A compass is reliable and doesn’t depend on batteries or internet connectivity. Paired with a map, it ensures you stay on course even in remote areas.

Paracord is a must-have for any survival backpack. Its composite nature, durability

and versatility make it invaluable. It’s made up

of seven or more inner strands surrounded by

a woven shell and you can remove those

strands and use them individually if you need

a smaller cord, or you can unravel the shell if

you need very fine strands. Because of how

it’s made, it’s basically a rope that has

extreme durability and is very strong. You can

use it to secure your gear, build shelters and traps, make an emergency splint, turn it into a fishing line, make an improvised tourniquet, use it for climbing. Opt for 550 paracord, which has a breaking strength of 550 pounds, and bring 50 to 100 feet (15.25 – 30.5 meters) to cover any needs without adding unnecessary bulk.

Cooking and food preparation are also critical. Apart from all the plants and mushrooms you can forage for food, it’s also important to have all you need to catch a good source of protein, that is why a fishing kit would be of great help. You don’t need a rod, only a small kit with the essentials and a gill net. For

the kit, make sure you include a few

hooks, fishing line, bobbers, and

swivels. You can improvise weights in

the field. For cooking, a foldable pot or lightweight cast-iron pan works well over an open flame. After you set up

camp you will also start cooking. But

you should take some food with you to

give you a head start. You can take with

you some pemmican, which is a long-lasting, high-calorie food made from fat and berries, or you can opt for pre-packed energy bars, freeze-dried meals, trail mix, high-energy bars, and soup mixes. You can also get emergency ratios or MREs. These have sturdy packaging, cram in a lot of calories and nutrients in a small package and can withstand extreme temperatures.

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Pack a small medical kit with basic supplies like disinfectant, a tourniquet, pressure dressing, band-aids of different sizes and shapes, and tools like scissors, tweezers, scalpel, teasing needles, and forceps for wound care.

Hand warmers are optional but can provide extra comfort in cold conditions. They are disposable packages that you can insert inside your gloves to give you more heat. There are different types, some are activated once exposed to air, others when a

metal disc inside is snapped. Once activated, they will provide heat for 4 to 10 hours. It’s not really important what type you choose, it’s more important to get the lightest available.

Lighting is another consideration - choose a headlamp for hands-free illumination. Flashlights are good too, but a headlamp gives you mobility. You put it on, and your hands are always free, and the light will shine in the direction you’re looking in. Choose one that has a broader field of light and a bigger battery range.

Another item you need is a whistle. You can use it in case you’re stranded and need help, but you can also use it to deter animals. The loud noise startles wildlife and scares them off. Keep it in a pocket or a compartment that’s easily accessible, or simply attach it to the exterior of your backpack.

Something else you should get yourself is bear spray if you’re in bear country. It’s important to know how to avoid an encounter with a bear, but as a last resort, you can use this efficient spray. Most of them contain capsaicin, a chemical that’s found in chili peppers. The canister releases a cloud of spray to a distance of up to 30 feet (9 meters) and when the bear walks into the spray, its eyes and skin will sting, and it will be difficult for it to breathe. Make sure you don’t spray it on yourself or your gear! Have it on hand – clip it to your backpack so it’s easy to reach in case of a close encounter.

You should pack a change of clothes as well. The clothes you’re wearing could get soaked, ripped, or damaged. But since your space in the backpack is limited, pack only essential items and narrow it down to the most vital ones. Try to choose items that are multipurpose and can be worn in different weather conditions. Pack socks, base layers, insulating layers like a fleece jacket and a raincoat, and a spare pair of pants. Invest in a good quality pair of boots and break them in before you go out into the wilderness.

Finally, always have your backpack ready. Emergencies are unpredictable, and you may not have time to pack when the need arises. The best time to prepare is immediately after returning from a trip, so you can restock and organize your gear, and consider keeping an emergency backpack in your vehicle as well.

By following these guidelines and staying prepared, your backpack will become a reliable tool for navigating the challenges of the wilderness.

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How to Find Your Way Out of

the Wild

Becoming lost in the wilderness is a situation that no one expects, yet it can happen even to the most experienced adventurers. This chapter focuses on how to safely navigate your way back to civilization should you ever find yourself lost. While the media often dramatizes such scenarios, it’s worth noting that people rarely lose their way entirely in the wild. When it does happen, it is often the result of small wrong decisions made along the way.

Before heading into the wilderness, always review your itinerary, check trail conditions for closures or hazards, and, most importantly, inform someone of your plans and when you expect to return. Despite careful preparation, even seasoned explorers can find themselves disoriented. If this happens to you, there are steps to take that can significantly improve your chances of finding your way back.

The first step is to stop, breathe, and count to ten. Stress can cause tunnel vision, making it easy to miss obvious clues such as trail markers or familiar landmarks. Take a moment to calm your mind and look around carefully. You may suddenly notice that you are already on the trail or see something that gives you a hint about your location. Pay attention to trail markers, footprints, signs, or distinctive natural features that stand out. Your ears can be just as valuable as your eyes. Stay quiet for a moment and listen for helpful sounds such as people talking, cars on a nearby road, flowing water, or other environmental cues. These auditory signals can provide vital information about your surroundings and help orient you.

The sun is a natural navigational tool that has guided humans for thousands of years. By observing the direction and length of shadows, you can get a rough sense of your bearings. For instance, the sun rises in the east and sets in the west. If you are hiking in the morning and your shadow falls directly to your left, you are likely heading north. However, this method offers only an approximation and becomes more difficult to use near noon or on cloudy days.

For a more precise method, you can create a sun compass. Find a straight stick about two to three feet (0.9 meters) long and push it vertically into the ground. Mark the tip of its shadow with an “X” in the dirt. After 20 minutes, mark the new shadow tip with another “X.” Draw a line between the two marks to establish an east-west line. Then, draw a perpendicular line through the midpoint of this line to create a north-south axis. This simple tool can help you navigate with much greater accuracy.

As you begin to move, it’s important to mark your path to avoid walking in circles. Make notches on trees, arrange stones in distinctive patterns, or leave other noticeable markers that cannot be easily removed by weather or wildlife. These signs will serve as a breadcrumb trail that allows you to keep track of where you’ve been.

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Rivers and streams are natural guides

that can lead you back to civilization.

Water sources often flow toward

populated areas. If you can find a

stream or river, follow it downstream.

To locate a body of water, look for

areas of lower elevation or climb to a

high vantage point to survey the

surrounding terrain. Large bodies of

water, such as rivers and lakes, may

become visible from this perspective.

In drier environments, greener trees

and vegetation often indicate the

presence of water, even if it’s just a small stream that eventually leads to a larger one.

Observing animal behavior can also help you find water. Animals travel daily to water sources along well-worn paths. Tracks, droppings, and other signs of animal activity can point you in the right direction. Once you locate water, it may also lead you to trails or other signs of human activity.

If you hear voices or other noises but cannot determine their direction, shouting can help establish contact. An emergency whistle is even better for this purpose. A whistle carries farther than the human voice and requires much less effort. Most emergency whistles produce about 120 decibels, which would be louder than yelling, and are universally understood as a call for help. Blow three short blasts to signal distress and take a moment to listen for a response before trying again.

If no one responds and you remain unsure of your location, consider retracing your steps. However, this should only be done if you are absolutely certain of the way you came or can see your footprints clearly. Follow your original path back to the last familiar location. If you are unsure, it’s best to stay put. Search and rescue teams are trained to trace your steps and are more likely to find you if you remain in one area rather than moving unpredictably.

To increase your chances of being found, combine all these methods thoughtfully. Always stay calm and think carefully about your next steps. Remaining level-headed and using your surroundings effectively, can make all the difference. While waiting for help or planning your next move, it’s crucial to take care of your basic needs. Stay warm, drink water, and eat food. Techniques for managing these needs will be covered in other sections of this guide.

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How to Signal for Help

Knowing how to signal for help is one of the most important survival skills to master before venturing into the wilderness, especially if you’re venturing alone. If you’ve been missing for some time, and you took the precaution of informing someone of your plans, authorities are likely already searching for you. Effective signaling not only makes their job easier but also reduces the time you’ll need to survive on your own.

Whenever you set foot into the wild, you place yourself in potentially dangerous situations. To maximize your chances of survival, it is essential to carry the right tools for signaling and to have backups in case your primary options fail. Proper preparation can make all the difference in an emergency.

A sturdy knife is the most important tool to carry into the wilderness. Beyond its many uses for survival and self-defense, it can be instrumental in crafting items for signaling. A lighter is another essential piece of equipment. As a backup, always pack a Ferro rod, which remains reliable even when wet or after prolonged use. Both tools are compact and inexpensive yet invaluable in emergencies. Fire, for instance, is one of the most effective ways to alert rescuers to your position. Three fires arranged in a triangle, or a straight line form the universal distress signal. Adding green vegetation can create thick white smoke, while burning rubber or plastic produces black smoke that is easier to spot and clearly indicates a human-made signal.

A flashlight is another indispensable item. To signal for help using a flashlight use the 3-burst universal distress pattern and keep repeating. The rhythmic pattern will set your beam apart from naturally occurring or other human-made light sources. If you’re in a vehicle, use your brights to signal the same 3-burst alarm. Keep in mind that it will drain your battery.

A mirror is a useful tool for signaling during daylight hours. By reflecting sunlight, it can create a highly visible beacon that draws attention. A watch crystal can also work, although it is less effective than a dedicated reflective surface.

For more remote expeditions, consider packing flares. These are visible over long distances and can double as fire starters or even deterrents for predators in certain situations.

An emergency whistle is another low-tech but highly effective tool. This inexpensive item can be heard from a considerable distance and is particularly useful at night when signaling options become limited. When you blow the whistle, do so in three short consecutive blasts since 3 is a universal distress signal. This also applies to gunfire, if you happen to be using a firearm to signal for help.

If stranded without any of these tools, improvisation is key. Searchers are likely to conduct aerial sweeps, as this allows them to cover large areas quickly. Use whatever materials

14

are available - leaves, sticks, or any human-made objects - that contrast with the ground color.

Arrange them in groups of three, following a triangle pattern, to indicate distress. For aerial visibility, ensure your signals are at least 10 feet (3 meters) in length.

You can also use specific symbols to communicate messages to rescuers. A large “V” signals that assistance is required, while an “X” indicates that you are unable to proceed. Additionally, an arrow can be used to point rescuers in the direction you’re heading. These visual cues can significantly improve the chances of being located and rescued.

While the hope is that you’ll never need to use these skills, wilderness can be dangerous, and unexpected things can happen. Always take precautions before heading outdoors. Inform others of your plans and expected return time, and ensure your pack includes all the tools necessary to survive and signal for help. Proper preparation could one day save your life.

15

Part II:

SHELTER

16

How to Choose the Best

Location for Your Shelter

One of the most critical decisions to make when in the wilderness is where to build your survival shelter. This decision, while challenging, can greatly influence your chances of survival. The location of your shelter can determine how safe, warm, and protected you will be, making it an essential factor in any survival scenario.

When selecting a shelter location, elevation and terrain should be your first considerations. Higher ground is ideal as it ensures you remain on dry land, safe from the dangers of unexpected flooding. Avoid valleys where water can collect and create dangerous conditions. However, choosing a location that is too high, such as an exposed peak, can subject you to cold temperatures and strong winds, both of which can deplete your energy and compromise your shelter's effectiveness.

The orientation of your shelter is another crucial factor. The direction it faces can significantly affect the amount of sunlight and warmth it receives. The sun rises in the east and sets in the west, so positioning your shelter to catch the morning sunlight can provide much-needed warmth after a cold night. At the same time, take note of wind patterns in the area. Wind can come from various directions, influenced by natural features such as mountains and valleys. During the day, warm air rises from valleys, creating a breeze, while at night, cooler air descends. Understanding these patterns can help you orient your shelter to minimize wind exposure, which can bring in rain or smoke and drain warmth from your shelter. Sealing off the sides facing the wind will provide additional protection.

Access to water is essential for survival, but its proximity to your shelter must be carefully considered. While it may seem practical to build close to a water source, this increases the risk of flooding and encounters with wildlife, which often frequent these areas. A safer approach is to position your shelter uphill and at a walking distance from a water source. This allows easy access without placing you in the path of animals like bears or other predators. Avoid animal trails altogether, as they are frequently used by wildlife and can lead to dangerous encounters.

Your surroundings play a significant role in choosing a shelter location. Even if the site appears ideal - high enough, close to water, and on flat, dry ground - there may still be hazards overhead. There are certain things you should be especially wary of and that’s the trees around you. Widowmakers are deadfalls that haven’t fallen yet. When a bad wind kicks up or when trees and branches become loaded with snow widowmakers can come down and seriously injure anyone that has the misfortune of being under them. Such accidents can and do happen with more regularity than you might imagine. In the winter,

17

dead trees can usually be distinguished

from live ones by the bark and branches.

The bark will start to peel back and

expose the wood underneath. This

process happens faster on the smaller

branches but can take years to occur on

the main trunk. Look for signs of dying

limbs that are falling off, a large number

of dead and brown needles in case of

conifers, or signs of insect infestation

and large fungal growth. Also, look for

loose branches. Sometimes branches will buckle without completely severing. Sometimes branches will break completely off but become lodged in other branches and not fall. These are extremely dangerous because they can be a ticking bomb above your head.

Always thoroughly inspect the area for other natural hazards before settling. Be on the lookout for signs of existing wildlife activity, such as wasp nests or bear dens, which can pose significant risks. If you notice any indication that the area is already occupied by animals, it is best to continue searching for a safer location.

Choosing the right shelter location has long-term benefits. A well-selected site eliminates the need for constant relocation, allowing you to focus on other survival priorities. A reliable shelter location offers stability and a safe place to rest, even for extended periods. However, always remain mindful of the wildlife around you. The wilderness is their home, and avoiding interference is crucial to staying safe. Never place your shelter on visible game trails, as these are used regularly by animals. While game trails can be useful for setting traps, your shelter should be far enough away to avoid unwanted encounters with predators.

By carefully considering elevation, orientation, water access, surrounding hazards, and wildlife behavior, you can choose the best location for your survival shelter. This decision will lay the foundation for a safer and more secure stay in the wilderness.

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5 Types of Tarp Shelters

A tarp is one of the most versatile tools you can bring into the wilderness. Lightweight, compact, multifunctional, and affordable, it can be used to create a variety of shelters that provide immediate protection from the elements. Exposure to cold and rain for just a few hours can have health consequences, so knowing how to quickly set up a reliable short-term shelter is essential. This chapter covers five types of tarp shelters that every outdoor enthusiast should know by heart.

The first shelter is the stealth tarp shelter, a low-profile structure ideal for windy conditions or situations where you want to remain inconspicuous. While it doesn’t offer much headroom or space, it provides excellent stability and can include a groundsheet for added comfort. To build one, choose a secluded area with trees and thick foliage. Start by creating a ridgeline with cordage tied between two trees at about waist height. Attach one edge of the tarp to the ridgeline, ensuring the other edge reaches the ground. Secure the lower edge to the ground with stakes and repeat the process for the sides, pulling the tarp tight to prevent flapping in the wind. At the front, bring the sides toward the center to form a protective barrier against the wind. Once the structure is secure, tidy up the loose tarp on the ground to create a neat and functional shelter. For added camouflage, cover the tarp with fallen leaves or other natural debris.

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The tipi-tarp shelter is a great option for hot summer days as it allows for better airflow compared to the stealth shelter. It offers more headroom, making it more comfortable to sit inside, though taller individuals might find legroom slightly limited. To set it up, start with the same ridgeline as the stealth shelter. Keep one toggle of the tarp on the ridge line and take out the stakes. Next, loosen the ridge line a bit, raise it to about head height, and pull the sides in front to create a triangle or tipi shape. Then go in the back and tightly secure the back with stakes to the ground, tuck the ground sheet under, and do the same on the other side. Once everything is secure, adjust the groundsheet, and the shelter is ready for use.

The A-frame tarp shelter is a classic for a reason. Its simplicity makes it one of the easiest shelters to construct. Begin by running a ridgeline between two trees at chest height. Drape the tarp evenly over the ridgeline, forming a symmetrical A shape. Secure the four corners of the tarp to the ground with stakes. If needed, adjust the ridgeline height for

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better wind resistance. For colder conditions, lowering the A-frame closer to the ground reduces exposure to the elements. While this design doesn’t include a groundsheet, it performs exceptionally well in heavy rain and offers ample interior space.

The tarp tent shelter mimics the shape of a traditional tent and is particularly effective in windy and rainy conditions. Unlike other tarp shelters, it doesn’t require a ridgeline. Lay out the tarp and stake down the center point on two sides, then fold one side of the tarp over the other. Then find the second tie-up point of the part that’s above - pull the corner inside that point and then do the same with the opposite corner.

Now you can use a pole or even a stick that’s not sharp enough to destroy your tarp. Push the pole underneath the tarp in the middle and push the tarp up until the pole is vertical. At this point, take the 2 sides tie some cordage, and pull each of them back with 2 stakes.

Attach some cord to the middle tie-up point and pull so that you have the right angle so that the front is tight. The final step is to adjust the ground sheet to create a neat, enclosed space.

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The plow point shelter is another highly practical option, offering plenty of space and flexibility to adjust the structure based on wind direction. To set it up, tie one corner of the tarp to a tree at head height using paracord. Stake down the opposite corner diagonally across from the tree. Pull the tarp’s sides outward to form an A-frame or triangular shape, securing them with stakes. This shelter is wind-resistant and allows for quick adjustments if the wind changes direction - simply reposition the tie-up points to orient the back of the shelter into the wind. For additional protection, stake down the edges of the sides or place a second tarp on the ground.

Each of these shelters can be set up in less than five minutes with practice. By familiarizing yourself with these designs ahead of time, you can ensure a comfortable and secure shelter no matter the conditions. Whether you’re facing wind, rain, or the need for discretion, these tarp shelters offer versatile and reliable options for short-term survival in the wild.

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The Earth Shelter

An earth shelter is an incredible survival structure that you can build using primarily dirt and materials found around your environment. It’s simple yet effective, offering excellent insulation and protection from the elements. This chapter will guide you step-by-step through the process of constructing your own earth shelter in the wilderness.

Start by locating a large, downed tree. Almost any tree will work, as long as it is sturdy and large enough to provide structural support. Prepare the ground on one side of the tree by clearing away all debris, including branches and leaves, to create a smooth surface. Once the area is clear, pat the ground down to ensure it is even and firm.

Next, gather the materials needed

to create the shelter’s frame.

You’ll need several logs, so this

step may take some time. Start by

cutting four logs at about knee

height to serve as vertical

supports. Carve the tops of these

logs to create flat surfaces where

the roof logs will rest. Anchor

these vertical logs into the ground

by burying their bases slightly.

Then, cut two longer logs - longer

than the intended roof dimensions

- and place them horizontally

along the sides of the frame to stabilize it.

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Once the frame is in place, begin constructing the roof. Lay logs across the top as closely together as possible to minimize gaps. Secure these roof logs with cordage, tying them to each other as well as to the frame. This will ensure that the roof remains stable and strong against wind and weather.

With the frame and roof complete, it’s time to build the walls. For this, you’ll need more logs or branches, cut to approximately the same height as the shelter. Depending on what’s available in your surroundings, you can use smaller branches for this step, but you may need to trim them further to fit properly. The goal is to cover the walls as thoroughly as possible, creating a barrier that prevents rain, snow, and cold air from entering. Remember to leave an opening for the door.

Before moving on to the door, focus on insulating the interior. Lay a tarp across the floor and gather materials like pine needles, leaves, or long grass to use as insulation. Spread these materials evenly across the tarp to create a warm and comfortable floor.

Now, it’s time to further

insulate the roof. Look for

fallen trees and carefully

peel off large sections of

bark. Cover the roof with

these pieces of bark,

ensuring there are no gaps

where water could seep

through. This step is

essential for maintaining a

warm, dry interior and

keeping the shelter

comfortable, even on cold nights.

To complete the insulation, shovel dirt around the sides of the shelter, filling in any cracks or gaps. This additional layer of dirt will further protect the interior from drafts and moisture, creating a snug, weatherproof environment.

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The next task is constructing the door.

Build a small frame similar to the one

used for the shelter, using cordage to

secure everything together. Attach

smaller branches to the frame one by

one, replicating the roof’s construction method. For added

sturdiness, tie additional branches

diagonally across the inside of the

door. Once the door is complete,

attach it to the shelter using cordage

as hinges. Depending on your

preference, you can position the

hinges to allow the door to open from either side.

The final step is applying the last layer of insulation: dried leaves. Spread as many leaves as you can find across the bark-covered roof, ensuring every corner is well-covered. This layer not only improves insulation but also serves as camouflage, making the shelter blend into its surroundings. Depending on your environment, you can enhance the camouflage with green leaves or moss for added stealth.

If you have extra time and materials, consider adding a small perimeter fence around your shelter. Use large logs and cordage to create a barrier that encircles your “property.” This addition can make the space feel more secure and can serve as a deterrent for wildlife or predators. It also provides a pleasant area to relax and enjoy your surroundings, turning your shelter into a true wilderness retreat.

And there you have it: a sturdy, insulated earth shelter that will protect you from the elements and offer a cozy refuge in the wild. With some effort and the right materials, this shelter can be a long-term survival solution.

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Natural Shelters to Look

for in the Wild

Surviving in the wilderness often requires quick thinking and efficient use of available resources. One of the easiest ways to conserve energy and materials when building a survival shelter is by taking advantage of the natural landscape. Using what’s already in place allows for a more discreet shelter, which can be crucial if you’re hiding or trying to avoid drawing attention. Additionally, finding a ready-made shelter frees up time and energy that you can redirect toward more pressing survival tasks, such as finding food or signaling for help.

When thinking of natural shelters,

caves and rock outcroppings often

come to mind. These can provide

excellent protection from the elements, but they come with risks.

Many animals, including bears and

wolves, also use these spaces as

shelters, particularly to protect their

young while hunting. Before settling

into such a spot, carefully inspect the

area for animal tracks or other signs of

activity. Encountering a protective

mother bear searching for her cubs is the last thing you want in a survival situation.

If you find a suitable cave or rock overhang, avoid building a fire inside. The heat can cause the rock to expand and break, creating a dangerous situation. Instead, build your fire outside. This not only ensures your safety but can also deter curious animals and serve as a signal for rescuers. If staying hidden is your goal, consider using an "invisible fire" technique, which is discussed in another section of this guide.

Another natural shelter option is a

coyote den. Coyotes are

widespread across the United

States, and they often create dens

in burrows beneath fallen trees or

large roots. While these spaces are

small, they can offer temporary

protection from the elements. If

needed, you can enlarge the den

without expending much energy

since the coyote has already done

most of the work. However,

approach these shelters cautiously. Coyotes are generally wary of humans, but a mother protecting her pups can act unpredictably. Late winter is their usual pupping season, but

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this can vary. Additionally, be vigilant for snakes that might also use these dens. A bite from a venomous snake could be fatal in a survival scenario.

For those on the move and needing temporary

shelter, conifer trees like pines, firs, and spruces

can provide reliable protection. These trees

naturally shed water and snow efficiently,

keeping the area near their base relatively dry,

even during heavy storms. Shelter close to the

trunk for the best protection, and consider

adding a tarp or poncho above you for additional

cover. Laying down debris like leaves or dry grass

beneath you will provide extra insulation and

warmth.

If stranded in a desert, the lack of large

trees or natural cover can make finding

a proper shelter challenging. In such

cases, seek out the deepest trench or

depression available and cover it with a

tarp or similar material. If no tarp is

available, digging into the ground and

covering yourself with soil can help.

The earth’s consistent temperature

offers protection from the sharp drop in

temperature during desert nights. As in

other environments, adding a layer of

debris underneath you will improve insulation and keep you warmer.

When searching for shelter, always use

common sense to assess potential risks. A

fallen tree can provide you with temporary

protection from the elements but ensure it is

stable and not at risk of collapsing further and

potentially injuring you. Similarly, avoid

sheltering on steep hillsides where loose rocks

or snow could pose a danger.

Keeping an eye out for natural shelters as you

move through the wilderness can make a

significant difference in conserving energy and

staying safe. These shelters provide essential

protection without requiring extensive

resources or effort, ensuring you can focus on other critical survival tasks.

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How to Build an

Underground Shelter

An underground shelter can provide warmth, protection, and comfort in the wilderness, especially during colder months. This type of shelter, equipped with a bed and a fireplace, is practical for long-term survival scenarios. Here’s how to construct one using available materials and techniques.

Begin by selecting a large, flat area that is about 2.5 feet (75 centimeters) deep and suitable for digging. The ideal dimensions for the shelter will be approximately the size of an emergency blanket. A location near a sturdy tree works well, as the roots can help stabilize the walls of your shelter. Once you’ve found the right spot, start digging at the base of the tree to create a space that is 4 feet (120 centimeters) wide and 6-7 feet long (180-210 centimeters). This size is enough to fit a comfortable bed and to heat the space efficiently with a small rocket stove fireplace, which will be explained later. As you dig, pack the removed dirt into any open pockets to form solid, stable walls around the perimeter.

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Next, construct the roof of the shelter. Gather branches from the surrounding area and secure them around a tarp, tying them firmly in place. Use the dirt removed during digging to build up the walls higher, adding structural integrity. At the entrance, place logs at the top and cover them with clay to further reinforce the wall. This structure will create two levels within the shelter. The first level serves as a hallway, approximately 1 foot (30 centimeters) deep and 1 foot (30 centimeters) wide, while the second level, the bed, should be 1 foot (30 centimeters) deep and 3 feet (90 centimeters) wide.

Pour a small amount of water over the bed area to level it out, ensuring a smooth surface. Use your hands to spread the clay evenly, smoothing it with a circular motion to eliminate bumps that could cause discomfort. Add more logs at the edges of the shelter and cover them with clay to secure the walls further.

Water seepage is an inevitable issue when building an underground shelter, especially in clay-rich areas. While the seepage may not be significant, it can create a soupy mess. To manage this, dig out a water sump at the lowest point of your hallway. Ensure the hallway is slightly sloped toward the sump so that any water naturally collects there. Once the water accumulates, you can bail it out with a nesting cup to keep the shelter dry overnight.

To make the shelter more comfortable, gather thin logs and lay them across the bottom of the hallway, covering the sump area. For the bed, spread twigs and small branches evenly over a plastic sheet, then layer more thin logs cut to match the length of the bed. These

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logs will form a sturdy bedframe. Cover the hallway and bed with the roof constructed earlier, and shovel dirt over it to elevate the roof above ground level. Seal the edges of the tarp where it meets the ground with additional soil to prevent heat from escaping. Block one of the entrances with logs and branches, covering them with soil and water to insulate the shelter and protect it from snow, rain, or animals. A poncho can serve as a makeshift door for the remaining entrance.

The next step is to build a fireplace inside the shelter. Dig a small tunnel through the wall just above the hallway level, then create a second pathway at a right angle to form a chimney. Use the clay you removed earlier to construct the chimney, leaving the top slightly open to allow smoke to escape. The fire is started at the base of the chimney, and the heat travels through the bottom hallway, warming the entire shelter.

Once completed, the underground shelter provides significant protection from the elements. The layered walls and insulated design help retain heat, keeping the space warm even in freezing temperatures. With a comfortable bed and a functional fireplace, the shelter becomes a safe haven in the wilderness.

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The 1-Month Shelter from

Alone

The 1-month shelter is a robust yet simple structure that can provide protection and warmth in the wilderness. Nicole built a version of this during her time on the Alone show, and it served her well for almost two months. With proper maintenance, this type of shelter can last much longer, making it an excellent choice for medium-term survival scenarios.

To begin, you’ll need long logs, trees, and tools to cut them to size. A few sturdy knots and either nails or wire will also be essential to secure the structure. Start by identifying two trees that are relatively close together. These will serve as the main supports for your shelter. Alternatively, if suitable trees are not available, you can construct two tripods to hold the horizontal logs in place.

The first step is to secure a long horizontal log between the two trees at about shoulder height. You can nail or tie the log to the trees, depending on the materials you have on hand. If using tripods, place one at each end of the log for stability. The second horizontal log will rest on the ground and should also be secured to the trees using strong knots. These two horizontal logs will form the foundation of your shelter.

With the frame in place, begin adding slanted logs to create the roof. Lean these logs against the upper horizontal log, ensuring they overlap slightly for better rainwater runoff.

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Keep adding logs until the entire roof slope is covered. This angled design will help shed rain efficiently and keep the interior dry.

Next, focus on the sides of the shelter. Cut additional logs to fit the height and length of the structure, then lean them vertically against the roof’s edge. A horizontal log on the ground can be used to anchor these side logs and prevent them from shifting.

Repeat this process on the opposite side to fully enclose the shelter.

Now, move to the back of the shelter. Add logs in a similar manner, leaving just enough space for you to slide inside.

Over time, you can insulate the shelter with natural debris such as leaves, grass, or pine needles. If you have a tarp, drape it over the roof to improve water resistance and potentially collect rainwater. For colder weather, consider adding a front wall and a door for added warmth and security.

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To build the door frame, dig two small holes in the ground and place two sturdy logs upright. Cover the bases with soil to secure them firmly in place. At the top, tie the doorframe logs to the shelter’s structure using rope. Fill the gaps on either side of the door with additional logs, securing them with cordage for stability.

The door itself can be made smaller if you’re concerned about larger predators, such as bears, entering the shelter. However, keeping a fire burning near the entrance will deter most animals, as fire is a universal deterrent in the wild. For added insulation, use large leaves, ferns, or branches to cover the shelter’s exterior. Filling gaps between the logs with mud or clay will make the structure even more weatherproof.

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This 1-month shelter is straightforward to construct, providing a safe and comfortable refuge. It can be adapted to suit different weather conditions or extended stays by adding more insulation and structural elements over time. Building it not only offers practical benefits but also deepens your connection with nature - a gift that’s truly invaluable.

Time spent in nature is one of the greatest things we can offer ourselves. Building this shelter not only provides a secure and comfortable refuge but also fosters a profound sense of accomplishment. Constructing something so practical and enduring in the wilderness is a reminder of the resilience and ingenuity we all possess. With each step of the process, from assembling the frame to insulating the walls, you may find a deeper connection to the natural world and a renewed appreciation for its resources.

Take the time to immerse yourself in the process, and let it be a rewarding experience. A well-built shelter can offer more than just protection - it becomes a testament to your ability to thrive in challenging conditions and adapt to your surroundings.

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The Forever Shelter

A forever shelter is a long-term survival structure designed to offer lasting protection and comfort in the wilderness. Built primarily from natural materials, it acts more or less like a cabin, only that it comes already insulated since it’s mostly underground. While constructing this shelter requires significant effort, its durability makes it well worth the time invested.

To begin, clear away all grasses, branches, and debris from the chosen site. Once the area is clean, outline the shelter by digging a square trench approximately 15 feet by 15 feet (4.5 meters by 4.5 meters) wide and 2 feet (0.6 meters) deep. This trench will serve as the foundation. Next, excavate the interior of the square to a depth of 2 feet (0.6 meters) initially. You then need to make the hole deeper. When it's done, it should be between your shoulder and head height. The easiest way to do this is to dig it out in sections. For example, you can start digging out the middle of the hole by using your shovel to slice and dig. Move your way back until

you have dug down another

2-3 feet (0.6-1 meters). You

should repeat this process

until you have dug down to

the appropriate depth. This

takes a lot of work, but

remember - this is for a

forever, long-term shelter.

Make sure to keep a ledge a

couple of feet up off the

bottom of the hole so that

you can climb out. This will also serve as the bed platform for your dwelling.

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The roof supports are critical to

the shelter’s stability. Find five

sturdy trees with a minimum

diameter of 10 inches (25

centimeters). Each tree should

be long enough to span the width

of the shelter and meet at the

center above the pit. Ensure that

fallen trees are not decayed

internally. Stripping the bark from

the trees using a draw knife will

help the wood retain moisture and extend its durability. If removing the bark is a bit too difficult, you can use a hatchet to carefully hack away at the ends, exposing the bark for easy stripping using a draw knife.

Once the five supports are

prepared, bring them to the hole

and begin assembling them. Start

by placing two support poles

opposite each other at an angle

where they can rest upon one

another. The angle should be

approximately 5-6 feet (1.5-1.8

meters) above the top of the hole.

If there is any overlapping wood,

trim off the excess using a saw.

Next, position the third support diagonally from the back corner to align with the two previously installed supports. Use

the fourth support to bridge the

gap, as this will offer a stable

surface to stand on while securing

the third support. Just like before,

trim any excess wood. Now angle

the fourth support outward from

the opposite rear corner, ensuring

it applies pressure against the

other three supports.

The fifth and final roof support

should be slanted downward, as this will serve as one of the entrance pillars. The tops of each support should converge at the center point

Next, you’ll need to tie-in the top supports. For this, you need to split a round piece of wood that matches the span between the front three supports at the top. Make sure it's as long as needed. Then, you will need your hand drill to create two holes on each end of

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the split wood. Finally, you can carve the round pegs and hammer them through the newly drilled holes. This will securely tie in the top supports.

Align the piece of wood you just drilled with the top of the rightmost support. Use the hand drill to create a hole through the support. You should repeat this process for the leftmost front support. Afterward, connect the wooden bracket to the support with hammered wooden pegs. Finally, trim the sharp corners to make sure the roof bracket sits flush with the supports.

Then, you have to create the frame for the entrance. For this you will need an additional tree of similar thickness to the roof supports. Make sure the length of the tree reaches from the bottom of the pit to the angled roof support. It's important to cut the angle of the pillar tree so that it fits snugly against the roof support. Use a hand drill to drill through this support and into the roof support, then secure them together with a wooden peg.

For the walls, you should best choose thick logs, as it should also be adequate support for the roof. Add another connection between the front angle roof supports. Begin by cutting two logs of sufficient length to span the distance between the center front support. Continue to drill holes into

each end of the support, as

well as the support it will be

attached to. Then, insert a

wooden peg into each hole

and firmly affix the support

to the angled beams

through hammering. For

added security, repeat the

same process applied to the

top of the roof supports.

Split a round piece of wood

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and drill holes into each side on both ends. You

should align it with the newly installed support

and drill through. Secure the supports by inserting

wooden pegs into the holes.

To make sure you have enough support for the roof

logs, you can perform the same action between

the central base roof support and the angled roof

support. If you need it, you can add a second beam inside. The ideal location would be in the space between the front and back roof supports.

To build the roof covering, begin by felling a number of trees measuring approximately 12-15 inches (30-38 centimeters) in diameter. These trees should be of sufficient length to span the entire hole you have excavated, in this instance, around 15 feet (4.5 meters) long. These will be stacked between the roof supports on either side.

Begin by carefully stacking the logs on the roof support, making sure they align with the angle of the supports. You need to minimize gaps in the roof corners, so start cutting the ends of the roof logs at an appropriate angle where they meet. You repeat this process for each side of the roof until it is fully sealed.

To seal the cracks between the logs, you

can shovel the dirt you dug from the hole

onto the roof. Don't hesitate to climb onto

the roof and use your hands to push the

mud into the cracks. Clay also works well.

You should repeat this process until the

entire roof is completely sealed.

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If you want to create a weatherproof seal, carefully cut squares of sod using a sharp machete. You place these squares on top of the dirt, mud, and clay that you have recently used to seal the roof. Just make sure to add a thick layer for maximum effectiveness.

To build the internal walls, you need to set up four internal supports that will be braced against the log roof. Make sure there is enough space between the support and the wall to fit the logs. Insert logs along the length of the wall into the gap between the dirt and wood supports you constructed.

For the door, get four logs with a

diameter of approximately 5-8

inches (13-20 centimeters). Cut

each end of the logs halfway

through, reaching a length of

about 5 inches (13

centimeters). This will allow for

interlocking when assembling.

Once you finish, the logs will

form a sturdy frame.

Next, you take additional logs and cut them lengthwise. Place them horizontally across the door frame with the flat side facing down. To secure them, use a handheld drill to create holes in the top and

bottom of the cut logs, aligning

them with the frame. Start

inserting wooden pegs into

these holes, firmly fastening the

logs to the frame.

To attach the door to your

shelter, drill a hole in the top

plate and the door's bottom.

Then, insert a wooden peg into

both the top plate and the door, allowing it to swing open and close smoothly.

Creating a front window that can open and close is a process similar to crafting the front door. Begin by measuring the window frame and cutting logs that fit snugly within the designated space. Use a hand drill to create holes on each end of the horizontal supports and on the sides of the vertical frame supports. Insert wooden pegs into the holes and firmly assemble the frame using a hammer. To secure the wood to the window frame, start splitting round logs and create a flat side. Drill corresponding holes on the top and bottom of the logs, aligning them with the frame, and then secure everything in place by hammering in wooden pegs. Take a moment to analyze the window and identify any gaps

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that need filling. Carefully select and cut pieces of wood that will fit snugly into these gaps. It's important to angle the ends of the wood so that they can buttress against the existing supports. This will ensure a secure and seamless fit.

Building a forever shelter requires patience and effort, but the result is a safe and durable home that will serve you well for extended periods in the wilderness.

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Part III:

WATER

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How to Find Drinking Water

in the Wild

Finding water in the wilderness is a basic survival skill you need to master. The most obvious sources are streams, rivers, and lakes. Animals always know where the water is, so try to check for wildlife trails and animal tracks and signs. Lush green vegetation is also a sign that water is probably close. Insects are also an indicator that there’s a water source not far away. Also watch where

the birds fly in the morning or

evening, as they’re usually going

toward water. Plus, when you’re

on the hunt for water, pause and

listen from time to time – you can

usually hear a stream of water in

the quiet woods from a great

distance. And don’t forget water

always flows downhill, so low

areas and valleys are your best

bet.

Another trick you can use is to look for small changes in the sky’s color. Usually, the sky directly over a source of water will look a bit bluer. And, early in the morning, low clouds and fog tend to gather over a body of water – another good sign to look for. A body of water reflects the sky differently than a thick forest, and the moisture in the air and temperature difference cause the fog.

If you find a muddy area, there is a great chance there’s groundwater. Try digging a hole about a foot deep and one foot in diameter and wait. Soon the hole will fill with water. It’s going to be muddy water, but you can always use one of the purification methods you’ll find in a different chapter in this Guide, to turn it into clean and drinkable water.

In case there’s snow or ice around, just melt it. But never eat it frozen, because this will reduce your body’s temperature and may cause dehydration. And if you can, try to purify it. Even snow and ice can be risky if not purified.

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Another important source of

drinking water is morning

dew. Dew forms on plants in

the early morning hours. You

can collect it if you tie a clean

cloth around your legs or

hands and walk through tall

grass, then squeeze the water

into a container and repeat the process. Just make sure you’re not collecting dew from poisonous plants.

Moss is another wonderful

source of fresh water. Moss

can act as a natural water

reservoir in the wild because

it absorbs and holds

moisture, often from rain,

dew, or nearby sources of

water. If you find moss that is

damp or wet, you can gently

squeeze it to extract the

water. While moss water is

generally safe in clean

environments, you should avoid moss growing in stagnant or polluted areas, as it may harbor harmful contaminants. Purifying the water, when possible, is always a good practice.

Something else you can do is

take advantage of the natural

process of plant

transpiration. This is the

process by which the plant

carries moisture from the root

to the underside of the leaves.

From there, the water gets

vaporized into the air, but you

can catch it before that

happens. All you have to do is tie a plastic bag around a tree branch with a lot of leaves. Try to do this in the morning. Next, place a small rock in the bag to weigh it down so the water has a place to collect. During the day the plant transpires and produces moisture and instead of vaporizing into the atmosphere, it will collect at the bottom of your bag. Again, don’t do this with a poisonous plant.

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Another way to collect

water in the wild is by

making an

underground still. For

this, you’re going to

need a plastic sheet,

something to dig, a

container, a drinking

tube, a rock, or some

dirt. Choose an area

that gets as much

sunlight as possible, then dig a hole similar to a bowl about 3 feet wide and 2 feet (0.5 – 1 meter) deep. Dig another small hole inside and place your container inside that. Now, attach the drinking tube inside the container. But if you don’t have one, just skip this step. Adding some fresh

leaves and branches on

the walls of the dug

hole will add to the

formation water. Cover

the entire hole with the

plastic sheet and use

rocks or some dirt to

keep it in place. Put a

small rock in the center

of the plastic sheet, so

that it hangs and forms an inverted cone over your container. After some time, you either use the drinking tube to drink the water, or you take out the container and use the water inside it. This method works because the moisture underground interacts with the heat from the sun and produces condensation, which collects on the plastic sheet. The cone that you just made simply directs the water from the condensation process into the container. A good underground still can produce up to one liter of water per day.

There’s another source of water in the wild that you can rely on – rainwater. You can collect by making a water cache. The easiest and most effective way to do this is using a tarp and a container. What’s great about this setup is that you can also use it as a shelter. Attach two corners to a higher point, about 4 to 5 feet (1.2 - 1.5 meters) above the ground. Next, use 2 more points to anchor it and fix the opposite two corners down, so they rest about 1 or 2 feet (0.5 – 1 meter) off the ground. On the lower part, use a weight or piece of cord to pull the center point between the two anchors down. This is where the water will flow, and this is where you will place your storage container. If you don’t have a container

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you can spare, you can

also anchor all 4

corners of your tarp

around trees or

branches a few feet off

the ground, then place

a small rock in the

center to create some

sort of depression and

wait for the water to

collect in the tarp.

Check out the other chapters inside this guide to find out about some other ingenious methods.

Lastly, while there are many sources of water in the wild, urine is not one of them. Despite what some so-called survivalists may claim, drinking urine will dehydrate you further and could make you seriously ill. It may provide a temporary reprieve, as urine is 95% water, but the remaining waste products can lead to kidney failure. If you follow the techniques in this guide, you will never have to consider such desperate measures.

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How to purify water in the

wild

If you’re stranded in the wilderness, one of your top priorities will be finding drinking water. The average human cannot survive longer than 3 days without water and that’s in ideal conditions. Once your body begins to dehydrate past a certain point, everything including movement and thinking becomes difficult, if not impossible. And even though you might be surrounded by water that doesn’t mean it’s safe to drink it. Fresh water from lakes, ponds, and streams can contain

harmful microorganisms like bacteria

and parasites that cause giardia,

dysentery, hepatitis, severe diarrhea,

and other conditions that can quickly

turn fatal.

The most reliable way to kill any

harmful organisms in water is by

boiling it. This method is simple and effective: bring the water to a rolling

boil for five minutes. This will destroy

all living microorganisms that might be

present.

However, there are times when starting a fire isn’t an option. In those cases, carrying a chemical purifier is a good backup. Iodine tablets are an effective solution: drop two tablets into a quart

of water, give it a good shake, and wait

20 minutes. Once the time has passed,

the water is safe to drink.

Other chemical purifiers, such as

chlorine tablets, potassium permanganate, or halazone, are also available at outdoor stores. While

bleach can purify water in small amounts, it’s not recommended because of its unpleasant taste and smell.

An activated carbon filter is another way to treat your water. It works by chemically binding impurities and most bacteria to the carbon particles’ surface while pushing the clean water through. You can find these at your local outdoor store, and they often come

46

in the form of a straw, but you can also make your own survival carbon water filter. (Instructions for this method are included at the end of this chapter.)

You can also purify water using a simple plastic sandwich bag and a piece of tree branch. Take your plastic bag and cut off one of its corners. Cut your branch into a 1 to 2-inch piece and strip it of its bark. Stick it inside the corner hole and tie it tight enough to create a waterproof seal. Fill the bag with dirty water and hang it up from something. Underneath, place a container and wait for the water to drip down into it. It may take a while but the water that passes through the branch filter will be free of contaminants including bacteria. What it won’t filter is viruses, so boiling it would be the final step for best water purification.

A primitive way to filter water if you’re short on resources is using soil or sand. Sand is preferable in this case because you can run the water through faster. Just keep rinsing until it starts looking clear. Although this method works well for sediment and bigger particles, it won’t purify your water from bacteria and other microorganisms. For it to be truly safe to drink, boiling is still required.

If you’re stranded on a deserted island, there’s a way to purify and desalinate saltwater using discarded plastic bottles. Even in remote locations, plastic garbage often washes ashore.

1. Find two plastic bottles - one larger than the other.

2. Cut off the bottom of the larger bottle and bend the edge inward to form a crease.

3. Cut off the top portion of the smaller bottle and fill it with salt water.

4. Place the smaller bottle inside the larger bottle and leave it somewhere sunny.

Over the course of the day, the sun will cause the salt water to evaporate. As it condenses, fresh water will coat the inside of the larger bottle and trickle down into the crease. Collect as much fresh water as possible using this method, as it could mean the difference between life and death.

Rainwater is naturally clean and safe to drink. If you can capture it using a tarp, poncho, or any other waterproof material, you’ll have a direct source of clean water without the need for purification.

As with all wilderness survival techniques, use your common sense. If the water is stagnant, foul-smelling, or appears contaminated, assume it is unsafe to drink without purification. Boiling water remains the gold standard when possible, but always carry one

47

or two backup methods - whether chemical purifiers, filters, or tools for collecting rainwater - whenever you venture outdoors.

By mastering these techniques, you’ll always have a way to stay hydrated, no matter how challenging the environment.

----------------------------------------------------- -----------------------------------------------------

How to Make Your Own Survival Carbon Water Filter

When you're stranded in the wilderness and need clean drinking water, knowing how to create a survival carbon water filter can be a lifesaver. With a little resourcefulness, you can build a working filter using natural materials and a few items you may already have.

To begin, you’ll need a container - something like a plastic bottle or any hollow cylinder will work. If you’re using a plastic bottle, cut off the bottom to create a funnel shape, then turn it upside down so the neck of the bottle becomes the outlet for the water. The first step is to prepare a base layer to hold everything in place. Find a piece of clean cloth, a bandana, or even moss, and tuck it into the neck of the bottle. This will act as a net, preventing finer materials like sand or charcoal from falling through.

The next step is the most important: adding charcoal. If you’ve made a fire, take some cooled, blackened wood and crush it into small chunks, about the size of peas. Charcoal works because its porous surface traps impurities and contaminants, making the water significantly cleaner. Once you have enough, carefully layer it over the cloth at the bottom of the bottle.

Above the charcoal, add a layer of fine sand. Sand acts as the secondary filter, catching smaller particles that the charcoal doesn’t trap. Next, gather some gravel or small pebbles and spread them over

the sand. This top layer will

filter out the larger debris -

leaves, dirt, or other sediment

- and prevent the sand from

clogging.

Now the filter is ready. Find a

way to prop it up, perhaps tying

it to a branch or resting it

between rocks. Slowly pour dirty water into the gravel layer at the top and let gravity do the work. The water will pass through each layer (gravel, sand, charcoal, and finally the cloth)

48

emerging clearer and free of most visible contaminants. Be patient; the process takes time as the water trickles through each filter level.

It’s important to remember that while this filter removes particles, dirt, and some contaminants, it doesn’t kill harmful bacteria or viruses. For the water to be truly safe, boil it for at least five minutes after filtering. Boiling ensures you destroy any microorganisms that might still be present.

Charcoal works so effectively because of its natural ability to absorb impurities. The tiny pores in the charcoal bind to contaminants, purifying the water as it passes through. If you don’t have a plastic bottle to build the filter, you can improvise with hollowed-out bark, bamboo, or any cylindrical object you can find in the wild.

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How to get water from

plants

In dire situations, knowing how to extract water from plants can be lifesaving. There are a few reliable methods that can help you get water from plants when you’re in the wild.

One of the best ways is tapping a

grapevine. If you find a grapevine in

a wooded area, chances are its stem

contains plenty of water. Look for a

mature grapevine with a thick stem -

these are easy to identify. The leaves

are palmate, with five lobes and a

toothed or serrated edge. Young

vines have smooth bark, while older

ones develop a flaky or scaly texture.

You’ll often find grapevines in moist

soil, such as near forest edges or

riverbanks. To tap the vine, make a

cut close to the ground, but don’t cut

all the way through. Then, make

another cut higher up on the stem. Place a container under the lower cut and let the water drip out. This water is usually clear and drinkable, particularly during the spring.

Another method is bagging sweat from plants. Select a healthy, leafy plant that is exposed to sunlight. Place a clear plastic bag over a cluster of leaves and add a small rock to the bottom corner of the bag to weigh it down. Tie the bag securely at the base. The heat from the sun will cause the plant to release water vapor, which will condense inside the bag. The more bags you use, the more water you can collect.

You can also collect dew in the early morning. Dew forms on grass, leaves, and other types of vegetation. Use a cloth or another absorbent material to wipe the dew off the plants, then wring the water into a container. Look for areas with grass, broad-leaved plants, moss, or low bushes, as they hold the most dew.

Another simple yet very effective method is tree trunk tapping. Trees like birch and maple can be tapped for their sap, which is mostly water. Drill a small hole into the trunk,

50

about an inch deep, and insert a spile - also known as a spigot - if you have one. The sap will drip slowly out of the tree and collect in your container.

Other plants can also provide moisture. Dig up plants with deep roots like dandelion or wild lettuce, as these often hold significant amounts of water. You can collect moisture from plants such as reed grass, lichens, and ferns. If you come across water-rich fruits and berries, they can also be a good source of hydration.

When extracting water from plants, always be cautious. Many plants look similar but have very different properties. Make absolutely sure that the plants you’re using are not toxic, as drinking water from the wrong source can be dangerous.

By learning these techniques, you can stay hydrated and safe, even in the most challenging environments.

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Part IV:

FIRE

52

How to start a fire even in

the rain

When you're out in the woods, you can never predict what the weather will throw at you. But even if you can’t control the weather, you can control your surroundings. Starting a fire in the rain might seem impossible, but with the right techniques, you can make it happen.

The first challenge is finding dry tinder. Here’s a trick: as you move through the forest, collect bits of tinder and stuff them inside your jacket. Your body warmth will dry the tinder over a few hours, making it ready to use. For kindling, search for dead branches that are still attached to trees. Avoid collecting sticks from

the ground as they’re likely to be soaked with

moisture from the soil. Using a sharp knife or

hatchet, cut into the wet wood until you reach the

dry interior. Shave thin layers from the dry core to

create wood shavings or baton the wood to expose

more dry material. Remember to protect this dry

wood while working - use a tarp, poncho, or even

your shelter to keep it dry.

For kindling and tinder, it’s important that you

shave very small and thin layers of wood. This way,

they’ll catch fire faster. The key is to make lots of

shavings, as the humidity around you will be a pain

in the neck. You can also make a feather stick. This

technique leaves the shaved curls on the stick

itself, allowing for increased surface area – more

area for your fire to catch. When making a feather stick, it is very important to use a sharp and sturdy knife. This will help you create very smooth cuts. It will also help you control your hand moves better. Then, hold the wood stick you want to cut firmly and start

shaving, thin “slices” by going downward

with the knife, at a shallow angle. It is

important to avoid chopping too deep.

This way, you will be able to make curled

cuts, which is great for quickly igniting the

fire.

Also, another thing to look for when

making a fire in the wild is dry sap,

especially coniferous tree sap, which is

highly flammable because of its high resin content. You can find it on fallen trees, they

53

often have dried sap on them. Simply pry it away with your knife. Of course, the sap is not always easy to find, so don’t worry, you can still make a fire in the rain without it.

Now, once you have your dry wood shavings

and hopefully once you have also collected

your sap, you can ignite them by using any of

the fire starters you have with you, like the ferro

rod, as it is extremely effective at igniting tinder,

thanks to its 5,000+ degree sparks.

Once you set fire to the shavings and sap, you

need to pile lots and lots of kindling and wood

branches on top of your fire – two or three times

more than you would use for making a regular fire. Having plenty of kindling on hand will help assure that your fire will catch, and you won’t have to start again from scratch.

The kindling will also create a mini shelter over your fire in the rain, protecting it as they catch fire from beneath. If it’s truly pouring, a tarp or poncho placed above you will help out a lot. It’s all about protecting this fire from the elements at first.

Then, you need to fan it, pumping in

oxygen to keep the flames going. Again,

use whatever you have on hand. Using a

fire blower is very easy. You can buy one or

you can make one yourself. You just need

to take a thicker wood stick, cut it in two

halves, then start shaving the core of one

of the two halves. This is what will ensure

airflow. You now have your own

handmade fire blower to use in the wild. You can also fan it with anything you have on hand, like a folded tarp, and use it to bring enough oxygen inside the fire shelter. As the fire strengthens, add more wood, gradually increasing the size of the fuel. When the flames are strong enough, add hardwood logs to provide long-lasting heat and protection against the rain.

To ensure your fire lasts, dry new wood near the fire and store it in your shelter or under a tarp. By thinking ahead, you’ll have dry fuel ready for the next time you need to start a fire, making the process easier.

With these techniques, you can confidently start a fire even in the rain. Beyond being practical, this skill will impress anyone watching. A well-built fire can burn through the night, keeping you warm and cozy in your shelter, no matter how much rain falls outside.

54

How to Start a Fire in the

Wild

Fire is one of the most essential tools for survival. It cooks food, purifies water, wards off predators, provides warmth, and serves as a signal for help. Mastering the skill of fire-making is critical for anyone venturing into the wild.

Understanding Fire

diagram of the fire triangle with each element labelled: heat, fuel, and oxygen.

The fire triangle represents the three elements required to create and sustain a fire: heat, fuel, and oxygen. These three elements must come together in the right way to create and sustain a fire.

Heat is the initial spark or flame. It can come from friction, a spark, or a lens that harnesses the power of the sun.

Fuel is the material that burns. It ranges from tiny tinder to larger logs.

Fire also needs air to breathe, just like we do. Without enough oxygen, your fire will suffocate and die.

Selecting a Safe Location

The first step in starting a fire is choosing a safe location. Look for a spot away from overhanging branches, dry grass, tree roots, and other flammable materials. Make sure it’s a flat area with good ventilation. Clear the area of debris – you don’t want to start a forest fire - and create a fire ring with stones if possible. This helps contain the fire and prevents it from spreading.

Gathering and Preparing Materials

A successful fire requires three types of materials: tinder, kindling, and fuel wood.

Tinder is the most delicate and catches fire easily – think dry leaves, dry grass, bark, and moss. You can add even a piece of clothing or teased cordage when you make your tinder bundle, which will resembles a bird’s nest.

Fatwood comes from the heartwood of pine and fir trees. Find a fallen pine and cut a branch stump, flush with the trunk. You will see a solid, amber-colored wood, amber because of its high resin content. In the shape of fine shavings, fatwood is a great type of tinder because the resin is highly flammable, and the wood will ignite and burn easily. Pine or spruce resin, which is found on wounded trees, is also an excellent option, as it is very flammable and waterproof, so, even if it gets doused in water, it will still light up.

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For kindling, use many small dry sticks and twigs, these will catch fire from your tinder bundle. Only then will you add larger pieces of wood.

Finally, your fuel wood refers to larger logs that will keep your fire burning.

Fire-Starting Techniques

Several methods can be used to start a fire, ranging from traditional techniques to modern tools.

The Bow and Drill

A lighter or ferro rod is easiest, but let’s start with

the traditional bow drill – starting fire by using

friction. It takes a lot of practice, so make sure to

try it at home a few times before having to use it

in the wild. And always have a large tinder bundle

ready before starting your friction fire.

This friction-based method requires a spindle,

fireboard, bow, and socket.

The spindle is a very straight, dry stick, about 8-

10 inches (20-25 centimeters) long and ~3/4s of

an inch (~2 centimeters) in diameter. A softer

hardwood, such as basswood, aspen, willow,

poplar, or cottonwood work best.

The fireboard is the base – a flat piece of dry wood with a notch cut into it, ideally made from the same seasoned hardwood as the spindle. Cedar on cedar works well if it’s available in your area.

The bow is made of a light, rigid, curved stick about 1-2 inches (2.5-5 centimeters) in diameter, notched on each end so you can tie your string to each end. A nylon or a leather cord is the most resistant to wear from friction and provides a firm grip. The length is around 30 inches (75 centimeters) – a good way to gauge this in the field is the length from your armpit to the tips of your fingers.

And finally, you will need to protect the hand that is on top of the spindle with a socket – also called a bearing block, which is a piece of hardwood, stone, or bone that you put on top of the spindle to hold it in place.

Wrap the string around the spindle, place the spindle in the fireboard notch, and hold the socket on top. Moving the bow back and forth steadily to create friction will generate a hot coal. Try and keep your bow parallel when you’re making your ember. Carefully transfer the hot coal to your tinder bundle and blow gently to ignite. Smoke is the first sign that fire will light up soon.

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The Hand Drill

The next one is the hand drill - one of the

most traditional fire-starting methods that

uses friction to generate ember. For this

technique, you need to spin a wooden

spindle between your palms, against a

fireboard, while pushing down on it.

Carve a V-shaped notch and a small

depression in the fireboard, position the

spindle, and spin it rapidly with both hands

to produce heat. At some point, you’ll see

ember forming at the base, which can then

transfer to the tinder bundle to ignite a

flame.

Ideal woods for the spindle include

mullein stalks, yucca, elderberry, and

willow, while cottonwood, basswood, cedar, and poplar are excellent for the fireboard. Both components should be dry, non-resinous, and low-density for optimal results.

The Fire Plough

The fire plough is

one of the ancient

fire-starting

methods. For this,

you need a flat

piece of softwood,

known as the

plough board, and

a harder stick,

called the plough.

Firstly, carve a groove along the length of the board. The plough stick should be also carved on one end, until it gets slightly less wide than the board groove. Now start moving the plough back and forth on the board groove until a smoking ember forms.

Softwoods like cedar or basswood work best for the board, because they create friction more easily, while harder woods like oak or hickory are ideal for the plough. This method is relatively fast but can be strenuous due to the physical effort required to push the plough back and forth.

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The Fire Saw

The fire saw generally

uses bamboo for its parts,

but other types of wood

can be used effectively.

The key is to choose wood

that is both soft enough to

generate friction and

durable enough to

withstand the sawing motion. Cedar, poplar, willow, chestnut, and cottonwood are some great options.

To create a fire saw, select a piece of softwood for the fireboard. The fireboard should be flat and smooth on one side. Carve a shallow groove along its width, just wide enough to fit the saw implement. You can also poke a small hole from under the groove, so that the ember that forms will fall in the back of the board, where you will also hold into place a tinder bundle, using another small and long piece of wood.

The saw implement should be long and sturdy. Now carve it into a flat, straight piece, and sharpen one edge so that the fireboard groove can slide along it.

Place the saw implement on a stable surface and secure it with your feet or your hips. Hold the fireboard with both hands and place its groove on the sharpened edge of the saw implement. Use a rapid, back-and-forth hand motion, and apply downward pressure, until smoke comes out and the ember falls onto the tinder bundle. Now blow gently in your smoking tinder to ignite.

The fire saw can be strenuous and slow, as it requires consistent sawing motion to generate an ember, but in the end, it is a very efficient technique.

The Fire Thong

Another method is the fire thong. It uses a strip of flexible material, known as the thong, and a wood piece. A flexible, non-stretchy material like rawhide or leather cord, plant fiber, or split rattan is recommended for the thong. The thong is best tied at each end to a piece of wood or any other material that can serve as a handle, for better grip.

Softwoods, like cedar, are ideal for the wood piece, as they generate heat more quickly. On this softwood piece, carve out a conical shape, tapering towards the bottom.

Put the piece of wood on the ground and prop it up against another stick or a rock. Now wrap the thong around the wood

58

piece, while you hold it firmly with both hands, and start making rapid back-and-forth motions, to create friction.

This method is relatively fast, but requires significant coordination and physical effort, making it one of the more strenuous techniques.

Flint and Steel

The flint and steel fire-starting technique

revolutionized fire-making due to its reliability and

ease of use. You simply need to strike a piece of

carbon steel against flint to make sparks. Catch

the sparks on a tinder bundle or a piece of

charcloth to create an ember. For this method,

high-carbon steel and flint or other hard stones

like quartz are the best ones to use.

This method is relatively quick and requires the

least amount of physical effort compared to other methods, making it one of the most efficient techniques. This very useful item can also come in the shape of a ferro rod.

The Ferro Rod

The ferrocerium rod, commonly known as a ferro

rod, is one of the most reliable methods to start a

fire in a survival situation. It’s a metal rod made

from a mix of iron, magnesium, and other metals

that produces sparks when scraped with a hard

edge, typically a steel striker or the back of a knife.

The sparks generated can reach temperatures of

up to 6,000 °F (3,315 °C), so it’s able to ignite

tinder even in damp or windy conditions.

To use a ferro rod the first step is to prepare tinder

such as dry leaves, fine wood shavings, finely worked bark, or even cotton. Place your tinder in a small, easily accessible pile. Then, hold the ferro rod at a downward 45-degree angle near the tinder and use your striker to scrape the rod, directing the sparks toward the tinder pile. Once the tinder catches a spark and begins to smolder, gently blow on it and add small kindling to help the fire grow.

A useful tip is to scrape off the protective coating before use. New ferro rods often come with a black coating that prevents sparks. Use the back of your knife to remove this layer and expose the shiny metal underneath. This will allow you to produce better and more consistent sparks.

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Unlike traditional matches or lighters, the ferro rod is weather-resistant and can be used thousands of times. This is what makes it a durable, must-have tool in any bug-in or bug-out situation.

Battery and Steel Wool

An ingenious way to make a fire is by

using a battery and a steel wool

nest, preferably 000 grade, which is

the finest type of steel wool. If you

have these in your backpack, you’re

in luck, as it is one of the fastest and

less strenuous methods there is.

Simply touch the wool to both battery terminals and it will ignite. You will then add your tinder bundle and blow until it lights up. Please be careful not to breathe the burnt steel wool smoke as it is often covered in chemicals that are toxic.

Plastic Bag

Another ingenious method, and some would say

non-traditional, is using a plastic bag. You can use

a clear plastic bag, like a sandwich bag, to start a

fire. Simply fill the bag less than halfway with clean

water, tip it on an angle and twist it up until you get

a rounder ball. Be careful not to twist too much or

the bag will explode.

On a wood board add dry wood powder on top of a

tinder bundle, wait for the sun to come out, and

move the plastic water ball until you can focus the

light of the sun onto the wood powder, just like you would do with a magnifying glass. Smoke should come out soon and that is when you can pick up the tinder bundle and blow until it lights up. Patience is needed, but it is very rewarding. You can also use a Fresnel lens or a magnifying glass when it’s sunny out.

Extinguishing a Fire

Properly extinguishing a fire is as important as starting one. Douse the fire with water, stir the ashes, and douse it again. If water is unavailable, smother the fire with dirt or sand. Ensure the fire site is cold to the touch before leaving, and check for underground roots that might still be burning to prevent accidental forest fires.

Practicing these techniques in a controlled environment is essential to mastering them. Developing proficiency in fire-making ensures preparedness in any survival scenario.

60

The Fire That (Almost) Never

Ends (Self-feeding Fire)

A self-feeding fire is a practical method for maintaining a fire that can burn continuously throughout the day and night without requiring constant attention. This technique eliminates the need to wake up during the night to add wood or tend to the fire, making it especially useful in outdoor settings. It is made of a V-shaped ramp, filled with wood logs stacked over one another. After the log at the bottom burn out, the next one will drop down and take its place, keeping your fire fed.

The following materials are required to construct a self-feeding fire:

• Four small tree trunks or large, straight branches approximately 5 feet (1.5 meters)

in length.

• Two branches, each around 2 feet (0.6 meters) long, to be used in the bracing

structure.

• Eight large sections of tree trunk, each about 3 feet (0.9 meters) in length,

preferably hardwood.

• Two small pieces of wood to space the starting logs.

• A sufficient amount of dry kindling in various sizes.

• A hammer for assembling the structure.

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First, find a suitable area to set up your campfire. Stay away from ridge tops or open areas where the wind can be strong, but also don’t place your campfire too close to anything flammable in the woods, in your camp or backyard.

Then, create the base for your ramp.

To do this, take the four long, sturdy

branches. Fix them in the ground

preferably with a hammer or mallet,

at 45 degrees, two on each side.

Once your ramps are fixed, start

placing the eight logs on the ramps.

Remember to place the thicker ones

first and place the two small pieces

of wood between the two logs at the bottom, to make space for the kindling.

Once the structure is set, you can set fire to the kindling and let it burn. Use several sizes

of kindling, so they will catch fire

faster, and distribute it through the

length of the bottom two logs.

Don’t forget to provide your self-

feeding fire with oxygen, especially

at the beginning. You can use the

tarp folded 3-4 times as a manual

fan to keep the airflow inside the fire.

Also, make sure you don’t allow the fire to spread up to the other logs. This will just ruin everything you’ve worked so hard for.

With this setup, a self-feeding fire provides the convenience of uninterrupted rest at night, offering peace of mind without the need for constant maintenance. Additionally, this design is not limited to forest settings; it serves as an excellent alternative for backyard use. Its efficiency and long-lasting nature make it superior to a traditional campfire in various scenarios.

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The Smokeless Fire

When you’re all alone out there in the wild, the last thing you want is to attract predators. No matter if they are walking on four legs or two, you want to keep them far away from you. And an open fire can draw A LOT of unwanted attention, especially from other people. Generally, keeping the fire small and burning dry wood to minimize smoke might help keep it low profile. This approach should not be solely relied upon in life-critical situations.

The "smokeless fire method," commonly known as the Dakota Fire Pit, is an effective technique for maintaining a low profile in the woods. This method minimizes smoke and enhances fire efficiency, making it ideal for discreet outdoor activities.

For this, you’ll need to dig two holes in the ground. And, to disperse the smoke, build them close to but not right next to a tree – be careful not to catch any roots on fire. One of the holes will be our fire pit, the other will be the air tunnel. You want your fire pit to have a depth of about 12 inches (30 centimeters) and a diameter of about 8-11 inches (20-28 centimeters).

Dig the second hole about a foot (30 centimeters) away, somewhat diagonally, to make a little trench between the two. This trench will help the oxygen reach the fire. You don’t want this second hole to be too large. This is an air tunnel, and the air should not be dispersed inside it. So, make it about 6 inches (15 centimeters) in diameter. Be sure you build the little trench in the direction the wind is coming from.

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Finding the wind direction is also a helpful skill for safety reasons - understanding wind direction helps you control the fire's spread and prevent dangerous situations. The direction of the wind is what we call “downwind”. To determine it you can throw a handful of dirt into the air and watch the direction that dirt travels in. That’s downwind. Another way to test it is by simply lighting a match and see which direction the flame moves.

With all the preparations complete, the next

step is to gather a substantial amount of dry

kindling to light the fire. Examples of useful

materials include dry sticks, twigs, sap, dry

leaves, and larger logs. Dry grass, leaves, or

similar materials can also serve as

excellent kindling. Once the necessary

materials are collected, ignite the fire using

a reliable fire starter, ensuring proper

placement and technique for efficient

burning.

Your hidden fire pit is now complete, designed to keep you safe from unwanted attention. To further enhance its effectiveness and minimize smoke, consider these additional tips:

• Avoid using green or sappy materials, as their high moisture and resin content

generate excessive smoke.

• Construct a rock wall inside the fire pit, ensuring intentional gaps between some

of the rocks. These gaps facilitate airflow into the fire from the sides, improving combustion and reducing smoke.

By implementing these techniques, you can maintain a more discreet and efficient fire. This information can be invaluable in various outdoor scenarios.

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Swedish Fire

The Swedish Fire torch is a type of campfire was invented by the Swedish Army during the Thirty Years War in Europe, when they lacked enough firewood to make a usual type of fire. This method can be very helpful when the resources needed for a regular campfire are not plentiful. Also, this is great to use during winter, since the main fuel source is up off the snowy or wet ground.

There are three methods to create the Swedish Fire torch.

For the first method you will need a solid wood log, an axe, a saw, and wire. First, place the log on a stable surface where it won't roll or move. Take your axe and position it in the center of the log. Strike down to split the log into two halves. Now, take each half and split it again to create four quarters.

An easier and safer way to make the splits is by using a baton. Instead of swinging the axe repeatedly, you can fix it or a long sturdy knife in the log and use a baton, or simply a sturdy piece of wood, to apply the pressure. This way, the sharp edge of the axe is not being swung around and you won’t injure yourself.

Now that you have four almost equal

quarters, take one of the four quarters and

position your saw about two-thirds of the

way down the length of the wood. Cut into

the wood until you're halfway through. Use

your axe and baton to split out the core of

the wood where you made the saw cut,

creating a hollow space. Repeat this

process for all four quarters, ensuring you

leave the bottom core intact.

Now you have four sides that fit together. Take two of the quarters and mark where you'll cut a small hole just above the bottom

core. This hole is essential for airflow. You

can cut it in a square or diamond shape.

The diamond one is easier to make, as you

cut one triangle on both sides.

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Fit the four quarters together to form the base of

your torch. Ensure the holes you cut align for

proper airflow. Wrap the wire around the pieces,

to fix them.

Now shave wood chips from the core pieces you

removed earlier to use as kindling. Add the wood

chips inside the torch and light them. The airflow

going through the holes will help sustain the fire.

It might take some time and effort to make it, but

this type of fire will be of good use.

Always take safety measures when cutting and

drilling inside the tinder, like wearing safety

goggles and gloves.

For the second method, you will use a shorter

and thicker log and a wood auger. All you are

going to do is create 2 holes: one in from the

top, thru the middle and one in from the side, to

be used for the airflow. Make sure when drilling

the top hole that you will not drill the bottom as

well. You can use the same measurements

from the first method and go about two-thirds

down. For the second hole, make sure you drill

until it will meet with the first one.

Now take very small tinder chips and put them inside. As this is a smaller fire pit, you want to add something more flammable inside as well, like pine sap, to make sure the fire will be strong.

This particular method is very useful when you

only want to cook something in the wild,

because this small fire right here won’t keep

you warm during the night. So just take some

stable rocks, put them on your log, put your

cookware on top of the rocks go ahead and

prepare something tasty.

For the third method you will need a chainsaw. As there is high chance you will not have one at hand in the middle of nowhere, you can still use a baton and an axe for this method. However, it will be harder this way, as we want to make three deep cuts from the top down all the way across, to form six sections.

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First take the log and place it on a stable

surface. Start the chainsaw and make the

cuts as you would when slicing a pizza, in

a star shape. Move slowly and evenly and

cut ¾ on the way down. Leave at least a

third intact from the bottom upwards.

This should be enough to keep the log

firm. Once you are done with making the

cuts, take some paper, pine sap or even

dry moss and some birch bark if you find

some, and push them to the center of your cuts. Finally, light your flammable materials with the fire starter you have on hand.

There may be other creative ways to

make a Swedish Fire, but the above

three are all very efficient and each of

them serves different purposes,

depending on your needs. Practice all of

them and find your favorite, so that when

you are in the wild you already have the

knowledge and the practical skills.

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Teepee Fire

The Teepee Fire is a classic and widely

recognized fire-building technique, often seen

in Western-themed imagery and films. Its

enduring popularity is due to its simplicity,

efficiency, and practicality. This design is ideal

for creating a tall, quick flame while protecting

the flammable material inside from the wind,

thanks to its conical shape. These attributes

make the Teepee Fire a staple in survival

techniques and an adaptable choice for a

variety of climates and environments, from

dense forests to open plains.

The name itself reflects the fire's structure,

which resembles the traditional teepee - a

conical shelter often constructed from animal

skins by Native American tribes. However, the Teepee Fire is known for burning quickly, so it requires constant attention to keep it going. It’s best suited for short-term needs, such as cooking a quick meal or providing warmth for a few hours.

To build a Teepee Fire, begin by selecting and clearing a safe spot for your fire. Gather sticks, twigs, and other flammable materials from the surrounding area. If available, you can include paper, such as newspaper, to assist with ignition. In a wilderness setting, use a tinder bundle and kindling as your primary fire-starting materials. You’ll also need a few larger logs to sustain the fire once it’s burning.

Start by placing the tinder and paper (if available) at the center of your chosen spot. Light the tinder using your preferred fire starter. Arrange the sticks with the longest pieces on the bottom and the shorter ones on top. This order is crucial for proper airflow, as fires depend not only on good-quality wood but also on sufficient air circulation. Leave enough space between the sticks to allow air to reach the tinder.

Once the tinder is lit, the thinnest sticks should catch fire quickly, helping the thicker ones ignite. Smoke will rise through the top of the structure, and air will flow in from the sides near the ground. You can encourage the flames by gently fanning near the base. If available, a fire blower can also be helpful at this stage. It’s important to exercise patience

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during this process; avoid

adding more sticks until the

flame is well-established, as

too much wood too soon can

suffocate the fire.

When the flame is steady,

begin adding kindling about

an inch in diameter. As the

kindling burns, add larger logs

arranged in the signature

teepee shape by leaning

three or four logs against

each other. Gradually increase the size of the logs as the fire grows, but be cautious not to overdo it, as excessive fuel can cause sparks to fly outside the cleared area.

The Teepee Fire’s straightforward design and efficiency make it an invaluable skill for outdoor enthusiasts and survivalists alike. Its quick setup and adaptability to various conditions ensure it remains one of the most reliable fire-building techniques.

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Keyhole fire

The Keyhole Fire is an excellent method for outdoor cooking, offering the ability to prepare meals efficiently and evenly. This setup combines the functionality of a traditional fire pit with an additional space specifically designed for cooking, making it a practical and versatile option for campfire cooking enthusiasts.

To build a Keyhole Fire, start by gathering a pile of large rocks. Arrange these rocks to create a fire ring in the shape of a keyhole, with a main circular section and an extended rectangular section branching off from it. The circular part will serve as the primary fire area, while the rectangular extension will be used for cooking.

In the main circular section, construct a Teepee Fire, ensuring you light it at least an hour before you plan to cook. This allows the fire to burn down and create a bed of hot coals, which are essential for controlled and even cooking. As the fire produces coals, use a tool to carefully move some of the coals into the rectangular cooking area. This separation ensures that food is cooked over steady, radiant heat rather than direct flames, preventing scorching and enhancing flavor.

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The Keyhole Fire design allows for efficient multitasking, enabling the preparation of multiple dishes simultaneously. Pots or pans can be placed over the cooking area, while the main fire continues to provide heat for creating additional coals. Remember to maintain the main fire as long as coals are needed to keep the cooking process uninterrupted.

When it’s time to extinguish the fire, disperse the remaining coals and ashes within the stone boundary of the fire ring. Pour water over the fire until all embers are completely extinguished, and the area is cool to the touch. Given the fire's exposure to wind, it is crucial to ensure it is fully extinguished to prevent reignition.

The Keyhole Fire is a practical and efficient way to maintain control over the heat and cooking surfaces, making it a favorite for outdoor experiences.

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Star Fire

The Star Fire is an efficient and compact fire-building method, ideal for cooking in the wild. Its design, resembling a star, focuses heat upward, making it particularly effective for evenly heating pots or pans placed on top. Additionally, this method conserves wood by efficiently directing heat, making it a practical choice for outdoor cooking.

To create a Star Fire, gather the necessary materials, including small kindling, dry sticks, twigs, and nine logs that will form the star pattern around the fire. Begin by arranging the logs on the ground in a star shape, ensuring there is ample space in the center to build the fire itself.

Next, place a tinder bundle in the center of the star pattern, stacking it vertically rather than horizontally. This vertical arrangement helps optimize airflow, promoting a more robust flame. Position the kindling on top of the tinder. The kindling stabilizes the initial flame, allowing it to gain enough energy to ignite the larger logs.

Using your preferred method, light the tinder. As the fire develops, gradually add more kindling to sustain and grow the flame. Take care not to add too much at once, as this could extinguish the fire. Over time, the fire will begin to consume the ends of the logs arranged in the star pattern. To maintain the fire’s intensity and longevity, periodically push the logs further into the flames as they burn.

Once the fire is stable and producing consistent heat, it’s ready for cooking. Place your pot or pan on top and start preparing your meal. The Star Fire’s efficient use of wood and compact flame make it an excellent choice for outdoor food prepping tasks.

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Lean-to-Fire

The Lean-to Fire is a practical fire-building technique designed to perform well in breezy conditions. Its structure shields the flame from the wind, making it a reliable choice during challenging weather. This type of fire involves creating a framework by leaning tinder materials against a sturdy log, which serves both as a windbreak and a foundation for the fire.

To construct a Lean-to Fire, begin by selecting an appropriate location. Choose a strong, stable log to serve as the framework. To ensure the log remains secure on the ground, carve out two sides of the log at a 90-degree angle. This adjustment stabilizes the log and prevents it from rolling or shifting during the fire-building process.

Once the framework is in place, arrange dry, flammable materials near the log to serve as tinder. Suitable materials include tinder shavings and pine needles. Press these materials against the framework to create a concentrated ignition point. Next, gather sticks to serve as kindling. Start by placing smaller sticks over the tinder to form a roof-like structure and progressively add larger sticks on top.

Light the fire from below, targeting multiple angles to ensure the flame catches quickly. As the kindling ignites, the fire will spread to the larger wood pieces, creating a steady and protected flame.

While the Lean-to Fire is excellent in windy conditions, it does have limitations. It generates less heat compared to other fire structures, making it unsuitable for keeping warm in cold weather or cooking large meals. Additionally, if the supporting log is not securely positioned or if the ground is uneven, the structure may become unstable. For these reasons, this method is best reserved for breezy conditions where wind protection is a priority rather than warmth or extensive cooking needs.

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Upside-Down Fire

The Upside-Down Fire is a unique and effective fire-building technique that, as the name suggests, reverses the traditional method of layering wood. Typically, smaller wood pieces are placed at the bottom and larger logs are added later, with the fire ignited from below. However, in an upside-down fire, the arrangement is reversed, and the fire is ignited from the top.

This method offers several advantages compared to other fire-building techniques. Unlike the self-feeding fire, which relies on gravity to move logs into the flame and requires precise setup, the upside-down fire is simpler to construct while providing consistent heat. It also eliminates the risk of the structure collapsing during use and can burn for several hours without requiring maintenance. Similarly, while the Dakota Fire Hole minimizes smoke and offers stealth by being built in a pit, it requires digging and setup. In contrast, the upside-down fire also produces minimal smoke and provides a longer, steadier burn without the need for frequent tending or specialized digging.

To build an upside-down fire, start

by selecting a flat, cleared spot

that is free of overhanging

branches or other flammable

materials. Begin by placing your

largest logs at the bottom in a

parallel arrangement, leaving

small gaps between them to allow

for airflow. On top of this base

layer, place medium-sized logs

perpendicular to the first layer,

creating a crisscross pattern. Continue building additional crisscrossed layers, gradually using smaller sticks as you go. Finish the structure with a top layer of kindling, using the driest and thinnest sticks available. This final layer should be dense enough to catch fire easily while still allowing for adequate airflow.

Once the fire structure is complete, ignite the kindling at the top layer. The fire will burn downward, gradually igniting each layer below it. This method ensures a controlled, steady burn and eliminates the need for constant tending, making it ideal for situations where long-lasting heat and minimal smoke are desired.

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Trench Fire

The Trench Fire is a straightforward and effective fire-building technique, constructed within a shallow trench dug into the ground. This method provides several advantages, particularly its ability to shield the flame from wind, making it a reliable choice in breezy conditions. While similar in concept to the Dakota Fire Pit, the Trench Fire has distinct differences, including its simplicity and versatility.

Before constructing a Trench Fire,

ensure the area is suitable for

digging. Avoid locations with rocky

terrain, as this will make

excavation difficult. Similarly,

sandy soil is not ideal, as it may

prevent the trench from

maintaining its shape.

Additionally, check for tree roots to

reduce the risk of starting a forest

fire.

The size and dimensions of the trench depend on its intended purpose, such as cooking, heating, or both. Larger trenches are more versatile, offering enough heat to keep you warm during the day and night, even in adverse weather conditions.

To begin, clear the chosen spot of any vegetation. Using a folding shovel or similar tool, dig a trench with a slope. The shallow end should face upwind, gradually sloping down to a deeper section at the other end. The deep end should be approximately one foot deep. This design ensures better airflow and protects the fire from being extinguished by the wind.

The fire itself is positioned at the center of the trench's deep end. To build the fire, gather the same materials used in other fire types, such as tinder, kindling, and logs. The process for igniting and maintaining the fire follows standard methods, making the Trench Fire both practical and easy to set up.

This versatile design makes the Trench Fire a reliable option for cooking or heating in various outdoor scenarios.

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PART V:

FOOD

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How To Make and Set Traps

for Small Game

When stranded in the wilderness, securing food becomes a critical priority. While foraging for berries, edible leaves, and roots is an option, it won't provide the essential protein and fat needed to prevent muscle wasting and maintain physical function. Animal protein is crucial for survival.

However, hunting without projectile weapons is nearly impossible and requires substantial energy and time. This is where traps come in as a practical and efficient solution.

Traps allow you to catch small game while conserving energy for other survival tasks. By setting multiple traps in strategic locations, you increase your chances of catching prey without expending the effort required for active hunting. Two of the most reliable and easy-to-build traps for wilderness survival are the Figure 4 Deadfall and the Simple Snare. These methods use readily available materials and have been proven effective for capturing small animals.

The Figure 4 Deadfall

The Figure 4 Deadfall is

a highly effective trap

that can be made

entirely from natural

materials found in the

wilderness. It consists

of three carved sticks

that create a figure-

four structure to

support a heavy

weight, such as a stone or log. The weight should be at least three times heavier than the animal you aim to trap. When triggered, the weight falls, either crushing or pinning the animal until you return.

To construct this trap, carve three sticks as follows:

• Upright Stick: Features an angled tip and a square notch near its base.

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• Bait Stick (Horizontal): Includes a square notch to attach to the upright stick,

a small notch to hold the trigger stick, and

a pointed tip for bait placement.

• Trigger Stick: Has a small notch to connect with the upright stick and an

angled tip to support the weight.

Assemble the trap

in the shape of a

figure four, place

the weight on top,

and set the bait.

While it may take

some practice to

perfect the setup,

the trap is highly

effective for

catching small

game such as

chipmunks,

squirrels, and mice.

The Simple Snare

The simple snare is a noose that tightens around an animal when triggered. It is versatile and can be made using various materials, such as copper wire, plant cordage, paracord, shoelaces, or clothing string. Copper wire is preferred for its strength and flexibility, but any sturdy cordage will work. Also, wire will work better as it is much less visible to the animal than then the white cordage used in this example photograph and it will also be harder to for the prey to chew its way out of.

Proper placement is critical for a snare to be effective. Animals tend to stick to well-worn trails as they move through the forest. Place the snare along these paths at the animal’s head height, securing it with two small sticks to hold it in position. Setting multiple snares around your perimeter increases your chances of catching prey.

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Building a snare trap for

small game is a

straightforward process that

requires a few materials and

careful attention to the

environment where it will be

set. To start, gather

lightweight and durable wire

or cord (such as 24-gauge

wire), a sturdy stick or stake

for anchoring, a knife or

cutting tool, and gloves to

minimize scent transfer. The

location is crucial; look for

well-worn game trails or

paths near burrows where

small animals like rabbits or

squirrels are active. Signs

like tracks or droppings can help confirm the presence of your target.

To construct the snare, cut a piece of wire or cord about 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 centimeters) long. Create a small loop at one end by twisting the wire or tying a secure knot. Then, thread the other end through this loop to form a larger adjustable loop, which will serve as the trap. Size the loop appropriately for the target animal: 4-6 inches (10-15 centimeters) in diameter for rabbits, or 2-3 inches (5-8 centimeters) for squirrels. The loop should sit a few inches above the ground, aligned with the animal’s head or neck height.

Anchor the free end of the wire or cord securely to a stake or sturdy stick driven firmly into the ground. This ensures that the snare remains fixed when an animal is caught. Position the snare loop directly on the trail, making sure it is open and unobstructed. Use small sticks on either side of the trail to guide the animal into the loop, creating a subtle funnel. Lightly camouflage the surrounding area with grass or leaves but keep the snare itself visible and functional.

When using bait in a snare trap, its placement is key to luring the animal effectively. Ideally, the bait should be placed just beyond the snare loop on the trail. This encourages the animal to move through the loop to reach the bait, ensuring it triggers the trap. Alternatively, the bait can be attached directly to the wire or cord of the snare loop, particularly for animals like squirrels or rabbits. However, care must be taken to ensure the bait does not interfere with the loop's functionality.

In some cases, scattering small amounts of bait around the area can help create interest and guide the animal toward the snare, especially in spots where animals may not strictly

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follow a defined trail. For bait, choose items that are part of the animal’s natural diet. For rabbits, fruits like apples, carrots, or leafy greens work well, while squirrels are often attracted to nuts, seeds, or pieces of fruit.

It’s important to handle bait carefully to avoid transferring human scent, as this can deter animals. Wearing gloves and minimizing direct contact with the bait will help improve your chances of success.

Check the trap regularly to prevent unnecessary suffering and to ensure it has not been disturbed by scavengers or non-target animals. If the snare is not successful after some time, consider resetting it or relocating it to another active trail. Always follow local laws and ethical guidelines when using snares and ensure that you remove them completely when they are no longer needed.

The Spring Snare

A spring snare operates like a regular snare but

incorporates mechanical action using a flexible

sapling. This design increases the trap’s

effectiveness by pulling the noose tight when

triggered. Here’s how to set one up:

1. You can use paracord, but wire will be better to create the noose, attaching it to the

sapling.

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2. Bend the sapling to create tension and secure it with a forked stick deeply

embedded in the ground.

3. Place another stick firmly in the ground across from the forked stick.

4. Use a horizontal stick as the trigger, where the bait and noose are set.

When the animal triggers the snare, the

sapling springs upward, tightening the

noose and securing the prey. This

method reduces the chances of the

animal chewing its way free but requires

more practice to build successfully.

Best bait for small game

• Rabbits: Use fruits (e.g., apples,

carrots) or leafy greens like

lettuce or cabbage.

• Squirrels: Nuts, seeds, or pieces

of fruit.

• General: Anything that is part of

the natural diet of the animal in

the area.

By carefully setting up and maintaining

the snare, you increase your chances of capturing small game effectively and humanely.

The Deep Hole or Pit Trap

The Deep Hole or Pit Trap is one of the

simplest and most effective wilderness

traps.

To build it, dig a hole 1 to 2 feet (30-60

centimeters) deep, tapering the opening

to be smaller than the bottom. Smooth

the walls to prevent the animal from

climbing out. You can cover the hole with

foliage and place the bait on top or at the

bottom of the pit, to lure animals inside.

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For even greater success, use an elevated cover to make the hole resemble a safe hiding place. Small animals often see this as a potential burrow, making the trap surprisingly effective.

Punji Stick Pit Trap

To construct a punji stick pit trap for catching wild game in the wilderness, you must carefully plan, choose an appropriate location, and execute the design with precision. This type of trap is a primitive yet effective way to capture or injure animals, often for survival situations. The key lies in creating a concealed hazard that an animal cannot detect, making it fall into the pit and be immobilized by the sharpened stakes within.

Begin by selecting a location frequented by your target animal. This could be a well-used game trail, near a water source, or close to areas with abundant food, such as berry bushes. Look for signs of animal activity, such as tracks, droppings, or trampled vegetation. The placement of the trap is critical, as it needs to be along a path animals are likely to travel, increasing your chances of success.

Once the site is chosen, dig a pit that is deep enough to prevent the trapped animal from escaping - typically between two and three feet (0.6 – 0.9 meters) for small to medium-sized animals. The width of the pit should be slightly larger than the expected size of the prey, ensuring it will fall in completely. As you dig, carefully remove the soil and set it aside for later use in camouflaging the trap.

Next, prepare the stakes. Select sturdy sticks or pieces of wood that can be sharpened into points. The stakes should be about 12 to 18 inches (30-45 centimeters) long and strong enough to remain upright when embedded into the ground. Sharpen their ends to a fine point using a knife or sharp tool. If available, fire-harden the stakes by lightly charring the tips, which makes them more durable and effective. Once prepared, embed

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the stakes into the bottom of the pit with the pointed ends facing upward. Ensure they are securely fixed and evenly spaced, leaving no safe area for an animal to land without injury.

With the pit and stakes ready, it’s time to camouflage the trap. Use branches, leaves, grass, or light debris from the surrounding area to create a natural-looking cover over the pit. The covering should be light enough to collapse under the weight of the animal but strong enough to look convincing. This step is crucial to preventing the prey from suspecting the trap and walking around it.

To lure the animal into the trap, place bait near or just beyond the edge of the pit, depending on the animal’s behavior. The type of bait should match the diet of your target species. For herbivores such as deer or rabbits, use leafy greens, berries, or fruits like apples. Carnivorous or omnivorous animals such as raccoons, foxes, or wild pigs may be attracted by meat scraps or fish. Ensure the bait is fresh and aromatic to draw the animal’s attention and scatter small pieces leading toward the pit to create a trail.

When the animal approaches the bait, it will likely step onto the camouflaged covering, causing it to collapse into the pit and onto the stakes. The stakes immobilize the prey, making it unable to escape. It’s essential to check the trap frequently to minimize the animal’s suffering and to prevent scavengers from stealing your catch. If the trap is unsuccessful after some time, consider relocating it to a more active area or adjusting the bait.

This trap is most effective for medium-sized animals like wild pigs, raccoons, or large rabbits but can also work for smaller game if scaled down. However, setting such traps requires care, as they can pose a risk to unintended targets, including humans. Always

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exercise caution, respect wildlife, and ensure the use of such methods aligns with local laws and ethical considerations.

Tools for Survival

Whenever venturing into the wilderness, always carry a knife and paracord. A paracord bracelet is lightweight and can serve as a valuable tool for making traps or other survival tasks. These items significantly improve your chances of successfully setting up and maintaining traps.

Practice for Survival

Building effective traps takes practice, but mastering these skills can mean the difference between survival and starvation. Trapping small animals provides the critical protein and fat needed to sustain energy levels and prevent muscle wasting. By setting multiple traps and using strategic placement, you can maximize your chances of staying nourished until rescue arrives.

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Fishing in the Wild

The saying “Give a man a fish, you’ll feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime” holds immense truth, especially in a survival situation. In the wilderness, fishing is one of the most practical and reliable ways to secure food.

Unlike hunting, which is labor-intensive and often requires significant skill and energy, fishing offers a sustainable solution that can provide the essential protein and fat your body needs to maintain strength and function.

Fishing doesn’t require bulky or expensive equipment. With a little ingenuity, you can make fishing gear from materials found in the wild.

However, it is always a good idea to pack a lightweight fishing kit that includes a few barbed hooks, fishing line, bobbers, and weights. Improvising fishing tools is also straightforward.

For example, the tab from a metal can be cut

and shaped into a hook, while safety pins and

paperclips can be bent into functional hooks

with an eye for attaching the line. Another

option is a gorge hook, a small stick or bone

sharpened at both ends and tied in the center,

designed to lodge in the fish’s throat when

swallowed.

Once you have the tools, there are several

methods you can use to catch fish in the wild. The

most traditional is line fishing. Simply attach a

hook and bait to a fishing line secured to an

improvised pole and toss it into the water. Be

patient, as fishing often requires time.

A more efficient option is a trotline. This method allows you to fish passively while

focusing on other tasks. Stretch a strong cord,

such as paracord, across a narrow section of a

creek or river, tying it to tree branches on either

side. Attach multiple lines with baited hooks

along the cord, ensuring they hang into the

water. Check the trotline periodically, and you’ll

often find fish waiting to be collected.

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For those with access to a gill

net, this can be an incredibly

effective tool. Gill nets work by

entangling fish as they attempt to

swim through the mesh. To use

one, spread the net across

flowing water, anchoring both

ends securely. Make sure the

bottom of the net is flush with the streambed to prevent fish from swimming under it. Leave the net in place for a few hours or overnight, then retrieve it to collect your catch. Be mindful, however, that gill nets are often illegal outside of survival scenarios due to their efficiency.

If you prefer using traps, a basket trap or a Robinson Crusoe fish trap is an excellent choice. This trap is made of two cone shaped baskets, woven from thin, flexible sticks or vines. The larger cone acts as the holding chamber, while a smaller cone with a narrow opening

serves as the

entrance. Fish

are drawn to

the bait inside

the bigger

basket but

find it difficult

to exit once

they enter,

thanks to the

smaller cone

basket. An alternative is to use a plastic bottle to create a similar trap. Cut the top off the bottle, invert it, and insert it back into the body of the bottle, securing it in place. Add bait and submerge the trap in water. Both variations are simple to construct and can yield impressive results.

A fish weir is a similar trap option

that can be built using natural

materials. By arranging rocks or

logs in a funnel shape, you can

guide fish into a holding area. Fish

swim into the funnel but struggle

to find their way out, making it

easy to collect them. Check the

weir regularly to maximize your haul.

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Finally, fishing with a spear or gig can be a rewarding method, though it requires some

practice. A spear is made by sharpening one end

of a straight stick and hardening it over a fire.

A gig, which is similar but has multiple points, is

created by splitting the end of the stick into four

sections, inserting small sticks to keep the

sections apart, and sharpening each point. Aim

below the fish to compensate for water

refraction, and either throw or thrust the spear.

To increase your chances of success, fish early

in the morning or late in the evening, as fish are

more active during these times. Look for shaded

areas or spots with natural cover, as fish tend to

congregate there. For bait, search under logs,

rocks, or along the shoreline for worms, insects,

larvae, and other small creatures.

Even food scraps can work as bait. Match the size of your bait to the fish in the area; smaller bait is better for catching small fish, which can still provide valuable nutrition.

Fishing is not just about technique; it’s about persistence and adaptability. Whether you’re using a traditional hook and line, a passive trotline, or a handcrafted trap, these methods can provide a dependable food source in the wild.

With the right tools and a bit of creativity, fishing becomes an essential survival skill, ensuring you stay nourished and maintain the energy needed to face the challenges of the wilderness.

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How To Make a Wilderness

Smokehouse

In the wilderness, preserving food is crucial for survival, especially when refrigeration isn’t an option. Smoking meat is one of the most effective ways to ensure your food lasts longer while maintaining its nutritional value. It removes moisture, inhibits bacterial growth, and adds a rich, smoky flavor to the meat.

If you’ve had a successful day fishing or hunting, building a smokehouse allows you to preserve what you’ve caught for the days ahead.

To create a smokehouse in the wild, start by gathering your materials. Look for sturdy, dry wood, avoiding rotting pieces as they are too weak to support the meat. If possible, choose fallen branches or dry sticks for building the structure. For the firewood, hardwoods such as oak, maple, apple, cherry, or birch are ideal as they produce clean, flavorful smoke. Avoid pine or spruce, as their resin will create thick black smoke that can ruin the taste of the meat. To create more smoke and prolong the burning time, green wood can be added to the fire.

If paracord is limited, you can stretch its usability by separating the inner braided strands and using them as individual strings. The outer casing can still be used for lashing larger components together.

With your materials ready, choose your location carefully. Look for dry ground to make it easier to maintain the coals and avoid windy areas where the smoke will dissipate instead of rising into the smokehouse.

The foundation of your smokehouse is a tripod. Find three straight logs, about 4 to 6 feet (1-2 meters) long, and lash them together securely at one end using paracord. Spread the legs out evenly over your fire pit to create a stable tripod structure.

The support for hanging the meat should be around 18 inches (45 centimeters) above the fire to allow the meat to be smoked rather than cooked. Add horizontal supports to connect the tripod legs, ensuring they are sturdy enough to hold the weight of your meat.

Next, construct the racks. Use thin sticks or branches to create crossbeams that will span the gaps between the horizontal supports. Lash these racks securely to the supports with paracord or wire. These racks will serve as the platform for draping or hanging your meat. Once your tripod and racks are complete, you’re ready to start the smoking process.

Move the tripod away from the fire pit temporarily and build your fire. Use dry hardwood to create a base of coals, then add green wood to generate thick smoke. Once the fire is ready, position the tripod over the fire pit. To trap the smoke, create a covering for your smokehouse. Twigs from spruce or cedar trees work well, as they hold smoke effectively.

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Secure the covering with paracord if needed, ensuring it stays in place throughout the smoking process.

Now it’s time to add the meat. Cut it into thin strips or small pieces and drape it over the racks, ensuring it hangs freely in the smoke. Rotate the meat periodically to ensure an even coating of smoke on all sides. Maintain the fire by adding more hardwood as needed and monitor the process carefully. The meat is ready when it is dry, slightly brittle, and bends easily, similar to beef jerky. This process typically takes a few hours.

If weather conditions are windy or rainy, an underground hole smoker might be a better option. Start by digging a hole about 3 feet (90 centimeters) deep and 18 to 24 inches (45 to 60 centimeters) wide at the base. Build a fire at the bottom of the hole and add green wood for smoke. Create a wooden grate using small, green sticks, and position it 1 to 1.5 feet (30 to 45 centimeters) above the fire. Lay thin strips of meat across the grate, then cover the hole with wooden poles and branches to trap the smoke. Check the meat every few hours, and it’s done when it is dry, brittle, and dark in color.

Building a smokehouse in the wilderness is an essential skill that allows you to preserve meat efficiently and safely. Whether you choose a traditional smokehouse or an underground smoker, these methods ensure your hard-earned food lasts longer while adding a delicious smoky flavor.

Enjoy your wild jerky and the satisfaction of preserving food like a true survivalist.

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How to Make a Wild Fridge

Finding food in the wild is challenging enough but preserving it can be even more difficult. Once you’ve managed to secure more food than you need, it’s essential to store it properly to ensure it lasts for as long as possible.

A wild fridge is a simple and effective solution for keeping your food supply safe from spoilage and hungry animals.

To begin, choose a suitable location. Ideally, find a shaded slope where the fridge can remain cool and protected. A slope allows for easier ground access and provides a natural way to block the entrance with large stones or forest debris. If you can’t find a shaded area, try to position the fridge’s entrance facing north.

This minimizes sun exposure, keeping the interior cooler for longer. In flatland areas, a hole will serve as your wild fridge. For best results, the hole should be at least two and a half feet (0.76 meters) deep but digging down to four feet (1.2 meters) provides the ideal conditions.

At this depth, the earth’s natural temperature stabilizes between 50 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, which is perfect for preserving meat for a few days and roots or vegetables for several weeks.

Before digging, take note of the groundwater level in the area. Wet soil will quickly spoil any food stored in your fridge. Once you’ve chosen a spot and begun digging, line the walls of the hole to prevent the earth from collapsing onto your food.

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Fallen wood works well for this purpose, but if wood isn’t available, clay is an excellent alternative. Both materials provide the necessary reinforcement and insulation for your wild fridge.

To cover the hole, use large stones. The heavier and larger the stones, the better they will be at preventing animals from reaching your food. Along with offering protection from animals, this cover also shields the interior from heat, frost, and sunlight.

The earth’s natural ability to maintain 85 to 95% humidity is another key advantage of the wild fridge. This high humidity level is ideal for fruits and vegetables, as it prevents them from drying out and losing moisture.

It’s important to note that damaged vegetables should never be stored, as bruises or cuts can harbor mold and bacteria, which can spread and ruin your entire supply.

When storing meat, always rely on your senses. If the meat smells foul, it’s no longer safe to eat, regardless of how it looks. Use common sense and practice caution to avoid foodborne illness.

The wild fridge is a time-tested method for food preservation, used by humans for millennia before the invention of refrigeration.

It’s an incredibly resourceful way to make the most of the earth’s natural cooling properties while keeping your food supply safe and fresh for future meals.

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7 Edible Plants You Should

Forage for and Their

Poisonous Lookalikes

Foraging in the wild is not only a fun way to connect with nature but also a critical skill for survival. While there are countless edible plants out there, you only need to know a handful of common ones to meet your food needs in the wild.

These plants are packed with nutrients and often come with medicinal benefits as well. However, many edible plants have poisonous lookalikes, so identifying them correctly is absolutely essential. The number one rule of foraging is to never eat a plant unless you are 100% sure of its identity. Here are seven edible plants you should know and how to distinguish them from their dangerous counterparts.

Lamb’s Quarter (Chenopodium album)

Lamb’s Quarter, also known as goosefoot

or pigweed, is a highly nutritious plant

found across North America. It grows in

sunny areas such as gardens, fields, and

roadsides. The leaves resemble a goose’s

foot, are triangular with wavy margins, and

have a powdery coating on the underside.

The stems and the base of the leaves often

have a reddish tint, especially in mature plants. Lamb’s Quarter is rich in vitamins A and C, calcium, potassium, and magnesium. The leaves and seeds are edible and can be eaten raw or cooked.

Poisonous Lookalike: Belladonna, or deadly nightshade, can sometimes be mistaken for Lamb’s Quarter. Belladonna

has larger, darker berries and purple-

brown, bell-shaped flowers, which Lamb’s

Quarter lacks. Its leaves are smooth-

edged, not wavy, and it lacks the

distinctive powdery coating of Lamb’s

Quarter.

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Pineapple Weed (Matricaria discoidea)

Pineapple Weed, also known as wild

chamomile, is easy to identify by its pineapple-

scented leaves when crushed. It thrives in dry,

disturbed areas like driveways, trails, and

parking lots. The entire plant is edible, including

the leaves and flowerheads, which can be used

to make teas or syrups. It may help with

insomnia, stress, and gut health.

Lookalikes: Pineapple Weed is often mistaken for other types of chamomile, such as Field Chamomile or German Chamomile. These lookalikes are safe to consume, but Pineapple Weed is distinguishable by its lack of petals and its unique aroma.

On the other hand, Stinking Chamomile (Anthemis cotula) is a mildly toxic lookalike, causing skin irritation, allergic reactions, or

gastrointestinal upset if ingested. It has yellow

flower heads, white ray petals that are more

spread apart than in the safe chamomile plants

and it has an unpleasant odor, unlike Pineapple Weed's sweet, fruity scent. The differences in fragrance and flower structure differentiate the two.

Stinging Nettles (Urtica dioica)

Stinging Nettles are a nutritional powerhouse,

offering more protein than any other wild

vegetable. They grow in moist, shaded areas

from spring to fall and are easily identified by

their toothed, oval leaves and small spines that

cause a sting upon contact. Harvest young

plants for the best flavor and nutrient density.

Nettles can be eaten raw (carefully) or cooked,

and their seeds can also be consumed.

Poisonous Lookalikes: Stinging Nettles are sometimes confused with Joe-Pye Weed, which has whorled leaves and no sting. Deadnettles are also similar in appearance but are safe to eat. To confirm, touch the leaves lightly; only Stinging Nettles will sting.

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Purslane (Portulaca oleracea)

Purslane is a fast-growing ground cover with

fleshy leaves that cluster at the joints of

reddish stems. It’s rich in omega-3 fatty acids,

vitamins A and C, and antioxidants. Purslane

has a slightly tart, salty taste and can be eaten

raw or cooked.

Poisonous Lookalikes: Spurge plants, such as

Hairy Spurge or Spotted Spurge, can resemble Purslane but are toxic. The easiest way to

differentiate them is by breaking a stem. If a

white, milky sap emerges, it’s a Spurge and

should not be eaten.

Primrose (Primula spp.)

Primrose is a spring bloomer with tongue-

shaped, crinkled leaves and pale-yellow

flowers with five petals. The leaves, flowers,

and roots are all edible. The leaves have a

lettuce-like taste, while the roots provide

calories and fiber.

Primrose is available year-round, making it a

reliable source of nutrition.

Poisonous Lookalike: Foxglove is a dangerous plant that can resemble young

Primrose. To tell them apart, check the

veins on the leaves. Foxglove veins run

upward and parallel to the stem, whereas

Primrose veins extend to the leaf’s edge.

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Thistle (Cirsium spp.)

Thistles are easily recognized by their prickly spines and bulbous purple flowers. Although handling them is tricky, their taproots are rich in carbs and sugars, making them an excellent food source. Harvest the roots in spring for easier extraction.

Poisonous Lookalikes: Thistles are rarely confused with other plants due to their unique spines and flowers. However, always verify identification before consuming.

Fireweed (Chamerion angustifolium)

Fireweed is a tall plant with bright purple, four-petaled flowers and slim, lance-shaped leaves with a white midrib. It thrives in areas affected by fire or clearings. All parts of Fireweed are edible, including its leaves, shoots, stems, flowers, and roots. The shoots and young leaves are especially nutritious, offering vitamins A and C.

Poisonous Lookalikes: Fireweed is fairly easy to identify due to its

distinctive purple flowers and colonies, so it has no significant toxic lookalikes. However, as always, confirm its features before consuming.

Foraging is a rewarding skill, but it comes with risks if you don’t know how to

identify plants properly. Always ensure you’re confident about the plant you’re foraging and take the time to learn about their poisonous counterparts.

By mastering these seven edible plants and their distinguishing features, you’ll be well-equipped to find food in the wild while staying safe.

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12 Edible Fruit Bushes and

Trees and Their Poisonous

Lookalikes

The wild is full of delicious fruits that can provide sustenance and nutrition during your adventures. Knowing how to identify edible fruit bushes and trees is an essential skill, and in this guide, I’ll show you eight commonly found wild fruits and how to distinguish them from their potentially poisonous lookalikes.

Bear Berries (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)

Bear Berries are low-growing evergreen

shrubs that form a dense mat across the

forest floor. Their reddish stems, rounded

leaves, and small urn-shaped white or

pink flowers make them easy to identify.

By late summer or early fall, the shrubs

produce bright red berries, edible for

humans and loved by bears. While raw

bear berries are dry and flavorless,

cooking brings out their sweetness. These berries should only be eaten in small amounts over short periods.

Bearberry leaves are also edible and can be brewed into a refreshing tea with medicinal properties, such as treating urinary tract infections or alleviating fatigue. These shrubs are typically found in woodlands, sandy hills, and riverbanks across the western and northern United States and Canada.

Lookalike: The only notable lookalike is the

Cranberry (Vaccinium macrocarpon), which has smaller leaves and berries but is also safe

to eat.

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Wild Strawberries (Fragaria vesca or Fragaria virginiana)

Wild Strawberries are one of the most delicious

fruits you can find in the wild. They grow on

small, creeping vines and produce white flowers

with five petals. The fruit is bright red, juicy, and

much smaller than store-bought strawberries.

Wild strawberries hang from vines, making them

easy to identify.

Lookalike: False Strawberries, or Mock Strawberries (Potentilla indica or Duchesnea indica), are often mistaken for wild strawberries. However, their fruit grows upright from the plant

rather than dangling from a vine. Mock

strawberries are not toxic but are bland and may

cause mild allergic reactions in some

individuals.

Wild Blackberries (Rubus fruticosus)

Wild Blackberries are scrumptious fruits that grow in thorny bushes and are easily identified by their black or deep purple clusters of berries. These bushes thrive along roadsides, forest edges, and parks during the summer months.

Be careful when picking them, as the thorny stems can cause cuts and scrapes. Besides the berries, blackberry leaves can be dried for herbal tea, and young shoots can be eaten raw.

Lookalike: Wild Blackberries have no poisonous lookalikes, but always ensure the area you’re foraging hasn’t been sprayed with chemicals.

Pawpaw (Asimina triloba)

The wild Pawpaw is the largest native North

American fruit, found in 26 states from Texas to

Canada. Its creamy, soft flesh tastes like a mix of

banana, pineapple, and mango. Pawpaws are

rich in vitamin C and healthy fats, making them

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an excellent find in late summer through fall. They turn from green to yellow, brown, and finally purplish-black when fully ripe.

Lookalike: Fortunately, the Pawpaw has no common poisonous lookalikes. Its unique tropical flavor and texture make it easy to identify.

Elderberries (Sambucus canadensis or Sambucus nigra)

Elderberries grow in clusters on bushes and

are widely known for their immune-boosting

and antioxidant properties. The berries are

small, dark purple, or black and grow in

umbrella-like clusters.

Elderberries must be cooked to neutralize

their toxic compounds, as raw berries can

cause nausea and digestive issues. Avoid

eating the stems, leaves, and raw fruit.

Lookalike: Elderberries are often mistaken for

Pokeweed berries (Phytolacca americana), which are toxic. Pokeweed berries are larger,

grow in rounder clusters, and have a smooth,

shiny surface. Always ensure you’re dealing

with elderberries before consuming.

Wild Grapes (Vitis riparia or Vitis labrusca)

Wild Grapes are found on woody vines that often

climb trees or spread along the ground. Their

large, jagged, heart-shaped leaves and clusters

of small dark purple or black grapes are

distinguishing features. Inside each grape, you’ll

find two to four pear-shaped seeds. Wild grapes

are ripe between midsummer and early fall and

can be eaten raw, dried, or juiced.

Lookalike:

Moonseed berries (Menispermum canadense) are a poisonous lookalike. They have single seeds,

unlike wild grapes, which contain multiple seeds.

Additionally, Moonseed vines are thinner and

smoother, without the woody appearance of

grapevines.

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Autumn Olives or Autumnberry (Elaeagnus umbellata)

Autumn Olives are small red berries with a silver-

speckled surface that ripen in the fall. The leaves

are oval-shaped with a silvery underside.

These berries are packed with lycopene, an

antioxidant that offers numerous health benefits,

including cancer prevention and improved

cardiovascular health. The fruits are tart and

flavorful and can be eaten raw or used in jams.

Lookalike: Autumn Olives can be confused with Honeysuckle berries (Lonicera spp.), which are toxic. Honeysuckle berries grow in pairs, lack the silvery speckles, and the leaves are not silvery underneath.

Wild Apples (Malus sieversii)

Wild Apple trees are small and often contorted, growing up to 20 feet (6 meters) tall. The fruits are much smaller than store-bought apples and have a tart flavor.

The leaves are saw-toothed and alternate on the branches, while the flowers are pinkish to white with five petals. To confirm it’s an apple, slice the fruit in half horizontally; the seeds inside should form a five-

pointed star shape.

Lookalike: Crabapples (Malus sylvestris) are the closest lookalike but are safe to eat. However,

their smaller size and bitter taste distinguish them

from wild apples.

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Wild Plums (Prunus americana or Prunus nigra)

Wild Plums are small trees or shrubs that

produce round fruits ranging in color from yellow

to red or deep purple when ripe. These fruits ripen

in late summer and are tart but sweet, making

them a delightful find in the wild. The tree’s leaves

are oval with serrated edges, and its white flowers

bloom in the spring. Wild plums are versatile and

can be eaten fresh or used to make jams, jellies,

and desserts.

Lookalike: Wild Plums can be mistaken for Cherry Laurel berries (Prunus laurocerasus), which are toxic. Cherry Laurel berries are shiny, grow in dense

clusters, and have smooth, evergreen leaves, unlike

wild plums, which grow singly or in small groups on

trees with deciduous leaves.

Salmonberries (Rubus spectabilis)

Salmonberries are bright golden-yellow to orange fruits that closely resemble raspberries. They grow on thorny shrubs with serrated leaves in groups of three and striking pinkish flowers. These berries ripen in late spring to early summer and are juicy with a tart flavor. They are commonly found in moist, forested areas along the Pacific Coast and make for a refreshing wild snack.

Lookalike:

Salmonberries are distinct and have no toxic

lookalike. However, they can sometimes be

confused with Cloudberries (Rubus chamaemorus) which are also edible and primarily found in colder, northern regions such as tundra

and boreal forests. Cloudberries are smaller than

salmonberries and have a unique, golden-yellow appearance when ripe. Unlike salmonberries, which grow in clusters, cloudberries typically grow as single berries on their stems. Both are safe to eat, but recognizing their differences helps avoid confusion during foraging trips in overlapping habitats.

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Huckleberries (Vaccinium membranaceum, Gaylussacia spp.)

Huckleberries are small, round berries

that range in color from deep blue to

black. Found on low-growing shrubs in

forests and mountainous areas, huckleberries are sweet and tangy with a

flavor similar to blueberries. These fruits

ripen in mid to late summer and are high

in antioxidants, making them a nutritious

and tasty find.

Lookalike: Huckleberries can be confused with

berries, which are toxic. Nightshade (Atropa belladonna) berries are smaller, shinier, and grow in loose clusters, whereas huckleberries

grow individually or in small clusters on bushes

with oval-shaped leaves.

Wild Cherries (Prunus avium)

Wild Cherries grow on small trees that can

reach up to 50 feet (15 meters) tall. The fruit is

small, dark red to black, and has a sweet-tangy

flavor when ripe. Wild cherry trees have shiny,

oval leaves with serrated edges, and their bark

often features distinctive horizontal lines.

These cherries are excellent for fresh eating or

making syrups and preserves.

Lookalike: Wild Cherries are sometimes

mistaken for Chokecherries (Prunus virginiana). While chokecherries are also edible when cooked, their raw seeds and leaves

contain toxic compounds. Wild cherries are

larger, sweeter when ripe, and less astringent

than chokecherries.

By familiarizing yourself with these eight common edible fruits and their distinguishing features, you’ll be well-prepared to enjoy the bounty of the wild while avoiding harmful mistakes.

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7 Edible Mushrooms You

Should Forage and Their

Poisonous Lookalikes

Foraging for wild mushrooms is a rewarding way to add a delicious and nutritious food source to your meals. Mushrooms are rich in protein, antioxidants, fiber, and vitamins, making them an essential survival resource.

However, misidentifying a mushroom can have deadly consequences, as many edible varieties have poisonous lookalikes. Today, we’ll cover seven common edible mushrooms, how to identify them, and how to avoid confusing them with their toxic counterparts.

1. Chanterelles (Cantharellus spp.)

Chanterelles are golden-yellow, funnel-shaped

mushrooms with wavy edges and "false gills" -

wrinkled veins that extend from the underside of

the cap down to the stem.

They grow in well-drained soils near conifer and

deciduous forests from June to October.

Chanterelles have a fruity, apricot-like aroma and

a delicate flavor, making them highly prized. Cook

them to enhance their taste and digestibility.

Lookalikes:

• Jack O’Lantern mushrooms (Omphalotus olearius): Bright orange and grow on decaying wood or tree roots, unlike Chanterelles, which never grow on wood. They grow in overlapping clusters rather than solitary or small groups. Though not deadly, they can cause severe gastric distress.

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• False Chanterelles (Hygrophoropsis aurantiaca): These have deeper orange caps with a darker center, true gills instead of false gills, and a

slightly fuzzy texture. They are considered mildly toxic to some people. While it is not classified as

deadly poisonous, it may cause digestive upset

such as nausea, vomiting, or diarrhea when

consumed. Some individuals report no ill effects,

but others experience mild gastrointestinal

symptoms.

2. Lion's Mane (Hericium erinaceus)

Lion's Mane is an easily recognizable mushroom

with a white, pom-pom-like structure covered in

spines. It grows on dead or dying hardwood trees

such as oak and maple, appearing as dense

clusters.

Lion's Mane has a meaty, seafood-like flavor and

is commonly used in culinary dishes.

Lookalikes:

• Bear’s Head Tooth (Hericium abietis): Quite similar looking, with longer spines and a

more branched structure, this mushroom is

edible and quite sought-after. It typically grows

as a single, large mass on decaying hardwood

trees such as maple or oak.

• Comb Tooth (Hericium coralloides): Has a coral-like appearance with shorter,

denser spines. Fortunately, this lookalike is

also edible. It is commonly found on decaying

hardwood logs and stumps in temperate

forests.

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3. Oyster Mushrooms (Pleurotus ostreatus)

Oyster Mushrooms are fan-shaped, smooth, and have decurrent gills that run down the stem. They range in color from white to light gray or grayish-

brown and grow on logs and dead-standing trees, often in shaded woodlands. These mushrooms have a slightly fishy but distinct smell and should always be cooked before eating.

Lookalikes:

• Jack O’Lantern mushrooms (Omphalotus olearius): Bright orange and grow on wood. Their true gills distinguish them from Oyster Mushrooms’ decurrent gills.

• Ivory Funnel mushrooms: Look similar to the

lighter Oyster mushrooms but have gills that stop at the base of the stem. They can be differentiated by examining the gill structure.

4. Morels (Morchella spp.)

Morels are spring mushrooms known for their

honeycomb-like caps, which lack gills or pores.

They can be found near dying trees, especially

oak and pine, and in areas affected by fire or

disturbance.

Morels vary in color, from white and yellow to dark

brown or black. Cook them thoroughly before

eating to neutralize any toxins.

Lookalikes:

• False Morels have wrinkly, brain-like caps instead of honeycomb patterns. They may also

appear reddish and are toxic if consumed.

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5. Chicken of the Woods (Laetiporus spp.)

Chicken of the Woods is a bright yellow to orange shelf mushroom that grows in overlapping clusters on trees like oak, beech, and cherry.

It has a meaty texture and tastes like chicken when cooked. The young, tender shelves are the best parts to eat.

Lookalikes:

• Jack O’Lantern Mushrooms: Easily distinguishable by their gills, while Chicken of the Woods lacks gills.

• L. huroniensis and L. gilbertsonii: Toxic lookalikes that grow on conifers and eucalyptus

trees, respectively.

6. Maitake (Grifola frondosa)

Also known as "Hen of the Woods," Maitake grows

in large, overlapping clusters at the base of oak

trees. The spoon-shaped caps are tan, gray, and

white, resembling a hen’s feathers. These

mushrooms can weigh up to 80 pounds and are

highly nutritious.

Cook them before eating for the best flavor and

texture.

Lookalikes:

• Black-Staining Polypore: Pressing the caps causes the underside to stain dark brown or black, unlike Maitake, which stays white. Fortunately, this lookalike is also edible.

7. Boletes (Boletus spp.)

Boletes, or porcini mushrooms, grow on the ground near Beech, Oak, and Pine trees. They have spongy, porous undersides instead of gills and come in tan to brown colors. The King Bolete is a prized edible variety with a

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thick, tan stem that does not bruise blue or have red pores. Boletes are versatile and can be eaten fresh or dried for seasoning.

Lookalikes:

• False King Bolete (Boletus huronensis): Rare and distinguishable by yellow flesh, a bluish reaction when

bruised, and the lack of reticulation

on the stem.

• General rule: Avoid Boletes that bruise blue or have red pores.

Tips for Foraging Mushrooms

• Identification: Always double-check the mushroom’s features, including its color,

shape, texture, habitat, and spore patterns.

• Cook Before Eating: Most edible mushrooms should be cooked to neutralize any

potential toxins and improve digestibility.

• Avoid Uncertainty: If you are not 100% sure about a mushroom’s identity, do not

eat it.

• Storage: Store mushrooms in breathable containers like baskets and consume

them within 48 hours or dry them for longer storage.

By learning these key mushrooms and their lookalikes, you can safely enjoy the bounty of the wild while avoiding potentially dangerous mistakes.

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The Best Trees to Tap for

Food and Water

When you find yourself in the wild without a visible water source such as a creek or pond, trees can become an essential resource for both hydration and sustenance.

Tree sap, rich in water, nutrients, and natural sugars, can be a lifesaving option - especially in late winter and early spring when survival can be particularly challenging.

Tree sap is like nature’s vitamin water. It provides hydration, essential minerals, and even calories, making it invaluable during the harshest times of the year. The best part?

The sap is already filtered by the tree, which means it’s free from harmful bacteria and parasites - a critical advantage over other wild water sources. But remember, this method is season-dependent, as sap typically runs between January and early March, depending on your location.

The Best Trees to Tap

Your primary trees for tapping are Maple and Birch, but you can also collect sap from Walnut, Hickory, and Pecan trees.

These trees produce sap that is water-rich with added nutrients and minerals.

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• Maple Trees: Maple sap can be boiled down into maple syrup, a delicious and calorie-dense syrup with about 100 calories per ounce. This syrup can last for months due to its high sugar content.

• Birch Trees: Birch sap has a slightly lower sugar content than maple but is equally refreshing.

Black birch, in particular, has a uniquely delicious

taste.

• Hickory and Walnut Trees: These can also be tapped for sap, though they are less common for

syrup production.

• Sycamore Trees: Some survival guides claim you can tap sycamores, but this is rarely

successful unless the tree is in an extremely wet

area.

Sap flows best on the south side of the tree, where

the sun exposure is greatest. A general rule of

thumb is to use one tap per foot of the tree’s

diameter. Remember that sap collected for drinking water spoils quickly - usually within 24 to 48 hours - so consume it promptly.

How to Tap a Tree

To collect sap, you’ll need a tap

(spile or spout), which can be

made from bamboo, PVC pipe,

copper tubing, or even a simple

stick. Here’s how to tap a tree the

traditional way:

1. Find the right spot:

Choose a tree with a trunk large

enough to handle tapping - at

least 10-12 inches (25-30

centimeters) in diameter. Locate a spot on the south-facing side of the trunk.

2. Carve a V shape: Use a knife to carve a small V-shaped notch in the tree’s bark.

3. Insert a drip stick: Sharpen a stick on both ends and insert it into the notch at a

steep angle. This allows the sap to flow efficiently into your container.

4. Attach a collection container: Use a canteen or bottle to collect the sap. Secure it

to the tree using cordage, roots, or flexible bark.

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Using Roots for Cordage

Roots from various trees can make

excellent cordage to secure your canteen

to the tree. Many tree roots grow close to

the ground and are both flexible and

strong. Simply cut a root, strip it as

needed, and use it to fasten your

container securely in place.

Caring for the Tree

Tapping a tree creates a wound, and it’s important to help the tree recover after you’ve collected its sap. Cover the hole with bark and seal it with clay or mud to protect the tree from insects and further damage. This small act of care ensures that the tree will remain healthy and continue to thrive.

Alternative Methods for Collecting Water

When tapping isn’t possible - such as in the summer - you can use tree leaves to collect water. Enclose a leafy mass in a clear plastic bag, and the leaves will "sweat" clean water due to condensation. This method works best in warmer months and is a reliable backup for staying hydrated.

Tapping trees for sap not only provides clean, safe drinking water but also offers a source of nutrition and energy. Whether you’re making maple syrup, birch tea, or simply quenching your thirst, trees are an invaluable resource in the wild.

Always remember to forage responsibly and leave the environment as intact as possible for the next adventurer - or the tree itself.

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How to Cook in the Wild

Cooking in the wilderness is one of the most ancient skills practiced by humans. It dates back over two million years, long before modern cookware existed. Cooking not only makes food easier to chew and digest but also eliminates harmful parasites and bacteria, making your meals safe and nutritious.

Whether you’re preparing meat, tubers, or other wild edibles, mastering outdoor cooking techniques is essential for survival. Let’s explore how you can prepare food in the wild using simple tools and natural materials.

Before you start cooking, it’s important to conduct a safety check of your surroundings. Cooking outdoors, especially meat or fish, produces strong smells that can attract predators. Even though most wild animals fear fire, the scent of food can draw them in. Always remain vigilant and maintain a secure perimeter around your campsite.

Fire is, of course, the centerpieces of outdoor cooking. If you’re struggling to build a fire, gather dry tinder, and ensure you have ample fuel. While preparing your fire, search for a flat stone slab and smaller rocks about an inch in diameter. Avoid using river rocks, as they can retain moisture and explode when heated.

Once your fire is burning steadily, place the flat

stone slab directly over it. Stones conduct and

retain heat exceptionally well, making them ideal

for cooking. Allow the slab to heat thoroughly

before placing food on it.

Meanwhile, throw smaller rocks directly into the

fire. These heated stones can later be used to boil

water in containers that cannot withstand direct

flames, such as bark bowls or hollowed-out wood. If you plan to grill food, gather greenwood sticks for building a makeshift grill.

Living wood is filled with moisture, making it resistant to burning. Suspend the sticks across the stone slab or between logs to create a sturdy surface for cooking. This setup can also be used for smoking meat, which dehydrates and preserves it for future use.

Cooking on the heated stone slab is straightforward and effective. For faster cooking, cut meat into thin slices and lay them directly on the hot surface. You can also cook wild eggs this way.

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If you have a fish or a whole animal that has

been gutted and cleaned, you can spit-roast it,

using a greenwood stick. Rotating it over the fire

ensures even cooking. Another useful

technique involves wrapping food in large green

leaves. Any non-toxic green leaf will work, as

the moisture in the leaf prevents it from

burning. Wrap your food securely and place it

over the coals or on the stone slab for moist, evenly cooked results.

For a more advanced cooking method, you

can build a stone oven. A stone oven allows

you to bake, roast, or smoke food with

consistent heat.

To construct one, start by creating a three-

wall structure at the base using large

stones. These walls will support a flat ledge

stone, which acts as a barrier between the

fire and the cooking compartment. Leave a

small gap between the ledge stone and the

back wall to allow heat to rise and smoke to

escape. Add a cap stone to enclose the

oven, fitting the stones closely together and

sealing any gaps with clay or soil. The fuel is placed in the bottom compartment, and food is cooked in the chamber above. This method is versatile and can even be used to bake bread or preserve meat and fish through smoking.

If you’re spit-roasting or smoking food, remember to monitor the fire closely. Consistent heat is key to thoroughly cooking your food and ensuring it’s safe to eat. For grilling or leaf cooking, check your food regularly to avoid burning.

Always be cautious when choosing materials like sticks or leaves; make sure they are non-toxic and safe for food preparation. Another important safety consideration is ensuring your food is fully cooked to eliminate parasites or bacteria. If you’re cooking meat, cut into it to check that it’s cooked through before eating.

By using simple techniques like heating stones, building grills, or constructing a stone oven, you can prepare delicious and nutritious meals with minimal tools. Whether you’re roasting meat, steaming food in leaves, or baking bread in your stone oven, these methods allow you to adapt to nature’s resources and thrive.

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PART VI:

FIRST AID

AND

REMEDIES IN

THE WILD

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How to Deal with Extreme

Situations

Extreme situations in the wilderness can occur unexpectedly, and knowing how to handle them can make the difference between life and death. Recognizing the signs of danger and responding appropriately is essential for survival. From managing hypothermia to treating snakebites, understanding these scenarios can help ensure safety in the wild.

• Hypothermia: Recognizing and Preventing a Silent Threat

Hypothermia occurs when the body loses heat faster than it can produce it, leading to the failure of critical organs like the heart and brain. While commonly associated with extremely cold temperatures, hypothermia can also occur in moderate conditions when wearing wet clothing, being exposed to wind for long periods, or after being submerged in cold water.

To prevent hypothermia, proper clothing is crucial. Multiple layers of non-cotton fabrics, such as wool or synthetics, help retain body heat. Covering exposed skin and avoiding excessive sweating can minimize heat loss. Early signs of hypothermia include uncontrollable shivering, confusion, slurred speech, and a lack of coordination. As the condition worsens, shivering stops, muscles stiffen, and consciousness may be lost. A simple test, like attempting to walk heel-to-toe in a straight line, can help determine if the condition is becoming critical.

Immediate action is required at the first signs of hypothermia. Seeking shelter from wind, rain, or cold and changing into dry clothing are essential first steps. Gradual warming is necessary, avoiding hot water or direct heat sources that could shock the body. Consuming warm liquids and engaging in light movement can aid recovery. Cayenne tea, with its circulation-stimulating properties, can also help warm the body from within.

• Heatstroke: Managing the Body’s Overheating

Heatstroke occurs when the body’s temperature regulation fails, causing the core temperature to rise to dangerous levels. Symptoms include a rapid pulse, dizziness, headaches, confusion, and in severe cases, seizures or unconsciousness. This condition is not limited to desert environments and can occur in increasingly common extreme heat conditions.

The immediate priority during heatstroke is cooling the body. Immersion in cold water is the most effective solution, but when this is not possible, moving to a shaded area, removing excess clothing, and applying water to the skin can help. Targeting key areas like the neck and armpits with cool water or improvised fans can speed up the process.

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Rehydration is essential, and frequent small sips of water are recommended to avoid overwhelming the body.

• Dehydration: Staying Hydrated in the Wild

Dehydration is a critical challenge in the wilderness, as the human body can survive only a few days without water. It is important to drink water consistently, regardless of weather conditions, as hydration is equally essential in cold and hot climates. Symptoms of dehydration begin with thirst and progress to fatigue, muscle cramps, dizziness, and dark yellow urine.

At the first sign of dehydration, resting in a shaded area and drinking small sips of water is crucial. Adding a pinch of salt to water can help restore electrolytes lost through sweating. If water supplies run out, locating a natural water source becomes a priority. Tree sap, which is water-rich and often safe to drink, can be an alternative source.

• Frostbite: Protecting the Extremities

Frostbite results from prolonged exposure to extreme cold, leading to the freezing of skin and underlying tissues. It most commonly affects fingers, toes, ears, and cheeks. Early signs include tingling, numbness, and cold, hard skin. Left untreated, frostbite can cause severe tissue damage, leading to infection or even amputation.

Prevention is the best defense against frostbite. Wearing moisture-wicking fabrics close to the skin, insulated layers, and waterproof outerwear helps retain body heat. Keeping gloves, socks, and hats dry is essential, as wet clothing accelerates heat loss. Regular movement improves blood circulation, reducing the risk of frostbite. If frostbite occurs, gradual warming with warm (not hot) water or body heat can help. Rubbing or massaging frostbitten skin should be avoided to prevent further damage.

• Snakebites: Prevention and Response

Snakebites, while less common than perceived, can pose a serious threat if venomous species are involved. Most snakebites occur when snakes are provoked or accidentally stepped on. Avoiding tall grass, staying on trails, and using boots and long pants can reduce the risk. When moving through areas where visibility is limited, creating noise or disturbing the area with a stick can warn snakes to move away.

If bitten, remain calm and move away from the snake. Remove tight clothing or accessories near the bite site to prevent complications from swelling. Calling for medical help is the top priority, as antivenom is the only effective treatment. Marking the bite site and noting the time can assist medical professionals. Myths such as using a tourniquet, cutting the bite, or attempting to suck out venom should be avoided, as these methods are ineffective and potentially harmful.

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Surviving extreme situations in the wilderness requires preparation and awareness. Whether dealing with hypothermia, heatstroke, dehydration, frostbite, or snakebites, prevention is always the best strategy. Proper clothing, hydration, and situational awareness can help avoid these dangers altogether. In cases where emergencies arise, acting quickly and decisively can make all the difference. With knowledge and preparation, even the most challenging scenarios can be managed safely.

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How to Make a Tourniquet

Dealing with severe bleeding in the wild can be a life-threatening situation. Knowing how to make and use a tourniquet is a critical survival skill that can save lives when all other methods of controlling bleeding fail. A tourniquet is designed to stop or slow the flow of blood, particularly in cases where major arteries in the arms or legs are affected. While carrying a pre-made tourniquet is always the best option, it’s also possible to improvise one using materials commonly found in the wild or in your gear. Let’s dive into how to properly use and create a tourniquet in an emergency.

When to Use a Tourniquet

A tourniquet should be used as a last resort when other methods of stopping bleeding have failed. It’s specifically effective for injuries to the limbs where major arteries may have been severed. Before applying a tourniquet, the first step is to attempt to stop the bleeding by applying direct pressure to the wound. Use a dressing if one is available, or your bare hands if necessary. Elevating the wound above the heart can also help slow blood loss by using gravity to your advantage.

How to Use a Pre-Made Tourniquet

If a traditional tourniquet is part of

your first-aid kit, it’s your best

option in an emergency. Begin by

locating the source of the bleeding

and positioning the tourniquet

about 2-3 inches (7.6-10

centimeters) above the wound. If

the wound is located near a joint,

such as the knee or elbow, place

the tourniquet above the joint.

Secure the tourniquet tightly around the limb using the strap, buckle, or Velcro provided. Many tourniquets include a windlass, a stick-like mechanism designed to tighten the strap. Twist the windlass until the bleeding stops, even if it causes pain - it’s critical to tighten it enough to stop the flow of blood. Once the bleeding has ceased, secure the windlass in place to maintain pressure.

It’s important to note the time the tourniquet was applied. Writing the time directly on the limb or the tourniquet with a marker, such as a sharpie, is recommended. Ideally, the tourniquet should not remain in place for more than two hours to avoid permanent tissue damage. However, in survival situations, these timeframes may not always be feasible.

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SWAT-T Tourniquet

The SWAT-T (Stretch, Wrap, and Tuck) tourniquet is a highly versatile and effective pre-made option. It’s simple to use and works not only as a tourniquet but also as a compression wrap or splint support. To apply it, stretch the band tightly, wrap it around the limb above the wound, and tuck the end securely under the layers of the wrap. The key is to stretch the band to the point where it constricts blood flow; this is indicated by the printed symbols on the SWAT-T that change shape as it stretches.

Twist Tourniquet

A Twist tourniquet uses a windlass - a rod or stick

mechanism - that allows you to apply precise and

intense pressure to stop blood flow. Place the

strap 2-3 (5-8 centimeters) inches above the

wound or above a nearby joint, such as the knee

or elbow. Tighten the strap snugly around the

limb, then use the windlass to twist the

tourniquet until the bleeding stops. Secure the

windlass into its holding mechanism to keep it

from loosening.

In both cases, note the time of application by

writing it directly on the limb or the tourniquet with a marker, like a sharpie. This is crucial for medical professionals to understand how long the tourniquet has been in place, as prolonged use can lead to tissue damage. Ideally, a tourniquet should not remain on a limb for more than two hours unless absolutely necessary in a survival situation.

Improvising a Tourniquet

If you don’t have a pre-made tourniquet, you can

improvise one using materials available in your

surroundings. A strong piece of fabric, a triangle

bandage, or even a belt can serve as an effective

alternative. Ensure the material is at least 1-2

inches (2.5-5 centimeters) wide to avoid cutting

into the skin. Thin materials like wire or shoelaces

should never be used, as they can cause further

injury and are ineffective at stopping blood flow.

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Position the improvised tourniquet 2-3 (5-8 centimeters) inches above the wound and above any nearby joint. Wrap the fabric around the limb and secure it with a square knot. If using a belt, tighten it as much as possible, using a multi-tool to punch an extra hole if necessary.

For a windlass, find a sturdy stick or branch. Place

the windlass above the knot and secure it in place

with another square knot on top. Twist the

windlass until the bleeding stops, then tie it down

to maintain the pressure. Use paracord, rope, or

additional fabric to keep the windlass from

loosening.

Knowing how to make and apply a tourniquet is a vital skill for anyone venturing into the wilderness. Whether using a pre-made tourniquet or improvising one from available materials, the proper application can save lives by preventing fatal blood loss. Remember to practice these techniques in safe, controlled conditions to build confidence and proficiency. By preparing for worst-case scenarios, survival in the wild becomes far more achievable.

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How to Make a Splint from

Natural Materials

Injuries like sprains or fractures can quickly turn a survival situation into a serious challenge. Beyond the pain, an injury to a limb can significantly limit mobility, making it difficult to hunt, forage, or even find help. While professional medical care is the ideal solution, there are situations in the wilderness where you’ll need to act quickly and rely on your skills. Knowing how to make a splint from natural materials is one of the most important skills you can have to stabilize an injury and prevent further damage.

A splint works by immobilizing the injured body part, allowing it to rest and heal while also protecting it from worsening. Splints are especially useful for fractures, severe sprains, or strains, as they keep the bones and muscles aligned. To be effective, the splint should stabilize the joints above and below the injury. For example, if the injury is in the foot, the splint should extend to the ankle. If it’s in the ankle, the splint should go up to the knee, and so on.

Padding is another key component of a splint. It stabilizes the injury, reduces swelling, and prevents discomfort from the splint rubbing against the skin. You can use anything soft and available, such as clothing, moss, or leaves, to provide cushioning. Without proper padding, even a good splint can become uncomfortable and less effective over time.

To make a splint in the wild, the first thing you’ll need is a rigid material to support the injured limb. This can be anything from sturdy sticks, bark strips, or pieces of wood. Look for materials that are straight and strong enough to hold the limb in place. Avoid hollow or brittle materials that may snap under pressure. Once you’ve found your rigid support, position it on either side of the injured limb to provide stability. Make sure there are no gaps between the splint and the limb, as this can cause instability.

After positioning the rigid support, the next step is securing it in place. Use whatever materials you have on hand, such as strips of fabric, cordage, or a bandage, to tie the splint. If you don’t have any of these, improvise with vines or even shoelaces. Tie the material firmly but not so tightly that it cuts off circulation. Check the areas around the splint regularly to ensure that blood is still flowing properly. If you notice that the limb becomes pale, swollen, or blue, loosen the ties immediately.

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Once the splint is secured, you’ll need to create additional support for mobility. For leg injuries, a crutch can be incredibly helpful. A forked branch works well as a natural crutch, requiring only minimal preparation. Aim for a branch that is about 4 feet (1.2 meters) long, with a broad fork at the top for comfort. If possible, pad the fork with soft material like clothing or moss to make it easier on your underarm. A sturdy crutch can make a huge difference in allowing you to move toward safety or find help.

For arm injuries, a sling is essential to support the hand and reduce strain on the injured area. A simple sling can be made using a jacket, blanket, or triangular bandage. If you’re using a jacket, insert the injured arm into one armhole and wrap the sleeves around your neck, tying them securely. Alternatively, drape the jacket around your shoulders and use it as a wrap to hold the arm in place. A well-made sling will keep the arm immobilized while reducing pain and preventing further injury.

When applying a splint, it’s crucial to prioritize stability and comfort. Take your time to ensure the splint is properly aligned and padded. Avoid rushing the process, as a poorly made splint can cause additional problems. After the splint is in place, rest as much as possible to allow the injury to heal. Staying hydrated and maintaining proper nutrition are also important, as your body will need energy to recover.

Knowing how to make a splint is an invaluable skill for wilderness survival. Whether you’re stabilizing your own injury or helping someone else, a well-made splint can prevent complications and provide the mobility needed to find help. By understanding these techniques and practicing them in safe conditions, you’ll be better prepared to handle emergencies in the wild.

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Infections in the Wild: What

to Do

Any wound sustained in the wilderness can quickly escalate into a life-threatening situation if not properly cared for. The smallest cut or scrape, if left untreated, can lead to infection. In the wild, where medical facilities are far away, an infection could cause severe complications, from the loss of a limb to a systemic, life-threatening condition. Forests are teeming with microbes, and just because they are invisible doesn’t mean they aren’t a constant threat. Additionally, infections don’t just arise from open wounds - dirty water, whether you drink it or swim in it, can also cause serious health issues.

When preparing for any wilderness adventure, carrying the right survival gear is essential. A well-stocked first-aid kit should always be part of your pack. Even the simplest items, such as alcohol wipes and superglue, can be lifesaving. Alcohol wipes are perfect for disinfecting wounds, while superglue can be used to seal minor cuts, keeping dirt and bacteria out.

Cleaning the Wound

After you’ve stopped any bleeding, your first priority should be cleaning the wound. If you have clean water, use it to flush out dirt and debris. To conserve water, you can pour some into a plastic sandwich bag, poke a pin-sized hole in the bottom, and squeeze the water through the hole. This allows for a more controlled flow, using only as much water as you need.

If clean water isn’t immediately

available, boiled water is your next

best option. Once the wound is

free of dirt and debris, apply a

natural antimicrobial substance

to reduce the risk of infection. Pine

tree sap is one of the most

effective antiseptics you’ll find in

the wild. Balsam resin from a fir

tree is particularly useful because

of its runny consistency, making it

easy to apply directly to the

wound. You can harvest it by using your knife to puncture the resinous blisters on the tree trunk.

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Creating a Spit Poultice

For deeper wounds or when you suspect that cleaning alone isn’t enough, a spit poultice can act as a wild bandage. This simple yet effective method involves chewing certain plants to create a paste-like substance, which is then applied directly to the wound. Plants like Plantain, Yarrow, and Usnea (commonly known as Old Man’s Beard) are ideal for this purpose because of their powerful antimicrobial properties. Once you’ve identified the right plant, hew its leaves (or lichen, in Usnea’s case) to form a moist paste. Apply the poultice over the wound and secure it with a piece of cloth or another wrapping material if available. This not only keeps bacteria out but can also help reduce swelling and promote healing.

Treating an Infection

If an infection begins to develop, quick

action is essential to prevent it from

spreading. Early signs of infection include

fever, redness, swelling, increasing pain

around the wound, or the presence of pus

and a foul odor. At this point, the focus shifts

from prevention to treatment.

To mend an infected wound, make a fresh

poultice from Usnea, Yarrow, or Chickweed.

These plants are known for their ability to

draw out bacteria and toxins from infected

cuts, boils, and abscesses. For more severe

bacterial infections, such as those caused

by staphylococcus (staph), Oregon Grape is an excellent natural remedy. Its leaves and roots can be used to make a poultice or an infusion, depending on whether the infection is internal or external.

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Oregon Grape is also highly effective for internal infections caused by contaminated water. Drinking an infusion made from its roots can help alleviate symptoms of salmonella and dysentery caused by E. coli bacteria. Usnea can be used in much the same way, offering another option for dealing with bacterial infections.

Dealing with Parasites

Parasites are another major concern in the wild, usually contracted through contaminated water. To prevent parasite infections, always boil any water you plan to drink. If boiling isn’t possible, use a high-quality water filter or purification tablets.

If you do fall victim to parasites, Wormwood

is a powerful natural remedy. Originally from

the Old World, Wormwood now grows wild

throughout North America. Drinking a tea

made from its leaves can help eliminate

parasitic worms and giardia, a common

cause of a fever resulting from animal-

contaminated water sources.

Prevention is Key

Infections, whether from wounds, bacteria, or parasites, are easier to prevent than to treat. When preparing for the wilderness, equip yourself with essential first-aid supplies, learn to identify useful medicinal plants, and always prioritize cleanliness and water safety. Simple precautions like boiling water, using antimicrobial plants, and carrying alcohol wipes can save your life in a survival situation.

Take every precaution before venturing into the wild, and always prioritize the proper care of any injury or illness to stay safe and healthy.

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Wild Aspirin: Making Medicine

from White Willow

White Willow is a natural remedy that

has been used for centuries to treat

pain, inflammation, and fever. It

contains salicin, a compound the

body converts into salicylic acid,

which has properties similar to those

of modern aspirin. White Willow is

effective for relieving headaches,

inflammation, arthritis, and other

inflammatory conditions. It also has

blood-thinning properties, so it

should be used cautiously if you are on blood-thinning medications or have any bleeding disorders.

In this chapter you will learn how to create a tincture called "Wild Aspirin", using White Willow bark. This tincture is a concentrated liquid extract that is easy to make, transport, and use.

Preparing the Bark

To start, you will need White Willow bark. This can be harvested directly from the tree, but always ensure that you’re gathering bark sustainably and in small amounts to avoid damaging the tree. For this recipe, use one-part dried bark. If you’re working with fresh bark, double the amount since fresh plant material contains more water, which dilutes the extraction.

Choosing Your Solvent

The next step is selecting your solvent. A high-proof alcohol, such as vodka or brandy, works best for this process. Alcohol is an excellent extractor for salicin and other active compounds, and it also acts as a preservative, allowing your tincture to be stored for a long time without spoiling.

The Extraction Process

❖ Prepare Your Jar: Start by filling a clean, dry glass jar about 1/4 to 1/5 full of dried

White Willow bark. If you’re using fresh bark, fill the jar halfway.

❖ Add Alcohol: Pour your alcohol into the jar, filling it to the top. Ensure that all the

bark is fully submerged to prevent mold growth. Seal the jar tightly to avoid evaporation during the extraction process.

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❖ Label the Jar: Write the name of your tincture and the date you started the

extraction. This step is important for keeping track of its potency and safety.

❖ Store the Jar: Place the jar in a cool, dark location. Let the bark steep in the alcohol

for 4 to 6 weeks. During this time, shake the jar gently every day to help release the active compounds from the bark.

Straining and Bottling

Once the extraction period is over, it’s time to strain and bottle your tincture:

❖ Strain the Mixture: Using a fine strainer or cheesecloth, pour the liquid into a clean

bowl to separate the bark from the tincture.

Squeeze the cheesecloth or press the bark to

extract as much liquid as possible.

❖ Bottle the Tincture: Transfer the strained

liquid into a dark glass bottle with a dropper.

The dark glass protects the tincture from light,

which can degrade its potency over time.

❖ Label the Bottle: Include the name of the

tincture and the date it was bottled. Store it in

the same cool, dark location where you

conducted the extraction.

Dosage and Use

The recommended dosage for Wild Aspirin tincture is 1 to 2 dropperfuls up to three times a day. It can generally be consumed directly, or it can be mixed into tea, juice, or water if you find the taste too strong. This natural remedy can provide relief from pain, inflammation, and fever.

Safety Note

While White Willow is a powerful natural medicine, it’s essential to use it responsibly. Avoid taking it in large amounts or for extended periods, especially if you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or allergic to aspirin. Always consult with a healthcare provider if you have concerns about potential interactions with medications or pre-existing health conditions.

This easy-to-make tincture is a great addition to your wilderness medicine kit, offering a natural, effective solution for common ailments.

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The First Aid Plant That Can

Stop Bleeding in Seconds

When you’re far from modern medical facilities, even a small injury like a cut or laceration can quickly turn into a life-threatening situation. Infections can set in fast, and profuse bleeding can cause a rapid loss of strength and mobility. If you ever find yourself in such a scenario, knowing how to act quickly and efficiently is crucial. The first step in any injury is to stop the bleeding. For less severe cases, there’s an incredibly effective plant found in the wild that can not only slow bleeding but also prevent infection.

This remarkable plant is Yarrow (Achillea millefolium), often referred to as Soldier’s Woundwort. It has been used for centuries as a natural remedy to treat combat-related injuries. Growing abundantly throughout North America, Europe, and Asia, Yarrow can be easily identified by its bright white, flattened clusters of flowers and feathery leaves. It thrives in meadows, prairies, and open spaces, making it a reliable resource in the wilderness.

Yarrow is not just a historical remedy; it’s a practical solution for modern-day survival situations. Its coagulant properties can stop bleeding almost instantly, and its natural antiseptic properties protect against infection. It is a vital plant to know about if you plan to spend any time in the wild.

How to Identify Yarrow

Yarrow is relatively easy to spot in the wild. Its flowers are bright white and arranged in flat, umbrella-like clusters at the top of the stem. The leaves are finely divided, feathery, and fern-like, giving the plant a delicate appearance. Yarrow often grows in meadows, prairies, and open areas, making it accessible to foragers and survivalists alike.

Whenever you come across this plant, it’s a good idea to harvest a few of its leaves. They can be dried and stored for later use or kept fresh for immediate application. This foresight can be invaluable in emergency situations.

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Using Yarrow to Stop Bleeding

To use Yarrow in a survival situation, the process is simple and effective. If you have fresh leaves, begin by harvesting a handful. Make sure the leaves are clean and free from dirt or insects. Chew the leaves gently to release their juices, then form the chewed leaves into a moist ball. This creates a spit poultice that can be applied directly to the wound. The Yarrow will act quickly to stop the bleeding while also providing a protective barrier against bacteria and other microorganisms.

If fresh leaves aren’t available, dried Yarrow can work just as well. Crush the dried leaves into a fine powder and sprinkle it directly onto the wound. Alternatively, you can steep the powder in hot water for about five minutes to create a liquid antiseptic, which can then be applied to the affected area. Both methods are highly effective, but it’s important to reapply the poultice or liquid treatment every few hours to ensure continuous protection and healing.

Preventing Infection with Yarrow

Stopping the bleeding is only half the battle. Preventing infection is equally important, especially in the wilderness where dirty environments can easily lead to complications. Yarrow’s natural antiseptic properties make it an excellent choice for creating a barrier against harmful microbes. It works to disinfect the wound while promoting faster healing, making it a versatile and invaluable tool for wilderness survival.

Even if you don’t have an open wound, Yarrow can still be beneficial. Its antimicrobial properties make it useful for treating skin irritations and even minor burns. Having a basic understanding of this plant’s applications can provide peace of mind and a greater sense of preparedness during outdoor adventures.

Yarrow’s incredible healing properties have been relied upon for thousands of years, and its effectiveness remains just as relevant today. Whether you’re a seasoned survivalist or someone heading out for a weekend hike, knowing how to use Yarrow could make all the difference in an emergency. By learning how to identify and apply this plant, you’re equipping yourself with one of nature’s most powerful tools for first aid.

Take the time to familiarize yourself with Yarrow and, whenever possible, keep some of its leaves handy. Whether fresh or dried, this plant is a game-changer for treating wounds in the wild. In situations where every second counts, Yarrow can be the difference between a minor inconvenience and a major crisis.

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Cattail Gel – Nature’s

Anesthetic

Cattails, those familiar plants found in wetlands, are among nature's most versatile resources. Found wherever there is fresh water, cattails thrive along rivers and lakes, in swamps, bogs, and other wetland areas. They’ve earned the nickname “the supermarket of the swamp” because of their numerous survival uses. Cattails can provide food in the form of pollen, roots, and shoots. The brown heads can serve as torches, and the fluffy material from spent heads can be used to insulate clothing, create a more comfortable sleeping setup, or even help start a fire.

But what many people don’t realize is that cattails hold a hidden treasure inside their stalks - a clear, sticky gel that has remarkable properties. This gel is a natural anesthetic that can numb the skin and mucous membranes on contact, working similarly to lidocaine. If you’re out in the wilderness and need fast pain relief - whether from a raging toothache, a cut, or an insect bite - this gel can be a lifesaver.

The Powerful Properties of Cattail Gel

Cattail gel serves two critical functions. First, it acts as a natural antiseptic, helping to clean and sterilize wounds. Second, it provides fast pain relief, numbing the affected area almost instantly. These properties make it an essential survival resource, especially in situations where access to medical supplies is limited.

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However, there’s one caveat to keep in mind when harvesting cattails. These plants have a tendency to absorb toxins and pollutants from their surroundings. This makes them excellent for cleaning up contaminated water, but it also means you need to exercise caution when foraging them. Avoid harvesting cattails from areas near industrial zones or other sources of pollution. A good indicator of a healthy, non-polluted area is the presence of insects. If insects are actively living around the cattails, it’s usually a sign that the plants are free from harmful toxins. Additionally, to be extra safe, collect the gel from the parts of the plant that are above water, as the water itself may be contaminated.

How to Extract and Use Cattail Gel

The process of extracting cattail gel is simple and quick. Start by pulling out one of the cattail leaves or cutting it with a knife. Once you’ve exposed the inside of the stalk, use your thumb to scrape off the clear gel. The gel can be applied immediately to any area that needs pain relief. Whether

you’re dealing with a cut, a

bug bite, or even something

like a cheek bite, cattail gel

will numb the pain and help

clean the wound.

While the gel has no known

side effects, it’s important

to remember that it’s

meant for external use

only. Avoid ingesting it and

keep it as a powerful topical medicine. If you’re planning to use cattail gel regularly or store it for emergencies, consider collecting a good amount and keeping it in a clean glass jar. This ensures you’ll have it on hand even when cattails aren’t in season.

The Versatility of Cattails

Cattails truly deserve their reputation as a survivalist’s best friend. Beyond their anesthetic gel, they provide food, fire-making materials, insulation, and so much more. But their gel, in particular, elevates them from being a useful plant to an essential one. In the wild, where pain relief and wound care are critical, this natural anesthetic is an invaluable resource.

By learning how to harvest and use cattail gel, you’ll not only have access to fast and effective pain relief but also gain a deeper appreciation for the incredible resources nature provides.

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PART VII:

WILD SKILLS

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The Only 5 Knots You Need to

Know in The Wild

Knots are an essential skill for anyone venturing into the wild. A well-tied knot can be a lifesaver, while a poorly tied one can lead to serious problems. Knots are used for a wide variety of survival tasks, including building shelters, carrying supplies, climbing, setting traps, and crafting weapons. Their reliability is critical in every scenario. Mastering knot-tying not only enhances your survival skills but also allows you to pass this timeless knowledge down to others.

In survival situations, practical knots can be classified by function: a Stopper is a knot designed to prevent the end of a rope from slipping through a hole, a Loop is a knot that secures part of a rope to an object, a Hitch on the other hand is a knot designed to secure part of a rope to an object by tightening the rope around that object, meanwhile, a Bend knot is used to join two rope ends, which may either belong to the same rope or two different ropes, ensuring a strong and reliable connection.

Stopper Knot with a Loop

Understanding rope terminology is also essential The Running or Working End refers to the rope segment actively used to tie the knot, while the Standing or Bitter End refers to the portion not involved in tying.

In the following pages you will find 5 knots that are very important to know by heart, as they will help you in the wild with many tasks and might even save your life

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1. The Clove Hitch Knot

The Clove Hitch Knot is a

versatile and easily

adjustable knot used to

secure a rope to an object. It

is commonly employed to

start and finish lashings, such

as those needed for survival

shelters. This knot does not

slip, and either end of the

rope can serve as the lifting

point.

How to Tie the Clove Hitch:

• Wrap the working end of the rope around the anchor object.

• Cross the line over itself and wrap it around the anchor again.

• Slip the working end underneath the last wrap and pull both ends tight.

For a quicker method, create two loops in the middle of the rope by twisting your hand away from you twice. Place the

second loop on top of the first

and slide them over the

anchor, tightening the rope as

needed. This approach is

particularly useful when

attaching the knot to a pipe or

similar object.

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2. The Square Knot (Reef Knot)

The Square Knot is ideal for tying two ends of

a rope together. It is often used for

bandages, packages, and survival cordage.

However, it is essential to use ropes of the

same diameter and type to ensure the knot's

effectiveness.

How to Tie the Square Knot:

• Cross the right end of the rope under

the left and wrap it over to form an overhand knot.

• Then cross the left end under the right and wrap it over again to form the second

knot.

• Pull both ends to tighten the knot.

Ensure the knot is symmetrical and that the tails are long enough to prevent slipping. Avoid using this knot with ropes of different diameters or materials, as it may come undone.

Something else to keep in mind is that the more flexible the rope the easier it will be to work with using the Square Knot. Twisted rope probably works best for this type of knot as those little twists in the rope really stick and hold.

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3. The Sheet Bend Knot

The Sheet Bend is the preferred knot for

joining two types of ropes, particularly

when they are of different diameters or

materials. It is simple to tie and can be

made more secure by doubling the bend.

It is valued for its strength and simplicity,

making it a go-to choice in survival

situations and outdoor activities.

How to Tie the Sheet Bend:

• Form a bight (a loop created by folding the rope back on itself) with the thicker rope.

• Pass the thinner rope through the bight, wrap it around the bight, and tuck it under

itself.

• Pull tight to secure the knot. For added security, wrap the thinner rope around the

bight a second time before tucking it under.

The Sheet Bend Knot is a versatile and essential survival tool, used to securely join ropes of different sizes or materials, making it ideal for extending ropes, building shelters, crafting nets, or creating improvised tools and structures in the wild.

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4. The Bowline

The Bowline is a fixed-loop knot

that does not slip, making it

ideal for securing tarps,

climbing, lifesaving operations,

and snare traps. It is often

referred to as the "king of knots"

due to its strength and

versatility.

How to Tie the Bowline:

• Create an overhand loop near the working end of the rope.

• Pass the running end through the bottom of the loop, around the working end, and

back through the top of the loop.

• Pull tight to form a secure U-shaped loop.

A faster method involves wrapping the running end around the working end to form a loop. Rotate your wrist to twist the rope, then pass the running end through the loop and tighten.

The Bowline is particularly useful in rescue situations. For example, if someone falls into a ravine, a large Bowline loop can be thrown to them, allowing them to secure it around their armpits for extraction. In personal emergencies, tie the Bowline around yourself for rescue purposes.

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5. The Figure 8 Knot

The Figure 8 Knot is one of the easiest and

most reliable knots for survival. It is simple

to tie, easy to untie, and highly versatile. This

knot can handle significant loads without

slipping or damaging the rope, making it a

favorite for tasks requiring a fixed loop or

connection point.

How to Tie the Figure 8 Knot:

• Form a bight in the rope and drape it over your hand.

• Twist the rope twice, creating two loops.

• Pass the running end through the loop and pull tight to form the figure 8 shape.

A variation called the Figure 8 Bend can be used to join two ropes. Start with a loose Figure 8 knot, then run the second rope through it, following the same path as the first rope. Pull both ends tight to secure.

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Mastering these essential knots ensures you are prepared for various survival tasks, from securing shelter to setting traps or facilitating rescue operations. With practice, these knots will become second nature, providing reliability and versatility in any situation.

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How to Find Toilet Paper in

the Wild

Toilet paper might not be a subject you think about often, but when you’re in the wilderness and run out of the usual supplies, knowing how to find natural substitutes becomes essential. Fortunately, several plants in the wild serve as excellent alternatives, providing comfort, cleanliness, and even additional benefits.

Mullein

Mullein is one of the most versatile plants to use as natural toilet paper. Known for its furry, soft leaves, it’s easy to identify and widely available. Mullein can be found along trail edges, country roads, meadows, fence rows, forest openings, and even industrial areas. Its tall flower stalks with yellow blooms can grow up to six feet (1.82 meters) high, making it hard to miss. In its first year, the plant appears as a rosette on the ground, while the flower stalks develop in its second year.

There are no poisonous look-alikes for mullein, which makes it a safe option for novice foragers. Both young and mature plants are suitable for use. Beyond its utility as a toilet paper substitute, mullein leaves have medicinal properties and can be used to alleviate lung and respiratory issues. In some cases, the leaves are dried and smoked to open airways and provide relief.

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Woolly Lamb’s Ear

Another excellent plant to consider is Woolly Lamb’s Ear. Its soft, fuzzy leaves are about four inches (10 centimeters) by two inches (5 centimeters), making it a comfortable and effective option for cleaning. In addition to its texture, Lamb’s Ear has natural antibacterial properties and has been used historically as a wound dressing on battlefields. It also has analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties, which can be utilized in poultices for pain relief.

Although some people confuse Lamb’s Ear with Mullein, there is an easy way to tell them apart. Mullein grows in a rosette, while Lamb’s Ear forms clusters.

This plant is

not native to North America but has spread

widely after escaping cultivation, and it thrives in

wild areas. For convenience, you can grow

Lamb’s Ear in your own garden and preserve the

leaves for future use.

Large-Leaf Aster

Commonly referred to as

"lumberjack toilet paper," the

Large-Leaf Aster is a reliable

option used by lumberjacks

in the Northeast and Great

Lakes regions. This plant

forms a green carpet

beneath trees and is easily

identifiable by its heart-

shaped, broad, and soft

leaves. During spring, it

produces small violet

flowers. Large-Leaf Aster

typically grows at the edges of forests under large, shady trees, making these locations ideal for foraging.

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Thimbleberry Bush

The Thimbleberry Bush is

another excellent natural

option, often called the "Toilet

Paper of the Forest." Its soft,

fuzzy, five-lobed leaves are large

- often bigger than a person’s

hand - and provide an effective

solution in emergency

situations. Unlike some other

berry plants, Thimbleberry

bushes have no thorns, making

them particularly user-friendly. In addition to their utility, these bushes produce delicious berries that are popular with both humans and wildlife.

Moss

Moss is a universally available and highly effective natural toilet paper. It is soft, absorbent, and contains natural iodine, making it a germ-resistant option. Moss grows widely across various regions and is not limited to the north side of trees, as commonly believed. While distinguishing between moss species is difficult, it’s unnecessary, as all types of moss are suitable for this purpose.

Preserving Natural Toilet Paper

To ensure you’re always prepared, the leaves of these plants can be preserved for future use. Dry the leaves flat and store them in Mason jars, vacuum-sealed bags, or Ziploc bags. When needed, the leaves can be rehydrated with water, although many varieties regain moisture naturally when used. While it’s often easier to use fresh leaves found in the wild, having preserved options on hand can provide peace of mind during your adventures.

In the wilderness, resourcefulness is key and knowing which plants can serve as substitutes for toilet paper can make your outdoor experience more comfortable and hygienic. Whether you choose Mullein, Lamb’s Ear, Large-Leaf Aster, Thimbleberry, or moss, nature provides excellent alternatives for an essential need.

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The First Thing You Should

Do If You Come Face to Face

with a Bear

Encountering a dangerous animal in the wild can be a harrowing experience, but with the right knowledge and preparation, you can significantly increase your chances of staying safe. Respect for wildlife is the foundational rule, as these animals are often defending their territory and behaving instinctively. Understanding how to react to specific animals is crucial for survival.

Animals are typically averse to loud, unfamiliar noises. Carrying a metal cup and banging it with a stick or making loud vocal noises, such as singing or shouting, can alert animals to your presence and deter them. Never turn your back on a wild animal, as doing so makes you appear like prey, triggering their instinct to chase. Additionally, food must always be stored securely. Use airtight containers and keep your food 300 to 600 feet ( 90-180 meters) away from your campsite, elevated off the ground. Tying it to a strong branch, high enough to be out of reach, is an effective method. Alternatively, you can use a wilderness fridge for storage, which will be covered in another course.

Grizzly bears

Bears are one of the most feared

wild animals, and encounters

with them require specific

strategies depending on the

species. Grizzlies are a subspecies of brown bears, so

you can apply the same tactics for

both. They are one of the most

aggressive bears, so playing dead

is often the only option. You won’t

easily scare them away and trying

can prove fatal as it will only make them angry. They can run at speeds of about 35 miles per hour (55 kilometers per hour) and can weigh up to 600 pounds (270 kilograms). With either grizzlies or black bears, please don’t try to run away. They will easily outrun you. Also, don’t try to climb up a tree either. They can also climb trees better than you. For a grizzly intent on charging you, the only thing that can work is to play dead. Try to be as

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unthreatening as you can be. Get into the fetal position, wrap your hands around your neck, and lie on your stomach. 99% of the

time the bear will move on. Just keep still

until the bear leaves your area. Keep in

mind that most human injuries from grizzly

bears are caused by females acting

aggressively to protect their young. So, if

you ever see bear cubs in the wild, you

should move away from them as fast as

possible, as their mother is very likely

nearby.

Black bears

To tell the difference between

grizzlies and black bears, you can’t

just go by the color of their fur, as

black bear’s fur can be black, brown,

cinnamon-like, or rarely even white.

One of the best ways to tell the

difference is to look for a hump on

their shoulders. Grizzlies have them,

the other bears don’t. Also, black

bears have a straight, dog-like

muzzle, pointed ears, and dark

claws. Grizzly bears have a dished face, rounded ears, and long, light-colored claws.

The good news is that although black bears are more common than all other species, they are the easiest ones to scare away. So, stand your ground with them. Look as intimidating as possible. You can even throw things near it – not at it. Make the bear feel threatened by you in any way you can. Let it know you are a big, scary person. Pick something up, and yell at it. If that fails, try the metal-banging trick mentioned earlier. And if it attacks, fight back and aim to stab or shoot it in the neck or head. Hopefully it won’t ever come to that.

What you should know is that if a bear stands on its rear legs and its ears are forward, this means it’s just curious and it’s not an act of aggression. Black bears are known to bluff charge. This means they’ll run full speed at you only to then suddenly stop and back away at the last minute. There have been reports of black bears doing this even 20 times. If it does this, don’t run away. Instead, back away slowly and act as intimidating as you can. This will show it that you’re not messing around.

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Polar bears

If you happen to be way up north,

there’s always a chance you will

come face to face with a polar bear.

Unlike the other we’ve covered, if

you cross paths with a polar bear, it

will most likely see you as prey and

not a predator. So don’t turn your

back on it, because it will only start

chasing you and from that moment

you don’t stand a chance.

Your best option is to stand tall and

yell as loudly as you can. Unlike the black bear, this type of bear doesn’t bluff charge, so you need to be prepared to fight back if it starts running at you. Try to kick it with your legs and fists and aim for sensitive areas like the nose and eyes. If you have a weapon, aim for the brain. You don’t want to just wound it as it will still be able to rip you apart.

Wolves & Coyotes

Although they are quite different, people tend to confuse wolves for coyotes and vice-versa. In short, you can tell them apart as the wolves are bigger, have blockier heads and smaller ears, have longer legs and bigger paws, have slightly sloping backs, and can have white, black, or reddish coats. Coyotes, on the other hand are smaller, have pointier pouts and bigger ears, are longer from nose to tail, but have shorter legs, are somewhat fox-like in their build, and very rarely, their fur is black. As for their tracks, the wolves’ can be nearly twice the size of a coyote.

Both species may attack especially from the back, by targeting the legs of their prey. If confronted by wolves or coyotes, do not run, as wolves can run at speeds of up to 30 miles per hour (50 kilometers per hour). Instead, stare directly at the animal and act aggressively. Use sticks, rocks, or any other available objects to defend yourself. If a tree is nearby, climbing it can offer safety, but this must be done quickly to avoid being bitten.

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Cougars

Cougars, or mountain lions, generally avoid

humans but can become dangerous if

provoked or stalking their prey. If you

encounter a cougar, try to provide an escape

route for the animal. If it doesn’t leave, hold

your ground and maintain eye contact. Make

yourself appear larger by raising your arms,

holding up objects, or opening your jacket.

Never crouch or bend over, as this can make

you look like prey. If the cougar acts

aggressively, wave your arms and speak

loudly to assert dominance. Throw objects if

necessary to deter it.

Wild animals are not inherently aggressive but are often protecting their territory or acting on instinct. By staying alert, respecting their behavior and following these strategies, you can safely navigate encounters with dangerous wildlife.

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How to Make Yourself

Invisible in the Wild

Mastering invisibility in the wilderness isn’t about vanishing into thin air—it’s about blending seamlessly into the natural world. Whether you’re stalking game, avoiding a potential threat, or navigating sensitive areas unnoticed, the key to success lies in moving with the rhythm of nature and understanding how the forest "sees." Nature is quiet and slow, and to truly disappear, you must respect and adapt to this unhurried pace.

Animals and even expert trackers

rely on spotting things that don’t

belong - movement, unnatural

shapes, smells, and sounds. The

birds, in particular, act as the

forest’s alarm system. A sudden

noise or fast movement will send

them into a frenzy, alerting

everything in the area. To

become invisible, you must work

with nature, not against it.

Moving Stealthily

Movement is one of the first things that can give you away. In the wilderness, move slowly and deliberately. Take one or two steps, pause, look, and listen before continuing. This mimics how wild animals traverse their environment. Each step reveals a new line of sight through the trees, and by pausing frequently, you avoid drawing unnecessary attention. Quick motions are far more noticeable than slow, steady ones. Most wild animals are attuned to spotting movement rather than specific shapes or colors. By pacing yourself and avoiding sudden shifts, you’ll blend into the natural rhythm of the forest. Remember, animals rarely look behind them - they focus on scanning what’s ahead. Use this to your advantage.

Camouflaging Your Form

It’s not your clothes’ color alone that gives you away - it’s the human silhouette. The recognizable shape of a head, shoulders, and torso can immediately stand out against the natural environment. To disappear, you must break up your outline and mimic the patterns and textures of your surroundings. Patterns that replicate light filtering through the forest canopy work best. This is the principle behind the success of animals like jaguars, whose spotted coats render them nearly invisible in dappled jungle light. Even to humans, their shape becomes indistinguishable when immersed in dense vegetation.

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If you don’t have specialized camouflage gear, you can improvise. Smear mud or clay over your body as a base layer, then roll in forest debris - leaves, dirt, and other natural litter - to create a textured, broken pattern. This technique not only conceals your form but also helps mask your scent, an essential factor in avoiding detection by wildlife.

Scent Control

Scent is a dead giveaway in the wilderness. Wild animals, and humans to a certain extent, can detect smells that don’t belong. Strong odors like tobacco, perfume, gasoline, or even the aroma of cooking can reveal your location long before you’re seen.

To eliminate these artificial smells, wash your clothes in scent-neutralizing detergent and dry them outside where they can absorb natural environmental odors. Avoid bringing strongly scented items into the wild, and if you’re already out there, masking your scent with mud or other natural materials is a quick and effective solution.

Thermal Vision and Advanced Challenges

The rules of invisibility in the wild apply just as much to other humans as they do to animals. However, when dealing with modern technology like thermal imaging, additional precautions are necessary. Thermal vision detects the heat signature emitted by your body, rendering traditional camouflage ineffective.

To counter this, you can use Mylar foil or an emergency blanket to block or disperse your body’s heat. If you don’t have these materials, staying near heat-absorbing objects like bodies of water or areas with moist air can help reduce your visibility. Specialized gear like Ghillie suits, especially military-grade versions, can also mask your thermal signature by breaking up the heat pattern emitted from your body.

Listening to the Language of the Forest

The wilderness has its own language, and to become invisible, you must learn to speak it. Mimic its pace, its quiet, and its natural rhythm. Slow your breathing, still your movements, and let the forest absorb you into its backdrop.

Mastering invisibility isn’t easy, but it taps into an ancient skill set buried deep within human DNA. Our ancestors were natural hunters and survivors, perfectly attuned to their surroundings. By learning and practicing these skills, you can unlock that dormant ability and truly become one with the wild.

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How to Make Weapons in the

Wild

Crafting weapons in the wilderness is an essential skill for both hunting and self-defense. Whether you need to catch food or protect yourself, these primitive tools can be lifesaving. This guide will show you how to create three fundamental weapons: a slingshot, a spear, and a wild axe. Each of these can be made using natural materials and basic tools, ensuring you're prepared for survival situations.

Slingshot

The slingshot is a deceptively

simple weapon that is both

effective and easy to make.

While many people associate

slingshots with childhood

games, they are powerful enough

to kill small game like birds or

rabbits when used correctly.

The first step in making a

slingshot is finding the perfect handle or "Y stick." Look for a hardwood tree like dogwood and find a symmetrical Y-shaped branch. The prongs should be thick and evenly sized, with enough space between them to comfortably fit four fingers.

Once you've cut the branch to size, smooth out the edges of the prongs with a knife to prevent damage to the bands you'll attach later. You can purchase slingshot bands with a pouch online, or you can improvise one using strong rubber or elastic material. Attach the bands securely to the prongs, ensuring they are tight enough to hold the tension needed to launch projectiles.

The slingshot is now ready to use. You can easily find ammunition like small stones near creeks or rivers, making this weapon an excellent option for survival.

Hunting and Defense Spear

A spear is a versatile tool for hunting and defense, offering both reach and power. There are two main types of spears you can make in the wild: the three-quarter lance and the full-length lance. A three-quarter lance is shorter and doubles as a walking stick, making

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it a practical choice for dense environments. A full-

length lance, on the other hand, is better suited for

open areas and offers greater reach.

To make a spear, start by finding a sturdy sapling or

branch and cut it to the desired length. For a three-

quarter lance, the spear should extend slightly

above your head. For a full-length lance, it should

reach as high as you can stretch your arm while

standing on your toes.

Sharpen the tip of the spear using a knife, but avoid

making it too sharp, as this can cause the tip to

break. Strip the bark from the top 6 inches (15

centimeters) or so of the spear, and then fire-

harden it for durability.

Fire Hardening

This is a crucial step in enhancing the strength and longevity of wooden weapons. After shaping your tool - whether a spear or another

wooden implement - strip the bark from the area to

be hardened and grease it with a protective

substance, such as animal fat or any available

lubricant. This not only prevents the wood from

cracking but also makes the hardening process

more effective.

Hold the greased portion of the weapon over a fire, maintaining a safe distance to avoid burning the wood. Rotate it slowly to ensure even

heating. The wood will darken as it hardens. Once

the desired hardness is achieved, use a smooth

stone or similar object to compress the heated

fibers. Rub the stone firmly along the surface,

creating a polished, durable finish.

Fire-hardened tools and weapons are significantly more resistant to wear and breakage, making them invaluable in survival scenarios.

Wild Axe

An axe is a critical tool for chopping wood, building shelters, or even as a weapon. Crafting one in the wild requires both creativity and resourcefulness.

Begin by finding a sharp-edged stone like flint or quartzite. If the stone isn’t already sharp, chip away at it using another rock to create a cutting edge. Once you have your blade,

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locate a sturdy, straight stick about 2–3 feet (60-90 centimeters) long to serve as the handle. Carve a notch at one end of the stick to fit the stone blade, ensuring it’s deep enough to hold the blade securely.

Place the stone blade into the notch and

lash it tightly using vine, string, or

improvised cordage. Wrapping the lashings

in an "X" pattern will provide extra stability.

Wet the string slightly before tying it; as it

dries, it will shrink and tighten around the

blade. For added durability, apply tree sap or

resin to the lashings. This reinforces the

bond, ensuring your axe is strong enough for

basic chopping tasks.

Test your axe on softer materials first, and if needed, sharpen the blade further. A well-made can handle a variety of survival tasks, from chopping wood to preparing game.

Mastering the art of crafting weapons in the wild is not just a survival skill - it’s a way of connecting with the resourcefulness of our ancestors. Whether you’re hunting with a slingshot, defending yourself with a spear, or chopping wood with a handmade axe, these tools are invaluable in the great outdoors.

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How to Use Your Clothes to

Survive

When you’re in a survival situation, the clothes on your back can be more than just a layer of protection - they can become essential tools to help you hunt, defend yourself, find water, or even signal for rescue.

Using Socks for a Slingshot

A sturdy sock can be turned into a makeshift slingshot. All you need is the sock itself and two sticks to act as supports. Stretch the sock between the sticks, and you have a tool capable of launching small projectiles. This can be useful for hunting small animals or as a form of self-defense.

Shoelaces for Snare Traps

Shoelaces are surprisingly versatile. You can use them to create simple noose traps to catch small game. Just tie the shoelace into a loop, secure it along an animal trail, and let it act as a snare. With careful positioning, it can help you secure food in the wild.

Pants as a Life Ring

Your pants can double as a

flotation device. Tie the

ankle ends tightly, then

swing the pants through

the air to trap air inside.

This creates an

improvised life ring that

can help you stay afloat if

you’re crossing a body of

water.

Using Pants as a Fish Trap

Keeping the ankle ends tied, you can place rocks inside the pant legs for weight and submerge them in a stream or river. This creates a funnel-like trap that allows fish to swim in but not out, providing you with an effective tool for catching food.

T-Shirt Water Filter

A simple T-shirt can be folded into several layers to act as a water filter. While this won’t remove pathogens, it can filter out dirt and debris from water, making it cleaner before boiling. This is an essential first step in water purification.

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Clothing Strips for Bandages and Dressings

If you need to treat wounds, any piece of clothing can be torn into strips and used as bandages, tourniquets, or dressings. Cotton or other natural fibers are particularly effective for this purpose.

Clothing as Shelter

Your clothing can also be repurposed to create shelter. Stretch a shirt, jacket, or poncho between two sticks to form a roof. This can offer basic protection from the elements if no other materials are available.

Turning Cloth into Cordage

Long strips of cloth can be twisted and braided to create strong cordage. This makeshift rope can be used to tie, bind, or secure items in a variety of situations, adding versatility to your survival toolkit.

Bright Clothing as a Signal Flag

If you have brightly colored clothing, it can be used as a signal flag. Wave it to attract attention from rescuers or tie it up high where it’s visible from a distance. This simple technique can dramatically increase your chances of being found.

Clothing for Fire Starting

Natural fibers like cotton are excellent for

starting fires. You can scrape your natural

clothing with a knife and get some lint or you can

fuzz the material to create tinder or char it to

make charcloth, which makes igniting a fire

much easier. This can be a lifesaving tool in cold

or damp conditions.

Collecting Rainwater or Dew

Spread your clothing out overnight to collect dew or rainwater. Then, wring it into a container and boil the water to make it safe to drink. This is a quick and simple way to gather drinking water in the wild.

Improvised Foot and Hand Protection

If your shoes wear out or you need extra protection for your hands, wrap them in strips of cloth from your pants or shirts. This can shield your feet from rough terrain or protect your hands while handling sharp or hot objects.

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Clothing for Camouflage

Green or earth-toned clothing can help you blend into your surroundings. For additional camouflage, smear your clothes with mud, leaves, and other debris to break up your outline.

Improvised Backpack

A pair of pants or a shirt can be tied at the ends to create a sling or makeshift bag. This allows you to bundle and carry items easily, keeping your hands free for other tasks.

Clothing as a Weapon

A sock filled with rocks or other heavy objects can be tied to a stick or swung as an improvised weapon. It’s not elegant, but it can be an effective means of self-defense in desperate situations.

The clothes on your back are more than just a barrier against the elements. They are multipurpose tools that can be adapted to meet a variety of survival needs. Whether it’s creating shelter, finding food, purifying water, or defending yourself, your clothing can become an essential resource in the wild. Knowing how to repurpose what you already have can make all the difference in a survival situation.

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How to Make Your Own

Containers in the Wild

Surviving in the wilderness often requires ingenuity and resourcefulness, especially when it comes to making tools and containers for storing, cooking, or carrying water and food.

The Birch Bark

Birch bark is one of the most versatile materials

you can use in the wild. Not only is it lightweight

and flexible, but it’s also naturally waterproof,

making it ideal for crafting bowls, baskets, and

even water containers.

To start, look for young birch trees with smooth

bark and minimal black markings. Choose a

section of bark that’s at least 1 millimeter thick

and measures around 12 x 18 inches (30-45

centimeters). Use a knife to make a shallow cut in

the bark, in the shape of a rectangle, ensuring you

don’t damage the tree too deeply. Peel the bark

away carefully.

Once you have your bark, clean it thoroughly to remove debris, then cut it into a neat rectangle. Warm the bark slightly over a fire to make it pliable without burning it. Shape it into a container by folding the edges into a rectangular or cylindrical form. Secure the edges using natural cordage like vines, willow bark, or cattails. You can also use small wooden pins to hold the shape.

For added durability, bind the seams with additional cordage or secure the edges with split sticks that press the bark together. This container is perfect for carrying water, food, or even boiling liquids when placed over hot coals.

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Weaving a Birch Bark Basket

If you want a larger or more structured container, you can weave a basket from birch bark strips. Start by cutting the bark into long, uniform strips about ¾ inch wide. Soak them in warm water to make them more pliable. Lay the strips in a crisscross pattern to form the basket's base, then weave the sides upward.

Use the same natural cordage or split sticks to secure the edges. Trim any excess bark to create a neat finish.

Crafting Clay Pots

Clay is another excellent natural resource for making containers, especially for cooking and carrying water. You can find clay near rivers, lakes, or ponds—look for its smooth, plastic-like texture and reddish or orange-brown color.

To prepare the clay, knead it thoroughly to remove air bubbles. If it’s dry, add water and mix until you have a malleable

consistency. Roll the clay into

coils or form it into a ball, then

shape it into a pot using one of

two methods:

Coil Method: Start with a flat,

circular base. Roll long coils of

clay and layer them on top of

each other to build the walls of

your pot. Pinch and smooth the

coils together as you go.

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Pinch Pot Method: Roll the

clay into a ball, then press

your thumb into the center to

create an opening. Use your

fingers to pinch and shape the

pot, ensuring the walls are

even.

Once your pot is shaped, let it

air-dry for 24-48 hours in a

shaded area. To harden the

pot, fire it in a bed of hot coals

for 2-3 hours. This will make it sturdy and durable enough for carrying or boiling water.

Improvised Leaf or Grass Containers

If you need a quick and temporary container, use large, pliable leaves or long grasses. For example, banana leaves or other broad foliage can be folded and tied with natural cordage to create a makeshift container. This works well for short-term storage or for boiling water by placing the leaf container in hot coals.

Hollowing Out Wood for Bowls

Another method for creating a durable container is to hollow out a piece of wood. Find a thick, dry log and use hot coals to burn out the center. Scrape away the charred wood with a knife or sharp stone until you have a bowl-shaped depression. This method requires time and patience but results in a sturdy and reusable container.

Using Coconut Shells or Gourds

If you’re in a tropical environment, coconuts or gourds make excellent natural containers. Simply remove the flesh and seeds, then clean the interior. These are ready-made containers that require minimal effort and are perfect for carrying water or food.

Learning how to make containers in the wild is a vital survival skill that ensures you can store and transport essential resources. Whether you’re crafting a birch bark bowl,

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weaving a basket, or shaping a clay pot, the key is to use the materials around you creatively and effectively. Practice these techniques before you need them, so you’re prepared for any situation.

Weaving a Basket from Twigs and Sticks

If birch bark isn’t readily available, you can make a durable basket using twigs and sticks. This method is ideal for areas with abundant willow, hazel, or other flexible branches. Begin by collecting long, pliable twigs or sticks of similar thickness. Soak the twigs in water for several hours to make them easier to bend without snapping.

Start by forming a base with a sturdy circular or rectangular frame. Use thicker sticks for this foundation and bind them together at the corners with natural cordage or vines. Next, insert several upright sticks evenly spaced along the edge of the frame. These will act as the basket’s vertical supports.

Once the supports are in place, take thinner, more flexible twigs and begin weaving them horizontally around the vertical supports. Alternate weaving the twigs over and under the supports to create a tight, interlocking pattern. As you add each new twig, ensure it overlaps the end of the previous one to maintain a continuous weave.

When you’ve reached the desired height, tuck the loose ends of the weaving twigs into the basket's rim or trim them neatly. To finish the basket, bend the vertical support sticks over the edge and weave them into the existing pattern to create a sturdy top rim. This twig basket is strong enough to carry food, tools, or other supplies and can withstand rugged outdoor conditions.

Ropes Hiding Beneath Your Feet

Nature often provides solutions to problems you didn't even know you'd face. Beneath the forest floor lies one of the most versatile survival tools you can find - roots. Many tree roots, especially those of spruce trees, are naturally strong and flexible, making them ideal for use as rope or cordage in a survival situation.

To harvest these hidden treasures, start by finding an area where tree roots are visible or close to the surface. Look near eroded stream banks, fallen trees, or soft soil. Spruce roots are particularly useful because they are strong, durable, and easy to process. Once you’ve located a root, gently dig around it to expose a length of about a few feet. Use your knife or hands to cut the root as close to the base as possible.

To prepare the root for use, start by peeling off its outer layer. This can often be done easily with just your fingernail or the edge of a knife. If the root is thick, split it into thinner strands by carefully inserting your knife and pulling the root apart. Once split, coil the strands together as you would with a rope to give them additional strength.

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To make the roots more flexible and

long-lasting, soak them in water. This

could be a river, a stream, or even a

container you have on hand. The

soaking process softens the fibers

and makes them easier to

manipulate without breaking. After a

few hours or even overnight, your

root cordage will be ready to use for

tasks such as lashing, binding, or

crafting.

Spruce roots are particularly reliable for this purpose, but many other tree roots work as well. The next time you're out in the wild, remember that some of the strongest and most durable survival tools may be hiding just beneath your feet.

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How to Make a Raft

Constructing a raft in the wilderness is a critical survival skill that extends beyond simply navigating across bodies of water. A raft, when built thoughtfully, becomes a multipurpose tool, providing not only transportation but also a mobile base of operations, a temporary shelter, and even a platform for securing food and signaling for help.

In survival scenarios, this knowledge can make the difference between vulnerability and resilience, offering solutions to multiple challenges presented by the natural environment.

The foundation of any effective

raft begins with the careful

selection of materials. Logs or

poles that are roughly 4 inches

(10 centimeters) in diameter

and approximately 8 feet (244

centimeters) in length are ideal

for ensuring buoyancy and

structural strength. Lightweight

logs are particularly important, as those that are waterlogged or overly dense will compromise the raft’s ability to float effectively.

Using tools such as a handsaw or hatchet, saplings can be harvested and adjusted to the desired dimensions. Rope or cordage plays an equally vital role in holding the structure together, with durable materials like paracord being highly recommended. In its absence, natural substitutes such as strong vines or fibrous bark can serve as effective alternatives. While optional, a tarp can significantly enhance the raft’s utility, especially when weather conditions demand protection from rain or wind.

Before construction begins, testing the logs for buoyancy ensures that the chosen materials will perform as needed.

Once the logs are verified to float

well, the building process starts

with laying out the framework.

Two logs are placed parallel to

one another, spaced roughly 8

feet (2.4 meters) apart. Two

additional logs are then laid

perpendicularly across the first

pair, forming a rectangular base.

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The logs are secured together using strong knots, such as the bowline, and cordage is wrapped in an X-pattern for maximum stability. Each corner of the structure is reinforced in this manner to create a solid frame. Additional logs are added to fill the base, tied securely to the framework in the same X-pattern, ensuring the surface is stable and capable of supporting weight evenly.

To enhance the raft's durability, a

secondary frame can be constructed on

top of the base. This involves placing

four additional logs along the edges of

the raft, secured similarly to the primary

frame. This additional layer provides

reinforcement, ensuring the raft

remains intact even under stress from

rough waters or heavy loads. Once the

base and reinforcement are complete,

the raft is functional and ready for basic use, but its potential can be expanded further with a few strategic modifications.

Adding a shelter to the raft transforms it

into a more versatile survival tool. Using

thinner logs, two arches are constructed by tying pairs of logs

together at their tops to form an inverted

V-shape. These arches are spaced

approximately three feet (0.9 meters)

apart and connected by a horizontal log

tied securely across their peaks.

A tarp or similar material can then be draped over the arches and tied down to create a simple tent-like structure. This addition provides much-needed protection from environmental elements, making the raft suitable for longer journeys or extended periods on the water.

The ability to steer the raft is essential,

and crafting a paddle is a straightforward process. A thin log

serves as the handle, while a flat piece

of wood, about 12 by 6 inches (30 by 15

centimeters) in size, is attached to one

end. This is accomplished by wrapping

cordage around the log and board in an

X-pattern, creating a secure connection.

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The paddle allows for effective navigation and maneuverability, ensuring the raft can be guided along the desired path, whether on calm lakes or flowing rivers.

Once completed, the raft becomes far more than just a means of transportation. It acts as a mobile base, allowing its user to

engage in essential survival activities

directly from the water. A small stone

platform can be built on the raft to

safely start a fire, enabling the cooking

of fish, boiling of water, or simply

providing warmth during cold nights.

The raft also grants access to prime

fishing locations, as it can be paddled to spots that are otherwise unreachable from the shore. This increases the likelihood of securing food, an invaluable advantage in a survival scenario.

In addition to its utility for food and shelter, the raft offers a measure of safety. Water acts as a natural barrier against predators, providing a secure retreat from potential threats on land. The raft can also serve as a temporary campsite, anchored near the shore for convenience. In situations where signaling for help becomes necessary, the raft’s platform can be used to send smoke signals, reflect sunlight using mirrors or metallic objects, or display brightly colored materials to attract attention. Its elevated position and mobility enhance the effectiveness of these signals, increasing the chances of being spotted by rescuers.

The raft’s versatility underscores its value as a survival tool. It conserves energy by allowing the water’s current to carry it downstream, making travel across vast or challenging terrain far easier. It also functions as a sustainable resource hub, enabling its user to fish, cook, and rest in relative safety and comfort.

Whether used as a

platform for essential

survival tasks, a means

of transportation, or a

safe haven, the raft

becomes an

indispensable asset in

the wilderness. Its

construction is not

merely an exercise in

survival craftsmanship

but a vital step toward self-reliance and adaptability in the face of nature’s challenges.

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Table of Contents

Disclaimer .........................................................................................

Part I: FUNDAMENTALS ...............................................................................

Packing 101: Preparing Your Survival Backpack ......................................................

How to Find Your Way Out of the Wild ...............................................................

How to Signal for Help .............................................................................

Part II: SHELTER ...................................................................................

How to Choose the Best Location for Your Shelter ...................................................

5 Types of Tarp Shelters ...........................................................................

The Earth Shelter...................................................................................

Natural Shelters to Look for in the Wild ...........................................................

How to Build an Underground Shelter ................................................................

The 1-Month Shelter from Alone .....................................................................

The Forever Shelter ................................................................................

Part III: WATER ....................................................................................

How to Find Drinking Water in the Wild .............................................................

How to purify water in the wild ....................................................................

How to get water from plants .......................................................................

Part IV: FIRE .....................................................................................

How to start a fire even in the rain ...............................................................

How to Start a Fire in the Wild ....................................................................

The Fire That (Almost) Never Ends (Self-feeding Fire)...............................................

The Smokeless Fire .................................................................................

Swedish Fire .......................................................................................

Teepee Fire ........................................................................................

Keyhole fire .......................................................................................

Star Fire ..........................................................................................

Lean-to-Fire .......................................................................................

Upside-Down Fire ...................................................................................

Trench Fire ........................................................................................

PART V: FOOD .......................................................................................

How To Make and Set Traps for Small Game ...........................................................

Fishing in the Wild ................................................................................

How To Make a Wilderness Smokehouse ................................................................

How to Make a Wild Fridge ..........................................................................

7 Edible Plants You Should Forage for and Their Poisonous Lookalikes ........................ 92

12 Edible Fruit Bushes and Trees and Their Poisonous Lookalikes ............................... 96

7 Edible Mushrooms You Should Forage and Their Poisonous Lookalikes .................. 102

The Best Trees to Tap for Food and Water ...........................................................

How to Cook in the Wild ............................................................................

PART VI: FIRST AID AND REMEDIES IN THE WILD .................................................. 112

How to Deal with Extreme Situations ................................................................

How to Make a Tourniquet ...........................................................................

How to Make a Splint from Natural Materials ........................................................

Infections in the Wild: What to Do .................................................................

Wild Aspirin: Making Medicine from White Willow ....................................................

The First Aid Plant That Can Stop Bleeding in Seconds .............................................

Cattail Gel – Nature’s Anesthetic ..................................................................

PART VII: WILD SKILLS ..............................................................................

The Only 5 Knots You Need to Know in The Wild ......................................................

How to Find Toilet Paper in the Wild ...............................................................